Rooster

Hi, Sorry to bump this up. Can anyone provide me an idea of how far the steering wheel can reach out? If it's out as far as it goes in my pics I will just put up with it. If pics can be provided of the extent, that'd be great. Thanks in advance for your time.

I forgot to ask in my last reply.. Can the steering wheel reach out further than mine is in the pics? If so, may I have an estimate of how much further? Thanks

Thanks again.

Thanks Mark, from the info provided in those links I might tackle the job myself. Can you tell me whether the headlight or battery needs to be removed to access the rear of the headlamp assembly? There doesn't seem to be much room for my hand to reach in, so I'm looking for any shortcut on the job if possible. Many thanks, again.

Hi everyone, long time no post. The steering reach is stuck approximately one inch out from the dash. I've tried the switch 10 times in succession however that no longer works. Pushing the switch one way renders a brief and faint squeak, pushing the switch the other way I momentarily feel a faint rumble. I wouldn't mind if the wheel could come out a bit more because I need to have the seat all the way back and am finding that my arms tire after a while from being too straight. I would like to be certain that the wheel can come out further (and an idea of how much further) before I get the reach fixed. I really don't recall with any certainty whether the wheel could reach out any further. Using the car more lately and I'm allowing this issue to bug me a little. I've attached 2 images, with a larger and a smaller Bic lighter in the "gap", to give more of an idea of the exact situation. The car has HID lamps and I need to change a parking lamp. How do I go about doing that? It's the front left lamp, car is RHD. Many thanks,

I can't see why you can't swap the lock from your old steering column to the replacement column. >> And I have 3 keys with my vehicle and I wouldn't want to have to replace these as these are 200 pounds each from a Lexus Dealer ! << The 3 button remote key supplied when I bought the '99 400 had a cracked head. The dealer kindly provided a new key, having it cut and inserting the 3 button chip for me. So far so good. I wanted a spare 3 button remote to keep offsite in case of fire, theft or loss etc. so enquired at the local Lexus and was quoted US $ 585 for a complete new key which had to come from Japan. I don't know what US $585 is in pounds but I'm sure that it's more than chicken feed. Not content with that, I ordered a used 3 button remote from the US quite cheaply, thinking that I could have a new 3 button remote key cut, which I did, for US $79 and having the 3 button remote chip of mine inserted and reprogrammed. The locksmith couldn't reprogram the insert so off to Lexus where they could only program the key to start the car, NOT open it remotely. Cost for part programming US $36. (US $72 if they could fully program it, they gave me a discount because they couldn't) .-.-.-.- all money wasted though. :\ Just putting it out there. Apparently chips in certain areas have different frequencies from chips in other areas. For now, I use a spare buttonless remote whenever I use the car. I don't want to use the only proper master key I have in case I lose it.

2 Weeks ago I was at a locksmiths discussing this very matter. He said not to tap or hammer the key in if it won't go in readily. He also advised against using powdered graphite, (which I used in an ignition lock over 10 years ago and it's still fine). He said to use Inox.

Bit dangerous parking that there. All too easily backed over and flattened. Quote >> "Tis a braw colour". Too my knowledge "braw" is not a word used in Orstrayyliah but having looked up its meaning I must agree 100%. It's beautiful.

Very nice looking car. Satnav and heated seats too. As suggested, make a reasonable offer and see what eventuates.

Thanks for that link Mark. Leaves me to wonder what the faces of the rims that mount to the hub could be like too.

Certainly the air conditioners and heaters in these cars are superb. I can't run mine at maximum cold either, too cold on my arms with the face vent's setting chosen. There are a lot of bubbles in the sight glass too so I expect the A/C to be even colder once I have it serviced with a new dryer fitted. I run the air conditioning all of the time, just varying the temperature as needs be. I don't think that running the A/C will cause premature failure of the system. cheers

Hi again, What does "the discs were floating" mean please? Was there play between the discs and the hubs? I get very minor brake pedal pulsation when I push on the pedal, nothing that a disc machine won't fix, I hope. Hopefully there's still enough meat left for a minor machining. The periodic vibrations I experience are more a "seat of the pants" thing. cheers

Hi everyone, I'm using the electronic key, just being very wary that I don't lose it. Is there any difference if I lock the door with the key rather than the push buttons? Perhaps I haven't got my head quite around how all of this works yet. The security light comes on either way using the master key and it even comes on with the buttonless key after locking the door with it. The electronic component of the master key I now have came from an original Lexus key head which had cracked and broken. The unlock button has an indented triangle. I've just noticed for the first time that the key shaft on the key subsequently provided with the master head by the dealer is about 5mm longer then the original key shaft from the broken master's shell. It works okay. Looking forward to the pedal dance spoken of !! (TIC) I'm going to try to purge any existing codes first. Hopefully I can sort everything out myself once I get more keys. FWIW, In passing, I asked a Lexus dealership about a new master key and they quoted me AU $650 cut and programmed. No thanks. The wheels were balanced recently, if only that was the vibration problem... I'll get someone to rev up the engine while I look for any tilting. I've looked and looked for a CEL and I just don't see it. Certainly all check lights are off after a few seconds followed by the ALT and oil lights once the engine is started. Thanks for the tips everyone. Bob

Hi from Australia everyone. Not long ago got myself a nice unmodified car with about 190,000 miles on it. First question: The car was delivered to me without a master key but the dealer promptly provided me with one. How is it that I can start the car with the buttonless key when I can use all of the remote functions that the master key provides? I've looked at the programming modes and as far as I can determine by reading up is that the set-up is currently in prohibition mode ... unless I'm missing something. I haven't attempted any reprogramming; I'll be ordering more master keys beforehand. Second question: Just to test the car out I accelerated from standstill with a wide open throttle and noticed quite a loud bang coming from the rear somewhere. If I use wide open throttle once the car is on the move, this bang isn't heard. I suspect diff or driveline but haven't had anyone look at it yet. There is minor periodic vibration at about 48mph up to say 55, then it goes away and comes back at a little bit higher speed, same minor vibration and again it goes away, it doesn't get any worse at the higher speed of its occurrence. Whatever could this be? Also, are the diff fill bolt and drain bolt crush washers the same part number? Third question: I had to get the 1999 USA/Canadian workshop manuals because the RHD books for the Australian model are no longer available. Those books refer to there being a CEL but I don't see one on my dashboard. I've shone a torch on the cluster and it seems there is no provision for a CEL. Is that the situation for UK 1999's? I'm aware of "check engine" being able to be read from the place where it says "Right Hand Front Door Open", etc. Fourth question: Re the "blown bulb" warning lamp in the dashboard, is it connected to the front parking lamps? The shape of the lamp "icon" gives me the idea that it's only for the rear lamps but I'm not sure. I am yet to fix a non working front parking lamp. This warning lamp comes on when I turn the ignition key to the ON position and remains on until I start the engine. Is the warning lamp working correctly? Also, there's a tone emitted from somewhere 5 seconds after I turn the key to ON, that's whether I've already started the engine before 5 seconds has passed or not. Can someone please tell me what that's for? Fifth question: IN RHD vehicles is the main ECU fitted to the passenger side? It seems to be working alright though from researching I gather that it'd be prudent to have the capacitors replaced before any leakage from them destroys the circuit board. If anyone knows of a tutorial or can describe the steps to me of how to remove the ECU (and anything to be careful of or not to do) I'd be very appreciative. I looked in the How-To guide before and it seems there's not one there yet. Many thanks in advance for any assistance.