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SpOcK

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Posts posted by SpOcK

    Turbo Vs. Super Charging

    in Supercharging & Turbo Modifications

    Posted

    by the way standard injectors are ok for up to 260bhp and 0.7 bar of boost  :winky:

    The theoretical max hp output from any given injectors can be roughly calculated from this formula:

    injector volume in cc * number of injectors / 5

    I

    --> 220cc * 6 / 5 = 264bhp

    So Bazza, you're quite right. But that's in theory, the practise is a whole other thing... :tomato: I have one 1000cc(!) extra injector on the inlet piping, and I wouldn't have managed without it... :blink: I've tried not to intentionally maxx the std injectors, but instead mapped them to, say, 80-90%, and the rest is done with the extra injector.

    Turbo Vs. Super Charging

    in Supercharging & Turbo Modifications

    Posted

    Is it a good time to mention uprated internals with a turbo though as with standard you can only pump so much boost through the engine and the more boost you give it the faster its going to go which on a non turbo to turbo car means playing with compression ratios too as (if i don't have it backwards) due to the greater amount of air going in via a turbo the engine needs to have a lower compression ratio (8:1 over 10:1?)

    The need to lower the compression ratio when turboing a N/A car becomes from the fact, that when the engine is given more air (and more fuel), there's a greater amount of exploding mixture in the same given space (cylinder), and when it is compressed the same as the lesser amount before, it has a tendency to self-ignite. This results in "premature burning", which means that the burning mixture hits the pistons when it's still on its way to TDC, which means detonation, which means death to std internals.

    One can upgrade to "turbo-grade/forged" internals (or better yet, it's advisable), but there's other things too to do to prevent detonation. One is, that N/A cars have quite an aggressive ignition timing, so that should be retarded. Factory ECU not being tuneable, it should be done with either "piggy-back" ECU, or stand-alone ECU.

    Still one way to prevent detonation is to lower the intake air temperature. Relocate the air filter to get colder air, get it heat shielded, install (bigger) intercooler, and/or use waterspray into the intake to further decrease the intake air temperature and to prevent detonation.

    So turbo/turbo'd car doesn't actually DEMAND lower compression ratio, it's just one way to prevent the detonation. Audi for example has made turbo engines running ~10:1 compression ratio and still with ~2bar of boost. :blink: But as I said, detonation can be mastered by other means, as well. Hope this helps.

    #Sami

    B&m Shortshifter

    in Modifications & Tuning

    Posted

    It's one of the best (more or less...) cost effective mods you can get! I've had the B&M one for a year now, and couldn't live without it, it's such a great piece of a equipement! As others have pointed, the fitting is a walk in the park. It's so much faster to shift, and it has that "sporty whine" as in "real" sport/rally cars. But if you're more into luxury, then it's not for you...

    Just my 5 pennies... :)

    I Blew My Engine!

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    Option 1

    I'd go with an actual engine.... nothing crappy old junk.

    3S-G(T)E Beams IV or 2JZ-GE from the IS300 or Supra engine with the whole ECU wiring and and and.....

    .....

    .......and then BOOST BOOST BOOST B)

    Option 2

    1G-GTE with a new programmable standalone ECU :unsure:

    As tempting as those options would be, I couldn't do it :angry: as I want to remain street legal, and because of that I need to maintain OBD-II and fulfil Euro III/IV emission requirements. :yawn: Stupid/Euro Finnish legislation! :angry::angry:

    And with a custom turbocharged IS200 you are street legal?? :blink:

    Yes. As crooked as it sounds, that would be street legal, as long as I maintain OBD-II and fulfil EURO III/IV emission regulations. As I said, stupid/Euro Finnish legislation... :crybaby:

    I Blew My Engine!

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    Why not get an aftermarket ECU, like Power FC or HKS F-Con?

    Power FC can be had for £600 shipped. Thats if they make one for that engine.

    As tempting as those options would be, I couldn't do it  :angry: as I want to remain street legal, and because of that I need to maintain OBD-II and fulfil Euro III/IV emission requirements.  :yawn: Stupid Euro/Finnish legislation!  :angry:  :angry:

    That's why...

    I Blew My Engine!

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    Option 1

    I'd go with an actual engine.... nothing crappy old junk.

    3S-G(T)E Beams IV or 2JZ-GE from the IS300 or Supra engine with the whole ECU wiring and and and.....

    .....

    .......and then BOOST BOOST BOOST B)

    Option 2

    1G-GTE with a new programmable standalone ECU :unsure:

    As tempting as those options would be, I couldn't do it :angry: as I want to remain street legal, and because of that I need to maintain OBD-II and fulfil Euro III/IV emission requirements. :yawn: Stupid Euro/Finnish legislation! :angry::angry:

    I Blew My Engine!

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    Sounds nasty!

    1G-GTE.... i'd do that, 1bar boost with stock internals... 300hp or something like that...

    I would do it, if I could run 1G-GTE with my current 1G-FE computer... :blush::crybaby:

    BUT HEY! Would this be possible if I put in 1G-GTE, but used all my current 1G-FE sensors and ECU?!?! :blink::blink::huh:

    I Blew My Engine!

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    When you anyway wasted your old block I'd watch out for the 1G-GTE, 2JZ or anything.  :winky:

    1G-GTE would be VERY tempting, but the difficulty would be the ECU and the wiring loom... I wouldn't want to change all the electronics, and even if I did, I couldn't get it through MOT in Finland, as older engines don't utilize OBD-II. :( :angry:

    I Blew My Engine!

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    I was just on my way back from work, when suddenly when pulling away from junction, there was the LOUDEST bang followed by a mix of clinging and rattling noises... :tsktsk:

    I shut the engine immediately and pulled off. I then went back to see what I've left behing, and collected a handful of different engine parts off the road, including a piece of block wall and a conrod bolt. :o

    So, now I'm in need of an engine, or at least "bottom end". Anyone got one?

    What Do You Think About These? ;)

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    so what power are you hopeing to see when this is done  :whistling:

    Somewhere between 350-400 hp... :shifty:

    In 4th or in 5th gear...... :shifty:

    :tomato::lol:

    Just a little snippet from another thread on this forum. 'Nuff said... :whistling:

    ---8<---8<---8<---8<---8<---8<---

    Drive train losses aside, the gear in which the measurement takes place does not matter.  In 4th the measured force will be higher, but the speed lower than in 5th, theoretically giving the same power. 

    ---8<---8<---8<---8<---8<---8<---

    Cheers,

    RX-Men-8

    Amen! :)

    What Do You Think About These? ;)

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    Yes! :D

    New guessing game:

    Do you think I read your first post very exactly :question:  :blush:

    You won't need a thicker head gasket when you set the CR down with the pistons. B)

    Maybe you didn't read very thoroughly... :lol:

    I won't reduce the CR with the pistons, as I want to retain the possibility to use also the std CR, if I want to revert back to N/A e.g. when selling the car. So I'll use thicker head gasket to lower the CR. 1mm extra on head gasket equals lowered CR from std 10:1 to 9:1.

    What Do You Think About These? ;)

    in Engine & Transmission

    Posted

    Let's play a guessing game.... :shifty:

    Would your engine run with only the rods?? :blush:

    :D

    You mean this??:

    I also sent one std piston (Thanks again Daz! smile.gif) to US today as a model for the new forged pistons. Uprated rods, pistons, and thicker head gasket, and I should be able to run greater 1.0-1.2 bar boost and more POOWEEERR! driving.gif
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