Greisingel

Naughty temporary fix So, my 113K miles RX appears to be working fine thank god. My temporary insulated crocodile clip fix holding in a 120 amp rated wire plus a non conductive block between the split fuse seems to work. All electrics work except the steering wheel tilt at ignition. Will have to check that. No warnings yippee Brand new auxiliary battery behaving itself and maintaining 14.2 V charge. Consistent charging

Progress is one way of looking at it 😐 I forgot to mention that the Hybrid Battery warning came on in stage 2 (when all the other warnings disappeared).

OK, so, I rammed in the 120 amp copper spades like a crown over the blown main fuse metalwork. It was a very tight fit and led me to believe that contact was good. The bit I used to ram was from a new 120 amp fuse that had arrived by post. I made sure the blown part did not join (because the pressure of ramming brought the original blown fuse ends together). I assumed that you shouldn't have two 120 amp break point paths. It was ****** down with rain so haven't photographed. 1) I installed a new, tested full charge, 12V battery. No "READY" was given when I turned the key. P/S / ABS and Brake warnings appeared as before MAIN FUSE makeshift fix. Steering wheel wouldn't tilt / no NAV display / windows dead / Shifter locked in park BUT engine fired up as normal and ran smoothly. There were clicks and thrums coming from the front. 2) I did the "Accessory" turn with the key, pumped the brakes twice and turned engine on. THEN I got the "READY" signal & steering wheel shift. Warning lights went off/ Nav display came to life (HV battery showed 3/4s charged..looked normal). For a second I thought problem solved. It ran for 5 seconds then flipped back to 1) status. I had hoped that I would prove that an operational Main Fuse (admittedly, a makeshift job with risks). That's where I am at the moment. I checked a couple of the mini blades I had replaced (that blew after the battery short) could solve this. The fuses were fine. I don't know what this means. Is it possible the MAIN FUSE makeshift fix is fouled up? I checked it and the crown is tight on the old metalwork. Sure it isn't satisfactory beyond testing I guess I need to see some codes on techstream

I have ordered a 120 amp fuse. Getting one isn’t the problem. Fitting it, removing the old one are the real headaches. To test the system I will run a temporary fix. This will confirm that the ecu and modules are operational - that the blown 120 amp fuse did its job protecting the electronics. If it turns out I’ve cooked something I have only myself to blame.

After diying so much on my beloved RX400H- new rad, o2 sensors, height adjuster, brakes. It was running so well. Just needed to upgrade the ancillary battery. Then I zap the fuses like a moron by reverse polarity. It was the end of a tiring day and I had rotated battery and just messed up. 5 seconds of big sparks, headlights full on. Idiot. Replaced 5 minor fuses. Main fuse blown, which is a good thing. Getting dead p/s, abs, locked shifter, brake light, blank Nav screen etc. The car doesn’t run very well or for long. The main fuse is a pita to replace. I realise now why some of the PAL main fuses you can buy have open ended spears rather than holes you have to screw into. I was wondering if I could tear out the copper spades of the busted fuse so each spear would rip off each bolt. Then I could push in one of those open ended spear types. I guess a temporary fix rewiring the ends of the busted fuse is mad. So depressing. Lexus dealer is quoting £375. It is a crap job to do so I get the price. And of course there may be more problems with the DC inverter (replacement cost could spell scrapping the car) or the P/S fuse inside the HV battery.

I took the sensor out and soaked the receptor end in petrol then carb cleaned it. Cleared the DTC on Techstream and now running like a dream.

Don't know how serious P0158 is. The yellow engine management light is on – not flashing. I cannot identify the OEM part number for B2S2 OXYGEN SENSOR There is confusion at sites between right and left, upper and lower, rear and front, upstream and downstream It's an easy swap out, but my mind is addled by 100s of pics O2 sensors that look similar and are differently described. It is BANK 2 SENSOR 2 – see diagram. Anyone got the part number, please. Would be most grateful. Ta Andy