DruLS

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

DruLS last won the day on October 6

DruLS had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

41 Excellent

About DruLS

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Andy
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS430
  • Year of Lexus
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater Manchester

Recent Profile Visitors

499 profile views
  1. First one to notice the different wins...... USDM syle side markers! Don't ask me why, but I've always been a fan of amber marker lights. I like the ones the US cars have, but they were not available here. I would have only needed the bottom bracket from the inside of a a US set of headlights where the indicator and marker lights are held. It's held in with two screws and could we swapped into a UK set. But I could only find full sets of headlights for lots of money. LHD headlights would have been useless so I'd be paying a lot of money for just the small part I wanted. So I took it upon myself to modify my existing headlights to look similar. As you can see, I also wired in some amber running lights into the empty section of the fog light housing. I'm still undecided on these. I took enough photos to do a write up / how to but I can't bring myself to do that right now. This took all bloody day. Taking the bumper off, headlights out, removing the lenses, moding the insides, re-sealing, re-wiring etc. I'm knackered, sore and dirty but I'm happy with the results. The camera on my phone makes these seem quite a bit brighter then they are, but in person they're just right. This is what the car looks like with just the sidelights on. They are all Osram LED bulbs. The ones in the headlights are white and behind amber reflectors. The ones in the fog lights are amber. I was originally going to use regular bulbs (which I actually prefer), but quickly realised that changing one of these bulbs would require taking the headlight apart again so opted for the longer lasting option. Also, because of the lower current draw of LEDs, I didn't have to use a relay like I was planning to. 3 of the bulbs still use less current than a regular bulb, so they're all just spliced into the original sidelight circuit. And this is what it looks like with everything going. I replaced the fog lights with a set of Osram Fog Breakers - yellow fog lights. If anybody is actually interested in a write up I can do that, but right now I think I'm going to take some painkillers and get in the bath 😂 But on a lighter note, I acidentally pitched my soldering iron and heat gun in a battle. The soldering iron won. Brand new she was, taken too soon.
  2. Just don't get the ones I got! They'll be plenty of more suitable ones out there. I'm going to wire a PWM module in line on these to dim them down a tad.
  3. Weird, it worked for me once then not again. It still works in Safari but no other browser. Can be found on my instagram instagram.com/p/B3z2WBOnsKR/
  4. Starting with my lighting modifications tomrrow but thought I'd give my new LED indicator bulbs a go. Never tried using exterior LEDs on anything other than number plate lights before. I wanted something a little brighter in the hopes less people would pull out on me at round abouts. My God are these things bright. Too bright in fact, the video doesn't do it justice. You could direct incoming airliners onto the runway with these. I've ordered some PWM modules so I can dim these down before I put them back in. Other than that they're very good quality. Well built, no ultra-flashing, polarity doesn't matter just like with a regular bulb. But I can't be driving around with the equivilent of HID indicators 😂 IMG_1307.MOV
  5. Braved the rain and my bad back to finish off with an oil change today and getting the undertray back on. My hat goes off to mechanics out there because today I'm sore all over. Couldn't do this everyday. But at least the car is happy! The good news is my ARB bushings are actually fine. Yesterday idiot me looked at the split that allows you to wrap them around the ARB and thought "Oh no, they're cracked!" 😂
  6. I told myself I'd only use genuine parts for a car as good as this. That was until I got a quote from Lexus for a new rad.
  7. HAHA, just noticed that the eBay listing says this is suitable for both the automatic and manual versions of the LS430. How I'd wish to find one of those elusive manual versions one day.
  8. Only the best parts for my car, so of course I went with this genuine eBay radiator. The fit was perfect everything matches to the old one and the quality seems pretty good. I think others have used this before. Beware there appears to be two different designs for these cars, one with the radiator cap and one without so this one may not work on yours. As for the ARB bushing, car seems to drive fine but it's probably been like that since I got it. I'll let you know if I notice any difference when I change them.
  9. Big day for the LS today. New radiator and coolant flush, AC condenser, gearbox oil cooler and aux belt. Didn't even get around to doing the oil change. The whole reason the front clip is off is I wanted to make some changes to the headlights but didn't even have time to do that. I did replace all the bulbs with some nice Osram ones though. I did notice that I need new bushings for the anti-roll bar. There's also some seepage coming from the steering rack but nothing too bad.
  10. Urgh. I wondered what you were talking about for a while there. I used at least what they called the "direct link" and when I clicked the photos in my thread it would just open the photo in the browser, not go to the Imgur website. Turns out it does that if you're logged into your account because I just tried it in a private window. Too late to edit now. Thanks for the heads up though.
  11. Well, today I've ripped out the centre stack for about the 3rd or 4th time since I got this car. I'm a pro at this now 😂 If anybody is thinking of buying the XCarLink adapter to save a bit of dosh, DON'T. It was so bad I just ended up not using it. I mean the thing worked, but there would be constant noise/hiss in the background. Using it with my iPhone (which required a big ugly adapter because the cable supplied used the iPod 30 pin connector and the other end was propriatary so you couldn't just use a lightning cable) would introduce terrible interferance that seemed to be based on what was on the screen (more white seemed to cause more noise weirdly enough). Using it with my iPod classic, I could hear the hard drive spin up through my speakers! XCarLink support claimed this was normal! And it didn't support song text/title support while not important, is nice. So I did what I should have done in the first place and got the GROM USB3 adapter. Let me tell you this thing is great and perfect for my needs. I wanted a setup that allowed me to use my iPod classic (which I still use because it allows me to store thousands of songs which I rip from my CDs in ALAC (Like FLAC - lossless CD quality audio)), my iPhone (which I mainly use for Podcasts, Spotify, Internet Radio and as a sat nav) without the need to keep switching cables. And I still maintain the full use of the CD changer which I still use. When you first select the CD2 input, you have a couple of seconds to use the track skip buttons to change the input. The voice of a rather nice sounding lady will call out "USB, iPod, AUX" etc over the speakers. But you can customise this how you want as there's a few add-ons available such as a bluetooth module (for steaming and calls) and a DAB radio tuner. Sound quality wise it's amazing. Somehow it seems to sound better then the CD player. I don't know if it's a different EQ or something but I had to turn the bass down because it was booming. Still crystal clear though. So this is the current setup. The top mount is where my phone goes (it's not there as I had to use it to take the photo). The holders I use are fantastic. You clip the cable into them so you simply dock your device in, no faffing with cables. If anybody is interested in these mounts, they're called Brodit ProClip. Essentially they comes in two parts, a mount for the car and a holder for your device. You look up your make and model and you'll be presented with different mounts designed specifically for your car. Then you look for a holder for your particular device, be it a phone, iPod, sat nav etc. You attach them together and you have the best mount money can buy. I realise I must sound like a sales rep for GROM and Brodit, but I just really like these products. However, one issue with the Brodit mounts and the LS430 is that they offer only one mount (the one my iPod is on). Generally they offer several solutions for each car but not this one. It's not a good location for a phone which I use as a sat nav as it's far too low down and would require you to take your eyes off the road. It's fine for the iPod though. I searched everywhere for another solution but all the other mounts I could find were for LHD cars such as the Panavise mount and this wouldn't have worked properly in a RHD car. After a long time spent on Google I did managed to find a possible solution from some obscure company called Dashmout. This is the Dashmount 71521 and appears to be compatible with the LS430, GS300 and GS350. I had no idea if it would be compatible with my iPhone holder but at only £15 I decided to take the gamble and I'm so glad I did. It lined up perfectly with my Brodit iPhone holder. The mount itself simply slips between the gap between the dash and the centre stack. It's just held in place by friction but does include a strip of double sided sticky foam also. It's very sturdy and doesn't flex or move at all which I'm very pleased about. Not much else has changed as of yet. I did swap out the number plate lights for these ones from Amazon. Don't be fooled by the photo. They're nowhere near this bright and obnoxious in person it's just a bad photo. The brightness is just right and makes the rear end look a bit more modern. I also took a gamble on a full set of interior LED lights. They come from China as a kit and so are cheaper then buying the bulbs individually. Kit for cars with rear vanity mirrors Kit for cars without vanity mirrors I'd like brighter interior lights, but sometimes these LED bulbs can be incredibly white and cold so I may end up not using them. But they were cheap enough to take a gamble. I've also been getting some quotes for a new stainless steel exhaust system as the current one is shot and leaking. Luckily my MOT guy let it slide as it wasn't dangerous and he knew I'd get it fixed. No way I'm paying Lexus money so custom it is. I'm going to go for something a little more sporty as long as it's not too loud. I don't want to ruin the car by making it really loud but at the end of the day I have a V8 and at the moment I can't hear it! I'm also waiting on deliveries for some components I'll be using to make some minor modifcations to the headlights and fog lights. I'm hoping it turns out nicely but I'll keep that as a suprise until it's done. P.S. - Does anybody happen to know what kind of bulbs these switches use? I noticed the power / snow button stopped lighting up the other day. The bottom row of buttons has never illuminated since I got the car and I only just found out today that they're supposed to! Anyway, thanks for reading and have a good weekend. 😊
  12. Rock Auto seem to have good prices on the OEM Denso ones. For the price I think I might just order them all and have the exhaust shop fit them while they're putting the new exhaust in. Even if they're not faulty they're known to go bad so couldn't hurt.
  13. If any of you guys know a thing or two about catalysts and O2 sensors, I'd appreciate it if you could take a look at my thread here - having a couple issues with the car at the moment.
  14. Hi everyone, So I'm currently on a mission to sort a few odd jobs out on my car and get it back into good health. I've been having the 'Check VSC' and CEL coming on intermittently so I've just done a scan with TechStream and here's what I currently have. The main issues I want to solve first are the codes for the cats and O2 sensor. Now my current exhaust is not in great condition and is leaking so I'm having on having a new one made up soon. I'm hoping that a leak could cause this but I'm not sure as I'm no expert on exhausts, and I don't know if this would be related to the O2 sensor also. Now the reason I want to sort this out first is because ECP are currently having a big sale on for the next 24 hours and I can get a really good discount on a couple of Bosch or Denso sensors. Based on these codes, would it be safe to assume that these need replacing? If so I'd like to buy the replacements right away so I can save some dosh. ECP have a 1 year return policy so I might buy them now just in case I do need them. EDIT: Just found out that these cars have 4 O2 sensors. Rock Auto lists only 3, upsteam left, upstream right and downstream. Does this mean I need two of the downstream ones? And is there any way to check which ones have gone bad because I couldn't see how to do that on TechStream. I'm also hoping a bad O2 sensor could cause the car to think the cats aren't working properly because it's receiving bad/no info from them. The car recently went through an MOT and the emissions were fine (and this was back before it was on LPG). C1713 just appears to be a faulty sensor so I'm not too worried about that for the time being. And it appears that C1751 and C1752 can be caused when the car is running but lifted off the ground. I've reset these and I'll see if they come back. C1201 seems quite worrying. TechStream doesn't give much info and my research seems to indicate it could be a problem with the ECU. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated.
  15. I used to have a Japanese spec VW Bora but that was fine because none of the buttons had words, just icons. And the cluster can be changed to UK mode easily. The owner's manual however was useless!