Sami Tilander

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Sami Tilander last won the day on February 6

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About Sami Tilander

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  • Lexus Model
    GS 450h
  • Year of Lexus
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  1. Yes, a lot trickier than I excepted... but luckily I don't need the car right now, so there was plenty of time 😉 Here is list of parts I used: Rear Wheel Hub 42410-30020: Stark from Autodoc Bushings on axle carrier (no separate OEM numbers, not sold by Toyota/Lexus. Whole axle carrier is 42304-30090): Febest TAB-245 Febest TAB-238 Febest TAB-244Z 48710-53020 Arm Assy, Rear Suspension, No.1 Rh: MOOG RK641828 48770-30090 Arm Assy, Upper Control, Rear No.1: MOOG RK641830 89546-30070 Sensor, Speed, Rear Lh: Stark from Autodoc Bolts and nuts from local Lexus dealer: Bolt 91672-G1265 Nut 94151-21200 Bolt 91556-11475 (90105-14200) Nut 94151-21401 Washer 94622-51400 I also changed the parking brake springs and taps: 47447-10020 Pin, Shoe Hold Down Spring(For Front Brake) 90501-16118 Spring, Compression(For Parking Brake Shoe Hold Down) 47449-30030 Cup, Brake Shoe Hold Down Febest parts bought from MOOG parts from Rockauto BR.Sami
  2. Update (finally): dust deflector was pretty stuck, but I managed to get that out (without destroying it 😉 ) I decided to replace the bushings, so I ordered new ones from Febest. And then I took the axle carrier and new bushings and went to a local car service. They had a hydraulic press, which I don't have... Here is the axle carrier with new bushings: ...and here is all parts installed: All the needed pieces, ready to final assembly! Job done! The installation was so simple compared to the removal of the parts... BR.Sami
  3. Here are two videos: 1. power on: 2. acceleration test: I remember that I did switch to Sport-mode in the start of acceleration... but I need to re-test that. But as you can see, no movement at all... BR.Sami
  4. I've to say that I've never noticed anything changing on the suspension when switching to Sport... steering yes and gas pedal yes. My first test was simple: car running, open the hood, take plastic covers off, take one actuator into hand, ask somebody to switch to Sport. Nothing. Then I started to belive that it must be controlled by the speed and I did that GoPro test... I need to study a bit video editing & youtube to upload the videos (never done earlier). They are straight swaps, except for the actuators, of course. I had one stuck bolt, which needed to be cut, otherwise smooth & easy DIY. I first lowered too much, which caused problems with wheel alignment (there is not much adjustment possible with stock parts). Here in Finland you need to get the suspension & alignment inspected, so they need to be on specs. One hint: you probably want to adjust at least the dampers, so leave the plastic covers & trunk covers out for few weeks/months. It is painful to remove the covers for adjustments... BR.Sami
  5. Well, nothing at all... I probably need to re-take the video to be sure, I only did one short shot... I'll try to share the video I took so you can see it too 😉 I've to say I was a bit dissappointed with that... I was even planning to re-install the actuators on top of the BR racing coilovers, but not any more... Maybe the system is just designed to speeds which are not legal on our streets? BR.Sami
  6. Mmh... the regular springs were rated 14/10 is that shop I ordered my coilovers. I think mine are 10/8 (at least that is stated in the documents I got). This is the set I bought: with softer springs (sorry, in finnish and prices in €) BR.Sami
  7. It takes some time to find out the best settings that suit you: there is so many things you can adjust on those. I'd claim that you can get the same ride as oem, if you wish... I wanted to lower the car a bit, and get a bit more "firm" ride. I got that... Many times the coilovers are for sport-setups, which are (IMHO) too hard/uncomfortable. Pay attention which kind of setup you order... Actuators are on my garage's table. No codes from that 😉 One piece of details: the oem actuator is able to turn the damper pin about 100 degrees only. That 100 degrees corresponds to about 4 "clicks" on my coilovers (max. is about 32 "clicks" = more than 3 full rounds). So the oem adjustment is rather limited in that sense too... BR.Sami
  8. Hi Paul, I was in exactly same situation year ago: one leaking rear shock and with less money than changing both oem rear shocks, I was able to get new BC racing coilovers every corner 😉 I actually did a small experiment with the actuators: I connected one back, added a small visual scale there and took a video with GoPro to see how much the actuator will actually do any adjustment while driving. Result: nothing at all. At least in speeds under 120km/h. I did try with Sport and Normal modes, but no difference. The only movement was when power was turned on: then the actuator moves to both directions (probably to reset the settings). Btw, I ordered my BC Racing coilovers with softer springs, and I've been really happy with them. BR.Sami
  9. Next problem... guess what this is: Hint: here you can see it from the other side: Just wondering how anyone can remove a stuck plastic part... safely. I had to drill and tap the remainings out of that hole (which was btw. covered with white stuff, probably salt...). Next will be the dust deflector... hopefully that pops off easily. BTW. When I first time tried to change the wheel bearing, I never found exact answer to the question: do I need to take the wheel speed sensor off before removing the dust deflector. The answer is pretty clear from that picture: yes, you definitely need to do that. The journey continues... BR.Sami
  10. Update: I ordered that C-clamp press tool and that arrived on Friday. I tried to press the bolt out from the bushing, but it did not move a bit. Only the control arm metal gave up: Then I took the angle grinder and a cutting wheel... and now the axle carrier is removed! Next I need to figure out how to get those bolts still off... might be easiest just to replace those bushings? BR. Sami
  11. Something like this one: ? That looks like a tool I could try on the stuck bolt first... to see if I'm able to remove it without cutting it. Sami
  12. Still one concern before proceeding: if I cut the bolt... how do I get the remainings out from the bushing? The bushing is in the axle carrier, and I'd assume that changing that bushing might be very difficult... At least, some kind of a hydraulic press would be needed, right? I could not find that part from RockAuto, but seems that at least Febest has them as replacement parts, so it can be replaced... BR.Sami
  13. No help, I've been hammering that a lot recently... The rubber will also absorb part of the energy from the hit, I think. And thanx Lee for pointing to RockAuto, they seems to have very reasonably priced arms indeed... I found also from ebay few sellers selling Febest control arms. Any experience on Febest parts? Mmhh, maybe I'll order the new arms, put everything back (as I still can), and wait for needed parts before start cutting anything... BR.Sami
  14. Hi all, I had a plan to replace the rear wheel bearing on my GS450h... This time I planned to follow the offical guide to remove the whole axle carrier... only to discover that both upper control arm and lower control arm bolts were stuck inside the bushings. I got the nuts open, but the bolts do not move at all. What are my options? Should I try to cut those bolts? Or try with heating and probably destroy the rubber bushings? All help appreciated... BR.Sami
  15. Hi John, a quick question about the rear brakes: is it easy to remove & install the piston's dust seal? I'm cleaning the calibers but wasn't sure if I can remove that safely... Any recommendations for the grease to be used with the slide pin? BR.Sami