Aircheese

Back to the topic.. Just test the CDS fuse with A/C on. It didnt drain more power than A/C off. When I unplugged the CDS fuse, radiator fans is still working. So I assume if the fuse indeed controlling A/C, it might be the condensor fans only. I didnt have enough time to test the A/C. Maybe the temperature is too cold for AC to "condense". I think I will keep the fuse off during the lockdown when the car is parked. Further investigation will not be necessary until the weather getting warmer again. This show a different circuit than this previous post. Which I agree because the 10A is too small for the large radiator fan.

I almost compared every insurance company i can find onlin/offline. Black box always are the cheapest ones. Giving 20~30% cheaper, i.e. ~£400 cheaper in my case, Admiral blackbox vs Admiral. I am thoes who dont really think they will use the black box to "listen" or "spying" my personal info because I know the device very well since i am an eletronic engineer. I also happy to have a "invisible" car tracker for free 🙂 Although I am yong, I am not addicted to the gas paddle, but the smooth transmission, silence, comfort and the leather sofa ... that Lexus provided. We just had a second rounds to NC500 last summer, that was the best time in 2020. That is also why I dont mind whether the black box will record my speeding.. it is very rare I did. Long story: I brought IS220D when i was a student (<25yo), switched to IS250 a year half later, but have not changed the insurance company. The first qoute was ~£1100 for (10months, a term), but they later called back and asked for £1600 because my license just upgraded to manual (was automatic for 1.5y). But i argued that i already mentioned it when in the call. So the first term ended up at £1100. while other company asked for ~£1900 After that, when each term ends, they gave a qoute similar the the previous year, i.e. £1100 for the second term. I called their "cancelling department" at every renewal, to negotiate the price. The best price is always at 80% of the original renewal price. Now this is the sixth term I with them, and this term cost £250, even less than the road tax, despite I claimed for a windshield last year replacement which cost them ~£500. To be honest, I am quite happy with them. 😆 I can just disable it because the car is nolonger in the black box policy. There is a minimum premium £600 to be able to use. It drain very little power when the service was activated. After they stop the service, the tracker keep searching for network which drains more power. Bell is also an Admiral's group company. Bell's black box is much better than others who require to install it in the car. It only require people to plug in for 3 months, and it doesnt drains power after the car switch off (exception for some BMW)

Just pull out the Fan Relay No. 3. However, the current is still on CDS fuse. The relay was tested fine. The CDS is surely not connected the the relay directly . Also, the diagram marked on the fuse box is different from what I see in the manual I have (Fan Relay No3 is the same). I will live with that ~0.1A drain now untill i can find more info rekated to the CDS fuse. Next time I will test the current on CDS when AC on to see if it does supply the power to the fans.

Thank you both, I will check them next time. The weather doesnt looks good here in the next few days. 😆

Thanks, to build the device requires some basic electronic knowledge and some basic programming skills. I am using one of the STM32's development board to record the data. The measurement circuit is a basic voltage divider consists of 2 resistors, scaling down the battery voltage ~14V to microcontroller's voltage 3.3V or 5V. Then program the microcontroller to measure the voltage by its ADC (analog-digital converter). Then the data is recorded to micro SD card. I sample the voltage 10 times every second for 2 days (the battery for the recorder only last that long.) It might sound complicated, but it is really simple once you learn some tutorials. I would recommend starting with Arduino, it has all the required functions, ADC and SD card, and it is really easy to use if you want to build one.

Thanks for the info, I just found the CDS in the manual in another separated pdf document. But still i couldnt locat it in eletrical diagram. It is indeed related to a fan but i am quite confused between condenser fans vs radiator fans. Looks like the CDS supply the current.

Hi, I am trying to solve my is250 2006's battery draining issues for a few months. The drain comes first at around 0.15A. After I located my insurancer's black box and disconnected. (the box has been deactivated). The drains now comes to ~0.1A, where the thing becomes awkward. Battery changed, i can just live with it but it's still something there. I checked every fuses by measuring the voltage drop inside the cabinet, everything was calm beside the keyless ignition, which is expected. I even built a device to measure the voltage across many hours. (The little spikes are cause by the device itself. The device was supplided with its own power source) Data recording started at around 11pm after the engine off for 4 hours. Lower voltage means higher current. In the second graph, the curve is probably because of the temperature changing overnight. An interesting finding is that the car will finally go rest after ~10mins (0.15 hours). Today, I finally decided to check the drain again. I was quite worry that the drain casued by the alternator which changing it will be a huge work for me. After some investigation, the source of parasitic draining finally came to the CDS fuse located in the engine bay. Close the door for ~3 mins, 0.33A. Most of the current is from MPX-B. This current draining is ok. When the computer was down (After 10 mins). With CDS fuse on, the current is ~ 0.1A. Before pulling out the fuse, I also measured the voltage drop on the CDS fuse (0.4mV), it comfirmed that the current through this fuse was around 50~60mA according to https://www.powerprobetek.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/fuse-charts.pdf When I pulled out the CDS fuse. The current droped to ~20mA. Which is the ideal drains for a normal car (<35mA). Unfortunately, I cannot find a good infomation about the CDS fuse, and I have no idea which system is relying on it so I didnt start the car with the fused unplugged. It is really frustrating, that my maintanance manual may be for Amarican version which dose NOT have the correct fuse diagram/description with CDS. Does anyone know what is this CDS fuse for?

Background: Having been like this since I brought the car back in 2017. Didnt realise that untill currently battery flatten and changed. I change the battery in 2018 with the Bosch S4, which is an decent one. It was flatten a few month ago (April 2020) due to not driving for 2 weeks during the first lockdown. Found a parasitic drain at around 0.15A but i couldnt locate the drains. In Oct 2020, the battery is flatten again and I decide to change a new one. Beside the drain, I also measure the capacity of the 2 year old Bosh S4, which can only hold 20Ah now (marked 70Ah). It indicates that during the 2 year, the battery has been draining so much from time to time. (Pb battery will lose capacity very quickly if it always be used > 50% of its capacity) After that I start to investigate again for the parasitic drain. The first thought was my insurance black box, I found it and unplugged it. Drains from MPX-B: Then I measure the parasity current. It is 0.23A, whith most of them throught MPX-B fuse in the engine bay. Beside the current, I also measure and record the voltage changes in 24 hour, which change from 12.45 to 12.3V. All voltage measuremnet were taken after the car was sit for a day, and door lock for 3 min, so it is pretty accurate. 0.15V change means around 10% battery capacity which is 7Ah. 0.23 x 24 = 5.52Ah. So I can prove that the 0.23A is continually draining by something when I (the key) was not around. But the MPX-B fuse leads to a massive problem, it provide the power to many ECUs, which is so difficult to locate. I assume one of the sensor is preventing one of the ECU to go to sleep so to cause the 0.23A drain. Lucky, my friend has drop me the repair manual (DVD) for the car. Here are some screenshots from it. But still checking every ECU is an nightmare to me becasue I living in a flat and cannot bring my PC to the car. Last night i notice my glove box's ligth wont turn off when I close it. But it dose turn off when I stop the car. Is there a sensor to detect the whether the glove box is closed? The light is LED so if there isnt a sensor, I am ok with it. The previous owner has change most of the lights to LED including the trunk's light, door lights, and the rear dome light. Not sure they can cause the issue becasue none of them light up when they shouldnt. Do you guys have any experience fining the MPX-B related parasitic draining? MPX-diagrams.pdf

Good to know. I might wait for 10 min next time.

possible. I will test without the key around next time

Thanks for your reply. It kept raining here in Southampton. I only got a chance to test an hour ago. It turns out the problem is on my dashcam voltage converter plugging on OBD port, taking additional 0.1A more on top of the "asleep" current 0.15A (door close, car unlocked). Both together drain a 0.25A in total. My 70Ah battery can only last 280 hours at that current. But I have not started my car for 2 weeks, 336hours, more than enough for the battery to be flatten. The current measurement I did yesterday was wrong because I have to open my car's door to do the fuse test. When doors opened, the car will take around 1.9 ~ 2.4A. The current will drop in many steps during 20-30seconds after closing the doors. Will finally reach 0.15A. I think 0.15A is acceptable now, even it is still larger than what Herbie mentioned 30-50mA. as long as it isnt 1.8A which could burn my car... I didnt test the current in fully asleep mode(car locked). But i will measure the voltage every day for a week to see if the voltage is still dropping too much. 1 min video to shows the current change while opening/closing the door https://photos.app.goo.gl/NKWuAXiqKvdfR21L8

My car is IS250 2006 I found my car battery flatten on a weeks ago. After charged, I monitored the battery voltage everyday. It kept draining all the time. Today I just got a multimeter with 10 A current measurement capability. I measured the current in idle, car locked, all switch off, including my dashcam. Still got a idle current at 1.8A. which is reasonable for my estimation per voltage drop. I believe this is also the correct number during nights. I have check 4 out of 5 fuse box. pull out then plug in to see if the current changed. But not them. 2 out of 3 in engine room and 2 out of 2 in carbin. I wasnt able to located the box2 in engine room untill i got back home and check the manual. will test it tomorrow. below is the schematic for box 2. they are more for lights The battery is fine, i believe there is no issue with battery (tested charging/idle voltage and current, and i use the current to estimate its capabity, not seeing any issue.) Have anyone dignois similar issues like the one i am facing? any experienece will help. Thanks,

Hi, I have owned an is250 for 3 years and 1 year for is220d previously. Recent months, my wife starts to complain about the air comes from her side is always lower than my side (driver side). I can confirm she is right. Symptoms: From a cold start until the temperature is up to a certain level, the vents are blowing the same temperature. Once the car is up, the vent from her side starts to blow colder air than my side. (The aircon is in sync mode, same temperature setting for both zone. 21-23 degrees are our normal setting for winter) Even in “dual zone mode” with her zone set up 2~3 degree than my side, her side is still lower than mine. My thought: I can confirm that the engine coolant is up to the right level. And the symptom dont really seems to relate to the coolant or blocking pipes. Because the heating is always strong once the engine starts to warm up and it is same with my experience. The only issue troubling me is the uneven heating. I think it might be something wrong with the cabinet temperature sensors, my side or her side. Do you know where are these temperature sensors located? or any experience with these kinds of issues?

Thank you Shahpor, The reading is not an average num; it dose go up and down a little bit. You might use the live data plotting to see the average value. I didnt know at that time that I could reduce the num of data to increase the data update rate.(which is about 20 seconds in my screenshots, shows on the bottom bar of the TIS) I would say before the DPF regen, it's 0.7 to 2.5 at idle and around 10 at 2krpm. Both nums after regen are near 0. You could check this for the data after regen: I dont think I did regen successfully by using TIS. Because I was the one to control throttle, which shouldnt be me. I saw some video on youtube today and their TIS could even start-up the engine. Please post also share if you know exactly how to make it run. I dont know what will happen after it is finished cause, at that time, I dont think it ran correctly. Regards,

I recently received the Techstream which I brought from ebay 2 month ago for checking the Block percentage of DPF. “Luckily”, my DPF problems happened again (the 3th times in 7400 mil) and I recorded the data before and after the DPF regeneration using the TS. The TS dose show more data compared to cheap EM327 OBD2 scanner. An it dose provide DPF regeneration function that you might simply sit still and rev the engine to regen without dangerously stop-start driving on motorway. So, I wanna share with you guys. In the NEXT TWO screenshots below, please pay attention to the “0” column and "DPF PM BLOCK" row. The ECU saved the P2002 error with last 3 data, the time error occur data and 1 data followed. These 2 screenshots record the data at when the DPF block error occured. After checked up the ERROR code P2002, I start to looking for some data to show the available capacity of DPF. On other cars, it would be shown as percentage like "150% full". But I failed to find it. The only data I could check is the DPF differential pressure, which also shown on upper 2 screen shot. The differential pressure is also the source that ECU tells how much the DPF is blocked. The data highlighted in screenshot below is the DPF differential pressure. This screenshot was taken at I was just going to start DPF regen. Throttle in IDLE, you can tell by looking in Engine speed. This screenshot below was taken when I just started to regen. After I switched on the regen, one data related to DPF regen change, which is the After Injection Period. I think it means that the engine is actually started to heat up the exhaust gas. But I didn't notice when I took the screenshot. As the requirements (tank not overfull, rev at 1750 to 2750, coolant above 75 Celsius, shown in the TS when selected the regen test. but not shown in the screenshot) of regen process, the car was sitting still and gearbox in neutral with engine revved at around 2000 rpm. (Is the throttle not controller by TS? I had to press the pedal by myself). You can see that the differential pressure going all the way up to 11kpa (110mbar) when the engine revved at 2200rpm. I kep the throttle at around 2000 rpm for about 5 minute. (The regen was acutrally works but I didnt notice at the time. So I doubted that the regen dosent works. I stopped it and decided to have a motorway run) The screenshot was taken several minutes after I started regen( you can see on the engine running time.) It actually improved by seeing the differential pressure 8.9kpa compared to 11kpa (2 minutes ago). After I went on the M1, the car did enter limp mode a few mils at 3rd & 60mph. But never enter limp again. The process time is much much shorter than previous times (10 stop-start period) Then I cleaned the error by OBD2 scanner. Here are the screenshot after all the works, please take attention on the DPF differential pressure The engine was on idle. These 2 were on 2000 rpm The diff pressure which is much lower than which before the DPF regeneration. I can feel each time after the DPF regen, the car throttle respond is improved. I do record the time that DPF problem occurred and the additive I added. I post it out as a reference. It looks like the DPF problem happens to me every 3000 mil. The recent time mileage is 107400. The regen test looks like this. The description is in Chinese but nothing important in it. My driving style is already change a lot from last time, always 5th@70mph, 6th@above 75mph. EGR cleaned and exhaust recircle error is always very low (0~10%). I still dont know how can I fix the DPF problem. i didnt try to update my ECU since the car was last serviced in lexus centre in 2010, the ECU might be out dated. I have call lexus and hope to get my ecu update soon. By the way, the TS does have a ECU upgrade function, maybe I can do it myself but I want to try lexus centre first. Does any one know the cost of ECU upgrade? The check with TS every several hundreds mils might help me to monitoring the DPF and tell me when add DPF cleaner.

Thanks! I would check with dealer first if they are free to provide these information. Thanks sharing your experiences! I had this car for only a few month but the dpf problem happend twice; the 2nd time happended while I was driving for 200mil on M1 after heavy traffic on M25. My driving is mostly motorway but my driving style was so bad between 1st and 2nd dpf problems. I drove 6th around 70mph on clock. Which I believe the while the engine is straggling, the combustion performed poorly with too much paticulates. After the 2nd time, I do change my driving style, keep the engine away from straggling all the time. I could feel that by sitting my hand on the shifter. But I dont know how much my driving style helps the dpf regeneration or reduce the generation of paticulates. It's sooo horrible when the limp mode happended on motorway and I dont want it happend again.. I would check for the update of ECU with dealer first and buy the TechStream later. My car is 10 years old and last dealer service in 2010. It's worth to be upgraded anyway.

Thanks! I would check with dealer first if they are free to provide these information. Thanks sharing your experiences! I had this car for only a few month but the dpf problem happend twice; the 2nd time happended while I was driving for 200mil on M1 after heavy traffic on M25. My driving is mostly motorway but my driving style was so bad between 1st and 2nd dpf problems. I drove 6th around 70mph on clock. Which I believe the while the engine is straggling, the combustion performed poorly with too much paticulates. After the 2nd time, I do change my driving style, keep the engine away from straggling all the time. I could feel that by sitting my hand on the shifter. But I dont know how much my driving style helps the dpf regeneration or reduce the generation of paticulates. It's sooo horrible when the limp mode happended on motorway and I dont want it happend again.. I would check for the update of ECU with dealer first and buy the TechStream later. My car is 10 years old and last dealer service in 2010. It's worth to be upgraded anyway.

Hi all, Having experienced 2 times of dpf problem. Is there a way to monitor the exhaust pressure of the DPF? Since the car has no indicator of “the dpf is almost full” but only have check vsc and then limp home immediately. I want to know how my driving style related to it. If I know how it's clogged, then I could add additives or change my driving style to avoid the limp mode. There is a differential air pressure sensor under the hull but how can I monitor it? I have a bluetooth OBD2 scanner but I couldnt find the valid pressure data in it. Is there any solutions? Kind regards,

Just passed 10 year limit. I am crying in the corner.

Thanks guys, I decided to change my driving styles. I tried 5th @ 50~70mph today; it looks not bad. I still got 44mpg compared to 47mpg 6th@70~80mph. I did some research on other cars (VW, Volvo ..) , some owners tried to wrap exhaust with heatshield but it probably wont work. I think I am better to exchange for is250 next year. At lease, my friend still got 44mpg on his is250 if he drive carefully to keep the torque converter looked Thanks, I cleaned the EGR last time. It seems haven't been cleaned before till I did (no scratched on nuts). It's full of carbon but still got a good airflow and working properly. I would keep wynns in my trunk.. If it happen next time, I will try the Birmingham specialist

Hi everyone, I have been suffered from the DPF problem during months. I brought the SE-L in April 2016 with clock 100k mils. It came out the first time with my hard accelerating with the car in May. DPF was regenerated after I added the Wynns DPF cleaner and drove for 50mils on M1. It was a hard time, with many times of stop-start on hard shoulde.. After that, I didnt add any additives till now 15/09/2016 and the same problem shows again in the congesting M25. The OCD added additional 3000 mils (80% motorway driving, normally 6th & 70mph) since the last DPF treatment. (I found that the Wynn's is required every 3rd tank in the instructions) I did the same way as before, and it is now working well as last time. I also notice the improvement of my feeling in engine and the turbo lap. I think the DPF is mainly blocked. I am planning to add the Wynn's in the next few tanks then 3rd tank as it suggest in the instruction. I also think about the reasons of it. As my driving is mostly motorway, it's very weird that I still suffering from the DPF problem. After I solved the problem, I start to looking in the data that read from OBD2. I found that the fuel consumption is actually not very high in motorway count in Liter/hour (under 10L/h, unless during my regeneration 3rd gear/60mph is 25L/hours). There wasn't much heat generated during the motorway driving (6th gear). Not the least, the exhaust pipe is longer than my friends new mini SD, and the bottom of EGR is exposed underneath, which makes the heat radiate fast. What I want to do next is using exhaust heatshield to cover all the pipe after turbo and all the DPF. I dont know how much it could help. The winter is coming. I hope it could keep the DPF warm enough. Please leave any suggestion & comments. BW,

Hi everyone, JUST had the same problem yesterday and got it fixed by myself today. Thanks for all the post upward! I had the light on when I tried very hard on my first test drive yesterday. (just got my licence upgrade to manual) Some conclusion: First of all, DO NOT think that the DPF is blocked completetly, unless you can not get the engine run. Any running engine should be able to regenerate DPF. Try to do it, you won lose anything more. According to my search on google and this thread, all the DPF cleaner work on other diesel car should also work on the IS220D. The only bit is my is220 goes into limp mode which couldn't let us run on motoway. I also dont think that revving on nuetral with high rev will help. I did this in 3k~5k rpm for 30min, no help at all. Most of guideline recommend to run engine in high rev. They are right, high rev bring not only higher exhaust temperature, but also faster air flow. However, this is not working on IS, because IS will got into limp mode once you make the air flow fast. What I was thinking (after restart 10+ time on the hardshouldre) is the IS knows DPF is blocking by 2 air pressure sensor (located in the front of DPF and the back). Higher air flow will bring bigger air pressure difference ; bigger difference will easier being notice by ECU. Thenit decide to enter the limp mode. What I did is add Wynns DPF cleaner (coudnt buy BG244 locally but this also well reviewed) and go to the motoway, keep rev below 2000 rpm (5th on 60mph, 6th on70~80mph) and have a very long run (from Loughborough to London). I never have to pull over since I decide to run in low rev. I use a obd2 scanner to clear fault code after the first 30 mil, and it never comes out again. At the last 20mils of the trip, I tried 4th gear on 80mph, @3000rpm for at least 10 mils. No code shows up! (which it caused the fault everytime before), I also trid hard acceleration 1st & 2rd gear to 5k rpm, and nothing happened. So the DPF is regenerated more or less. I got 48 MPG thought the trip (200 mils) with most above 75mph @6th gear. Sorry for the language, I am not a English speaker. But I want to share with you :)