cleverdick

OK, dumb question - what's a DHP model?

:duh:

Mmmm....

Could be a number of things, and the symptom quite probably will disappear after a long run to France. Cars don't like to have a 'winter rest', they need to be exercised otherwise bad things can happen!

It could be that the throttle body needs cleaning inside (hopefully you still have time to do it) or even as simple a thing as the fuel having deteriorated in the tank. You could perhaps add some Wynn's Dry Fuel just in case there are globules of water being sucked up. What were the plugs that were put in, BTW? Denso iridium I hope!

Can't think of anything else right now, except that if the Battery has been disconnected or lost its charge then the ECU will need to re-learn your driving style for optimum performance (so I believe).

Good luck...

(C'mon everyone, let's see if we can help this guy out!)

When you've done all the above, check that the rubber prop shaft doughnuts aren't split.

Well that's a relief - I was wondering about that too. Of course, by having to pay £400, owners of affected vehicles will vow to get their money's worth and actually drive all the way to work, rather than leaving them in the station car parks. That makes sense! Incorporate 'road fund' cost in fuel price? Never! Far too logical! (Don't get me started on this.)

:tsktsk:

Have not seen any posts concerning this current problem - are LSs unaffected, or have we all been fortunate enough to avoid it?

I can't report, as my car is in at the moment for new fuel lines (they were VERY rusty), but on 22 Feb I did fill up with Tesco Super Unleaded as I was expecting to do an airport run (which didn't materialise). I have not driven the car much since then, so who knows what will happen?

Interestingly, whilst with previous cars I would have avoided Tesco fuel at all costs (due to some bad experiences), I do find that their Super Unleaded seems to suit my LS rather well.

Comments welcome!

Sounds like your car has 'Ford Granada-itis' - mine used to do exactly the same thing towards the end of the warm-up phase, as if the choke was being released too soon. And always on the approach to the same roundabout! But at least in that case you could keep the revs up whilst using the handbrake to regulate the car's speed. Just one of several faults that I could never cure, which was why it had to go.

But I digress...

When you say you cleaned the throttle body, did you actually take it right off and clean it from the inside, fitting a new paper gasket on reassembly?

What about the mass airflow sensor?

Do let us know as and when you get to the bottom of this.

Good luck...

1996 LS400 Mk3: alarm kept going off for no (apparent) reason. But just to complicate things, sometimes it behaved normally. Decided to take car to Main Agent for first time. Reason for this apparent recklessness? - I reckoned anywhere else might not have enough 'knowledge' and would just keep replacing things until it was cured.

Well, not only did Lexus Norwich fix the alarm, but they also presented me with a Visual Safety Report, which was virtually an MOT report, and they cleaned the car inside and out to boot.

I was charged for 0.75hrs labour; total cost, inc VAT = £66.09

I am well impressed and would paste several Smilies if I knew how!

What was the cause of the problem?

mate do you know how much im looking at paying for it?

cheers mat

I hope you're sitting down...

About 18 months ago 10 litres cost me £90.

Obviously this seems like a lot of money, but when you stop and think how important the trans fluid is and what it has to do, then it kind of puts it into perspective.

If it's too much money, I'd say leave it for now and wait until you can afford it, rather than put cheap stuff in and have to do it again soon or risk trashing the box.

Good luck...

Im replacing my transmission fluid can anyone recommend where i can get the correct fluid from - as all i keep getting is go to lexus!!!!

not very helpful

much appreciated!!!!

mat

You could try your Toyota dealer, insist on genuine Toyota T-IV fluid ONLY and don't take no for an answer when they say they've never heard of it.

You need 10 litres.

Hi,

Do make sure you look underneath the car before buying. It's true that these cars are not known for rust, partly because they were likely to have been pampered and garaged early on (given their high initial cost and the type of homes they went to). However, there's always an exception (and my car seems to be the one). A previous owner lived by the sea, and that, combined with a certain amount of negligence, took its toll. The only rust my car has on its paintwork is a small patch on the rear wheel arch, but the suspension/chassis components generally are visibly corroded. A liberal dose of Waxoyl has now hopefully kept that under control. After having bought the car, I found to my horror that the main brake pipe was very rusty, despite it having been given an MoT a few weeks earlier! I appealed, a VOSA inspector examined it and declared that because (and only because) of this pipe that the MoT should not have been issued. I didn't get any money back to offset the cost of repair :-( but no doubt the tester will have been hauled over the coals! You live and learn......

Hi,

Don't discount the older models e.g. Series 1. You may have to be prepared for an initial outlay to catch up on servicing not done, but that's true for any car.

Mine is a UCF10 (Series 1), 1990. It drives better than any car I've owned, and everything works! It's the only vehicle I've ever had that doesn't rattle, creak or vibrate!

Points to watch for are:

1. Leaking PAS pump

2. Blowing EGR pipe

3. Knackered suspension bushes

4. Stripped splines on the seat recliner linkage bar

It's probably wise to avoid one that's had it's audio system replaced or otherwise tampered with; the factory Pioneer or Nakamichi system is truly excellent (although FM radio sounds a little muffled due to US-standard de-emphasis in the receiver - possibly not the case on later models). I'd run away from any car that had dodgy superfluous wiring - or the wrong wheels - it would only serve to prove that the previous owner did not appreciate or respect the car for what it was. Originality speaks volumes. Tyres are a good clue, too, as to the diligence with which servicing has been carried out. If it's got bad (or odd) tyres it's a safe bet that the oil hasn't been changed in a while, and if it has, probably with something cheap!

You may be lucky and find an example without any of these issues! People slag of the Series 1 brakes, but IMHO they're just fine! That's not to say the later ones don't have more powerful brakes, but that alone is no reason to avoid a Series 1.

There are some excellent illustrated maintenance tutorials on www.lexls.com

Good luck in your quest. Take your time and don't necessarily buy the first one you see (like I did) just because it's cheap.

Blimey!

The paint job on my series 1 LS is the worst I've had on any car! It really is terrible! It's supposed to be Mica Red metallic, but most panels except doors and wings would be better described as 'Cloudy Grey'. The bonnet has an extreme case of psoriasis where the lacquer is quite literally flaking off! Now, the previous owner was very negligent and also lived by the sea which didn't help. (There's evidence of a prang, too.) In some ways I wish I'd held out for a better example, but the test drive just blew me away. The only other car I'd driven which came close in the smoothness stakes was a Ford Crown Vic in the US. I can't afford a full respray so I'm stuck with it, but that's the only problem. And I'd sooner pour money into the mechanics anyhow.

Funnily enough, I saw a Merc the other week with an identical problem - same colour, too. Must be contagious...

I had the same thing on my Mk1. The weak point seems to be where the black top is welded to the clear sides. Tried all sorts of things, including PTFE tape round the level sensor thread. The only thing that fixed it was a new tank and radiator cap from Lexus. About £100 all in (fitted by me). An easy job, but don't waste time on s/h spares. Cut your losses and get a new tank.

Hi

Do Spit and Polish just refurb alloys or can they straighten them out as 1 of my alloys has gone a tiny bit egg shaped as the bloke told me when he tried to balance them and at what cost would i be looking at

if not does anyone know where i can get this done

Andy

The guys at the place I went were able to repair some kerb damage (not done by me!). But if a rim is "egg-shaped" i.e. as if it has been dropped, then I think you're looking at a new wheel. Even if it were possible to straighten it out you would end up with stress fractures in the metal, with obvious safety implications. In any case, the chances of them getting it to run true are pretty slim.

Good luck though...

I have a feeling you've put the wrong grade oil in your diff

75/90's is normally for manual gearboxes. Diff oils are often 85/90's or LSD oil if its a limited slip diff

Thanks Chris,

It is (supposedly) for diffs and says all the right stuff : i.e. API GL-5 etc. It also has a friction modifier for LSDs (which the LS400's isn't) but claims that it's good for non-LSDs too.

I just can't believe that the service departments of main dealers dispense generic fluids - even Sewell Ft. Worth use Castrol! So much for diligently following the service schedule and using OEM parts! All I wanted was whatever was put in at the factory. Maybe that's too much to ask!

I do have part number for Toyota 85/90 (which I believe is a mineral oil) but I don't know if this meets EP requirements. Either way, Lexus Southend claim that I'd have to pay for a whole crate from Japan. They did offer me some Shell Spirax semi-synthetic 80W/90 which I declined.

So, in the meantime I've bought some cheap Carlube EP90 mineral, which again claims to meet API GL-5. At least it's the grade recommended by the book. Hoping to put it in sometime over the next few days. Can't be any worse!

Hi all,

The other day I replaced my diff oil with Redline 75W90. Right now I'm not convinced this was a good move as I believe I can now detect an increase in noise from the rear of the car.

I was not expecting this, but I have read elsewhere of people switching to synthetics and experiencing similar trouble.

I should have lived by my theory that it's always best to use OEM, regardless of what's claimed.

So, I need the part number of the genuine Toyota gear oil that was used in these diffs as OE. (I won't sleep until I've put this right!)

Anyone able to help?

Thanks,

Rich

I had mine done this year at Rochford Tyres, Rochford, Essex. Good job, about £50/wheel all in. Original series 1 finish.

Was driving home the other day when all of a sudden I notice the brake warning light come on, when I parked I noticed there was fluid dripping from the rear, where it is leaking there is no chance it could be from the flexible line and indeed looks like it might be coming from the main line.

How much of an arse is this to do and how much would a garage likely charge me?

Ty

I had the same thing on my '90 LS - which I found just after I'd bought it with 11 months MoT! Luckily the pipe hadn't ruptured, but it was so rusty it could have happened any time. It cost me £300 to get fixed by a local independent (they changed the whole line). Even though I didn't get any money back from the cowboys that gave it the MoT, I did appeal against it having 'passed' and luckily the regional inspector agreed. My guess is that they got a serious arse-whupping.

Obviously it's important to change the fluid regularly (DoT 4), as it can only absorb so much water. Keep the reservoir cap sealed with a smear of silicone grease to stop moisture getting in.

Has anyone on here experienced a clogged sender unit filter? I have (but not on a Lexus I hasten to add) and it was scary - on the motorway of all places! In this instance, the filter literally caved in and blocked the pipe, causing my car to stall during an overtaking manouvre.

So what has this to do with LS400s? Well, in addition to the external filter which we all know about, there's one inside the tank too - which obviously does NOT get changed as a matter of course. So eventually, this filter will clog, with potentially disastrous results. Why do manufacturers do this? What's the point of a replaceable external filter if there's one in the tank that will inevitably clog first, but that you can't get to?

More to the point, has anyone had theirs changed, and how easy was it to do?

(In some ways, I wish I hadn't bought the Lexus manual, because I'd still be in ignorant bliss thinking that the external filter was the only one.) My LS400 has done about 115k miles, and the one on my Granada clogged at around 100k. Difference is, Toyota at least mention this filter in the dealer's manual, whereas Ford do not, causing many cars to be scrapped because nobody can find the fault.

Comments?

Why not look on carsurvey.org and see what the general concensus is? One thing's for sure - it won't touch an LS400 in terms of reliability.

yeah, its the same as the 08886-81015 1 litre bottle i got today, they have no info on the bottle, its whats on the invoice that worries me.

Hi P11GT,

Luckily I kept one of the containers for future reference and in case the small amount left was ever required for a top-up. Not so far, (touch wood).

It's supplied in 5l silver/grey plastic cans, with a red label. (You'll need 2 of them.) It's clearly marked as 'Toyota Genuine Motor Oil', and 'Automatic transmission fluid type T-IV'. The part number, on the rear label, is: 08886-82025.

There's a phone number (in Belgium): +32 (0) 2 745 24 86.

It does make me cross when the UK dealers play the dumb-*****. Good luck in your quest!

I have a pair of series 1 rims, less tyres, going free to whoever is willing to collect them from Rochford, Essex. They're in a sorry state cosmetically, but perfectly useable to keep the car on the road if you're having yours refurbished one side at a time. Or you may choose to have these refurbished instead. Presumably I can't get told off for advertising on the forum as I don't want anything for them, just to see them get used to keep another LS on the road. :) Better than putting them in a skip! Moving house soon so they need to go. One can only hoard so much junk. Contact me off-list if interested.

At a guess, I would say EGR pipe too. Had a similar problem on my '90 LS recently. To have it fixed is not as bad as they say - mine cost £600 (including new OEM exhaust front section) at an independent Lexus garage. That said, £600 is bad enough, so let's hope your problem is simpler than that.

Take care...

You may wish to read this post from a similar thread on the US forum:

mann777 Feb 21 2006, 01:42 AM Post #15

New Club Member

Group: Members

Posts: 13

Joined: 20-November 05

Member No.: 21,708

Car Model:LS400- 1994

Location:HOUSTON

I was a toyota chemical engineer working in the fluids engineering in Japan quite some years back ( 1994-1997 ) and I should say this all you guys having different opinions to the transmission fluid. Ok here is how it goes, When lexus was launched the transmission fluid to be used was given a great importance, looking at the engine and gears running at various speeds. The oil made for the toyota engines was made and specially formulated and selected from a highly refined base stocks and compounds and additives of special nature were added after years of research to enhance oxidation and thermal stabilty, friction control, load carrying capability, corrosion and wear protection and low foam tendency. The viscosities were measured under various tempratures until the flash point . Now coming to the lexus cars finally toyota derived a special formulation to protect its engines and work to its optimum and thus they got the results with being the quitest and smoothest engine ever built using these fluids. We as manufaturers not from the marketing point of view but from the engineering point ensure these are to be used across our network worldwide. Now you as consumers expect the same results. There are few who do not have the patience to use the OEM stuff and go to the nearest gas station and service with various other oils and do not know the repurcussion on long term use how they can affect the funtions of the engines. I forgot to add also note during the test level the decibel level is calculated on the engine running and using various composition of the fluids. Toyota engineering have then come to the conclusion . Now as the years go by the fluids are upgraded, that does not mean they cannot be used on older cars, they are most compatible. The upgrades are done to improve sludge resistance, oxidation stability,increased energy densities and shifting performance. ANd lastly i should say this Many service fluids curentlly in the market simply do not provide the level of performance that is now required. I hope you all continue to use Type iv OEM and it does make a hell of lot diiference.

Hello Fellow Lexuns

I have been following the topic on transmission fluid change with some mixed feelings,I was concerned by the constant referal to the type t-1V and its implications of non application . I had my lexus looked after in the Manchester area by the same guy at a lexus dealer ship for eight years,Ihave lived in Scotland now for 4 years and have done the services myself.I contacted the Lexus dealer in Glasgow who;s workshop said they put in dexron type 111.He insisted that the lexus reccomendation stated that dexron was an acceptable alternative to toyota products.I then contacted the Mechanic who looked after my car as if it were his own and he confirmed this.He went on to say that the only difference you will notice, if at all ,is the smoother gear changethat t-1V achieves. As my Ls400 as the smoothest gear change on fluid that as done 150000 miles you could wish for I think there may be some kiddology going on from the pricing of these products.After all Toyota don't make the transmission fluid ,they commision an oil company to do that and they're hardly likely to promote something with thier name on that as a General motors trademark. Anyway I did the change using 12 litres of dexron and simply shoved a 4mm nylon tube down the dipstick and with a qwik -drain pump outfit, pumped a litre and a half out then pumped the same amount of new in. Ran round the block, repeated the process, until the colour of the fluid was as near to the new sample I started with.Total cost £28 and I did it standing up.

And no, I did'nt take off the pan or change filters in the box because to my knowledge there have been no builders or gardeners in there lousin the place up and it probably wants to be left in peace anyway.Thats not to say that it might blow up next week ,but I think the sealed system speaks for itself .By the way I changed the fluid in my power steering pump the same way, without of course the trip round the block. :)

The filter and magnets are there for a reason, i.e. to trap particles of metal and friction material which inevitably accumulate through normal wear and tear. After 150k miles you can be sure that there'll be some! I understand your sentiments about wishing not to disturb things, and if you don't have access to the facilities then that's probably wise. But ultimately, the transmission is not a component that can be neglected. With hindsight I wish I'd cleaned out my solenoids too when the pan was off, but where does one stop, short of a full rebuild?

The Lexus mechanic who claimed that Dexron is OK should be struck off. It's most definitely NOT OK, apart from in the PAS pump where it is specified. TII was originally specified for the trans and has now been superseded by TIV-and improved and updated variant. The frictional properties of Dexron are quite different. Having used the 'dilution' method, there will still be plenty of TII left in your gearbox. Who knows how it will mix with Dexron and what the long-term effects will be? I hate to sound pessimistic, but you could be looking at complete transmission failure before long if you don't get that flushed out and replaced with the proper stuff ASAP.

There are no shortcuts when it comes to working on these cars. Use genuine parts, do the job thoroughly and it will most surely pay off.