catnap

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About catnap

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  • First Name
    Phil

Profile Information

  • Lexus Model
    IS 300 SportCross
  • Year of Lexus
    2002
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Sussex
  1. Does yours get worse with more people in the car? That's something I've noticed.
  2. I think there's a clue in the suspension relaxing and the noise coming back gradually. I don't know how a balljoint could do this. When I swapped my shock/coil spring assemblies to 2nd-hand units the noise did go away for a few days then very gradually came back. I'm at a loss to explain how this happens. I don't think a bound-up bushing would take that long to start moving and make noise. There's a mechanic in my town I've used a few times- he's very good but broke his wrist recently so he's been out of action. I'll find out when he's back working and see if he can fit me in sometime. Frustrating!
  3. Okay, so what changes when the suspension is relaxed? Upper control arm bushes Lower control arm bushes (no.2 for me is unlikely as I have poly bushes here and it didn't change anything. No.1- maybe?) Shock Spring Top mount I mean that's pretty much it, isn't it? So it should be one of those things, unless I'm missing something. I'm tempted to pull the upper arms and check the ball joint (checked with wheel on ground using a pole under the tyre, no movement), and then look to replace those two bushes with poly (StrongFlex). After that I don't see how it could be anything but shocks/top mounts. Someone with more knowledge should probably chime in though as I'm bound to have missed something!
  4. Once you get rid of it, even for a day, it's glorious.
  5. Will do, though it's on hold at the moment, two reasons. 1. Both places on eBay plus another tools company are out of stock and all orders got cancelled. I don't want to use the cheap "claw" type compressors as they break people's jaws all the time. 2. I'm getting a popping/clunking noise today and yesterday, which last time was the pads not being greased enough/correctly. I just had the wheel bearing changed and I wonder if they cleaned things up while they were in there. However, the new noise does sound a lot like my clunk. Same pitch, area of the noise, metal-on-metal stuff. So I'm back to looking at the caliper/bracket/slides again. I wonder if this has been my issue all along?
  6. No change to my problem. I've bought a decent (Neilsen Ct3611, significantly less chance of killing me) set of spring compressors and I'll be taking my spare/old shocks apart to see what condition the shock and top mount are in. If I find any problems that could cause the noise I'll report back.
  7. That sounds ideal- I'm sure that rig can reproduce the noise.
  8. Warped Hubs?

    Good to know, glad you're getting somewhere with yours. Quick update from me too- I've managed to fix my brake wobble without spending any money. I took the caliper carrier off and sanded the slider pin bores, by using a tight roll of sandpaper (pencil thickness) shoved into a cordless drill and then spun inside the hole while moving it around a bit. This sanded the inside surfaces of the bores, and then they were cleaned out with brake clean. I then re-lubricated the sliders with this stuff (sadly no longer available from that seller) which is the correct Lexus-specified grease (lithium glycol soap-based) for slider pins. Put everything back together and after a week or two of normal braking, the wobble has gone. I believe the bores were slightly dragging on the slider pins which causes uneven pad application on the disc, which leaves uneven deposits on the brake disc and then makes it feel like the disc is warped. Thoroughly cleaning the bores out so the pins can move freely has helped a lot, and the deposits I assume have been removed from the disc through normal use. I believe my discs have a tiny bit of runout anyway so I might slap some new ones at some point but everything's good for now so I'll probably just leave it alone. Hope this helps someone.
  9. Interesting. How do you know which places will have these ATL things? Is it a mechanical device that'll shake the car like it was being driven? Because that could be very useful if so.
  10. No no, nothing deceptive like that. It's a bit like checking your indicator fluid and your exhaust bearings. You've gotta keep those working properly and/or topped up.
  11. That he is! Might be worth asking him to check the engine mounts too, someone else mentioned that to me but I'm not so sure about those.
  12. Don't forget there's two - the bendy LCA is the no.2 which is a common failure point, but no.1 attaches to the lower ball joint under the knuckle. That's got a large bush at the back of it and if that's torn or disintegrated it could cause no.1 LCA to hit the chassis. Getting no.1 off isn't difficult from what I can see but I haven't had the time.
  13. Yeah I did- I don't have the same marks though. Certainly weird if the tyre isn't rubbing in that spot!
  14. I would say any evidence of suspension components that are worn enough to make grinding/clunking noises (like bushes), or witness marks from things hitting other things. I'm convinced it's coming from around the top of the wheel arch (i.e. maybe upper ball joint) but without taking the upper arm off and inspecting the balljoint it's really hard to say.
  15. I wonder if it's the no. 1 lower control arm bushing, allowing it to move too much and contacting the frame of the car. There's also two large bushes on the upper control arm. Short of getting a bunch of spare parts and changing the lot over, the only real option is to pay someone to take the front end apart and check everything manually, not just with a prybar. It was bliss when I swapped the shocks over and drove around for a few days without noise... Definitely not antiroll bar by the way, I disconnected it entirely and drove around a car park- noise still there. Got OEM year-old lower ball joints, poly LCA, ARB and steering rack bushes- nothing touched it. Steering rack bushes were worth it though, definitely tighter.