DJ Wozza

may even be worth a pin TBH

"I went to a rainy car park and all I got was a dented Lexus"

I ban Dave as it seemed like a good thing to do

This is what the Chrome brake caliper stickers look like when fitted :D

BTW Steve, any chance of selling a Black LOC Cap with Gold Logo ?

Very lucky you checked it mate, phew !!

any full wheel alignment machine will identify that a part is worn/bent

I understand what you are saying, however very few machines will actually identify which part(s) are bent

(as sometimes not just one part is affected). The machine used by WIM will show you the part at fault

(or parts) highlighted in a photograph, the technology is amazing and is state of the art.

its down to the technician to check before carrying out the wheel alignment.

Your average spotty oik at a fast fit centre couldn't care less TBH, although I would admit a Lexus/Toyota

technician would be more commited to getting things correct.

The fact remains IS200's are still suffering this chronic problem with inner front tyre wear, my own car

bought some 30 months ago (Lexus Approved Used) almost completely destroyed a set of front tyres

within 1200 miles from picking it up. It had nothing to do with driving style.....

Lexus replaced the tyres free of charge & spent 3 hours with the car doing a "full wheel alignment".

Within 6 months or so the wear was back, so despite their (Lexus) best efforts, the car wasn't correct.

After a visit to WIM and a full geometry set up, that problem in my case (and several hundred other cases)

has been irradicated. Proof of the pudding is in the eating nothing snotty about it at all.....

Hi matey & welcome to LOC :)

wheel alignment, geometry setup, tracking.... its all the same thing, just diferent names.

Sorry fella but you are incorrect, please do not try to tell me some spotty oik at a 'fast fit' centre with a

couple of mirrors & a laser pointer is the same thing as a Full Geometry Set Up (as available at WIM).

That is surely either sheer ignorance, or an uneducated use of jargon.

a full wheel alignment as done by all lexus centers and some other garages such as WIM- this includes making the rear square first, then adjusting the castor camber and toe.bring it into spec.

again a misuse of a term with regards to WIM, there is a massive difference between "full wheel alignment"

and "Full Geometry Set Up" and when you have done some research on the subject and educated yourself further

then you can come back to lecture us :)

this includes making the rear square first, then adjusting the castor camber and toe.bring it into spec.

as for this, I will let the man who knows more than you or I answer with regards to the procedure involved.

Over to you Tony :D

all lexus dealerships do this service and if you find your tyres wear at an un-reasonable rate after you have had it done then talk to your dealership about it. if your car is in good condition (no worn parts) and you check your tyre pressures reguarly as it states in your handbook to do so, then you are doing all you can on your part and the dealership should look into the problem. you may have an underlying fault somewhere (i.e. previous damage not rectified properly for example), and they will be able to advise you further as to why you have excessive tyre wear (i.e. hard driving)

Sorry but that really is a huge cop out for any Lexus Dealer (highlighted in bold) as the IS200 is no longer made,

so ANY dealership can say the tyre wear is down to worn parts, also to blame tyre wear on your driving style is

again a bit of a cop out. The Hunter machine used at WIM will also identify bent suspension components on the

computer screen and in printout, so you can ensure you are getting the correct replacement part.

Many garages will say oh it is "such & such" a part that is wrong, you then go ahead & replace it, then they say

"where you have fitted a new part, the worn one next to it is now causing the issue".... & so it goes on.

the is200 has a common problem with tyre wear- this is because of a number of things-

I find it very strange the main reason for the common inner front tyre wear is not included in your list :o :o :shutit:

The only way to get the best full geometry set up for the IS200 in the UK IMO is to go to the man who knows

more about IS200/IS300 geometry than anyone else, so much so that he re-wrote the book on it.

Go to WIM. Nuff said :winky:

I would say so, the wheels can't get much wider on the front without hitting the suspension arm.

I can see why you want them wider on the back for better traction/grip, but why do you want wider

tyres on the front ? Surely that will upset the sweet steering front end ?

Welcome to LOC Adam. Seriously nice motors those Soarer's, Florian's was fairly rapid :)

Welcome to LOC Ted :)

Braided Brake Hoses & Mintex Pads, Stiffer Anti-Roll Bars, Induction Kit (or even better, Supercharger or Turbo)

Bigger Wheels, HKS or Blueflame Exhaust, Coilover Suspension etc... the list goes on :winky:

:o & I almost forgot..... big I.C.E :D

you won't find out as you don't own one.....

So your point in joing a forum and stating in your details you own a Toyota is ??

After reading your second post, it seems you are really bored & unhappy, so please go away

with your negative attitude, & find a smiley face from somewhere :)

Terribly saddened for you mate, I hope they are caught, then named..........

(not that I would support any kind of vigilante action :o)

Great work as always Chris, lead on !!

Was an absolute joke, the only big event in 120 minutes of football and they miss it......

a few pairs of socks being thrown on the pitch :winky:

Okay so you need to stick it to the door through the gaps? That sounds like a challenge, does it make a lot of difference and off the top of your head how much dynamat would you need and or how much would the cost be for doing both the front doors?

I think I may give it a go depending on cost?

I can't honestly remember how much it was, mine was done in one complete sheet (2 layers), fiddly & time consuming

but worth it over small strips in my book. I think it was a door pack, but really can't be certain.

Basically the rear of the sheet was scored into about 3-4 strips just on the backing (not cutting through the Dynamat)

horizontally. Then the little foam bungs that are between the crash bar & door skin were removed. The sheet was rolled

up starting at the top of the sheet downwards (so when unrolled it would have the writing the correct way up).

This roll was placed in the door cavity above the crash bar and help up in place, then it was very carefully un-rolled

with the bottom of the sheet being aided by gravity as it goes down behind the crash bar. When you are happy with the

location being correct against the inner side of the door skin (here comes the fiddly bit !!), you gently start to remove

the horzontal scored strips covering the adhesive backing. Oce the top one is off and the sheet is held in position, it will

get slightly easier removing the other strips. U can use a wooden spatula stirrer thing from the kitchen to press gently on

the back of the dynamat to get a good seal. It's nice & thin and has a flat end. Try not to get any air bubbles/pockets as

they will reduce the Dynamats effectiveness.

I would suggest you take off the door panel and have a feel inside the door cavity to give you an idea how big a sheet you will get inside in one peice without hitting any obstructions. Probably easier with a mate on the other side of the door

to help with a tape measure. Then see what Dynamat you will need. Like I said above I think it was 2 full Door Kits I used,

but better off checking for yourself to be on the safe side. Once done see what you feel the result is like, you may want to try second sheet on top, but that is up to you, one sheet may well be enough :)

Hope this helps :)

EDIT****

you may find it a little easier removing the woofer & spacer to allow you a bit more access inside the door cavity

All good mate, send me a pm as & when you are ready :)

That Spitfire clip is a classic :)

Hope you are sorted soon mate, that exhaust looks mega

Great News for you fella :D

Are they designed for the African climate or designed for European Roads & just manufactured in Africa ?

Those wet reviews are terrible :o

I have details of suitable struts, and the pressure I have mine set to, I will dig out the info and post it up,

also including stroke & damper length and pressure etc. I drew around the brackets & gave Rabster the

template. Is that the template you have Chris ? (may well have the strut details written on it)

Purely for simplicity (& possibly for cost) it may be worth contacting that fella from the USA as his brackets

are exactly the same as those fitted to my car....

I must admit they are a great mod :)

I don't blame the guy, I think I'd have ducked too !!