McShmoopy

On 10/19/2022 at 11:33 PM, AFlex said:

Are you sure about this? The photos of the reverse screen that Ahmed has shared seem to show a totally different reverse video screen, not the stock one. So does it even matter what the settings were before you switched to a new navigation unit?

For what it's worth, i actually like the stock reverse screen and the way that it shows your trajectory based on steering wheel angle - so I hope you're right!

Hi Mate, Ahmed has chosen to change the camera out and not use the OEM stock one provided, you can use the original OEM Camera as it involves either a harness (or with mine splicing a cable or two) however until someone can confirm and check this I don't think you can use the touch screen input on the reverse camera screen for the extra features like parallel park assist and what not.

To be fair I was experiencing this for quite some time, I found that the batteries I ordered from amazon were the main cause. I believe the key fobs operate on a 3V CR123 Battery and over time if the Battery has been sitting around in storage they lose their voltage and drop to 2.9V. When that happens the key fobs tend to misbehave, not unlocking or locking properly even via keyless entry. 

Best way around this is go to Halfords or any retail store directly and get a Battery from there. Their batteries arent stored there for months and months unlike amazon so good chance thatll resolve your unstable key fob, this seemed to work for me.

I did get some RF interference one time on my estate when they were doing phone line works and had to park my car on the driveway else I couldn't open it unless I used the key blade! 

Just now, Mr Vlad said:

Sounds like an electrical interference. Maybe a dodgy connection to do with the android headunit you fitted recently? Try one of those in-line radio interference thingy's (forget what they're called) or if you have one already fitted then remove it. 

I had similar when I put a Bluetooth adapter in my car. Put one of those in-line interference things on and it whined but when I removed it no whine. 

That's good to know cheers Vlad, I've been meaning to get behind there and organise it as there is a LARGE mess of cables back there! 

44 minutes ago, H3XME said:

To be honest, I was never gonna advertise the car for sale as it had too many miles on. I really enjoyed it and I didn't think I'd ever get the kind of money I'd expect for it. However, somebody messaged me asking if I'd sell the car, and I said yeah, sure.. £4k takes it. If not, I'm keeping it as I don't really want / need to sell it. And to my surprise he said YES. It was a bittersweet moment when he came to get the car from Kent, but at that point I had an eye on Nissan 300ZX.. I guess I just wanted to scratch the itch for a 90s jap car again. However the Nissan fell through as it was rusty and then I noticed the Toyota Mark II with 1JZ engine for sale near me. That's absolute immaculate so I put my deposit down and now I'm just waiting for DVLA to register the car (fresh Jap import)/ send the logbook so I can take it home from the dealer. Whether I'll enjoy the ownership of that as much as I enjoyed the IS250, I don't know. Maybe not, but it's a cool car in my opinion and I will always get the money back for it should I decide to sell it as the value of those cars keeps going up. I'm currently car sharing and I really miss the IS250. It just did everything I wanted from it, so I think that until I can manual convert the Mark II, I will have to learn to love the automatic life for a bit. At least it's got pillar-less windows.. that's the coolest feature on a 4 door saloon haha. If I don't get on with it, I might just sell after a few months and buy IS350 

That’s fair enough mate, I did spot a IS350 Jap import on Facebook marketplace and was almost tempted but I’m very happy with my IS250 for the time being, just not at the petrol pump haha. Those old school toyotas look sweet and looks like you’ve bagged a good example! Hope you get many enjoyable miles out of this. 

On 10/11/2022 at 2:56 PM, H3XME said:

Car is now SOLD

Currently awaiting delivery of 1999 Toyota Mark II JZX100

That’s a shame I quite enjoyed following your IS250 build, what prompted the sale? 

Hey guys 

came across an odd issue I’ve noticed, when driving I get his occasional whine coming from somewhere in the car and it comes and goes. Anyone have any idea what this is? I’ve attached a video showing this 

5 hours ago, DarkoDarko said:

I preferred the drive in the facelift over the older model and ended up buying the Advance, I will say it does not have as many gadgets as the Premier but its still a lovely car and has most of what I need. 

My only wish would be Apple car play but alas its not available on my model

 

 

Cheers for the advice mate, I am ending up with the advance, although I will be retrofitting apple CarPlay into the CT200H as my first point of call when I get it! Will let you know how I get on with that

2 hours ago, Las Palmas said:

You can get a lot of info here:

 

Thanks that has really helped actually, I think I will be going for the Advanced as it has more things that I would largely benefit from. 

1 hour ago, royoftherovers said:

Premier would be better.

Premier would be my preference but not within my budget unfortunately haha 

2 hours ago, Moleman said:

Assuming you have driven both and are going to be happy with the difference to your current car, I would go with the 2016 Advance. 

Cheers Maurice, I've driven a CT200h before when my car has been with the Lexus dealer and they're pleasant enough to drive. I'm looking to start saving some money and as much as I love my IS250 the price of petrol is getting a bit silly so I'm looking to get something more economical, I was leaning more towards the Advance myself! 

Hi Guys

I'm considering two different Ct200h's and I wanted to get peoples opinions, which would be the better option to go with? I'm coming from a near enough fully loaded IS250 (F Sport) so do appreciate the creature comfort's of it such as electronic memory seats and the premium audio but wanted to know what would be the better spec'd Ct200h. The SE-L is a non navi one so no in screen entertainment (I'd consider adding my own aftermarket android unit) but the Advance has largely everything you'd need such as the screen and reverse camera. 

4 hours ago, ClassyKidder said:

Hello! So I've recently changed my car battery on my IS220D 2009 model, some of the memory was reset such as seats but no radio or nav was reset. However I have just noticed that the side door floor foot panels where the lexus logo would be is not lighting up anymore as well as the interior lights when u unlock the car or open the door as they would turn on but none of that is happening anymore.. Is there a quick fix/reset for this? Has anyone else encountered this before? I'd much appreciate any help on this thanks!

Seems like a silly question, but have you pressed the door button next to the courtesy lights? That can disable all interior LED's when the doors are open. 

1 hour ago, Mr Vlad said:

What additive Bilal? I've seen some additives but they cost around £20. I worked it out and found it cheaper to use E5. As for Injectors the additive I use cleans them good. Millers ecomax petrol. Recommend to all car owners. (Petrol and diesel)

Wrynns E10, I found that by using any ethanol stablising additive my Mpg returns to acceptable to levels. It’s not the cheapest as I pick it up from Halfords but I plan on ordering some Mannol Ester E10 additive in bulk off eBay as it’s absolute pennies that way 

Did a trip to Manchester airport from Nottingham with a services break in between and managed to achieve a respectable 41.8mpg, this is with E10 fuel with my E10 additive from Halfords. I was previously using cruise control at 80 mph but that really tanks the economy so did it exactly on 70mph (translates to around 64mph in reality with Waze)

I reckon if I were to give the injectors a good clean more could possibly be achieved. 

13 minutes ago, Nawaz said:

Thank you McShmoopy. I think they are awesome vehicles. Such a joyful drive and refined ride. 

Anyhow I appreciate the time you taken to reply and will be taking it to a local Indy Lexus Specialst near Keighley, closest one near to me and get her checked out.

Once again guys I really appreciate your advice and insight. 

 

No worries, let us know how you get on! I love the look of the 2011+ facelifts but I really wanted the memory seats functions which only came with the early facelifts from 2009 to early 2011. 

2 hours ago, Nawaz said:

Hi guys.

 

New to the forum. Yet not new to the lexus IS models. I have owned a 2002 IS200 Sport which sadly was hit and written off. So upgraded to IS250 F Sport on a 2012 year. With 54k miles and 2 previous owners. 

I haven't had to long and am somewhat in need of help and or advice. The car makes a click / knock noise when at slow speed and turning left only. I have gone back to the dealer. Not a Lexus dealer. Who has said "all new Lexus vehicles make this noise as it it electronic steering" I think that is a load of BS as my 02 never made this noise yet it was a proper steering pump with oil. 

Can anyone confirm this or tell me otherwise? The click noise is that a trait of the 2nd gen IS or is that bull? 

Any info would be greatly appreciated and would help me massively. I thank you guys for your time in advance. Thanks.

Pic of my IS250 F Sport as well.

Congrats on the 2012 IS, shes a beaut! Im a 2010 F Sport owner myself and there definitely isnt a clicking noise as standard. Would indicate a lose part or something amiss, may be worth taking to a Lexus specialist as the dealerships vary largely in quality depending on your location. 

Sorry to revive a very old thread, but thought it may be worth people knowing. Fitted VLAND headlights and the HCMotion tail lights to my vehicle last year and its now gone for its first MOT with these on and it seems to have flown on by without issue. I have actually adjusted these ever so slightly higher than the OEM Lexus HID Headlights (compared against my mums IS250C with auto levelling) and it seems to have gone through fine. No modifications have been made to the VLANDS, they've been wired in as you'd expect them to be as the instructions dictate.  

While the VLANDS may technically fail due to the DRL not dimming, if you take your car to a decent garage who take a pragmatic approach to MOT's you shouldn't have an issue really getting these through. 

4 hours ago, SteL said:

Hi, thank you that’s extremely helpful.

I’ll go with the T’eyes CC3 unit (128GB-B) + a few of the add on’s (tyre pressure and DAB+ USB monitors).  Hopefully that will enhance the entertainment and functionality systems to what I would like the car to provide.

As you rightly point out, the Amazon Echo Auto, should work from the aux if I can’t connect it directly to the unit, but it works from a USB port so again I can’t see any issue.

Not too sure on the splicing, never attempted that before, as I said I am a total novice.  If need be I’ll give it a go 😬.

Thanks again, greatly appreciated.

No worries mate, let me know how you get on! I'd say get the Teyes branded stuff as it will integrate nicely with the headunit, you can get any aftermarket android one but it will need its own App and the main selling point of the Teyes is that their own software is very intuitive and integrates nicely.  

Splicing isnt too difficult but having the right tools and connectors makes it a doddle, If I get around to doing this myself I shall document the process. I need to get around to adding TPMS , sort out my 360 reverse camera system and possibly DAB also still. 

5 hours ago, SteL said:

Hi, I recently read and watched McShmoopy’s review of the Xtrons head unit for the IS250 and found it really informative as I’m thinking of also replacing my stock head unit. However, reading down the thread I became aware of the T’eyes CC3 which I think is more suited to my needs.  
I’m no expert, basic novice is more akin to my electronic know how, but I’d appreciate advice from any CC3 owners concerning compatibility of the Mark Levinson sound system, original rear view camera and Amazon Echo Auto  and what version of the CC3 I require. 
I’ve contacted T’eyes support who have reassured me of the Mark Levinson sound system, but not the rear view camera or Echo Auto.
I have a 2007 pre-facelift model with Navigation and I’m reasonably comfortable that the CC3 128GB-B is the unit I require but without removing the head unit and inspecting the rear as T’eyes suggest, I’m still a little unsure if anyone can help.

Hi Steve, I spoke to Ahmed alot about the Teyes on Instagram and vice versa with my headunit. Unlike my XTRONS the Teyes team provide a handy harness specific to your year of vehicle and if its a NAVI or not. I am unsure if like mine the Teyes can access the original Mark Levinson settings (Such as EQ, surround sound, sound leveller) as it is a CANBUS profile setting but failing this the Teyes has much  parametric EQ controls and compression options anyways so I wouldnt be particularly concerned. Your reverse camera will be able to be fitted by using a specific harness which I believe theyll include. I've had a look on the Teyes website and it looks like it will be the B option you need as that is pre facelift, if you had a 2010 like myself you'd opt for the A option.

The only thing you will probably need to do is splice one of the Steering wheel control cables if you want to program them as they are fixed and can't be changed. I haven't gotten around to this but Ahmed has done this quite successfully, there are two different SWC cables but you only need to splice one which controls MODE, Hang Up, Answer Call, and Voice Control as Volume Up / Down, Skip Track and Previous track work as expected. 

Only thing I think you may have an issue with this head unit, you will not be able to access the OEM parking assist settings like adjusting the distance of your parking sensors or the Parallel park assist as you have to press the touch screen on the reverse camera input but don't quote me on that. I'd get your OEM settings to the following before you swap the head units incase these options are no longer accessible. 

Audio Settings for all channels set to default. 

Volume to 30.

Reverse camera sensor distance. 

Reverse camera setup as you like it, (type of lines and view etc).

EDIT: Never used an Echo Auto however you should be able to retain the AUX connection and the Teyes has a Bluetooth connection built in, I'd probably suggest you get one of the faclifted USB / AUX connector and replace your standard AUX connector with that as well as a USB cable so that you can conveniently have a USB port that goes direct to the head unit in the centre console storage. My facelift car had this as standard but you can retrofit it into older IS's, I'll include the cable I got to plug it in also. I'm sure you could slip in a very long USB extension cable instead but having things look OEM is pretty snazzy 😏

https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-is-phase-2-usb-aux-wire/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353878702681?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=66a6b3f1431b4c7ba849dd22fb434505&bu=43575022862&osub=-1~1&crd=20220304050745&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

I got a road angel dash cam and the fitment was fairly easy, I do agree getting out the fuses was a BLOODY nightmare.  Fuse removal tool will not work either as they’ve been lodged in there likely the age of the car, long pair of needle nose pliers (I’m training to be a sparky so I’ve got a nice set to hand) is all you’ll need to persuade the fuse out.

I myself have hardwired the dash cam for the parking mode functionality and for the clean aesthetic also, but I would highly reccomend hard wiring it as it can be done without depleting the Battery totally.  That being said the one time you may need it is when you don’t have that facility, so better to have it and not need it!
 

If you need some help fitting drop me a message or take a look at my post about it.

2 hours ago, CiaranMcK said:

Hi,

 

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but since installing the WALD spoiler my boot has been absolutely smashing down.

 

Did you just buy the standard SGS is250 struts, or struts intended for a different car, and where did you get the springs? I want to order the exact same combo, then will probably do kick open too. 

 

Thanks!

The SGS Struts are enough with my stock Stock F Sport Spoiler to lift with the finger, the auto opening with mine is thanks to those springs. I have the medium strength ones but to ensure you get a strong boot open action you could try heavy strength springs instead. I've outlined this in my post here 

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/127859-black-is250-f-sport-basic-mods-and-tweaks-d/?do=findComment&comment=1230442&_rid=67857

A fellow LOC member Ahmed ended up purchasing the Teyes CC3 and its a fantastic piece of kit from what he's told me and shown me. Its superior to the XTRONS unit I had purchased so I'd highly recommend getting it. He'll be putting out a review video fairly soon but worth dropping him a message if youre interested in it sooner rather than later. 

3 hours ago, AFlex said:

Wow so it actually integrates really well! I imagine the Teyes is the same or even better given how good its software is.

Do you still get the beeping sound though?

One idea I've been toying with is adding a couple of additional sonar sensors on the front (I feel like 2 really isn't enough). This in addition to upgrading to the aftermarket 4IS style bumper 

Let me know how you get on with that! I’d love to do the same with adding an additional 2 sensors, and yes it still beeps just the same so in fairness the XTRONS does integrate very well, it’s just a case of my car being a facelift you will need slightly different harnesses and changes to the software which only the Teyes fully caters for from what I can tell 

9 hours ago, AFlex said:

How does the parking sensor functionality work with these aftermarket units? Does it still beep and appear on the screen when the sonar detectors pick up close objects?

Thanks

They work perfectly with both systems I believe, you can have parking sensors only show when reversing and when they work they are in the correct orientation for the car. Another option I’ve enabled is that when a parking sensor is triggered it pulls up the 360 parking camera view and the sensors are visualised, when I eventually get around to having the other 3 cameras installed this will let me see a 360 view of the car 

On 8/6/2022 at 3:46 PM, AFlex said:

Thanks Bilal

I am 99% set on getting the Teyes CC3 - just need to choose between the 2 versions

The 9" is definitely compatible.

The 10" also appears to be compatible for pre-2009 facelift models: (note the typo below - i think 2019 is supposed to say 2009)

@ahmed24 I'm just wondering what swayed you in the direction of the 9"? Did you prefer the OEM bezels look?

Glad this has helped! I always knew of the Teyes CC3 but it’s only recently that support for facelifted NAVI vehicles became available even with the Teyes, the XTRONS was the first I saw that had confirmed compatibility with facelifted vehicles but going back if I had the choice I’d certainly opt for the Teyes. The look I do agree is far better with the XTRONS but the only thing I’m missing really is native wireless apple carplay support as well as programming my right hand steering wheel controls

6 hours ago, AFlex said:

@ahmed24 nice unit. What made you get the 9 inch rather than the 10? The teyes website seems to suggest that for 2009 or earlier models with Nav, the 10 inch would be compatible - it only causes issues for later models with Nav.

 

Does the unit integrate properly with all the OEM components? Reverse camera, steering wheel buttons, microphone, ML stereo, etc?

 

Thanks!

From the conversations I’ve had with Ahmed yes the Teyes accommodates all OEM functionality unlike the XTRONS, just need the ensure when purchasing you pick the right options to receive all the correct harnesses