bigegg

I have an error code of "76" by the ect/pwr flashing light. :.( I can't find a definition for it? All the lists I see have 72 then 78 - no 76 listed

I want to have a third key cut for my '99 GS300. I can obtain the blank key + a two or three button shell from the 'bay for a couple of quid, but 2nd hand transponders seem a bit thin on the ground. A quick search for "toyota key" seems to bring up several which appear physically identical - three buttons in the same place, same shape plastic bit - except that the metal part is pointed, rather than cut square. Does anyone know if a transponder removed from a toyota key can be reprogrammed [1] for a lexus? doesn't matter if two or three button, and programmed as valet or master. Thanks [1] I know that technically I reprogram the car, rather than the key :)

aaaarrrrrrgggghhhhhh! I'm obviously doing something wrong here. I've tried connecting up the paperclip - to CG and TC on the under-steering-wheel plug. Also tried connecting TC and E1 on the under-bonnet plug as http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/techo.htm#ENGINE_CODES Same effect both times - dashboard lights up like a christmas tree. I have ABS VC TC ETC/Snow ETC/Power and the engine management light alll blinking away - at different rates to each other, but all regularly - no pauses :tsktsk: so no codes. I've checked my brake fluid level and it seems to be OK - dead on the max line, and it appears clean. I can see myself having to visit a lexus dealer in a very short while :.( <EDIT> Having read a couple more articles: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/56212-how-to-read-ecu-error-codes-on-a-mk2-with-a-paperclip/ http://www.bba-reman.com/auto-mine/toyota/toyota_obd.htm it would appear that the regularly blinking ligts mean no fault codes stored... so definitely lexus dealer for a live data reading?

Thanks for the above info. The brake light doesn't always remain lit - it seems to remain lit after the parking brake has been used, then turns off after the car is switched off without the parking brake applied. Hence the reason to consider the switch. I will check the buzzer wiring - does anyone happen to know where the buzzer is located? I'm going to go take my paperclip back out to the car now and check the codes...

do you mean lsd? limited slip differential?

is the "inside socket" the one which looks a bit like a TV scart lead? Is it "DLC3"?

Thanks - I read that thread. Car revs and drives normally - but I can't set pwr mode. Snow mode seems to set OK, although the ECT/PWR light still flashes. can you point me towards a picture of the pin-out for the inside socket so I can find pins e1 and ts All the instructions I can find point towards bridging pins on the socket which is under the bonnet? As to the problem being the shift solenoid, the car seems to change gears perfectly - it's a 4-speed box (?) and I can see all four changes on the rev counter and barely feel them. I'm going to check the transmission fluid tomorrow - I *hope* that's all it is, but changing the solenoid doesn't seem like a terrible job.

I've spent the last two hours googling and just ended up confused - mainly because I haven't got a clue what to search for! I just took delivery of my '99 GS300. It has a regular flashing "ECT PWR" green light on the dash. The handbook says "possibly transmission, see dealer". not gonna do that until I've exhausted the DIY options :.) So... first step is to see what engine codes? I popped the bonnet, trusty paperclip in hand to generate the flashy lights for the diagnostics, and the TE1 socket doesn't have a connector in it :.( I'm guessing that means OBD2, but non-standard so can't be read with a cheap ebay reader? Is there another way of doing the paperclip test? Is there a trick with the pedals (as on Opel/Vauxhall cars?) to get the codes? Or do I have to fork out my hard earned to get a diagnostic? Don't mind paying for a tool if it's not TOO steep... Also - handbrake light stays on when I release the handbrake - seems to dim slightly, and the handbrake does release. Sticky switch? is it in the handle? or the brake drum? Thanks

Regardless of what the person is who you ask for your data, it won't help, and will be a waste of money. The statistics behind a quote are NOT your personal data - they WILL NOT be given in a SAR The ONLY way to make a complaint to the insurance ombudsman stick, is to get two quotes for a car - one from the old postcode, one from the new postcode - and prove that the insurance increase is disproportionate to what it would have been to a new customer, and you are therefore being penalised (charged a "penalty", which is unlawful under English law) for changing address. Without such evidence, the OP is wasting his time, energy, and money Disclaimer: In my own opinion - I AM NOT A LAWYER (yet)!

ta very much

lol. no worries. easy swap?

I actually *want* to put the indicator stalk on the left... Cos that's where it is on the car MrsEgg will be taking lessons in, and I don't want to confuddle her.

Nope. Went to test drive a 'n' reg '95 GS300 (NOT an import), and the indicator stalk was on the right. Since this was actually the first I've driven - as opposed to being driven (due to insurance), it's the first time I've noticed which side the indicator stalk was on - hence the question. I used to have a '92 K reg Shogun where the stalk was on the right, and it was a PITA swapping between that and the other car I had at the time. Since this will be for my wife to learn in, and since it seems that most gs300s have the stalk on the LHS (from what you said), will it be a simple job to swap over? I'm assuming all the switch stalks will need changing, but will I need to change the steering wheel as well? Might just be easier to find a different, perhaps slightly newer car - but I do like the mk1

hopefully simple question with simple answer :.) Do all GS300s have the indicator stalk on the right hand side of steering wheel? What about ls400s? (realise this is in wrong forum) If not, when did they change? UK spec only. Thanks

is this the car? http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_606206-Ford-Cortina-2000E-Estate-1974.html

As an amateur bodger all-round handyman, I have attempted to weld up blown exhausts on several occassions. It doesn't work for long! The problem is that exhausts corrode from the inside out. When they finally reach a point where they blow through, the rest of the pipe is very thin as well. As soon as you weld the hole, you introduce impurities into the metal - soot from the inside of the pipe, gases from the air. You also alter the alloy in what is called the "heat affected zone", as the lower melting point metals in the alloy are boiled away by the heat. All this causes the area around the weld to be more suscebtible to corrosion, and means that it will fail again quite soon. They *can* be welded perfectly if removed from the vehicle and scrupulously cleaned inside and out before welding *IF* the rest of the pipe isn't too badly corroded inside, otherwise it'll just blow through somewhere else any way. Its usually as cheap, and easier, to simply fit a new exhaust than have it re-welded every three months.

Cars pre 1998 don't need a type approved towbar. I could weld one up myself and it could pass MOT and would satisfy "Construction & Use regulations" without any official testing neccesary. any way, it's a bit academic at the moment, cos when I went to collect the car, there was a massive crack in the windscreen that wasn't mentioned in the advert So I'm back to looking - for a LS400 this time

I just bought a cheap (£350) GS300 for my wife to learn to drive in Thinking about adding a tow bar, but the UK prices are horrendous - I've just been quoted £400 (including fitting), or £300 supply only. I prefer the US style "receiver" tow hitch as I can fit a bike rack to it. I've been looking on the US bay of E and they're selling for about $140 (£80). Even after shipping, duty, and VAT, I'll still be looking at less than £200 - and fitting isn't a problem, I must have fitted 40 or 50 over the years to various cars and vans. Has anyone imported a tow hitch form the US? Any issues? Any recommended supplier? I only tow a 750kg trailer, no caravans!

MrsEgg is going to be learning in it. It's gonna get *battered* :.( lol.... I can see where you are coming from. Luckily, you are in Yorkshire, so thankfuly it won't be one of my cars she will be battering into Mind you, I would find a different instructor, as they should be teaching "not to collide with anything", not "expect to collide with everything" that'd be me out of a job then. <insert smiley with crash helmet>

MrsEgg is going to be learning in it. It's gonna get *battered* :.(

ok... Thanks. So. Long story leading to short question with short answer... When I come to buy the newer (2001 Ser2 f/l) - would I be better off: A.selling the old one ('98 ser2 pre f/l) as a runner and putting the money aside for if I need parts for the newer? OR B keeping the old one for spares? (assuming no issues with storage space) OR C. stripping the old one and keeping bits, and selling off the shell? If C, which bits to keep, which bits to sell? Obviously (to me, am I right?) I should strip out the brake master cylinder and sell on. Headlight washers?

Got it. So if I get a '98 mk2 (with the circular headlights), rather than a (say) '97 with the square headlights - most of the parts will fit a 2001 facelift mk2 - apart from, I'm guessing, the improved master brake cylinder?

Does anyone know how many parts are interchangeable between a >1997 series 1 GS300 and a 2001ish Series 3(?) ? My wife is learning to drive, and I'm thinking a cheap series 1 for her to learn in, then a better, newer series 3 for later. But... I would like to keep the series 1 for spares... would it be worthwhile?

I don't actually own a Lexus, as yet- still in discussion with my other half, because I want an LS400/430, and she wants an IS300. We can compromise on a GS300 and it's very likely to be a series II, 1998-2001 model but the issue with the brake cylinder/pump has me worried. Realistically, how big a problem is it? As in, how common, how likely? I realise the cost implications if it fails Is it only the 1998-2001 prefacelift Series II that is affected? - the buying guide is a little confusing. This is the only issue which is delaying my decision. If I'm likely to have to fork out 1600 for a brake cylinder on a GS300, I'd rather buy an IS for MrsEgg, and use the 1600 to buy me an LS400 (which I'd rather do to be honest, even if it means getting rid of my 15 y/o Ford Transit)

That's interesting, maybe they did some work since the pics? I could see a large dent above the drivers wheel arch (a decent sized shunt at the front that has buckled the wing?), The front bumper is completely shot and not fitting the shut lines of the wings anymore, washers missing, wheels badly corroded and discoloured. Dent in boot lid, rust on bootlid, a large mark above passenger wheel arch (but can't make out what it is from those pics), Something on the sill on the drivers side (again, can't make it out fully from the pics), front and rear disc corroded, so not seen much use when those photos were taken. I've seen worse for £500! As I said, it doesn't look such a shed in person - I never even noticed the boot lid!