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About rincewind

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  1. Should have said that the rad was over and above the standard plugs/oil/cam belt changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I’ve had mine for 13 years. I usually get around 400 miles from a tankful, mixed driving and not spirited (much). In all the time I’ve had it the only thing that’s needed replacing under the bonnet is the radiator, which is an easy job and cost me about £150 and a pleasant morning a couple of years ago. I also changed the water pump and ancillary belts while I was in there, although the the pump I took out looked fine. 148,000 on the clock of which I’ve done 147 of those. It is by far the most reliable car I’ve ever owned. Oh, and the Mark Levinson sound system is lovely - I’ve added a Grom adapter for my iPhone for music and Bluetooth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Didn’t do it in the end- it was on the list of things to change to try to get rid of my front o/s ‘knock’ but others had changed it and the knock was still there on their cars so I left it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Yep 145. It’s running just as well as ever, smooth as when I bought it with only 10k on it. I was asking as I think as engines age the grade to use can change Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hi people, I always use synthetic, but with 145,000 miles on the clock, what's the best grade to use?
  6. I’m not too far - just outside Epping in Essex. Let’s try to get to the bottom of this. I’ll probably be keeping the car for a while yet (had it 13 years so far), and it’s been rock solid so far. I’m probably going to change it for a Tesla Model 3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Where are you mate? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Bushing looks ok though. The fact that the noose goes away briefly when it’s all been relaxed seems to point to shock or top mount, but both have been changed on mine. I’ve changed: Top mount Shocks (x3) Lower ball joint Drop links Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks - I was looking at that as a possibility. Now excluded from the list. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Have you looked at the upper ball joint, the one on the end of the wishbone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I share your frustration. It’s the only thing that spoils the car. I’ve thought hard about what it could be and not yet got to the bottom of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Catnap, I’m really keen to hear the result of this. I’ve had 3 sets of shocks on mine all to no avail. As you said though, the noise deffo goes away for a short while when the suspension has been relaxed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi all, is this an integral part of the upper wishbone or can it be changed on its own. It’s this balljoint I’m referring to https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392237822390
  14. Anyone know if the upper ball joint is an integral part of the wishbone I.e. it all needs changing, or can the balljoint be changed on its own? On mine it seems to be pressed in to the wishbone.
  15. I put new KYB shocks on mine, it made no difference at all, knock still there.