legendswraith

im in............... still :P

Still waiting for the bodyshop so i am doubtful now. Bloody bonnet

They've got the AACI event on the 21-22 September cancelled now - we could nick that

We'll probably end up going on the 30-31 August and piggyback on that :o

Really does sound like Fuggles is having a mare though, guess this is half the problem - the other place cancelled that late everywhere else is already booked!

Brunters for Jae :D

Would think MI would be up for some legal action for cancelling that late unless it was all done on a handshake

It may even be possible to ask RAF Cosford if it can be staged there the airfield is seperate from the camp and it stages its own airshow, the place is mahoosive

Ok key update, got 2 of these flip keu fobs off ebay, when they came i was disapointed with the quality (flimsy) and finish.

Today i popped along to a local keysmith, we talked about cutting the blank blade donw in lenght as it was about 6mm longer than the standard key, we desided to cut it back about 4mm so as not to have too much key sticking out the ing barrel.

After a few times in the cutting mechine got it to lock and unlock the car from the drivers door b ut still felt gritty when inserted, so he ran it under a wire whel to take the "edge" off it.

So armed with my newlycut key and happy with paying £2 for all the work he did i set off home to swap the guts with a spare key i had at home.

Swapped the guts over and even fitte a new battery i headed to my car popped the doors with the fob and pushed the key into the ign barrel and we have contact, it worked....................but then i tried to remove the key fro the barrel!! it was firmly stuck in there!! what the hell do i do now?

The problem was i couldnt push the key down into the barrel far enough to release the key as we've cut it too short...................

Anyway after a few choise words and a lot of bottom movments i got enough push to get the fooker out!!

It is now sat in the glove box when it will stay, dont think i'll use that again!

So if you have bought any of these keys please don't do the same as i did and cut it shorter as you have the same probs as i had.....

On a foot note i did buy 2 so im gonna try it again with out cutting it his time!!!

Lexus keys come in 2 lengths 50 and 55mm if i remember rightly so tbh its really not worth trimming them down for 5mm.

I have provided stav with some keys he's looking at atm as a tester and hopefully he'll let me know if its fallen to pieces etc after a bit of use lol

What you have to realise with the flip keys though is if you want an oem quality one you are going to have to pay for it and more than likely at a main dealer which is going to cost alot.

TBH you should really get charged no more than about £10 for having a key cut you provide, £20ish for one supplied and cut and i have no idea about flips as they would not be stocked and would be special order, but i would think about £25-£30 supplied and cut for a flip or at least thats what i would charge.

These little pieces of S :tsktsk: T need a good beating then shooting in the Bo :tsktsk: ocks, really pi :tsktsk: es me off when peoples cars are messed with, if someones got a problem come and see me face to face so I can kick your head in don't mess with my car, and even worse some baghead thinks they have the right to smash your window and nick your stuff to feed there dirty habbit, should be drowned the f :tsktsk: kin lot of them B :tsktsk: ards.

I am in complete agreement, but when my beemer got keyed i got told off for putting a sign in the window asking for information and stating there would be no police involvement. Did stop any of my cars from ever getting touched again though when i lived in the street.

Back on topic have you checked your policy for glass cover? not sure if its just on fully comp but if you do get it on TPFT its not classed as a claim

would be sad if it does not go ahead.its the high light of my year,and am was realy looking forward to going this year.

TBH i can see it if they leave it too long someone might jump in and create another, its not that hard to get venues what is hard is having the capital to book it.

I may be a bit touch and go now as the car will be going into the bodyshop to have some niff naff sorted out. Hopefully it will be done by then.

Thanks very much guys for the info, nice to see you back Colin have you been on holiday or something or have i not been paying attention. Hows the supra Fargo?

The procedure for the euro spec GS300 uses the ODBII information on throttle angle to make adjustments. The Aristo doesn't support ODBII does it?

nope unfortunately its m-obd on the imports

Prob cause we upset that wedding LOL

Problem with mersea was it wasn't very centralised for everyone and now the uncertainty around it has LED the other car clubs making their own arrangements. TBH if they don't sort it soon i can see there either being no JAE this year or a very sparsely populated one.

Just wondering if one of you fine fellows has a reference guide for setting up the Throttle position sensors. Its for a VVti aristo but i would imagine the 2jz-ge is near as dammit.

Problem is its not jsut plug play and tweak they need setting up with a multimeter etc i just don't know what values i should be expecting and going striaght off the rev range doesnt work

Cheers

Austin

It says it only applys to disks bought from the 1 April onwards.

So why don't you do it online the 14 days before - in theory you'd get the old rates going by their wording?

Unless they mean the new rates apply to tax disks with a date of 1 April onwards but bought prior to this?

If the car industry wasn't in enough trouble this should help hammer the nails in then. As far as i am concerned all hikes in car tax, mot and insurance cause is more illegal drivers they never price people of the road they just increase the criminals.

Fortunately i have an import so i don't have to go underground just yet

Mind you the way this is going if you have a car thats over 1500cc soon they'll send death squads after you

If i have the car sorted by then i'll try and make it all being well

Cheers dude :)

Have you swapped yours then mate?

no but i did it on the mk1 and i had a look at these as i will put a leather interior in eventually but there are more pressing matters atm. Saw the same problems though its fitting them out the door jsut be patient

How hard is it to remove the front seats in an Aristo?

I'm looking at this but it sounds too easy:

http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/GS_97-...ents/index.html

Isn't there more too it than that - such as connectors etc?

Thanks in advance!

Its easy you jsut undo the connectors and then the bolts on the rails then get tehm out. The hardest bit of the whole job is getting them out the door without scratching anything.

When i took mine out i left the plug attached so i could tilt/slide the seat to get it out then disconnected the plug at the last

Hi,

just bought 1997 LS400 and am very impressed beats several mercs I had in every dept,have two queries re car.1.what are buttons beside auto stick for pwr/norm/ overide/ for?.2.aircon blowing hot on passenger side but cool on drivers when both are at same setting.

regards,

Damien

the overide button is to allow you to move the auto stick without the engine being on or depressing the brake pedal to release the solenoid. the norm/pwr button is for the autobox it gives it more of an aggressive shift in ect pwr mode and hangs onto the revs more. dunno about the vents does it have a dual setting and if it does is one side activating properly? have you set it to dual and managed to set both to the same temp?

Did Mat do too long in the tanning booth ?

no have you not seen what the army do when they run out of toilet paper?

Thanks for the replies, it looks like I'll be ordering from the States then if I want new. Any recommendations of suppliers?

The T/B is clean, starts and idles fine, plugs, leads, rotor arms, ignitors etc are all fine, it's just misfiring if I accelerate hard. Doesn't seem to misfire if I rev it when stationary though, so I'm thinking it's got to be the TPS. I'll check it over with a multi meter first though.

cheers all.

Are you sure its missing? Rather than a miss does it feel like the car has suddenly become "choked"

Yes its jsut the anti squeals you want now and some molybdenum or copper grease ;)

Molylolylobby what

Thanks for that, going to give Mr T a call in the morning :)

what chu talking about fool

That's right fella, just on the jspecs :)

In that case it is what I'm looking at:

04945 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT

04945‑30120 JZS16* 1 $36.99

04945‑30140 JZS16* 1 $58.87

04947 FITTING KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT

04947‑30120 JZS16* 1 $96.59

47743A SPRING, ANTI-SQUEAL (FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE)

47743‑30020 JZS161; JZS160..5FC 4 $4.68

47743‑30020 JZS16* 4 $4.68

The fitting kit appears to be the little brackets which already come with the Mintex pads - example pic here:

So it is just the shim kit I want then, will get one before I get the brakes swapped over cheers fella :)

Was just confused what with the Mintex pads saying they'd already got acrylic shims - didn't know if that was to replace the OEM stuff or whether it's in addition too, I'm getting there slowly!

Yes its jsut the anti squeals you want now and some molybdenum or copper grease ;)

OK I'm going to swap over the brake disks and pads soon and have just been looking into brake fitting kits and shim kits in the EPC and now I'm totally confused!

Previously in the past I've not ordered anything other than disks and pads - and I seem to have been fine.

Reading past posts people seem to mention shim kits and fitting kits - so I've looked into the EPC and from having a nosey in the box the pads already have the fit kit in there - ie the metal clips and the metal backing - and according to what you read they have acrylic shims so does this mean that fitting kits and shim kits are required only when using Lexus OEM pads?

Or are these something else above and beyond what comes with the third party stuff and where possible you should dump whatever comes with the new pads (if possible) and replace with either the old fit kit / shim kit if in good condition or bin all of these and purchase new shim kits and fitting kits from the dealers?

You still have the jspec fronts on don't you. I bought the anti squeals from toyota they are jsut a set of thin gauge plates that clip onto the back of the pads. There are actually 2 sets that toyota do one is the plates and there is another one which i can't remember but its jsut over £100 for both sets

Hi All,

Firstly Happy New Year.

Next, i've got the common issue of a sticking front caliper on my 95 GS. I've trawled the forums and internet and found someone recommending Brakes International for the repair kit but i can't find one listed on the online shop..

Am i missing something there or is there an alternative (non-dealer) supplier for the kits?

Many thanks,

Nick

Search for Jspec supra brakes as well as they are the same one and give these guys an email they can get quite alot.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-MR2-Brake-Cal...A1%7C240%3A1318

Anyone know how to remove the airbag covering safely?

I'm trying to turn it afew degrees as it's not quite straight. Is it splined or hexagonal type?

Cheers

get your geometry checked its more likely your toes are out than the steering wheel. I'll now await Tony flinging the cat at me as i got the wrong part of the geo to cause the steering wheel to go off centre

Is this a spoof thread or something? I always get suspicious when i see new members making bold statements on their first posts.

Firstly Happy New Year to you all!

I've had my 98 Aristo Vertex v300 for ten years now and loved every minute of it however it's recently hit on hard times and I'm desperately trying to get it back on the road and fixed up. Any advice from anyone on here welcomed.

The problem started on a trip to Cardiff last year, the oil light came on whilst on the M4 so I pulled into the next services, bought some oil, put it in and drove on. The oil light had gone off. Somewhere near Swindon the car just cut out, and I cruised over to the hard shoulder and was evertually picked up by the AA and brought back to home by them.

They had suspected the cambelt had broken which I thought was odd given the mileage (around 50,000) however I arranged for a local garage whom I know personally to pick up and look at it. It turns out the oil had turned to very thick black sludge and they suspected this had led to a cam seizing and then the timing slipped and the car stalled. The cambelt was still in good order but I had it replaced anyway.

The oil problem it seems was due to a different garage using the wrong type of oil when the service was done several months previously and hence the whole thing had sludged. Obviously I don't know the extent of the damage. The engine was flushed several times, the filters and cambelt changed and fresh oil put in. The engine starts and runs fine and quiet however on start up particularly, plumes of grey smoke pour out of the car until it warms up and then it subsides. There is quite a smell too.

The car still passes the MOT emissions apparently however I'm worried whether this means the engine has terminal damage or whether it's turbos, blocked breathers, valve stem seals or even a symptom of whatever was flushed through.

The car has not been run other than on my drive since all this was done. Do I just need to run it for a while or will I do serious damage to the cat or other parts of the engine if I don't sort this first?

There is seemly a lack of expert services for this type of car in my area so I've turned to the good people on this forum. If there are any things I could try or my local garage could do I'd like to do those before trailering it off somewhere for major surgery.

Seems like the season for Aristo problems . Does the smoke smell rich at all, if it does then its running rich and probably the o2 sensor needs renewing. If the turbos are getting past their best then look into the piping beyond the turbos, if it has alot of oil in it then the seals are starting to go. However saying that nothing is as it seems on these bloody things as i am chasing a fault around myself atm.

I may have a weld on one in the shed. I got it with my wideband sensor but the exhaust place used their own.

Stav

No sorry i want my flange to be screwable and a nice tight fit

It is screwable, you weld the flange to the exhaust them screw the sensor into it.

in all seriousness i want a direct replacement without resorting to a welding torch, its good for backwards compatibility