H3XME

15 hours ago, DannyM said:

Spotted that you used an Exedy clutch kit and wanted to know how you rate it. The clutch was replaced in my 250 just before I bought it 6 months ago (OEM clutch kit was fitted). I'm not a fan of it at all. Pressure plate is quite soft, very difficult to gauge the biting point and clutch is very sensitive (it's very easy slip it on a hill start!). Did you find the Exedy any better or is it much of a muchness being an OEM replacement? Cheers.

The OE replacement Exedy clutch feels a bit better than standard, but I've never driven the car with a fresh Lexus clutch as this was the first clutch change in it's whole life. It's a bit more aggressive, just overall better feeling compared to the stock clutch before it started slipping. We'd have to drive each other's cars to figure this out to be honest. 

On 4/4/2021 at 11:52 AM, mep said:

Don't know as there's much else to try.  According to the fact it's Easter and Covid and, and, and.  It's going to be at least 12 days to get the part and then try it.  I will report back.  If anyone else has any other I dead I can try in the interim period I would still be grateful.

Might be related to the sensor when de-pressing the clutch if it doesn't react? There's no other reason as to why it wouldn't start if you say the Battery is good.

On 3/7/2021 at 10:31 PM, Mitcheyfex said:

Nice, Result!

 

I have a IS250 and my clutch is slipping, only just started yesterday, mine is on 150k so fingers crossed the flywheel is fine and I can get away with just doing the clutch, I'm not getting any flywheel symptoms and no juddering.

Chances are that they will try and force you to change the DMF so they can make more money on you, but yeah, if it ain't broken, don't fix it.

On 3/14/2021 at 11:01 AM, Jamescokell said:

I saw this lovely IS250 for sale on Facebook marketplace and noticed the additional front splitter and rear bumper and spoiler which all look great, are these factory fitted or aftermarket? They all look like subtle ways to give the car a more sporty appearance and would love to do the same to mine. 

 

Thanks

James

@Mr Vlad 

This one is OEM. Factory lip kit, front, rear and the boot "spoiler". I believer they call this is IS250 SR or something like that, I can't remember exactly, but this is factory. 

You can buy a few different options as aftermarket. eBay or https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body-kits/lexus/lexus-is/lexus-is-mk2

25 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Well it goes to show the myriad of different Bluetooth adapters. My adapter connects immediately after ignition is turned on.

Are you on Android or iOS? I wonder if that's something to do with it. iPhones are a bit funny about connecting to random things automatically.

On 3/23/2021 at 1:30 PM, Jaystar77 said:

Hi Lucas,

Here's images of the wheels and the valves.

 

 

 

Ideally would like black or silver instead of the blue.  If you could advise on

price/availability please.

£23.04 for a set of these black ones. 

https://www.part-box.com/product/rays-black-rubber-air-valve-with-dust-cap/

On 3/19/2021 at 10:06 PM, RichGS11 said:

How much for CE28SL in 18's please?

(ISF PCD and CB, widths around 9 front and 9.5 rear with offsets in the 40's?)

 

Thank you.

Hi Rich. CE28SL (front) 18x8.5 ET35 (these would sit 10mm further out compared to factory front wheels) or ET45 (same as factory) and (Rear) 18x9.5 ET45 (5mm further out compared to factory)

Price for the above set would be £2974 Delivered.

15 hours ago, rich1068 said:

Hope you haven't been scared off Hugh.

In a nutshell, fit or keep whichever tyre and wheel combination you're happy with so long as they're standard IS250 fitment. An IS250 is an IS250. 

No need to keep things standard if you can make them better or suit your driving style more 😉

14 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Ok. So you say the sound is so low. I take it you mean volume. What volume setting on your phone do you use? I have my Samsung on max and radio on 30. 30 is quite loud. Mind you depends on what you're listening to. Spotify I find is quite varied in volume even with the settings set to maintain the same volume between different tracks. 

I've got a Belkin Bluetooth transmitter ( cigi plug for power and then straight into Aux ) Then i have to press a button on the receiver and my phone is auto connected to it. Bluetooth music & calls work. But yea, the volume.. I have my phone on max volume and then just adjust the volume of the car. It's loud with both on full. I don't have any issues with it. I just wish the phone connected to it straight away after starting the car.. I have to either press a button on the Bluetooth module or go into settings in me phone which takes longer. Oh and I'm using an Iphone and apple Music.

Said it before, and I'll say it again.

By no means you need more than 225s on the rear of an IS250. Yes, the manual says so and so. These cars are not tail happy, you don't need to overcompensate with big tyres to reduce oversteer. You will ruin dynamics, mpgs, and acceleration. 

17s or 18s, start searching for tyres on any online tyre shop and look for a decent brand tyre and low sound ratings if that's what you need. Stay away from budget ditch finders and you'll be good. No point discussing something so subjective in advance if you haven't tried any options yet. Get the car, drive it. Go from there.

31 minutes ago, Hugh R said:

Thanks, but not actually bought it yet, but don't think wheels would hold me back from doing so.  So if I kept the 18's what tyre configuration (F+R)do you people suggest for comfort and quietness?

225/40R18 front and rear. Absolutely no need to run 245s on the rear. It's just gonna increase drag and noise. When buying tyres, you can see what noise rating they have, so look for that :) There's so many tyres out there I couldn't tell you which is the quietest one.. I shop for grip, not noise. Oh, and btw, I don't think it matters that much. IS250 is pretty well sound proofed as it is. Won't make a huge difference on this car anyway

42 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

So was it just the seat backs you removed? Why is the parcel shelf so difficult to lift up?

Yeah. No need to do anything in the boot. 

There's just so many awkward clips. 

11 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Blimey to be honest that sub speaker looks utter cheap n nasty. It's amazing though that it's a superb speaker. Mind blown 😳

I know right! They don't look anything special, nor are big... but they work really good. I honestly don't think I've ever been in a car with a better factory audio system.

Update*

My subwoofer stopped working a couple of weeks ago. It was on & off for a few days until it's gone completely quiet. My car has the Mark & Levinson audio system, so I was a bit worried about sourcing a replacement for reasonable money as used ones on eBay go for almost £200.

I ended up going to a local scrap yard that had a few IS250/IS220D's there and got a replacement for £60. It's generally quite a lot for a used speaker but I didn't want to go through the headache of wiring in a new box sub + I'd lose some boot space. Anyway, I got the replacement speaker on Saturday and didn't get around fitting it until Tuesday evening. Pulled the seats out easy, but lifting the rear parcel shelf was DIFFICULT. I managed to lift it up on the right side just enough to stick my wrench in there, but I tell you, it put up a decent fight. Once I removed the four 10mm bolts holding the sub in place I realised I f*cked up. The speaker they gave me at the scrap yard must've been from a car without the M&L system. Not only it looked different, but the plug had 4 pins, whereas my M&L sub has only 2. You can imagine I wasn't happy, especially after removing everything to get the damn thing out. It was my bad for not checking my sub before I went down to the scrap yard. I would've noticed straight away as they look different. I rushed to the scrap yard last night to get my money back / get the correct speaker before they closed and all I was thinking is "will they want more money for the M&L sub since they charged £60 for the non M&L sub". I think I was right thinking that since the M&L subs for for around £200 on eBay and the non M&L for around £100. Luckily enough I found a car in the scrap yard with the M&L system and told him I want to swap for that one as the first one they supplied didn't fit. They also didn't charge any extra, so happy days for me and they essentially lost money 😄

Anyway, the new sub works great. Just for info, if anyone else has to go through the same. This is what the M&L Subwoofer looks like.

8 minutes ago, Davey Blueeyes said:

I have coilovers on my SC, put on by a previous owner. Now they are starting to look a bit (very!) shagged. Personally I'd rather replace with stock suspension but presumably the cost of rebuilding the entire suspension will be much more than a decent new set of coilovers?

If you have any experience of coilies on an SC430, especially if you've recently bought any, raise your hand now and tell me what you got!

sorry, no experience with SC430, but had Teins on my V8 Soarer and now on my IS250.. happy with it for the price to be honest. I don't know what coilovers you have so I can't tell you whether rebuild is even possible.

14 minutes ago, zoricib said:

My IS250 came with the VLAND kit on it when I bought it in July and passed it's MOT with no issues. Previous owner didn't have any issues with it either. 

 

are you sure the leveling works? On mine I had to adjust them manually via screws located on the headlights  - to raise/ lower the level of the beam that is. 

Yeah sorry, I don't have the auto levelling, I've got a little scroll barrel (1-5) on the dash to adjust the height of the beam. I thought that's what he meant 😄

@McShmoopy From a quick glance the wiring is different on IS220D. I didn't know that. Nevertheless, my side lights work as they should. Though the only difference is.. Because they're wired into the ACC, they only work when you have the ignition on. When the car is fully off, only the rears work, but thats not an MOT fail because nowhere in the law it states they have to work when the vehicle is off. Only when it's stationary on the side of the road at night. 

On 3/21/2021 at 12:40 AM, McShmoopy said:

These look amazing! I'm planning on getting these myself on my Black IS250 F Sport, my only concern is the VLAND headlights aren't quite MOT compliant as the DRL is always on so it may fail an MOT. I believe one way around this was to plug the fuse into the "Front Brake Light" fuse or something to that effect, they would come on with the rear tail lights, but even this isnt 100% as the LED Driver is a fixed voltage so it will never dim down. For that reason I was considering the Facelift OEM style lights but I just love the look of the VLANDS so Im torn to be honest! 

I'm not sure about the MOT issue.. I've got my MOT end of August, I can't see having any issues with them to be honest. Factory GT86 DRL are always on as well. Can't turn them off. Should it be a concern, I'd unplug the fuse for them. Definitely cheaper and better looking option than 2012 Factory headlights IMO.

On 3/15/2021 at 2:38 PM, ALTSpitfire said:

My is250 has the 17 inch alloys and would be looking at swapping to the 18 inch alloys in the near future 

 

Do it! Here's mine 😉 

Before

After

I just realised I haven't got any pictures from the same angle as the first pic 😄 

13 hours ago, Jaystar77 said:

Hi Lucas, that's a lot of temptation right there! 😍

I've owned quite a few used sets over the years and can only echo the quality mentioned. 

Just on that, I've a set of old Versus on my RX350 that might need valves - I know it's not a set of wheels but are you guys able to source those on their own?

 

 

Hi. We keep valves in stock so we should be able to help you. Which ones are you after? Would you be able to send a picture? 

26 minutes ago, Mitcheyfex said:

This is exactly the kind of sound im looking for! 

HKS exhausts are so expensive though.

 

Thanks 

Definitely, but they are worth it in my opinion. One of a kind exhaust sound.

On 3/15/2021 at 3:34 PM, Mitcheyfex said:

Fair enough, good to know.

Kind of a bummer because something is definitely effecting the performance, I know spark plugs are due to be done and it could do with a carbon clean perhaps? Just some ideas circulating.

Thanks for clarifying that, appreciate it.

Here's what I did. I got HKS axle back for my IS250. This is the sound > 

There is 0 drone. I'm booked in for a secondary de-cat soon. I'm hoping it won't make it much louder, I just want a slightly better flowing exhaust gases and slight bump in torque. Cat on IS250's are not actually worth that much. I was quote like £70 per secondary cat. Not surprised they aren't that good considering how much we have to pay for road tax with manual cars. 

I don't think I've ever mentioned it on this forum, but I work for a performance and tuning parts company in the Midlands. We supply a huge range of products, from wheels to engine internals. Anyway, should this be useful to anyone, we are the official UK dealers for RAYS Wheels Japan. One of the best wheel manufacturers in the world. They are the best because they manufacture wheels to very high safety standards used in motorsport and on the roads. Plenty of JDM auto-makers have "factory" wheels made by rays, such as Nissan's NISMO wheels are made by RAYS, some factory Toyota wheels are made my RAYS and many more.

Upgrading to RAYS wheels is not just about getting fancy new wheels that arguably look better than factory wheels of our cars, but they're also stronger and lighter. Lighter wheels = less unsprung weight and better acceleration and less wear on suspension components over the years. They are also stronger than factory wheels, and this is where they shine the most. Should people go out of their way and spend £700 on a new set of wheels from a budget brand, you're facing possible difficulties down the line. I have found out the hard way some years ago. Bought a cheap set of new wheels, everything was good until I hit a sneaky pothole and my wheel turned into a 50p coin. Never again. I could've been worse. It could've cracked and cause an accident. So it's always better to do your research before committing to a purchase of new wheels.

RAYS do all kinds of wheels, so let's have a look at a few options.

RAYS GramLights 57ANA

RAYS GramLights 57BNA

RAYS GramLights 57CNA

RAYS GramLights 57Transcend

RAYS GramLights 57CR

RAYS GramLights 57DR

RAYS GramLights 57FXZ

RAYS Homura 2x10BD

RAYS Homura Hyuga HP10

RAYS Versus Vouge

RAYS Volk Racing TE37SAGA

RAYS Volk Racing CE28SL

RAYS Volk Racing 21C

Sizes and prices vary depending on the wheel. If you have any questions about wheels or fitment, let me know. I'll be happy to help.

Sorry to hear that.

This little pouch is the most cost effective solution. When the key is in the pouch you can stand right next to car and it won't unlock. (keyless entry) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blocker-Faraday-Keyless-Blocking-Protection-2-x-Signal/dp/B076KZF645/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=key+pouch+anti+theft&qid=1615283697&sr=8-3

On 8/27/2018 at 7:48 PM, Kiefels said:

Dragging up an old, old, old old post but it was relevant to me and I found a fix (for me) so thought I would resurrect it.

Had the same, cutting it off sound at anything over 40 volume (Mark Levinson)  I had been having speaker distortion for some time and decided to investigate.

At first I thought it was the subwoofer, so I bought a repair kit. Took everything out to access the subwoofer, turned on some music to test it whilst I had it all uncovered, nothing, dead, not moving at all. OK, so removed it, took it apart, inspected it, found it the foam had just come adrift from the housing, a little adhesive from the kit site that out. I then ran a soldering iron over the connections and a quick test on my surround sound confirmed all is well.

Put it back in the motor, fired up the system and there it was, crackle then silence at anything over 39 on the volume. Could only be the subwoofer as everything was fine until I got that working. Dismantled it again, re soldered the copper braided wire across the rear of cone and made sure that when I put it back together, it was done correctly, and seated nicely.

Back in the motor again, connected up and all is well again. Subwoofer working, can crank it up to 59 and I now know that my rear left speaker is shot, probably because it had been taking more bass than it should have been. One on order, so hopefully back up to speed on the sound quality again.

Happy days

 

Think im having a similar issue now. ML Audio works, every speaker seems to be working but the subwoofer is 95% of time dead. I got no bass. Sometimes it comes on. But for the most part it's off. I haven't had a chance to investigate further as it's still cold outside - don't fancy sitting out in the cold taking things apart.