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Sagitar

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  1. Very sensible if you are driving a manual gearbox, especially if you are on a slope and need to balance clutch and accelerator and handbrake; but auto gearbox technology has moved on. My car does not have a handbrake, only a foot operated parking brake. It is not intended that this foot operated parking brake should be applied when the car is brought to rest for short periods. If the parking brake is applied and the gearbox put into "park" or "neutral", then it is necessary to apply the footbrake again before engaging drive and taking off the parking brake. Much more sensible to simply apply the footbrake. The auto gearbox fluid flywheel is designed to allow the car to remain stationary with drive engaged and no damage will be caused. There is no equivalent of riding the clutch, nor the danger that results if a foot slips from the clutch in a manual car at rest with a gear engaged. A major reason for choosing an auto gearbox is specifically to avoid all the hassle of applying handbrake, going into neutral, re-engaging gear and balancing accelerator, clutch and handbrake that is an essential part of driving a manual car. Of course, if the traffic is brought to a halt for an extended period, it makes sense to apply the parking brake and select neutral and relax. But for normal stop-start driving in traffic, absolutely not. And before someone suggest that leaving my car in gear for short stops wastes fuel, let me point out that the overall consumption of the IS 250 auto is actually better than that for the manual version . . . . . . .
  2. It's not a tool that most owners would use very often. I wouldn't bother personally. It is difficult for the average person to overtighten a wheelnut by hand, using the tool provided with the car. If you have to change a wheel then you are likely to be going to a garage shortly after and they can check the torque for you. Unfortunately there are still tyre-fitters around who don't understand the importance of the correct torque and it makes me cringe when I see wheelnuts being tightened with a powered impact wrench, but a good fitter should get it right and should set the final torque with a hand tool. If you are determined to buy one, you can get a decent "pre-set" mechanical device for about £25. Don't buy a cheap one that cannot be calibrated, they are worse than useless. Few people have a good feel for Newton Metres. Funnily enough, one Newton is about the force exerted by a medium sized apple under normal gravity. Personally, I am old enough to prefer ft-lb and if I translate your original figures, you would have to apply a force of about 78 lb on the end of a 12 inch spanner to get a torque of 105 Nm. To get that up to 120 Nm the force on the end of the same spanner would have to be about 89 lb. Undoing the nut always requires more force than was used to tighten it, as many have discovered to their cost when faced with roadside wheel removal. The wheel-nut spanner supplied with my car is only about 10 inches long, so I always carry a length of steel tube that fits over it snugly and makes it easier for me to undo the nuts if I need to. I would be interested to know what reason you are given for them setting the torque so far above the manufacturer's recommendation? Good luck.
  3. N = Newton, which is the SI unit of force m = metre, which is the SI unit of length If you apply a force of 1 Newton at a distance of 1 metre then the torque applied is 1 Newton metre or 1Nm You can increase the torque applied by increasing the force applied, or by increasing the distance at which the force is applied i.e. using a longer lever. The difference that you describe is significant and since they have written down the value it clearly wasn't accidental. (Modern torque spanners claim accuracies around plus or minus one percent). So I would at least ask why they did it - there may be new guidance from the manufacturer, but if it is some individual saying 105 is good so 120 must be better then some education is required. Torque loading is calculated carefully to give enough material distortion to lock the thread without going past the elastic limit. At the very least, an increase over spec. will make it more difficult for you to undo the wheelnuts if you need to remove a wheel at the roadside.
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