mann777

Could you tell me what were the specifications you got. I beleive you need a 700 CCA, I just replaced mine with a Panasoninc brand from the dealer itself, which is CCA-582, your thoughts please

check out the US forum, there are various solutions to your similar looking probs

Guys there are 2 ways to look at this. This method has been recommended by the manufacturer itself via their manual. This procedure is call the diagnostic code clearance.This is usually done as the ECU stored the code in the memory itself. Now to clear one possible way is removing the EFI Fuse ( 20A ) for 10 seconds or more with the ignition switch off. Cancellation must be done by removing the battery ( negative (-) terminal, but in this case you will lose our otehr memory setting like teh clock, radio preset stations etc.It is neccessary to remove the battery terminal to have teh diagnostic code removed. After cancelllation road test the vehicle to check that a normal code is now read on the panel. Usually this new warning light shoudl dissappear after the ignition start. It indicates the trouble areas has been repaired thoroughly. (2) The second method is Place transmission in neutral position, AC switched off. Turn ignition switch off. Using SST tool p/n # 09843-18020 connect the terminals between TE1 and E1 of the TDCL. This is located at the driver side below position.. Now the ignition switch on. YOu will see 3 flashes of the warning. Sinulate the condtition for 2 times more , and they will disappear. Cheerrs buddy

CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME WHAT IS THE EXACT BATTERY SPECS FOR THE FIRST GEN LS. LAST EVENING MY CAR STARTED TO GIVE BIT PROBS ON THE BEGINNING, AND THEN LATER IT WAS OK. AS SOON AS I STOP THE ENGINE AND RESTART THE CRANKING TOOK TIME. I CHECKED WITH MY MECHANICS THEY SAID IT IS THE BATTERY, IT IS SLOWLY DYING OUT, THE OLD BATTERY WAS LAST PURCHASED IN 2OO3. IS THIS TEH LIFE SPAN OF THE MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY. THEN I ENDED UP BUYING A PANASONIC CAR BATTERY THE SPECS ARE AS FOLLOWS MODEL - MF80D26L VOLT - 12V CAPACITY 20HRS - 65AH PLATE PER CELL - 15 WT WITH ACID - 19KG RESERVE CAPACITY - 133 CCA -582 MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY BOUGHT FROM THE DEALER ITSELF. CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME ON THIS ISSUE, IT IT THE RIGHT SPECS FOR MY CAR.

Could somebody explain how the cabin filter is removed and fitted , placed behind the glove compartment. - Appreciate your replies : mann777

Hi simon EPA phased out R-12, which I believe took 15 years to that job, unofficial they are available around UK , they are environrant pollutants . The entry of R134A came in around 1992 and thus became controlled . R134A. are known to be used from 1992 onward models as OEM. Most retro kits did not work as well as OEM systems do now, since 134a requires MUCH less to cool the same amount of air (hence more energy efficient). The major difference between the two according to my instruction was the size of the tubing in the entire system, r-12 needed larger tubes than 134a, and attempting to use the r-12 "legacy" type evaporator/condenser units in addition to the compressor... depending on how much you love your car, the LS400 1992 model onwards have started to use the R134A as the standard cooling equipment. In short to find whether it is R12 or R134 it is the tubing system which you can easily differenciate. cheers mann777