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Linas.P last won the day on April 1

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About Linas.P

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    Club Post Guru

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  • First Name
  • Lexus Model
    IS 250 SE-L
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. When lowering you should consider whenever you have automatic headlights adjustment issues first (if fitted on your car). Overall, if you want to keep the car still derivable the only option is to go for coilovers with adjustable spring rates. I personally do not find car overly soft or "floaty" on the road even on original suspension, so only reason to change would be lowering.. So my suggestion would be: 0. consider different car, because IS250 is not worth it e.g. IS350 you could at least say "now suspension meets performance". IS250 is generally not fast car, so throwing major money on suspension upgrade is kind of pointless (just my opinion obviously). go for 18" wheels to get rid of slack in tire wall, maybe overall different tyres with stiffer side wall even on 17" upgrade anti-roll bars first if you feel it rolls too much go for coilovers (consider adjusting headlight sensor) DO NOT use lowering springs on standard shocks - that will ruin it! ohhh and good luck finding any parts in UK! Most will have to be imported from US (e.g. ARB and coils).
  2. Those on eBay are, your ones seems to be in good order - if I can see right in the pictures there are few scratches only? I would be interested myself, but the problem is that I have 3 sets of wheels at the moment and Lexus wheels are not easy to get rid of... So I would only be interested in swap 2 for one or 3 for one 😄
  3. And considering Lexus interior is outright appalling for luxury car I doubt there is any actual difference except of the badge. + Toyota as well have Android/apple integration... well at least my rental Auris had it, so why not Camry. At the moment it seems that Camry page is just placeholder, but I am sure that when car becomes "properly" available, one will be able to match ES spec very closely.
  4. These popped-up for sale, at first seems like good deal, but then I realised 2 of the wheels are buckled. Overall repairable, but I would not expect to pay more than £200, because effectively you getting 2 wheels and other 2 are worth just as much as it costs to repair them properly. Much better option:
  5. I am not aware there is a way to disable it, but as mentioned above it is very unlikely to cause start problems. Diesel especially needs high current to start, so most likely you need to check you battery voltage etc. Same happened to me in the past - if you lucky enough to start the engine car will run smoothly. One tip, press start stop button without pressing the brake (not sure if that is how it works on manual) so that all electrical bits can start first e.g. mirrors opens up, steering wheel moves to position etc. And only then press brake/start button to start the car. What I noticed, when you have battery on the way out it usually doesn't have enough power to do everything at once and then fails to start engine. Sometimes you only have 1 shot to start and so better not to waste it. Second tip, try to turn off as much possible electrical systems before you turn off the engine e.g. heated seats (particularly), radio, climate control, auto-headlights. When you come to start it then, you pretty much only starting the engine and it requires less power to start. I don't think there is a way to turn off auto tilting steering wheel if you have one fitted, but then follow what I said in tip 1.
  6. Out of 3 SUVs, RX has best materials e.g. soft leather door trim, but overall NX interior was most attractive for me for some reason, overall layout more modern, controls more accessible. However, overall none of new cars felt like Lexus... Toyota RAV4 perhaps.
  7. Yes, my pump failed and I replaced it myself, see more details here:
  8. You might be unlucky, but in the other hand mine had higher then average miles and lower than average price - however I have picked it up based on condition and not what the paper or odometer said. Everything sales guy said added-up, he said car is priced low because of the miles and cosmetic condition, but it was driven mainly on motorway and in good shape. I looked to the car and indeed - it was sandblasted with stone chips indicating motorway driving and services were done kind of on the high miles ~12-14k miles. Makes sense motorway driven car, many easy miles, stone chips indicating the same, but when I drove it - run very smooth. Over 5 years now and 60k extra miles, car never hand any major problem. The only real fault was A/C compressor... that is all. At 182k miles replaced anti-roll bar links, failed MOT because of silly rubber seal which have tiny hole in it. Generally, I am surprised when people go after very low mile cars - either they sat on drive way (not good) or had hard city life (even worse), short journeys, start stop traffic on broken roads, speed bumps etc. Low miles doesn't make good cars, you still need to check condition carefully. I would pick-up hyper mile motorway car any day over ultra low miles city car, but in either case condition is what matters, not the miles themselves.
  9. Not sure what was the price, but it should have been very low for this to be attractive offer when straight cars of similar age spec sells for under £2000. The damage it self was minimal - I am not sure where you see suspension damage, even wheel arch was not touched, so how the suspension got damaged?! I would be more worried about B pillar, but it seems like it was scraped against something rather than heavily hit, that said 2 doors to bolt on and car is fixed. Could be few little slightly trickier bits, like pulled out screw holes etc, but that is fairly simple hammer + welder job. It is kind of stupid this car was Cat-S, If that would have been my car I would have appealed insurance decision, because S stands for "structural damage" - there are no structural damage on this car. Insurance companies should stop pretending they understand about the cars, or simply give categories based on the price vs. repair value. Fair enough - car could be uneconomical repair due to its market price being low, but that doesn't make it cat-S. Non-structural damage like this should be cat-N.
  10. In other hand Lexus infotainment is really very bad... for person who doesn't care about it, I understand it might not be an issue, but for person who does care - it is major irritation. I take it would have been unfair comparison with M850i, hence they compared with 840d... Lexus strong points are build quality, reliability.. no point are given for exclusivity and weak points are driving dynamics. As for comparison with diesel I have already pointed out somewhere else my surprise that Lexus hybrids are still being compared with diesels (I thought we got over the diesels in this country?!). I think overall motoring press compares the cars "as is now", they do not care Lexus will be reliable for next 10 years, or that leather and other finishes will be as fresh after 200k miles... today and now BMW is more exciting to drive and more practical. Hence it wins and Lexus looses. I would not call it lazy approach, or bias, or predictability, lack of advertising budget for Lexus.. more likely shortsightedness of reporter, kind of skimming over the top report, emotionally driven and probably not good quality consumer advise overall.
  11. Look... I am just saying - if you are doing something, do it right. He made disservice for RC-F by claiming the acceleration it cannot achieve and at the same time failing to eliminate basic errors. For me it is like those unrealistic adverts which actually deters you from the product instead making you more likely to buy-it... just irritating...
  12. It looks like E63, because it is E63 in that shot.. even hood proves that... however that car is not capable 0-60 in 3.2s. it is 3.5, E63 S is 3.4 for 0-62... converted to 0-60 that is 3.4s and 3.3s. Going further - there is Godzilla with 2.8s...
  13. Hence my comment about decimal places in 0-60 times, as said before - it makes a difference if it is 4s or 5s, but when difference gets to 0.1s or 0.04s (like 3.96s quoted for new RC-F).. who cares really. doesn't do 0-60 in 3.2s even E63 S doesn't do it.