Upex

So, both lower ball joint things changed out. Steering a little off now, but is tighter and less knock over bumps, although it was not bad at all before.

Have found front offside calipers stuck though. Ecp, cp4l do not do it. Can have nearside front calipers for less than 100, but can't get a front offside at all.

Lexus just quoted me 300+

Tried calling rippon, no answer.

Where have you all had your calipers from?

Cheers Jon.

Think they did disconnect the 12v, as lost the windows, but soonroof and radio, trip etc remained.

Either way, done now and a shiny new y piece fitted lol. Car a bit quieter and I think a little better mpg, but that's only based on one journey.

Thanks

Sorry for another question, but just dawned on me that I'm not clued up as to the precautions needed before welding on the 450h.

She's having the exhaust y piece replaced tomorrow, and I want to ensure they don't cook anything in the process. Sure they know what they are doing, and say they did a 450h just a week ago (powerflow norwich), but I want to know what they should do, so I'm not stood waiting worrying.

I believe the traction Battery simply needs unplugging via the hole in boot orange connector. But is there anything else?

Also, having never disconnected the traction Battery, are they are events I'll encounter when reconnecting? Ie will I need to reset anything, enter codes etc. Keen to not be stuck there as didn't bring a code or know what to press etc.

Cheers all

I'm surprisesed it's not on the doors to. My 01 s class had soft close on all doors, was good as didn't have to slam doors or if you were too gentle closing, it pulled in for you properly so no having to open them again etc

Cheers John, for info, guidance and torque info.

Here's hoping I get the bits in time and it's an uneventful job lol

My old s class had flexible servicing to, and it seemed to work a joy. Watching the miles left vs driven was a joy, hoof it around and it dropped 2 or 3 miles, per mile. Steady motorway and you could get 2 miles covered per mile reduced from servicing. Likewise a day of stop starts took off more than covered by a good chunk.

And that was a 2001 car, but they ditched it and went to fixed service again, quoted to be for piece of mind and client comfort, although I suspect cash was a driver as most of the big cars were mile munchers.

Thanks for all the inputs folks.

John, haven't a clue where you found the torque settings, but very much appreciated now by me, and I'm sure many others in the future. I like the peace of mind they give, when I know I'm not likely to lose a bolt or break a bolt when steaming down the road!

Interesting comments regards the brake system. Will do the Battery disconnect and pump thing, as have an accumulator issue anyway, so that may kill or cure, and save my fingers! Why design such a complicated braking system, it's beyond me, but there you go.

Will bleed at a later date, have techstream, just need to build a power solution for my laptop, as only lasts about half hour as Battery knackard and i have no power in my garage! Lifes never as easy as it should be eh!

Cheers all

Cheers all, would appear the ball joints are separate, pointing up, vs down as I was expecting, thus the bits I've ordered, track rod ends, shouldn't be needed, just the bit John linked to.

Arse, more money!

Given that I'll not move the track rod end, just pop out the balls, assume tracking isn't as urgent, ie I can let current tyres scrub down and then do tracking worth new tyres?

Should have let garage do it lol, already spend 950 lol, blooming mot!

Good shout about key, nut not planning on changing fluid now, just the pads and disks. Will be getting fluid done in a little while once mot passed.

To release the rear handbrake shoes, is it a clockwise or counterclockwise turn on the adjuster, and is it the same on both sides? Had a few mares with these in the past, by not knowing which way to turn the bloody things.

Also, anyone got a clue regards torque specs, keen to not knackar my new rear struts!

Folks, anyone know where i can find a part number fiche type thing for the gs450h?

My shocks, full service kit and track rod ends arrived today, but the track rod ends I've received are just the metal bit, without the ball joint!

All the ends I've seen have always had the ball in, what gives. Why on earth would I want to change the 2 metal sleeves and not the ball joints? 

I now clearly, and quickly, need to get 2 balls joints for the ends, and haven't a clue where to look or what part number I need etc. 

I'm hoping I can return the arms and reuse what's on there, give then ball joint is screw in, but what part am I to order? Baffled, bloody crazy, although makes sense as easy to replace the ball joint 've the joint and metal arm, but come'on!

All,

I'm due to be changing all disks and pads, alongside the track rod ends, rear shocks and sorting something regards the exhaust, plus a full service inckuding plugs, and am tight on time to get it all done before mot expires.

I therefore went looking for anything I should know of in advance, regards the changing of the brakes, as never touched a hybrid brakes before and keen for no surpriseses that slow me down.

Is there anything I should know before starting, as the regen braking is playing on my mind. Perhaps winding the piston back is also different to most, or other such stuff.

Lastly, anyone know where I can find torque specs, specifically for the brakes, ie carrier bolts, wheel studs and the rear suspension bolts that I'll be undoing when changing shocks? Like to do stuff as per, where possible, but can't find torque specs anywhere.

Thanks

I'll tell them when go back for retest, when have managed to sort all the failure points out. Blooming nightmare lol. 

Hum, interesting that they are exempt from emission checks. My mot that failed on strut and exhaust y piece and track rod ends, tested my emissions and confirmed all ok.

3 hours ago, Britprius said:

Is it perhaps something to do with the water run off coating on the front door windows. If the rubbers were in permanent contact they may possibly remove the coating in time.

The coating on my car after 10 years still works very well.

John.

Well if it is, mines long gone.

It's that bad that I'm going to buy rain x type stuff for them. When full of morning few, I can't see crap till hit the fast roads and wind blows it off. Just need to find best rain x stuff as hear there are better formulas out there.

Alan, id be eager o hear their explanation to. I've never had a car so bad as clearing side windows, and others were bad due to wear, not design, which would appear to be the issue here.

5 hours ago, mrdoofa said:

None when it goes wrong!!!

My mum drives a little tin box 2005 Daihatsu Charade which many people laugh at but it's bailed me out lots of times when I've had an apparently ultra reliable Lexus keep going wrong. It might only have a 1.0 3 cylinder engine but 50bhp that keeps going is better than 300bhp which doesn't.

We best all ditch the cars and get single speed bikes, or our own two feet! 😁

Everything can go wrong, and lots do, even feet. The more there is, the more there is to break, it depends on what your after and finding the balance thats fits the individual at that particular time i guess. If not, or if there was a car that was perfect, we'd all be in one and they'd be nothing else on the road. Imagine the used prices if that were the case eh!

As they are auto, would it not dictate when the heat/cool, ie, like climate control, if it's warm enough there no heat, but if not too hot, there no cool either type thing? Thus normal temp means can't tell, but if it were freezing, you'd then detect the heat?

Time to read the manual lol

Are they not the seat setting? Front left front right appear hot or cold, so it's a temp, whilst rears are heated only, so pitched as heater only?

Pure guess as eat newer than mine and I've never seen it in flesh, but makes sense to me, given the text.

Yeah but how much shove are you missing out on? 

Seems to be an issue then. Did these ever come with double glazing? Wonder if they are build for the extra width and didn't bother changing for those that didn't upgrade to the proper Windows?

I was thinking that Steve, but thought wait, I shouldn't have yo, that's what they are for! Kind of spoils any nice car looks when you have stop and get out and walk round clearing water off the glass yourself lol

Surely not, their sole pupose in life must be to clean the glass so we can see?

If it's true, it's the most ludicrous things I've ever encountered lol

Anyone elses side window rubbers make sod all effort to touch the glass?

Noticed recently that if I drop front windows, they come up with exactly the same water, dirt etc on, they aren't touching at all. Lazy gits. Putting my weight into door makes some contact, but still only half the glass and patchy at that!

Glad you sorted it Andrew, although I'd have pulled some fuses or disconnected Battery if they'd be stuck on before leaving any time, to save that faffing!

I have the key hole, I think, on a 2006, will have a look. Seems stupid to not have it when Battery in boot, unless there a manual release elsewhere? Like the little pull cords that are behind trim panels etc. Be crazy if it closed with no Battery installed, or when disconnected, be stuck forever then as couldn't get power in via anywhere else if no circuit to be made.

Are these cars common ground or common positive? Assume the former, but not done anything to establish it yet.

It's a good chuck of cash for such a thing, but, it's worth it, as that was most definitely a fire risk if even had to handle 1/3 of that fuse current for any amount of time.