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steveledzep

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Posts posted by steveledzep

  1. Hi Mike, welcome to the forum.  I ran an IS250C for a couple of years, had two great summers with it around our coastline in south west Wales.  The wind deflector is a necessity in my mind, makes for a very relaxed drive with no buffeting.  To eliminate rattles in the rear, I bought some rubber door stop wedges from B&Q and "wedged" them in where it could rattle.  Very successful solution it was too.  Can't help with your rattly door.  Enjoy your car, wish I still had mine for the good weather.

  2. 16 minutes ago, Barry14UK said:

    Apparently the little rubber seals can perish over time but I would think judicious placement of some good silicone might serve the purpose.

    Good luck with your tailgate problem Steve.  I understand how frustrating it can be getting to the cause of electrical malfunctions. 

    I'll take a look tomorrow Barry, dry and sunny apparently.  It will be interesting what I find.  I've already thought of using some non-setting plumber's mate type stuff on the threads of the bolts, or PTFE tape maybe.  I'll be delighted if I find evidence of water ingress, I then have every chance of sorting the problem.

  3. 2 hours ago, Barry14UK said:

    I tried Lexus Birmingham and as I reported on another thread on this subject, the special offer they were doing on the supply of new rails was ended so no joy there.  Incidentally, I had to ask Birmingham 3 times before I got a reply.  Eventually, I bought my long rails and the cross bars from Lexus Spares Direct ie, Lexus Swindon.  They too have now advised some members, including me, that they have now reduced discount they are giving for non trade. The ref given on invoice was L08301-48800 for the long rails.

    The long rails supplied came with the longer bolts needed along with other trim parts and new gaskets.  This is a known source of leaks into the cabin so retrofitting should be done with care.  Fitting instructions were in diagrammatic form.  Unfortunately, I can't find my instructions but I recall they were for post 2008.

    The cross bars were for model year 2009 RX450h and RX350 and the reference given LPZ403-K0622-00 which also appears on the diagrammatic instruction manual  ref number AIM 001 259-1 

    The safety note with the cross bars states that the maximum rack load is 80KG/176 lbs, dead weight of the roof rack, approx 5KG.  The maximum rack load is made up of the dead weight of the roof rack, the accessories and the load.  There is also a warning  about retightening bolts and straps at regular intervals.                                                                                                                   

    Thank you Barry.  You have just given me a strong clue to where water ingress may be interfering with the operation of my power tailgate.

  4. 2 minutes ago, Phil xxkr said:

    In my case the boot opened from the dash button but not from the fob. Manual push switch worked but was really heavy to lift. Looking at the struts there was evidence of corrosion so I bought 2 from SGS Derby. At £70 not too much of a risk, took 5 minutes to swap and since then all 3 methods work perfectly, 

    Struts on mine are fine Phil.  It's been an electrical problem, the cargo lights show that.  I also tested the tailgate switch with my multimeter too.  In some ways I wish it was just the struts.

  5. ** UPDATE **

    My tailgate hasn't worked since the beginning of January, I've been accessing the boot area via the driver side rear door and over the rear seats.  This morning I went shopping and used the release on the tailgate above the number plate to open the car  doors and unloaded my trolley via the rear passenger door as usual.  I needed to visit another shop so went to lock up again using the dimple on the driver's door...nothing happened.  I tried locking with the key fob button...nothing.  To my total surprise, the tailgate had released when I unlocked the doors and so this was stopping the locking of the car.  The tailgate lifted manually and I noticed the cargo lights were illuminated too.  I closed it using the close button on the tailgate, then tried the button by the steering wheel and it beeped and opened the tailgate.  All was back to normal :yahoo:

    Earlier in the thread, I think it was Mike who suggested the problem was due to temperature.  Don't think this was the case as it was a chilly 3 degrees C this morning.  All I can think of is water ingress somewhere has caused my problem and the summer-like temperatures we had last week have dried it.

    I've read many recent threads here about similar tailgate problems, from memory I think they all originated after the auxiliary Battery losing its charge.  So, maybe water ingress isn't the problem and it's an electrical gremlin that's self-healed...is that possible ?

    I'm just very glad that I didn't throw wads of cash at the problem.  It will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, Kate2140 said:

    We charged up our aux battery, still nothing. So this wasn’t our issue. 

    Maybe I didn't word it correctly Kate.  What I mean is that the Battery going flat in the first place is the trigger for the problem.  I charged mine and eventually replaced my auxiliary Battery.  I still have the problem.

    I think the common denominator between all here with the problem is that it started with a flat Battery first of all.

    • Like 1
  7. 15 minutes ago, Herbie said:

    Yes please, that would be very helpful.

    This is where I'm skeptical. One motor failure, ok; two, maybe - but more than half a dozen? I really don't know.

    Of course, it could be right but why are they failing and what's the correlation to the luggage area lights not working?

    I'm with you on this Herbs, I don't accept the failure of multiple motors simultaneously.  Similarly, I don't see failure of all the switch mechanisms on the vehicle simultaneously.  In my intermittent thread, I report that I prised the lowering switch from the underside of the tailgate.  There are only two wires going to this switch and the circuit should always be live...it was dead !  The common factor that I see is a flat auxiliary Battery to trigger the tailgate failures.  I guess that the LOC has a small percentage of all RX owners, I wonder how many there are UK wide ?  Is this a "not fit for purpose" issue for Lexus to address ? 

    • Like 1
  8. No, not fixed it Tom.  It wasn't intermittent for long, it hasn't worked for many weeks now.  It does seem like a plague and I read the posts on the other threads.

    I prised out the switch on the underside for closing the tailgate.  Like the dashboard switch, this should always work irrespective of the engine being powered or not.  This switch just has two wires (flimsy, not cables) going to it.  My multimeter showed it to be dead.  The handbook shows a 30amp fuse for the PBD, but there's just a long, green block there instead of the individual fuses depicted.

    I'll continue watching here in case a solution is forthcoming.  Otherwise, I'll take it to a local auto-electrician who my neighbour recommends.  It's not too much of an inconvenience at the moment, but it will become increasingly important as our freedom slowly returns.

  9. About 15 years ago I had a Mitsubishi Pajero imported from Japan.  It had all the tv bits and bobs with it.  Trouble is that the TV signals in Japan are broadcast in a different frequency band than in the UK so the tuner wasn't equipped to tune UK channels.  I'm going from memory, but I think that's correct.

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