McShmoopy

3 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Well done. The fit looks much better than I've seen on YouTube videos with the same kind of unit.

Thanks Vlad, the fit is pretty good so in that regard I have no complaints. The only gripe I have with this compared to my VLINE2 is that there is no wireless carplay support out of the box and that will require a dongle, I'm planning to also add TPMS and DAB also as well get the original OEM camera working. I am tempted by the prospect of a 360 camera but that is far too much work for me at the moment. 

After some perseverance, limited support from XTRONS and messing around with the CANBUS settings I've managed to get this working! I'll need to go about doing some splicing to get the OEM reverse camera working with the car but I'll report back my findings on doing that when I get time. 

1 hour ago, SeanR said:

Appears to be a nut/bolt and not a clip

FFS, only gone and borrowed my socket set to my dad that lives 15 miles away, 🤬

 

Always happens

Ah that’s a shame if you were local I’d have lent you mine! I took my IS250 2010 f sport bumper off when fitting my VLANDS and it can be a pain in the *****, socket set is all you pretty much need though 

On 4/14/2022 at 8:02 PM, Ben774 said:

I searched the forum but nothing came up. Any of you had no low oil pressure after a filter change? 2ad fhv engine, didn't prime the filter because it's a side-loading cartridge. Are the oil pumps prone to fail at all?

I did have my IS250 with Lexus nottingham and they advised me to top up my oil by 0.5L, 2nd gen IS’s are known to go through oil so they need oil top ups from time to mine so may be worth checking if that’s needing to be done. 
that being said I slammed my brakes quite hard yesterday (bedding new brake pads) and I noticed the low oil pressure sign came up for a moment so don’t know if that’s relevant. 

2 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Look up Saab Unleashed on YouTube. He's the best android head unit reviewer there is and he shows how to install. But bear in mind he only installs in saabs but you'll get a good idea how to wire it.

What do you mean the full screen version won't work in your car? Full screen version of what?

I shall do Vlad cheers for the advice. In terms of the Teyes,  there are two distinct versions of the Teyes CC3, one is a full 10.1 inch screen and the other is a smaller version with traditional style buttons. The only one that would work with my facelift IS250 is the smaller button version and apparently the left hand side buttons don’t work either so that just seems similar to the GROM for me 

Just now, Mr Vlad said:

Great news Bilal. Tut tut though forgetting a caliper bolt? Didn't that produce a problem when driving?

Slight knocking noise but brakes seemed to work fine, I put that down to all the tools and what not in my car haha. Thanks Vlad!

Car came back from Lexus, no issues with the brakes from what they could tell aside from a calliper bolt I forgot to put back on! 
They recommended changing the brake discs out and getting anti squeal shims for the front brakes which appear to be missing, I assume the last garage who did my MOT may have misplaced them but despite all the hassle my diy brake maintenance was a success. 

Want to thank everyone who chimed know and provided some help, I feel quite confident looking at my brakes and I’ll be keeping an eye on those callipers to ensure they don’t seize up!!

Hey everyone

After the demise of my USB input and Lexus no being able to diagnose it, I picked up an XTRONS android head unit to replace my GROM and for the life of me I can’t figure out how to wire it up. As mine is a 2010 facelift mine came with an additional harness to integrate with my mark Levinson audio. 

Anyone have any experience wiring these android head units up? My second harness mostly plugs into all the connectors from the factory but my original harness which has the CANBUS I can’t figure out how to wire that directly into the unit.

The result is non working audio, air conditioning not behaving correctly and various other minor issues. 

This is the unit I purchased, I considered a Teyes CC3 however as mine is a facelift vehicle the full screened version doesn’t work with my car.

https://xtrons.co.uk/lexus-various-android-10-octa-core-4gb-ram-64gb-rom-integrated-4g-solution-pma10isl

https://xtrons.co.uk/lexus-various-iso-wiring-harness-most

Hi Stephen, I had the same predicament on this before I purchased my own VLAND headlights.  

On a very technical basis it will not pass an MOT due to the DRL being run at a fixed current and not dimming down when the headlights are turned on. However, it does very much depend on the garage you take it to as they can take a pragmatic or laid back approach and not fail it for this reason. I have my MOT due in September so I can only let you know if it passes then. The garage I take my car to is a Lexus specialist and while Lexus and previous MOT's advised I had corrosion or grease on my brake pipes, he advised this wasn't an issue and was common with high mileage vehicles so fingers crossed he doesnt have an issue with my VLANDS!

The legal way around this is to wire up the DRL to a different fuse or a relay and this would allow them to shut off when the low beams are turned on. This video linked below is a good example.

Small update for everyone, the horrible grinding noise has been resolved but it turns out it was the dust shield for the brakes making contact with the discs! I’ve bent it out of the way with some pliers and that seems to have resolved the issue.

Following on from the advice of everyone else here however my car is at Lexus to fix an issue with my radio but I’ve asked them to take a look at the brakes also for good measure. Will report whatever the outcome is.

here is the video that helped me diagnose the issue, the grinding sound was the exact same one I had. 

First of all thanks everyone for the kind words they're greatly appreciated! I'd love to be able to sort the problem myself but as my week off comes to an end I cant spend any more time faffing around with the car so itll likely go to a garage tomorrow if possible. 

3 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Right Bilal. That photo of the rear caliper and disc. Just to clarify. Was that photo taken After you did anything to the caliper and drove the car or was the photo taken during what you did with the caliper. 

The grinding noise file doesn't work but I suspect the grinding noise is down to the condition of that disc. It's knackered. 

Was it the drivers side caliper you inadvertently dislodged the piston from the caliper? It may be a good idea to buy a refurbished caliper because even though you pushed the piston back in the possibility of dust getting in is just too high. 

Get two new discs. Get a refurbished caliper for the drivers side. You know what you're doing its just you've lost confidence because of a failure. You've learned from that.

Looking again at the photo. A new pad will wear unevenly on that current disc. There's far too much rusty area compared to 'shiny' area.

It's fun doing brakes isn't it? 

That photo was taken before I messed around with the calliper, this disc looked rather rough from the start and compared to the passenger side that looks much better with no signs of rust or major use. And yes It was the driver side piston that got dislodged so you could be right about the dust, I'm hoping I won't need to shell out for a new calliper that will not be a fun prospect but If it needs doing... 🙄 I did spot some nice brembo discs on Auto Doc but itll take too long for those to arrive I reckon so I'll see what a garage has to say regarding the grinding noise. 

4 hours ago, Shahpor said:

You have probably already considered this, but do you have a acquaintance that you might persuade to come over and help you with your brake problem?

The reason I say this is that if you drop the car off to a mechanic they will fix it for you, but you won't learn anything.  If someone comes to help (even a friendly mobile mechanic), you have the opportunity to observe or perhaps ask a few questions that could be useful the next time you attempt to tackle a similar situation.

Well done for trying though.

My girlfriends dads best mate is a mechanic so he did offer to come take a look at the car once I hit the initial snag with the pads, however I don't think he'd be able to take a look til next week now so it might have to be a case of chatting with the mechanic once the car gets looked at! 

5 hours ago, Razor61 said:

Hey, you live and learn! We are right, trust what we say😉

As said by Spock66, tackling jobs yourself is good and can save money so credit for giving it a go. Unknown to you though, you picked on the wrong job to start doing. Doing the rear brakes on an IS250 can turn out to be an involved PITA job and cost a few quid even when you have experience and know what you are doing. That can apply to most older cars when doing the brakes as well though, if they are not in good condition and sorted already.

Haha thats true, I like to try and do most things myself only resorting to professionals when required. I was vaguely aware that the brakes for the IS were notorious for being a pain but only after going through the hassle myself do I realise how bad it was haha. 

4 hours ago, is200 Newbie said:

..... also, not sure if you know ... there are brake shoes that operate in the discs themselves and although these generally dont wear as quick as the pads themselves, it may be worth asking the garage to check them out also just to put a stake in the sand to say that the shoes are not the issue. They dont have a lot of meat on them and thats normal. 

I'll certainly give this a mention to the mechanic, depending if the Lexus specialist I take my car to is available I'll either take it down the road or to the pretty decent one down the road from me! 

38 minutes ago, Razor61 said:

As above and what I have advised a couple of times, get it to a mechanic or someone who is experienced who can help and can do the job.
I don’t want to worry you but I suspect you will need new pads again, new discs, new/refurbished caliper assemblies and possibly new parking brake shoes once the discs are removed.
 

I reckon you may be right, I’ll have to arrange taking it to a garage. I had a week off to do some DIY and other work so thought I could tackle the job myself 😂

3 minutes ago, Razor61 said:

Judging by the condition of the disc in the picture, I would have replaced the rear discs and pads after sorting out the seized caliper sliders. That is what I would do or would have done. There is some info below which may help you but, as I've said before, I think you should get things checked out by a mechanic or someone who has done this sort of thing before.

I presume you mean the 'pad' guide pins not the 'caliper' slider pins that are normally seized? in the picture the 'pad' guide pins are missing an these are the pins that have the holes in them.

Information which may help:

Caliper slider pins that rust and seize up, top one unscrews and the bottom one, with the yellow arrow, is fixed to the caliper support bracket.
removing the top slider pin allows the caliper to be swung out of the way so you can replace the disc (if it's not seized of course and this is one that normally seizes)

Pad guide pins

Components for for the pads etc that should be present, the anti squeal shims look to be missing

Thanks for the info, it may well be worth seeing a mechanic although I don’t know if it’s brake related as such because the noise comes from driving and when I hit the brakes no noises at all and they work well. I have heard of shims but I didn’t know it was a requirement to get them as I figured the brake pads alone would be fine.
 

in terms of the calliper, yes I did mean the slider pin and have now freed it as that was seized up. The huge amount of heat coming from the wheel has now gone but I don’t know if the grinding noise is normal or not. 

i record a quick audio clip of the noise if that helps, happens when driving and reversing. 
 

Grinding noise driver side rear .zip

Small update for everyone, I ordered the clip and despite it looking different to my existing one I lost I managed to fit it on. The sliding bolts for the calliper have holes in them which this pin fits into rather than wedging behind sliding bolts  and the the middle brake pad hole. Unfortunately two new issues have now become apparent.

Upon driving the car with the window down yesterday I noticed an almost burning smell, I took a look at the calliper on the driver side I didn’t need to unseize and it looks like upon changing the brake pads it’s completely seized up. There was a large amount of heat coming from the rotor / wheel compared to the other three. 

This morning I’ve took a hammer to the calliper for a good 20 minutes and managed to free it up, regrease all the components for it and fitted it back on no problem. 

After that I’ve just taken the car for a quick drive with the window down and noticed a horrible grinding noise on the very same driver side rear brake, to say I’m not annoyed is an understatement! I’m thinking it could be the rotor because compared to the passenger side this one looked extremely worn out and rusty in comparison. But to my knowledge this wasn’t happening yesterday so it could be something I’ve missed?

As far as I know it didn’t do this yesterday but I did get caught in some rain when sorting the calliper out, so I managed to get a bin bag over the whole disc and wiped away the water droplets that did get on. 

here’s a photo I took of it during the last few days. anyone have any indication what it could be? 
 

EDIT: Took the wheel off again to investigate, can’t see any issues with the brake pads, maybe it’s because the calliper I’ve now freed the calliper it’s making the noise?  Provided a recording with my Iphone hanging out the driver side window 

Grinding noise IS250.zip

I could be wrong but I believe you may need Toyota tech stream to enable options like this, my 2010 IS250 F Sport does the auto locking when you reach a certain speed and perhaps when you put it into Park it unlocks the car.

If that is the case you'd need to get one of those OBD VCI cables to plug into the vehicle as well as a windows laptop, if you'd rather not part with £40/50 for one of those you're welcome to pop down and use mine haha. 

Success! A big thanks to everyone, following on from the advice about bleeding the brakes I did the rear passenger side and then rear driver side. I didnt bother with trying to bleed the front brakes as they weren't touched =. My suspicion was correct that there was alot of air in the rear drivers side brakes. After this the car seems to be braking as it should, it seems a tad less firmer than it was before but I'll put that down to bedding the brakes in. Within 50 miles or so should do from what I've read up. I was careful to make sure the brake fluid was topped up to max but I only needed to use very little in the end. 

Unfortunately I did make one blunder, it seems I've managed to lose one of the brake pad clips for the rear passenger side, Doh! I had it in a magnetic parts tray alongside all the other bits to make sure it didnt get lost or misplaced, however the only thing I can think of that it was a very windy day when I started doing this so it may have flown off somewhere beyond my driveway.

Thankfully its only the top clip and not the one at the bottom so I could get away with it however I'm ordering a new one for good measure from Lexus to make sure there are no issue as I did notice theres a slight noise coming from the rear passenger side, could be the brake pads Im guessing. 

Edit: Managed to get the clip ordered via Lexus Nottingham for £7 and should be here by the morning! 

Just now, Razor61 said:

Quote: ‘It’s worth noting I did have quite a lot of fluid come out of the Piston on the driver side’

That is a bit worrying because you shouldn’t have any fluid coming out of the piston or the caliper area at all.

I think that happened because the piston was completely out of the calliper  and the rubber gasket seal wasn't covering up the edges, I ended up sorting this by pushing it back in by hand and it seemed to be fine after that. The passenger side I didn't have any issue with that happening with the Piston so I suspect I may have loosened it up accidentally! 

Thanks for the guidance everyone, I'll head to Halfords and get one of those Brake Bleeding kits and give it a go in the morning! 

3 minutes ago, LexusRbest said:

If the pads wore down they may have dropped fluid level so low that air got sucked inside the master cylinder.

unlikely but possible.

also possible that piston came so far out of caliper it let air in, also unlikely but possible

I suspect it may have been this as I noticed the piston on the driver side was pretty much misaligned and letting out quite a bit of fluid. As I didn’t touch the front brakes would it be necessary to bleed those also or shall I just stick with the rear brakes? If I recall I believe you have to do it in a sequence furthest away from the driver seat.

11 minutes ago, LexusRbest said:

Dude, when people post help on here at least read the answers!!!!

You were told the fluid might overflow!

it is over full now

look for the max line on the resevoir.

glad you got your pads in, remember and collect Brake pad fitters T shirt and be ready for next problem your car throws at you, remember utube is your friend!

Apologies I had a typo I meant the piston not the reservoir 😂 I did keep an eye on the fluid and it didn’t seem to overflow or go beyond the max line from what I can see. So not quite sure why the brakes are spongey, could be air or does the fluid need topping up? 

Hi everyone, first of all thank you so much for the guidance it’s been greatly appreciated! I’ve managed to get the new pads on. It took a combination of completely depressing the piston and feeling up the sliding pins as they were quite seized up. The right driver side seemed to accommodate the pads fine after depressing the piston however the left one required me to remove the Aldi of pins, grease them up and put them back in. Even that wasn’t enough and I had to bash the back of the pins with a hammer to give just about enough room to get the left hand pads in.

one thing I’ve noticed however is my brakes seem to be very spongey upon use, no squeal but I suspect the brakes need to be bedded / broken in? It’s worth noting I did have quite a lot of fluid come out of the Piston on the driver side so will I need to top up the brake fluid for the car?

Hey guys

Noticed my rear brakes were squealing like anything, so bought some brembo brake pads from Euro Car Parts and took the time to try and fit them myself. There were many well documented videos on how to do this so thought it’d be fairly simple. Unfortunately I cannot seem to get my pads to fit. There seems to be plenty clearance for the inner pad however for the outer one there is not enough room for me to fit a pad in there. I have depressed the pistons in as much as I can by hand but no matter what I do there doesn’t seem to be a way for me to get clearance for the outer calliper to accommodate the brake pads. I tried this for the driver side and I got very frustrated thinking I may have messed something up, however I took the time today to look at the passenger side and it’s the same situation there. 
The old pads are extremely worn down so they’re skinny enough to fit into the calliper. 

I don’t know if this is a calliper issue as I do know these seizing up is a common thing and until it’s sorted I won’t be able to drive the car. Can anyone provide any guidance for this? I’ve not been able to take many photos but here are the few I did.

One is showing the clearance I have for the calliper on the left being non existent but plenty on the right. And im comparing the thicknesses of the old pad versus the new one.

45 minutes ago, Herbie said:

It seems that Chrome and Bitdefender are complaining about the web address above. All it is, is that the certificate has run out and the domain host hasn't renewed it, but I can vouch for the guy at LPGC and I trust him implicitly.

Try Firefox, which still complains about the out of date certificate but lets you carry on to http://lpgc.co.uk/

Haha thanks for providing the alternate link Herbie! I run Safari myself so explains why the website works perfectly for me 

I''ve been looking into this for a while, from what I gathered once upon a time you couldn't LPG convert a direct injection vehicle. However modern systems like PRINS can do this and I have seen around 3 LPG Converted IS250's in the wild. I'd take it to a reputable place, one place a member on the forum recommended was these guys.

http://lpgc.co.uk/index_files/Page743.htm

I'm going to see how the fuel situation is and if its still bad next year I will bite the bullet and get a conversion done. 

I had this situation with my mums IS250C, her tyre punctured but instead of using the expensive and very overpriced repair kit I brought my spare wheel from my own IS250 and used that. 

After this incident I was able to source a spare wheel for £50 or so and it does fit into the IS250C space, the only thing is the original storage tray will not fit in without some modifying it. Try and see if you can get a wing nut and spare wheel from a breaker as your IS250C will come with with a jack and spanner.