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robert_ashfield

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  • Lexus Model
    LS400

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  1. Been obsessing about the next car purchase for a few weeks. Currently got a MkIV LS400 which I love, but just isn't an enjoyable enough drive for me. I would really like to stick with a Lexus - I've read that the LS430 is a much more involving drive than the 400, with better handling and a bit more attached steering - can any 400 to 430 converts give me an opinion?
  2. I've got a Mk IV with DHP - I'm running 245/50 17" Pirelli PZero Asimmetrico. I think that this was the original tyre size. A while back the guy who designed the DHP, posted the following: Hi, I am the guy who did DHP spec for LS 400. For reference - Spring rate + 10% only, Height -10mm all round, rear anti roll bar + 1mm to aid turn in. Tyres Pirelli P Zero 245/50x17 Jaguar spec( XK8?). No change to dampers. Car was done to please Lexus MD, but dealers liked it so we began to sell it ! Ride wasn't bad, but clearly firmer than std. Any other tyre make much worse. If you want ride quality back, just fit standard springs again. Note- front suspension quite close to bump stoppers, so ride will suffer if springs have sagged with time. Hope this helps. (The full post has some more useful info. ). Based on my very poor maths you've got another 1.25cm on your tyre radius (225mm * 55% vs. 245mm * 50%). I've never had mine scrape on the arches but people have mentioned that it is *really* close, so this could be your problem. I suspect that someone has gone for your current size based on price. On www.mytyres.co.uk there are only 4 245/50 tyre options that start at £162 each but you can get 225/55's at a third of the price.
  3. Glad you had a goood experience. I had the Carina loaner as well. Like you say, makes you appreciate thr LS!
  4. I can vouch for Roys - had my cambelt done there on my mk 1. Very pleased with their service and price.
  5. Try this thread - you may find something of use here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=34639
  6. Hi, Try here: http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html Click on the ARRC logo and you should get a list of years, then choose a make and model. They have the 1999 sound wiring diagrams for the GS300 that you are looking for.
  7. This sounds a bit off the wall, but I've just bought a device called a CG Lock which could be of interest to you. Basically it allows you to tighten the lap belt and lock it in place to keep you firmly in the seat (bringing similar benefits to a harness). It's touted as mainly a performance accessory, but I've found that it has drastically improved my perception of the ride of my car, a LS400 with the Dynamic Handling Pack (17's and lowered springs). I was annoyed as I found the ride a bit harsh, been using this for a couple of days and I'm very pleased - I feel really planted in the seat and much more settled and I am feeling a lot more comfortable. It's under £50 and has a full money back garantee, so could be worth a try. The link is here if you are interested: http://www.cg-lock.co.uk/ The site says it's not suitable for our type of seat buckle, but after I enquired I found that it will fit and work fine, just has to be reversed when fitted so the logo points towards the seat.
  8. I had a similar thing happen on a Saab 9000 I used to own. I found the the levers inside the barrel had worn, meaning that the key would not longer unlock the ingnition. I couldn't justify the cost of replacing the locks, so took out some of the levers from the barrel. Obviously this seriously affected security, but there wasn't really any risk of anyone stealing that car! May not be the same problem as yours as you mention that the barrel looks like it has sunk into the housing, but may help. You could elimate this as the problem if you could get the ignition barrel out of the housing and try to see if the key will move freely in the lock. Normally to get the barrel out you have to remove the plastic cowel around the steering column and the barrel has a spring loaded clip on one side that has to be compressed so you can prise the barrel out (may be different on an LS though as I've never had the need to check). Hope you find an answer.
  9. This tutorial might help. http://www.lexls.com is a pretty good resource.
  10. There's an engine and gearbox on eBay at the moment: Engine Gearbox Bit of an expensive project though at £1,900 for the pair! Hope you find what you are looking for.
  11. No user name or password required, just click on the ARRC logo and you should be able to pick the year of your car, then make and model. The Auto IQ section is really good, as is the Care & Repair Tips.
  12. Found this link that was posted on the US forum yesterday: http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html If you click on the Auto Repair Reference Center logo it takes you to a vast amount of service and repair information for pretty much every make and model. The PDFs of genuine Lexus TSBs make interesting reading! Definately one worth bookmarking.
  13. My local garage replaced the shocks on my '91, so can't comment from first hand experience, but they did say that they were a real pig and the springs were especially difficult to compress. I took the rear seat out myself to save on labour costs - that wasn't difficult just took a bit of time. Made me realise why the cars last so well - the quality of the interior trim fixings are much better than on lesser cars.
  14. My wife has finally managed to convince me to eBay some of the many items that are lying round our house so I have just listed my Mk I workshop manuals. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=8063805781 Apologies if I'm breaking rules posting this, just thought that it would likely be of interest to some members.
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