On 6/20/2020 at 2:40 PM, m4rkw said:

A proper service (drop pan, replace filter, drain and refill) can never hurt the transmission. If a person does this and their transmission goes out sometime later, it was the prior lack of service that killed it, not the service. "Sealed for life" is a meaningless term - they're correct that it'll last for the life of the transmission, because when that fluid's all burned up it's done.

The manufacturer of the Lexus is 250 gearbox rekomend 50000km Flushing intervall. I did a Flushing on my Is250 vith 250000km on the meter, without the detergent step in the Flushing,  also dropper the pan and changed the filter, i first drained the pan and refilled ( the repair shop dident hawe the right fittings to conect the Flushing mascine to the gearbox, ) maybe i noticed a difrence, maybe placebo. After Flushing a big difrence in the gearbox, before i could drive the car up hill on wery low rpm and the engine start shaking, now its not posible to do this beqause the gearbox vill gear down and increase the rpm.

I hawe Banner Battery, test vinner in the 2 last tests in a Norwegian magacine. 100% fitt.

I ordered a can on eBay today, hope it want be a problem, have many short trips and afraid this can make a carbon build up.

Is the carbon build up a smaler problem in Europe than US?

Is there anyone with this installed in a Is 250. Rekomend or not.

How did it work out?

I flushed and changed filter on my Is250. higly rekomended, flush only vith oil (no detergent) i dident know something was wrong but the gearbox react much faster now.

My 250 was much slower in warm up than my former Is200. 2000. But i did a flush on the gearbox and that change it a lot, not as fast as the Is200, but much better.

I dont know what you have asked them to do, have you asked them to flush and change filter, or change filter only? The difrence in oil use is about 6.2 litre.

in Norway the flush cost about 500£ and filter change about 350£ included filter casket and 1 litre oil. So my cost in Norway was about 800£. Probably cheaper in the UK.

I can also tell you that the when i asked the meckanik that was using the flush unit that i was going to change filter on my car, hi told me that Flushing was not neded, i told him that i dont care and want the flushing. Lexus Norway dont rekomend Flushing att all, they had never done it on a Is250. 

Some input in another thread from me.

I realy dont understand how they can replace 5L from the gearbox, you can change 7.2 litre bay flushing and about 1 litre bay drop the pan or open the drain plug, i would be close to call them liars in your case.

The gearbox have 7.2 litre oil, i can only give you my story.

If they only drop the pan you only replace about 1 litre. I had something very similar with my car that happened in uphill driving in low speed, 1000-1200rpm. Not all the time. I did a flush without cleaning addesive (oil only) this problem is now solved,  the gearbox is shifting gear much faster and the strange thing is that the engine is getting the normal temperature much faster. My car had 250000km on the meter when the flushing happened. I did the flushing because of the high miliage not the juddering, but the first thing i did after flushing was to try the hill in low rpm, and no problem. Please read the thread about changing gearbox oil.

1 hour ago, azriz said:

Hi guys,

I’ve got a 2008 IS250 automatic on 92k miles that started developing a judder between 30-36 MPH when the transmission shifts in to 5th gear (low RPM at that speed) and the drivetrain temperature is above cold, but not yet at full operating temperature. It feels like you’re driving over a rumble strip of some sort, and it feels like it will happen infinitely unless I let off the throttle and re-apply, or kick it down so it drops a gear and brings the revs back up.

Once at full operating temperature, the issue goes away. When you let go of the throttle, the juddering instantly stops, and if you push deeper into the throttle it downshifts a gear and stops the juddering.

 

Once the car is at full temp, there are no issues, it drives like a dream.

 

I can quite consistently make it happen (not that I want to!) by doing this:

- Start car from cold
- After about 10 mins of driving, slowly accelerate up towards 30mph
- Once it shifts into 5th at 30mph, continuing the same light throttle input will cause it to happen
- I have to let off the throttle and re-apply it to stop it happening, and then I get a tiny bit more aggressive on it so it keeps the revs up above the 1400ish mark

Its required conditions seem to mainly be:
- 30-36mph
- Just shifts into 5th gear, so revs are low at around 1100 rpm
- Light throttle, gentle acceleration
- drivetrain still below full temp, but well above cold
- it’s extra easy to replicate the issue when you’ve driven the car to full temp, park up and let it sit for 45-60 mins to start dropping temp a bit, set off again, and when you meet the above conditions, the judder is super obvious

 

2 months ago I had the fluid and filter replaced at a transmission specialist. They also added an anti-judder product in hope of fixing the issue.

They noted that the fluid came out very dark, much worse than they would expect at 92k miles. The tech that spoke to me said that he fears it will fail not too long from then.

The car drove great after the service, the juddering went away for a few weeks.

However it has unfortunately slowly returned and has now reached the original sort of level of problem. It’s been about 1k miles since the service.

 

Has anyone experienced this sort of issue before? I’ve been desperately trying to research this issue over the last 4 months and what I’ve found is that there have been some cases of the torque converter failing, mainly in the USA I think, and replacing the TC fixed the issue.

I don’t want to chase a transmission problem and find out it’s actually somehow misfiring in the engine due to carbon buildup or something! (I’ve read codes on a phone app and none are stored, and the CEL has never come on in this car - I think it usually flashes during misfiring on most cars right?).

 

I’m thinking to give the car in to the transmission specialist to have the torque converter rebuild, and all fitted back up with fresh fluid etc. This will cost me about £1k.

If the issue is even worse, I’ll be looking at nearly £3k for a full rebuild of the whole box, but with the car being worth like £3.5k I’m not sure it’s worth doing…

One of the cases I found seems to mention the same issue here: https://www.justanswer.com/lexus/9gp5g-intermittent-problem-car-low-speed.html

Thanks in advance for any insight or advice.

Regards
Az
 

How much fluid did you change?

There is a drain plugg and a level plug on the pan, but you only get about 1 liter oil out, so if you like to change the 7.2litre you have to use a flush unit.

13 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Welcome Jim.

As there isn't a drain plug on the transmission it is a little more involved but not difficult for any garage or competent DIYer. There are two main methods:

• use the fill hole to insert a tube and draw out the fluid in the pan.
• unbolt the whole pan

Note however that both methods will really only change 1 to 1.5 litres of fluid out of the 7.2 litres the transmission actually holds - so this doesn't make a big difference unless it is repeated again and again.

Also note that the fill procedure isn't difficult but time consuming because you keep having to check the level as you fill, then go through all the gears, then get up to temperature. Once up to temp and level, you then have to add 0.4 litres.

I did a flush without the detergent in the flushstart , using only the gearbox oil in the flush machine. The machine name is BG Produkts PXT. And they need a special fitting for the 250.

i live in Norway and did the job in a Toyota Store, i was also told by Lexus Norway that they have never flushed a 250. So i am probably the first in Norway to do this.  I can only say that the gearbox is much faster in gearing after the flush.

I also nothise that the engine is getting the normal temprature faster now than before, the 250 was much slower to get rigt temprature than my old Is200. But now i dont think its much difrence att all. Strange.

Finally I got my Flushing and filter change done, there is only one thing to say about this, recomended. The gearbox react much faster, most evident on gear down. Before i could drive the car upphill with rpm around 1000-1100. Now this is not possible because the gearbox will gear down and the rpm will rise, this is in the 30-60 km speed. I did'nt  expect much difference but i got alot. I know Lexus say you dont have to change oil, thats rubbish in my opinion.  My car have 250000km on the counter, mostly driven long distance.

2 hours ago, H3XME said:

The final drive is a different ratio, so It will improve the acceleration.. And second hand 86 LSD is only about £300 + the stock torsen in my IS250 doesn't lock up the same way the diff in my GT86 locks up.

Do you know about second hand 86 LSD?

On 2. januar 2020 at 4:47 PM, H3XME said:

Hello,

 

So I've picked up another IS250 last year. I had one previously and I missed it, so here it is.

Manual, black leather, sat nav with Mark Levinson audio system, air conditioned seats and the rest that's pretty normal for these cars.

Bought it completely stock.

Soon after I've done an oil change, I replaced a dirty air filter and put an HKS Super air filter in it and changed the oil cap for a Mishimoto aluminium one.

I've replaced a dirty & damaged gear knob gaiter and disgustingly used gear knob that just pained me every time I drove it.

Then the exciting stuff happened.. a set of RAYS Gramlights 57CR 18x9.5 ET38 paired with very average TOYO Proxes TR1 225/40R18.. I've used the older compound (T1-R) tyres and they were fine. Definitely a very noticeable upgrade over the previous 245/45R17 Continentals that someone put on it. 245s are just way too wide for the amount of power this car has in my opinion. It feels a lot more nimble now on the narrower tyres, but also much more grippy due to the Toyo's being just better in every way. The AVG mpg's have also changed after changing an air filter & wheels. I used to average 21mpg on my way to and from work (14mile one way mixed commute - dual carriageways, town and country roads). Now it's around 26mpg and strictly motorway driving - cruise control at 70mph went from 36mpg to 43mpg. Safe to say I'm very happy with it so far.  

Currently I need to get rear discs & pads all round as these are sh*t and very bad on dusting.

Plans for the future are:

TEIN Flex Z Fully adjustable coilovers to improve the handling.

HARDRACE front LCA steering response bushes - that should stiffen up the steering wheel a little bit as it's way too sensitive for me at the moment.

GT86/BRZ OEM differential & 4.1 final drive - will reduced the top speed, but will increase the acceleration which is something very noticeable, especially on A/T cars as they have 3.7 FD and M/T have 3.9 FD, but my Manual will benefit from it too.

HKS HI-Power exhaust (currently on back order - should arrive in April) - unleash the V6 noises! Sound clip from someone in the USA here

Rear diffuser

Vland tail lights

+ lots more but I won't list everything..

 

 

 

What vil the Gt86 differentiall change in the car? Cost.

2 hours ago, rich1068 said:

Everyone else is joining in this 9 year old thread. I was feeling left out.

So, window experts. Different car ('02 GS) but my passenger window just will not go back up on it's own from the control on the driver's side. I've tried holding on down, holding on up, half way down, everything. Just refuses to work. Works fine from the passenger side switch. Any ideas?

My is200 dont have to be recalibrated after Battery cut. So older Lexus maybe dont have this problem (solution).

3 hours ago, Petals said:

I have the same problem and have tried the windows to half mast, but still they don’t work . I also brought a salvaged window components and still they don’t work. I can only operate the drivers window. Any advice gratefully received.

You probably do itt a little bitt wrong, youst read the tread carefully. Have done this myself.

2 hours ago, Bluesman said:

All done.

 

Thank you.

Do somone now how to turn the pictures? They are corect in the IPad.