catnap

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About catnap

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Phil
  • Lexus Model
    IS 300 SportCross
  • Year of Lexus
    2002
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Sussex

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  1. Agreed, not sure it's top mount. I've got the shocks that were on the car, in my garage- replaced with 60k mile units from a breaker to try and stop the noise. I've had them to bits and the top mounts look totally fine- rubber's not split, no witness marks, nothing.
  2. The top of the shock absorber pokes through the top mount. If you unscrew it, it's still under compression, but it's now dangerous. If you loosen the absorber it's not going anywhere because the weight of the car is compressing it. There's no way to do what you're talking about.
  3. How do you still have warranty? 😲
  4. I don't think that will work, the weight of the car pushing on the shock will simply push it back up instantly when you lower the car down. There's a tremendous amount of force on these components- anything you do like this would be undone. Though perhaps I'm mis-understanding?
  5. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    New discs and pads fitted, every single brake component checked, cleaned and lubricated. So far everything's top-notch and it feels fantastic- will report back after 1k miles or similar.
  6. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    Yeah this is what I always do and by the end the car will stand on its nose. But I'm thinking I should take it easy for a bit (50-ish miles) this time as I will struggle to warranty another set of discs and pads- it'll be on me this time.
  7. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    Alright, I'll skip my usual procedure and go easy. Cheers
  8. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    New discs and pads in the boot. They were a bit funny about it, gave me a lecture about rust between the disc and hub but swapped them under their "No Quibble" thing. So, I have to ask. The leaflet for the Pagid discs says that you should go easy for 200-300km, and not try to bed-in the discs & pads. What have you guys been doing? Annoyingly, the Pagid website says this, so I don't know what to believe.
  9. catnap

    coil springs

    Perhaps it's set up with a higher load capacity? I'm reaching a bit here.
  10. catnap

    coil springs

    Interesting, they are different lengths for SX/Saloon - see attached. That would explain my rear suspension oddity too!
  11. catnap

    coil springs

    Good question. I noticed my Sportcross has an odd-sized wheel arch gap on the o/s rear the other day, and wondered why. The shock has been replaced at some point, it's not OEM. So I have to wonder if they used the wrong spring. Are you saying the Sportcross has shorter springs than the saloon?
  12. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    Pagid. The n/s definitely had more runout with the old hub but after swapping it's barely anything. The o/s just had a loose rattly bearing so I figured I'd change it as well- and in the week of driving between the two hubs I noticed the shudder was still there and not going away. So I figure something's up with the discs. I marked the high spot on the disc with a paint pen (measured using a DTI- 0.03-0.04mm which is just over spec of 0.035) and the high spot stays in the same place on the disc when rotating the disc on the studs to the next set of holes, if that makes sense. So I figured there's something up with the disc and I've got an RMA number with ECP to swap them tomorrow. I know they're difficult about having the original paper invoice so I hope I can find it.
  13. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    Ok, I've got the old discs and pads in the garage so I'll put those back on for now, warranty through ECP and put new ones on. I really hope the problem doesn't return.
  14. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    Both hubs are now on- o/s has a better bearing than it did but it's not as solid as n/s. It should last a while. However, the brake pulsation is still there. I'm warrantying the discs & pads with ECP as there appears to be a high spot in the disc which stays still when the disc is clocked on the studs. Hopefully this means the disc itself has a problem and not the 'new' hub. I've also seen shims available on Rock Auto which can correct up to a certain amount of runout so I might try one of those too. Very frustrating. I just want this to be over and done with now, I've been battling this for far too long. Am I right in thinking that you must replace the discs when changing the hub, that they won't 'self-correct' over time?
  15. catnap

    Warped Hubs?

    I might be imagining things, but after having the upper ball joint loose from the spindle and then re-torquing it, I'd swear the noise from the front n/s is less. I'll have a really good look at the o/s UBJ when I get the driver's side hub replaced. It's a pain to change because the ball joint spins as you try and tighten it so I had to jack up the spindle from underneath to put pressure on it. Past that, I'll be damned if I can figure it out. I might get my flatmate to help me look at the engine mounts. As mine's an auto, I can get him to stand on the brakes while in Drive and rev it, and I can watch as the engine tries to rotate on the mounts. I do notice mine will do it if I floor it from a standstill- as the back squats and the front raises up, there's the click/knock from both sides. Maybe that's a clue.