cleverdick

Richard, has the tank split.

Hi Andy,

Yes, it has cracked, at the top corner by the float sensor.

I don't see how it can be reapired, really....

The tank you need is the expansion tank, part number is: 16470-50012. Retail price is: £94.59+vat.

Plus the Celsior tank is a different part number: 16470-50030 and retail is £75.54+vat but i doubt it will fit

Thanks, will bear in mind. Out of interest, do you know what the difference is between the LS and Celsior tanks?

Cheers....

A Toyota dealer does not have access to the lexus order or parts recognition system so they would not be able to help you . They could get you a part number for Celsior tank but it might not fit your car.

With regards to what youve been quoted £77+Vat is nearly 20% off retail price as long as it is the expansion tank you need and not the header tank that sits on top of the Rad

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Hi Gecco,

Would that be a picture of you, by any chance? :D

The tank I'm referring to is the one between the relay/fuse box and the front suspension mount.

Cheers,

R

Hi guys,

I've just been quoted (by Lexus) £77 +VAT for a coolant header tank for my 1990 LS.  I then tried Toyota, and once again went through the 'banging my head on the table' thing when I had to explain that Toyota and Lexus are one and the same, and that that LS400s are also badged as Toyota Celsiors etc. etc.

Upshot: without a part number, Toyota can't (or won't) help, and so at the moment I'm looking at best part of £100 just for a plastic tank.

Any info would therefore be most gratefully received.

Thanks in advance....

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Hi guys,

I've just been quoted (by Lexus) £77 +VAT for a coolant header tank for my 1990 LS. I then tried Toyota, and once again went through the 'banging my head on the table' thing when I had to explain that Toyota and Lexus are one and the same, and that that LS400s are also badged as Toyota Celsiors etc. etc.

Upshot: without a part number, Toyota can't (or won't) help, and so at the moment I'm looking at best part of £100 just for a plastic tank.

Any info would therefore be most gratefully received.

Thanks in advance....

Hi everyone.

Its time for the big service (cam belt, all lfuids etc).  I 'spose this is going to hurt a bit.

Anyone know a good independant agent in north Essex please?

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You could try Westfield Motors in Rayleigh, although I guess it all depends if you are prepared to travel that far.

Good luck...

can someone tell me how easy it is to replace the spark plugs in my LS400 1993 model . is there anything that needs to be removed etc to gain access . also how long would it take to do .

thanks .. :)

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It's not difficult, but it is time consuming due to all the covers etc. that must be removed. You may wish to replace the HT leads whilst you're at it (taking care not to trap the coil R/H pack-distributor lead on reassembly). Use only Denso or NGK iridium plugs. Allow a full day, because this is not something that can be rushed. The lexls.com tutorial tells you all you need to know. Good luck.

Cortina Mk3 2000E - my first car so obviously the best in the world as far as I was concerned! ;) In Purple Velvet Metallic no less! Got written off in a crash :(

Cortina Mk4 2.0 Ghia - Friday afternoon job, lots of problems.

Cortina Mk3 2000E - a better example than the first, in Miami Blue. very tough mechanically, but I had to let it go due to a tinworm infestation.

Granada Mk2 2.8 GL - fine after trans rebuild and the secret internal fuel tank filter removed (kept clogging and causing the car to stall). No A/C though.

Granada Mk2 2.8 Ghia X - same probs as before, plus a few others! A/C always unreliable, persistent vibration from driveline despite most of the components being replaced and the prop aligned with a special laser jig that I made.

Besides, I really wanted a V8, especially after driving a '95 Ford Crown Vic.

So I therefore bought (on impulse) my current LS400 (UCF10) which is the first car I've ever owned that doesn't (1) vibrate, and (2) leak water into the footwells. A/C is bust at the moment though... :(

fault could also be faulty knock sensors. Also what plugs are you using, the recommended ones?

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Plugs are new, Denso iridium, which I fitted personally about 3 or 4 months ago.

Where are the knock sensors, and what do they look like?

In the meantime I've ordered some Forte Gas Treatment, so will let you know if this makes a difference.

R

The other day, for the first time in this car, I had three [adult] passengers, and found that when driving on a 'wavy' road, the car would bounce uncontrollably, even hitting the bump stops. The rear of the car was certainly sitting much lower than normal.

I see there's another post on this - so at least I'm not alone! Having had new (OEM) rear shocks within the last 6 months, I can only assume that the springs are very weak - they certainly appear rusty. BTW, I don't have the air suspension, just the bog-standard setup! I once read that dampers do not affect ride height, thus confirming my suspicion of the springs.

Has anyone on here had new springs, and what kind of difference did it make?

Thanks,

R

1990 LS400

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies so far - I appreciate it.

I might give the Forte Gas Treatment a try - probably the easiest option! But is this stuff any better than good ol' Redex? I did consider removing the plugs and pouring Redex into the holes in true 'old-school' style, but was concerned about trashing the O2 sensors or cats etc. But all the Forte additives look like they might be beneficial to my car! Anyhow, thanks again for all your comments - keep 'em coming!

Regards,

R.

My 1990 LS400 has a tendency to 'pink' on acceleration - this only seems to be a problem during a hot spell. At first I put it down to bad fuel, but over two tankfulls from different petrol stations the problem remains. By the way, I have only ever used premium unleaded. My local Lexus mechanic claims that these cars aren't noted for this. However, whilst waiting to cross the road today (again, a very hot day), an LS400 of the same year as mine drove by - pinking raucously!

So, should I be worried?

Advertising on ebay-don't bother with this guy-service is super slow, he sends half the parts and does not answer emails about the rest!

Someone else said the same thing a few weeks ago on this forum too.

You have been warned...

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Try Swift Lexus Spares - 01903 856568. Ask for John. I've always found them very helpful, prices are fair, and on the odd occasion that I've had a problem with something from there, they've sent a replacement straight away with no hassle. Highly recommended.

I do sympathise with you - my previous car was a Mk2 Granada, and on ordering parts from one of the club 'shops' I was dismayed that half the items were never sent and those that were were only fit for the bin - worse than the parts they were intended to replace! And they still owe me money! Obviously from the same school as the guy you mention here.

I took the blower motor out today (because it had started to make a terrible racket). Easier said than done! To get to the motor assembly you have to take off the lower fan housing cover. After, of course, unplugging about 10 connectors which are tightly loomed in. Anyway, when I pulled the lower fan cover forward, it came away fairly easily, but to my dismay there was a linkage rod attached to a flap valve on it which I now seem to have pulled right out. What's on the other end of this linkage, and where? I did manage to get the cover back on OK, but the linkage is now sitting at an awkward angle; it disappears into the inner wing somewhere and is as far into the corner as you could get! I think it's something to do with the recirc/thru-flow arrangement, but can anyone give me any specific info on how to get to the other end of the rod or what to do?

Thanks greatly....

Intersting.... So was this a stock colour?

I reckon an LS400 would look good with a roof package such as this. Especially on an example like mine where the paint's gone a bit flat. (Playing Devil's advocate here!)

http://www.egclassic.com/roofs/mercury/mercuryroof9.php

:winky:

Hi, and thanks for reply...

Yes, it would be when braking, or more accurately I should say - rapid deceleration. However the brakes operate smoothly and are not siezed.

The front wheel bearings are also free from play - I checked them this morning.

But there is more engine noise than there used to be, and at idle you can detect some slight vibration from inside the car. Therefore I really am starting to think that it might be the engine mounts. Of course, it's impossible to tell by looking whether they're OK, although the rear transmission mount at least is not showing any visual sign of deterioration. The car still drives smoothly in general; it's just that when slowing to a stop the harshness is noticeable.

So what d'ya reckon?

Hi guys,

Sorry I haven't posted this in the specific category, but that't because I'm not sure what it is!

Over the last few days, I've noticed that when slowing to a stop, there's a groan/rumble which seems to be from the front end although I couldn't be sure. It's not noticeable in normal driving. At first I thought it was a gearbox fault, although the symptom is still evident when coasting to a stop in neutral. There is some creaking from the steering when manouvring on full lock; I suspect some of the bushes might have had it. But would that cause the groaning sound on slowdown? My thoughts are that it might be a wheel bearing, or worse, a propshaft bearing. Engine/trans mounts, maybe? Has anyone else had this specific problem? If so what was the fix and what did it cost?

Had a new windshield fitted by Autoglass a few weeks ago. No dramas or problems, although I volunteered to take it there rather than them attempt the job on my driveway on a rainy day. I had about a 2-hour wait; I believe that this was partly due to the time taken for the adhesive to cure. As far as I know there are no leaks - so far anyway!

Cost me the £50 excess.

Good luck!

All cars have them they are a drain plug ,but it should not be leaking water .if it is then you have problems and probaly a footwell full of water .press the carpet on the side of the plug and see if it is wet .my bet is that it is the air con that is dripping like fluff states .

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Nothing to do with the a/c. Seems to be a cavity drain - just forward of the front footwell. Carpets are dry.

Sorry - I seem to have posted this in the wrong section.

R

I noticed today that, just behind the front roadwheel on the driver's side, there's a small rubber bung in the floorpan which in my case was slowly dripping water onto the driveway!

Is this some sort of cavity drain hole? It seems to be situated just forward of the footwell.

Odd thing is, it seems to be of solid rubber (as opposed to a hole blocked with mud) and the water was seeping found the edge of it.

Should I be worried?

R

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum (bought an LS400 late last year). I have a Mk4 1999 LS400 and I also changed my transmission fluid this nice and sunny weekend. I did a full flush after reading the lexls tutorial. Cleverdick is right that the lexls tutorial seems slightly confusing when it refers to the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet (one end on the rad is an inlet and the other one is an outlet). I didn't drop the pan because my car has only covered 52,000 miles so maybe a job for a later service. But the tutorial was very helpful and i replaced the fluid with 9 litres of Toyota T IV fluid.

Cleverdick - I also paid about £80 for my fluid, but ive heard that if you buy it from a Toyota dealer is it supposed to be a bit cheaper so maybe ill go to a toyota dealer next time and ask for Toyota type IV fluid.

Just one question - I put in exactly the same amount which i took out (I took out 1.5 litres and replaced 1.5 litres at a time) so the level should not have changed very much, but how do i properly check the level ? The dipstick has got a cold and a hot mark. Am i supposed to check it with the engine idling ? I just checked my trans fluid (on my level driveway) with the car stone cold since it hadnt been driven all day and it is slightly higher than the top of the Hot mark on the dipstick - is this how it is supposed to be ? I did a test drive yesterday and all seemed fine.

Any idea.

Many thanks,

Goldfinger

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Hi Goldfinger,

I did buy the fluid from a Toyota garage (as opposed to Lexus) so was slightly shocked at the price. However, the guy assured me that the cost would have been the same.

Concerning the fluid level, I agree it's not easy to get it spot on, nor read the dipstick when the fluid is new and clear. If yours is above the hot mark when cold (with the engine idling) then you've overfilled it. However, you may be surprised at how little it takes to over or underfill the transmission - I was!

I'd suggest that using a long piece of clear tubing and a pump of some sort, you remove say 500ml from the dipstick tube. Then go for a drive for 15 minutes or so and check it again.

Keep us posted...

Rich

5l can part number is 08886-82025 and is stupidly expensive in this country. Available from any Toyota or Lexus dealer.

As transmission fluid is never drained as part of a service schedule many dealers won't know about it. They will probably know it better as power steering fluid as it is used for that too.

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Indeed.

Although ironically, as you know, bog-standard Dexron is specified for the PAS system on the LS400.

I'd be mighty p****d off if I'd booked my car in for a trans fluid change and found that they'd used Dexron. Especially if they'd charged me for T-IV. But it seems that this is what's likely to happen!

The moral of the story is: If you want something done properly.....

Hi all,

Well, the job I've been dreading is now done - and it wasn't too bad.

But I reckon you'd struggle without a hoist or pit. The hardest part was getting the pan off - it was pretty much glued on by the original rubber sealant, but gave eventually. I was able to remove the sealant from the trans body by careful use of a razor blade, and from the pan with a wire brush without damaging the powder coating. A new cork gasket and filter set were obtained from Jaggraveyard in the US (thanks Andy) - I'm glad I did get the filter because I don't see how you could clean the gauze thoroughly - most of it is obscured. Luckily, the pan and magnets were fairly clean, although there was a very fine coating of black dust in it. Cleaned up fine, though. I used a small bead of Red Hermetite round the outer edge of the gasket on both sides, so that it couldn't ooze into the pan. I'm not saying this is an approved method, but I figured that it would be better than the gasket alone. Take care when tourquing up the filter and pan bolts - the lexls tutorial states the settings. Replacing the pan was a bit tricky in terms of locating it over the upper end of the dipstick tube, but it went eventually. Just be careful not to let any debris fall into the pan whilst you're manouvreing it into position. I then refilled with about 2l of T-IV, then disconnected the cooler pipe from the rad and plugged the free end with a bolt (just in case). The lexls tutorial is slightly misleading here, because it describes the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet. That's wrong, it's an outlet! The drain hose I used was a bit too wide, even when clamped on, so some fluid squirted back up into the engine bay. But I got there eventually, about 1l at a time. I did have to stop about 100 yards down the road and put some more fluid in, but once the correct level was obtained all was OK!

If you're thinking of doing this job, I'd strongly suggest that you: 1. Allow plenty of time - it took me about 5 hours! 2. Don't attempt on the driveway. 3. Use only T-IV ATF, even if the Toyota main dealer claims that Dexron is OK and it's what they use. 10l did cost me £90 though - ouch!

Good luck...

I've just had a rather fruitless conversation with the parts guy at my local Toyota main dealer who wasn't familiar with ATF type IV, let alone whether they could supply it.  Apparently they've never been asked for it before.  (Took him a while to acknowledge that Lexus and Toyota are one and the same, too).

So where does one buy this stuff?  My local independent uses an equivalent (supplied in large drums) which I assume is the Mobil 3309, but all I want is 8 litres or so of genuine Toyota T-IV ATF.  Why is this so difficult?

Any advice welcome!

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An update:

Have found the part number for a 4 litre can - 08886-81015. Rang the Toyota dealer again (who didn't recognize the US part number) and they've quoted £38.59, presumably plus VAT.

Is that a reasonable price?