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About Mauler

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  1. With regards to the audio setup in the IS (and Lexus' in general I think), Pioneer make the head units & amps, Mark Levinson, I believe, provide the speakers. After years of owning after-market Alpine head units I was somewhat disappointed with the ML setup. The speakers are great and the stereo is decent for most things (but as Linas says it deffo handles some music better than others) but as for messing with EQ audio options it's pretty much bass/mid/treble & fade/balance. When I assumed that ML were some Yank brand that was highly regarded I expected more customisation from the stereo but once I worked out that they only do the speakers I cut them some slack.
  2. All IS-model head units seem to be made by Pioneer. The easiest way to check is to search on eBay; they all pretty much have Pioneer stickers on the top casing.
  3. Sorry, only just seen this! If you could PM me a link that would be fantastic, thank you! IT Tech here, too 🙂
  4. Aye, the cheapo bluetooth ODB2 readers can diag most things but they *only* interface with the main ECU, which is where you can miss issues with subsystems like the ABS, which has it's own ECU module. I had a Mk2 Focus and got a Med/High bus cable and FORScan on my laptop to talk to the car, which allowed me to reprogram a Mk2.5 dash pod (and a spare key) to match my car, enable remote closing/opening of all windows, stuff like that. Specialist apps and cable may cost more than the cheap stuff but they're certainly worth it if you need to have a detailed look at the car's systems and dare to do more in-depth adjustments. Annoyingly my laptop is running Windows 10 and doesn't talk to my Chinese Techstream cable...yet. I think it's just a matter of Windows drivers...
  5. Threaten the gits with the insurance ombudsman - you'd be surprised how this can motivate them to be less rubbish. Then once it's sorted, bin them ASAP.
  6. Thanks n2! 😀 I'm sure I've taken interior panels off to get to gubbins on every car I've owned but none were as nice as the Lexus so I don't want to damage anything by misadventure...
  7. Awesome, thanks chaps! Are there any secrets to things to know when removing door trim? The screws are obvious and it's the usual "Leaver clips away but be careful"?
  8. People say this about the inside of fuel tanks, but when my Dad and I removed my old '05 plate TDCi Focus to replace it's fuel sender unit the inside of the tank, which AFAIK was the original and I doubt it had been cleaned in it's then-13/14ish years, was as clean as a whistle.
  9. Could be worse - my mate rides a fairly modern Honda Hornet, it doesn't even have a fuel gauge; just a "FIND SOME FUEL NOW" light 😁 To make sure it's as stressful as possible, the rider has to manually reach down and fumble for a Normal/Reserve tank switch on the side of the bike somewhere and switch it over to a lower input in the tank to make sure they can get to a petrol station! Haha!
  10. Thank you 😃 One thing that I forgot to add in my initial post (and I can't seem to edit it now?) is that the puddle light in that wing mirror also doesn't work. I didn't even know I had puddle lights until I'd owned the car for two weeks and walked up to the passenger side in the dark! Haha! So, I suspect that all of these electrical contraptions share a power feed (or connector) and that's disconnected/broken....OR...someone's annihilated the mirror at some point and replaced it with a knackered/empty one...?
  11. The effort is much appreciated man, but do you think he still has one? 😁 Daft place to put it, but I'm sure it has something to do with getting a feed from the rear heated screen to kick the mirrors on. That does both mirrors though, doesn't it?
  12. Hello chaps (and chapesses), I got my IS250 a few weeks ago (thanks to all who commented in that thread!) and it's fine except for the driver's side mirror. The mirror itself is easily movable by hand and doesn't move on it's own when the car vibrates or goes over bumps, etc but it doesn't move via the buttons in the door, neither does it seem to heat up when the rear screen & mirrors de-mister button is pressed. There's no motor noise coming from it that I can hear so it's like the mirror's motor and heater isn't getting power. The passenger mirror works fine for everything. What the wing mirror DOES do is fold-in via the fold-in/retract button and this works so well that if my window is down it folds all the way into the car to say hello, which is nice. 😁 If I have my window up the mirror housing taps the glass and stops. It folds back out at the touch of the button, but the way it moves back out sort of shows that it's retracted too far, but it reaches the correct position and stops like it should anyway. Does the mirror retract function have it's own feed? Do the mirror heater and motor share a circuit? I've very briefly seen a diagram showing a connector to the door gubbins, so do all three share the same loom connector and is it inside the door or behind the footwell panel? Is the over-retracting related to the lack of power to the mirror functions? Has anyone experienced this before and what was the fix? Thanks in advance!
  13. A V6 MR2 - was that the Camry V6 3.0 conversion? When I was on the MR2OC many moons ago I think Redwood used to do those?
  14. I've generally used Mintex & EBC (Green Stuff, although my Celica GT4 has Reds) which have given good stopping power. I can't comment how they stack up against the OE pads though, I've not had the car long enough to need to change them yet.
  15. I've looked into OBD codes a bit from when I had my Focus and worked on it myself. P0 codes are powertrain related (on my Focus I always had one up because I didn't bother replacing the knackered glow plugs but it wasn't serious enough to bring on the CEL (VSC) light). P0301-0312 are thrown up when the ECU detects a misfire (along with a general P0300), the last two digits specify which cylinder the fault was detected on. So in this case it's cylinders 1 & 3. P0102 is "Mass Air Flow/MAF Circuit Low Input", generally the MAF sensor isn't giving a signal as strong as the ECU wants so it may be dirty or faulty, or the sensor is fine but there might be a vacuum leak somewhere after the sensor, so the engine is sucking in air there and thus less air is flowing through the filter to the air flow meter. P0113 is "Intake Air Temperature/IAT Sensor 1 Circuit High Input". I had to look this one up myself; the IAT is basically a thermistor, it's resistance drops as the ambient temperature does. If it was really cold it might trigger a P0113 code as very low temps will produce a high voltage but I don't know the ranges that an IAT works at so it might be normal or it might not? Unfortunately I've only had my IS250 for two weeks so I've got no idea if the above results crop up sometimes on cars over a certain age/mileage or not. My fairly unprofessional advice would be to clear the codes stored in the ECU and test again in a day or two to see if any have reappeared.