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Hi Gay :winky: The alarm is on the left behind the glovebox bolted in on a metal plate. You can unplug this but the siren still may sound, although it will not stop the car starting.

I shouldnt think its something that can be programmed, but any auto electrician should be able to wire it up for you by using the cdl wires

Today I had a go at fitting my head unit, I wanted to keep the original amp in use if possible for two reasons 1 I'm lazy and didnt want to run new speaker wire or mess around rewiring the amp 2 to keep the factory sub and centre channel in use. This is what I did. I left all original plugs connected and soldered ISO connector and RCA leads on, this way it can all go back to standard easy. Blue plug Black/Yellow - unknown Red/Green - Amp Remote Turn On Green - Illumination Blue/Yellow - +12V Pemanent Black/Orange - Unknown Black/White - Electric Aerial Power Red/Blue - Unknown Brown - Unknown White/Black - Ground Grey - Ignition 12V White Plug Grey/Purple sleave Purple - Rear Right + Brown/White - Rear Right - Green - * see note Grey/Pink sleave Pink - Rear Left + Brown/Yellow - Rear Left - Blue - * Grey/Red sleave Red - Front Left + Brown/Red - Front Left - Green - * Grey sleave Black - Front Right + Brown/Black - Front Right - White - * In this plug apart from three wires they are in screened leads. The three spare wires are Blue/Black, Red/White, Brown. I do notg know what these are for but did not seem to need them. * The wires listed above with a * seem to do the same as the other wires listed as speaker +, I thought I would try with just the connections as done above and see how I got on, all seems well, sub and centre speaker as well as all door speakers work fine. NOTE These listed as speaker wires are not high level, They are low level in to the amp, use these to join RCA leads on to and plug into the pre-outs of your head unit. Grey Plug Not needed, believe it is just cd changer control Also made up a temporary facia panel till my mate has a chance to make up my proper one, which will go in when the double din head unit I want is available.

Lokks like its a bypass job then. If you could post any info you have it would be a great help

For the moment for ease of install I would like to still use it, eventually it will be bypassed but not for now unless it has to be.

I'm looking to replace the head unit in my Mk1 GS300 which has the factory amp and sub. I cannot find the loom adaptor needed though, I tried a amplified MR2 one, and although it does fit one of the plugs the power wires are in a different plug. The one that it did fit does have what I think are the signal wires to the amp but as the power wires are not correct I'm a little unsure if the signal wires will be. Anyone had any experience with this? If it comes to it then I'll run new wires down to the amp output but wanted to avoid it if possible.

Dragging up an old one, but are these stickers or is it actually etched on the window?

Do you not just push the button again that turned it on?

Thats all very well but we are not talking about SC430's. The V8 need two things, a Kph-Mph convertor and a speed delimiter. The TT only needs one to do both things, this maybe why the TT does not experience the same problems as the V8. Not having had a TT I cant be sure but I think this is the case. Delimiters can cause problems with gear changes over 180Kph. The one for sale on Tifbitz has apparently been tested not to give this problem. Why do you need Mph? You get used to Kph, I dont find it a problem.

Who's that then Carlos?? pm if dont want it on here

Good stuff. On a similar thought does anyones shakey or fold mirror buttons light up, mine dont and not sure if they are supposed to. <--- Whats this warning thing avout? Carlos, hows tricks, you going to be at Billing?

Cheers Carlos, Next question, where the hell can I get a Mines ECU?

Cheers for that, Is that what he has listed as Rush V8 extractors?

555, modified headers? can you explain what, where, how etc please