Kryz

Hi,

I have a Lexus GS300, and I am thinking about replacing the rear brake light bulbs with LED bulbs.

Do i need load resistors so the warning light doesnt flash up? Or will I be ok without?

Has anyone out there tried putting an LED bulb in a Lexus?

Does it show up a warning light or not??

Anyone out there?

Hi,

I have a Lexus GS300, and I am thinking about replacing the rear brake light bulbs with LED bulbs.

Do i need load resistors so the warning light doesnt flash up? Or will I be ok without?

YOU - need to decide if these are the correct parts to cure your problem - but if you decide to replace them no special tools are needed, as i said it would be nice to have a ball joint splitter but it is not really required - u can use a hammer and a block on the other side if rewuired - remember what i said about the nut though!

measure the number of threads that are showing on the rod, and assuming the new parts are the correct ones and of the same size just wind them on until u have same number of threads then they will be in the same position as the old ones

It looks like the correct part.

I am confused does the ball joint splitter aid in removing the nut? do I remove the nut first? ??

from what i can see it is the tie rod end from the steering rack - AFAIK it is a complete assembly and the ball joint cant be replaced on its own - but i may be wrong.

you will need to see if the joint has worn due to any dirt etc getting in there i suspect it has as u say u have clicking which normally indicates a worn component. If it isnt then u should be able to get another rubber boot on its own.

if u do it yourself try and get a ball joint tool if not and u hit it with a hammer at least make sure that there is a nut on the end of the trhead - DO NOT hit the threaded section on its own or you wont get the nut back on.

EDIT: just had another look at the pics it looks like the retaining clip for the boot has come off thats maybe why it looks wet as the lubricant has come out

Does anyone have step by step guide to changing the part/parts?

from what i can see it is the tie rod end from the steering rack - AFAIK it is a complete assembly and the ball joint cant be replaced on its own - but i may be wrong.

you will need to see if the joint has worn due to any dirt etc getting in there i suspect it has as u say u have clicking which normally indicates a worn component. If it isnt then u should be able to get another rubber boot on its own.

if u do it yourself try and get a ball joint tool if not and u hit it with a hammer at least make sure that there is a nut on the end of the trhead - DO NOT hit the threaded section on its own or you wont get the nut back on.

EDIT: just had another look at the pics it looks like the retaining clip for the boot has come off thats maybe why it looks wet as the lubricant has come out

Would it be diffiecult to fit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

And how long would it take? Any special tools needed?

Ahhhh I just got this problem too on my front drivers wheel.

Initially thought it was something (piece of wire or something) hitting the spokes.

Only happens when I turn right more then one full turn of the wheel though...

Might check mine tomorrow and see if its the same bush

You have just described Exactly the same noise that I got.

I sprayed a load a grease onto the joint. Stopped the noise. Should protect it for the time being.

Got my car booked in. I just hope it doesnt cost the earth.

On front wheel drive cars that clicking is usually the "CV" joint....

The GS300 is a rear wheel drive

well its not the "main" ball joint so I cant give u an honest answer , but on the IS ( i suspect the assy is the same) the main ball joints tend to last anywhere from 60 - 90 K or longer... all depnds on the life the car has had i suppose.

The ball joints on the track rods ends will be the same, all depends how car is driven.

if the rubber boot has split or come off that can happen after a few years

The Car had the Ball Joint LWR and Control Arms replaced less than a year ago.

Would this have been changed at the same time?

Cheers

Would these replace this item?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...mMakeTrack=true

Would this have been replace when the ball joint and control arm was replaced?

Or can i just replace the rubber?

well its not the "main" ball joint so I cant give u an honest answer , but on the IS ( i suspect the assy is the same) the main ball joints tend to last anywhere from 60 - 90 K or longer... all depnds on the life the car has had i suppose.

The ball joints on the track rods ends will be the same, all depends how car is driven.

if the rubber boot has split or come off that can happen after a few years

The Car had the Ball Joint LWR and Control Arms replaced less than a year ago.

Would this have been changed at the same time?

Cheers

Cheers.

Next question, how long do the ball joints usually last??

Cheers

OK i have taken my wheel off and found the problem I think.

I have added a couple of links to pictures.

any ideas what needs replacing? Is it the whole arm or just the rubber bit.

I recently got a new tire on my passenger side front wheel. Today I noticed clicking when I took a left turn. The clicking was from the drivers side wheel I think.

Any ideas what it could be from. No clicking when do right turns.

I had a look and couldnt see anything that would catch the wheel.

Help?

My dirver side break light is out.

So i take of the unit and check the light and it doesnt work. I take out the bulb, and put it back in and it works for a bit.

THen the dreaded (!) comes on.

THe light is out again. Its not the bulb, I dont think.

Has anyone else had this happen?

I changed for OEM ones and just had the "generics" till I got the OEM ones, if I get a chance I will meter the installed ones, and the "generics" (if I can find them) at the weekend.

Anyone Else have any ideas?

I have checks 2 types of universal fit sensors and they both have the lower resistance.

Does anyone know is the extra current would blow/fry anything???

Dont want to break my ECU or anything!!

OK, so it's pretty certain I'm going to need to replace my O2 sensors. To be honest, they are so cheap it seems ludicrous not to on an engine that has covered the miles mine has (172k and rising). So, the question is:

This one, this one, this one or this one?

I looked at what I think is the O2 sensor on the manifold on the left as you look at the engine and this has 1 wire, so that would be the first one shown here, but are there any more? Am I right in thinking there are three? If so, where are the others and do they have more wires?

Thanks in advance.

If your sensors are 4 wire then you can get 4 wire sensors from the UK.

Try searching for Lanbda sensors on eBay uk.

I changed for OEM ones and just had the "generics" till I got the OEM ones, if I get a chance I will meter the installed ones, and the "generics" (if I can find them) at the weekend.

Anyone Else have any ideas?

I have checks 2 types of universal fit sensors and they both have the lower resistance.

Sounds well low as each will draw double the current so not too sure really, all I can say is that I put "generic" ones in mine and had no problems.

What resistance are your?

could you check for me? Check the resistance over the 2 same colour wires

How much is the variance and is that measured off an old sensor?

It could be that the heaters on the old ones have increased resistance due to heat and ageing.

The manual says it should have a resistance around 12-15.

Not sure if putting in 6ish ohms will knacker the engine

I have recently purchased 3 universal sensors for my Gs300.

However the heater element resistants is not the same as the standard. I believe it is meant to be about 12-15 ohms.

The ones i have bought are less.

Will this matter?

Anyone know???

They are still narrow band and will fit.

OK so today i turn on my car and notice the aerial was already up.

I turned the engine of and the aerial wouldnt go down, and it made a horrible grining noise.

When I got home I unscrewed the aerial nut and the aerial came out. At the end there is a plastic cord.

How do i get the system to accept the aerial back in?

any ideas??

The red ! came on today. The turned the engine off and back on and it was gone. What does the ! mean??

I have a Lexus GS300 SE MK1

It has 65K on the clock.

I have noticed the accelerator Pedal has been sticking. What i mean by this is when i am stationary, I press the pedal and it feels like it is stuck. I push a little harder and it overcomes the stickiness and lunges the car forward.

Any ideas how to fix this?? Bit of WD40/Copper grease somewhere?

Cheers

Kryz

Anyone out there have any ideas??

I have a Lexus GS300 SE MK1

It has 65K on the clock.

I have noticed the accelerator Pedal has been sticking. What i mean by this is when i am stationary, I press the pedal and it feels like it is stuck. I push a little harder and it overcomes the stickiness and lunges the car forward.

Any ideas how to fix this?? Bit of WD40/Copper grease somewhere?

Cheers

Kryz

Just checked the manual and according to that if it reads 0v its knackered, at 5v its lean, so from that you can deduce they are wideband, ie0-5v.

Probably.

Is that for the MK1 GS300?

DTC 21, 28 Main Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

To obtain a high purification rate for the CO, HC and NOx components of the exhaust gas, a three way cata-

lytic converter is used, but for the most efficient use of the three way catalytic converter, the air–fuel ration

must be precisely controlled so that it is always close to the stoichometric air–fuel ratio.

The oxygen sensor has the characteristic whereby its output voltage changes suddenly in the vicinity of

the stoichometric air–fuel ratio. This characteristic is used to detect the oxygen concentration in the exhaust

gas and provide feedback to the computer for control of the air–fuel ratio.

When the air–fuel ratio becomes LEAN, the oxygen concentration in the exhaust increases and the oxygen

sensor informs the ECM of the LEAN condition (small electromotive force: 0 V).

When the air–fuel ratio is richer than the stoichiometric air–fuel ratio the oxygen concentration in the ex-

haust gas is reduced and the oxygen sensor informs the ECM of the RICH condition (large electromotive

force: 1 V).

The ECM judges by the electromotive force from the oxygen sensor whether the air–fuel ratio is RICH or

LEAN and controls the injection time accordingly. However, if malfunction of the oxygen sensor causes an

output of abnormal electromotive force, the ECM is unable to perform accurate air–fuel ratio control.

(The main heated oxygen sensors include a heater which heats the Zirconia element. The heater is con-

trolled by the ECM. When the intake air volume is low (the temperature of the exhaust gas is low) current

flows to the heater to heat the sensor for accurate oxygen concentration detection.)

From the manual for the MK1.

Looks like its a narrow band

Just checked the manual and according to that if it reads 0v its knackered, at 5v its lean, so from that you can deduce they are wideband, ie0-5v.

Probably.

Is that for the MK1 GS300?

Are any of the o2 sensors on the Lexus Mk1 wideband? i.e. give a signal between 0volts and 5 volts?

I beleive they are all narrow (between 0 volts and 1 volt) however just wanted to make sure.

I have an GS300 MK1 SE. I know toyota put some wideband sensors on some cars in 1997.

Anyone help out there??

The question is till there..

which do we need??

Zirconia and Titania

wide or narrow band?

I am pretty sure they are Zicornia and Narrow band.