chrisgixer

Soaked both in viakal for 30mins made no odds what so ever still dribbling pump washed out blown the pipes through both ways, seem clear dunno

Nah talking rubbish. Small square hole as the others listed on eBay well I got one out and soaking in viakal dont give you much slack in the rubber hose do they😝

Thanks guys they are the fan type. One slot in the front.... ....although, from memory sitting in the car, they didn’t look so open as I recall. I am wondering if an insert has fallen out of the nozzle. Is that possible? see if can post a pic

Evening all very week flow from the windscreen washers. Barely makes it over the wipers. So presume some flow means the pump is working and the washers are blocked. ...? They look visibly clear externally so blocked internally? Which means removal (sigh) correct? Howdo do they come off?

Just to add, we were speaking with Jpat re this fault over the last few months. They have never heard of this type of fault on any car ever.

1 was thoroughly checked and found to be totally sound by metering with the spade removed and wiggling and agitating the wire to spade connection. 2 solenoid tab solid as a rock and again wiggled to death with meter attached. Solid fault free readings. 3 earth wire is on the front passenger side of the gear box to body bolted directly to both. It’s covered by the under tray so barely any corrosion. Very solid connection. Also don’t forget the other solenoids were showing increasingly intermittent faults as well. It probably took 6 months for c to become a constant fault, some times it would clear itself in the early days, then we had to clear the code with a reader and it would stay off for a while...then after a few months it would come straight back after clearing.... D and E were going the same way but at a much slower pace. the only theory we have is a very old battery charger was being used at one point. Owner had a back operation and the car stood for months being periodically charged. At some point during that period the ignition fuse blew when the charger was attached, which takes some doing, it’s a 90 amp fuse...Sparks and smoke escaped. Possibly leads fitted the wrong way round. Possibly the charger was faulty as it also fried the ecu on another car. ...maybe it was just being used wrongly... anyway... We wonder if the charger delivered a voltage spike that heated some components with low resistance. If those components where sat in oil they might fry some oil onto those connections and they eventually go open circuit. ...yes I know... is that even possible, especially given the increasing intermitant nature of the fault. ...? ATF runs pretty hot anyway. Other than that that the car has had an entirely fault free life apart from an 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 which has returned at the same time as the gear box faults. This is behaving like a faulty sensor though, as it does clear and then return after a few miles driving. Suspect pattern part used. I don’t know what else to suggest as to why tbh. And even that doesn’t seem likely. There was no evidence of residue on the tab or spade other than oil and some slight silty residue that covers everything else in the gear box, like the stuff on the magnets in the sump. The box was in perfect condition mechanically going by the minimal residue left in the sump with the oil removed. Me no undystandy....

Ps, as the pins are so small on the ecu to loom plug, don’t do what we did, and stick a paper clip down the loom plug to get to the pins as that will cause the connector to not connect when the loom is plugged back in. As if we didn’t have enough Argo already..... Try and and find something the same size as the ecu pins to connect a meter to the loom plug wires if possible, to avoid damage to the pin connector. We probably stretched to connector open with the paper clip, causing a bad connection.

Ok just to update this in case it helps anyone else.... we diagnosed the fault, p0763, not to the solenoid, but to the spade connector that attaches to solenoid c as open circuit. We don’t know why, but unplugging and re seating the connector fixed the problem and the car now runs with a fault free box and manual mode is available again. p0768 solenoid D was also throwing a code intermittently and showed high resistance from the ecu loom plug so that spade connector was re seated as well. E was also seen with a fault on 1 occasion. the input turbine speed sensor fault p0715 we presumed was caused by the box not selecting the right gear and has not shown a code since obviously with no corrective action taken. Question remians... why would a clearly attached spade connector go open circuit while still connected? The solenoids sit in atf in the sump. They were clipped on, in place, as you would expect. Nothing was visually at fault. With a meter attached to the white with blue trace wire to solenoid c we could see the cnnnection being made just by wiggling the plug to solenoid c as it sat in situ. Removed the plug, cleaned the spade connector and the solenoid tab, refitted, all good. Resistance showing 12 to 13 ohms. ...but for how long? I know it’s common practice for autobox connections to sit in oil but oil does block an electrical signal, and the fault did go from intermittent to permenant over the period of almost a 6 months. D and E showed high resistance of up to 18 ohms, so they were cleaned as well, and if left probably would of gone the same way. They were showing 12 to 13 ohms on re assembly after cleaning. can only assume some sort of build up on the spade connector and tab on the solenoid caused the fault. Weird.

Wooo, maybe you can get the staff after all. thankyou Mr Barber 👍

And there was banging on about a 3.0 as well.... although ..... wtf didn’t you say so before now 😂😝😂😝😂😝

It swaps between fuel system and that includes injectors. Ignition is common to both obviously so... As said, I would turn the lpg off, eliminate it from causing complications and focus on the petrol side. Read fuel trims, clear codes which resets the trims as well and drive on petrol only and see if the codes are raised again. Get that sorted and then introduce the lpg later. fuel trims can be pulled away from zero by lpg and cause issues, but... A miss fire code is almost always a miss fire as it’s raised by the ecu on the ignition circuit . Injectors have their own set of codes electrically, and would cause mixture issues that the lambas would see. Has the loom and connectors to coil pacs been checked? 0420 0430 is pre cats bank 1 and 2 respectively.( Bank 1 has cylinder 1 2 3 ) pre cats in the manifolds. It might settle if the miss fire is sorted, but ignore the pre cats and concentrate on the miss fire, it’s not a biggy at this stage imo. Ps pre cat efficiency is purely a worn out cat, they get a very hard life.

Don’t believe there’s a Haynes for the is? Any alternatives available? Lexus don’t seem to know anything I ask them. 😝 lol

Michelin pilot sport 4... or super sport if they fit but as said you really need to define “best” ? ...best on price, grip, noise, ..? More often than not best means cheap. And mps4 ain’t that.

Bah, just twigged the dates of posts

Run it in petrol for a week and see if it settles. Check fuel trims prior to code clearing and see if they are near zero. Doubt pre cat would coincidentally block on both banks at the same time....? Presume LPG is/was running ok with no fuel trims issues?

Hi can anyone tell or guide me as to whhich auto gear box is fitted to this car? Manufacturer and model number? I need to order and replace a solenoid valve. (Sigh) ta

Nope. It is the related to the efficiency of the pre cats themselves located in the exhaust manifold....not the main bigger cat. the fix is to weld in a new 02sensor boss positioned after the main bigger cat and relocate sensor 2 from each bank there. The main cat will then clean the exhaust gasses and put the light off. I don’t know if the sensor wires are long enough to reach they may need to be extended. Sounds a pita but Bosses are freely available and you’ll need someone who can weld, but it’s by far the cheapest fix compared to new Lexus cats or aftermarket ******* that doesn’t work. It is NOT an 02 sensor fault.

Ah ok, I don't have card reading capabilitys. Thanks for the heads up there. So there's nothing better than Grom out there for the lexus..?

Any lights in the dash? Scan for codes and check fuel trims. Maf or missfires. I'd guess.

71 views, don't all jump in at once ;D

Ps I have checked the uk site. Also, does anyone have any compatibility issues with the 5s? I presume the Grom software is upgrade able? Or is this done via an app on the phone?

Hi All, I researched this a good while back and Grom appeared to be the way to go. But I was mainly looking at Ipod connectivity back then and her current hands free is hopeless. Car is an is300 sport cross with pop up nav screen in the dash, built in changer as I'm sure you know, we have iPhone 4S and 5 plus a 4th gen nano and an old third gen ipod. The Grom.com web site appears to suggest "NO navigation" or similar in the comparability chart for the car, and I can't see anything to confirm 100% that anything older iPhone 3GS will be compatible. Although I may be looking in the wrong place. I have emailed Grom uk to confirm but until they reply can members here add anything further? Apologies if this is a common question but I want to be sure the Xmas gift is a success. ;) Cheers.

What's the service history/oil changes been like? Might indicate a noisy hyraulic lifter, which don't appreciate long oil changes. Maybe try a bottle of wynns lifter treatment with an oil change. Difficult to diagnose noises from the wrong end of key board though. :(

Blocked ac drains? Any sign of water drips under the car when parked up engine and ac on? It should drip condensation from under the car from the drain...?

What Steve said ;)