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McShmoopy

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Posts posted by McShmoopy

  1.  

    23 hours ago, H3XME said:

    I agree. I don't like smoked lights as it is, but if one is to get them, might as well get proper ones that are built to be smoked and legal.

    @McShmoopy In terms of reflectors.. mine are red, but my friend has the below smoked lights + those LED smoked reflectors and no issues. Food for thought. Tbh if you're not sure that your MOT guy will pass them, I'd buy £3 black tint foil on eBay and tint them yourself. Should it be a problem with MOT, just peel it off. The quickest fix. Otherwise the bumper has to come off to fit new reflectors.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133944912120

    image.thumb.png.b1e3aa9eaa1427c6a97db70d682a9f41.png

    That’s good to know regarding your friend, I may look to get those smoked LED reflectors although I may not necessarily wire them up but just use the reflector part. The inner LEDs should provide energy reflectivity but I’ll do some testing and see how I get on 👍🏼

  2. Hi everyone, hope you're well.

    I've never particularly liked the look of the rear reflectors on the back of the IS250 and aside from changing my bumper out to an IS F, one option I considered was smoking the reflectors but I'm not quite sure if these are road legal or not.

    The two options I've seen are just smoked black reflectors, and those with the LEDs in for the brake lights. I'm not a fan of the LEDs in the reflectors look but is that a way people keep it road legal? 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362298046780?epid=27018242011&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item545aa5793c:g:CkAAAOSwUtJiO1eH&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4CizaMAc2nBMv1tMUTfCP28%2Fj9hSlPL2nXf5ikZCPYHojV7HjxGX8KKVvZLeTo2%2FFhw7Z89J3NH30Dl1LsFLxJGWLql6f%2F78hixjcbCetzkxwl4SheyKDPQ4odcju92lWV6j324PErENAinTzJnVKQi3%2F1BPx%2BGL2nHmJaELTL2OS9x%2BX6sH7LuXej55fHuOm9vFueSpBsycfV5BR%2F3fXpKa3CR0usi8BbravM%2BZCplJiXOEGQ%2BGnCy3cjnMFSCgQ7uzXQsBFDaJqywWY6G6cZf0pZhoNA602WgFE0rfNPY0|tkp%3ABFBM6tODpf9f

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304109496924?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item46ce56aa5c:g:2jYAAOSwdK1hG2q1&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA8L6HcH2PKtUg3bG90sIGcoqIvp0S79MJofSvmN8QI8guqr6U2qsEz%2BhoPIpYQCra%2Bp33jl7oc6boehQFPHGcMJYUavtepQQot1fzC5LKZXZCCNBO5VeqZ6UsIFYZoYlCInxZCv2wx1N%2Fdqmr6lvlDX%2BXpQmxNvLQ23gnzIDFSAB5%2Fcsy1vRSReGMhIyu65v4PY6ZYfwH92P%2F8PxjQ6H14VznOCLJ15Aeu0XCoKWazFwEDHOWJs7UhDzaR3SCw7zmuLZ5tUOsLFFwFpPfG70sFLLec442LkM%2BwMw6jt4rA6uIvhz%2BsQX04cWul67M75SWxw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMlN6Gpf9f

    Does anyone here have any experience with this at all, any input would be greatly appreciated. 🙂

     

  3. 13 hours ago, Mister Rockets said:

    Well, folly or not, I bit the bullet and collected the car from Buxton on Saturday  and drove back to Bristol with my eldest riding shotgun and playing with the infotainment. A 2009 MY SE-L. Not completely without issue. A front parking sensor appears to be duff (parking sensors were switched off) and the o/s wing mirror behaves slightly erratically and clicks ominously suggesting an expensive repair is looming.

    However, I am not too disheartened and following a 3 hour return journey (better than the 8 hours it took to get there via public transport 😡), I emerged from the car feeling fresh-ish and pain-free which is always a bonus. Comfy car.

    It's my first Lexus experience and so far so good. There's a small PDR 'opportunity' otherwise the car appears to be in overall good mechanical order. Plenty of history (although do Halfords an KwikFit count🤔) and previous keeper had it for over 8 years. Hopefully it will last another 8.

     

    Screenshot_20220328-205305_eBay.jpg

    Congrats on the car it looks rather good! Unsure about the mirror but for the parking sensor try turning it off and on a few times and getting close to an object or have someone stand in front to activate it. When i picked up my mums is250C I noticed the parking sensors weren’t beeping as they had been turned off but it took a few minutes of messing around with them to get them operational 

    • Like 2
  4. I've got the smoked version of these fitted on my 2010 IS250 F Sport, aside from the lack off weather seals on them they work wonderfully and look very slick. Not had to do anything with the resistors as any facelift car has the LED tail lights as standard so this shouldn't result in any engine lights or errors occurring. 

  5. 11 hours ago, ahmed24 said:

    Ever since I saw the concave design of the newest style start buttons, i've been on a mission looking for it secondhand. I prefer the hybrid blue version as the colour on that is really nice and goes with my blue theme. I really like the amount of depth the new design button has. It's really hard to find these buttons second hand as they are very new. The non-hybrid version is silver in colour and also looks really nice. I was lucky enough to be able to source 2 second hand hybrid ones from Lithuania for just under £50 GBP and with a very light polish made them look brand new. 

    Unfortunately the buttons are not direct plug and play. The new design button has completely different connector and number of pins. The PCB design is also different. So, since I really wanted this, I set out to convert my 2is button and below are some pics of my end product that I wanted to share. There is also a video demo which shows the backlight and colour sequence. Really pleased with how it turned out. Button looks, feels and works exactly like OEM

    20220319_144735.thumb.jpg.83ec87f36c97107a58e7e657fba96453.jpg

    DSC06612.thumb.JPG.c6ff93b0547587b032c8f1806704d6c2.JPG

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    DSC06608.thumb.JPG.240de37e1980af139323b0154ea0047e.JPG

    DSC06609.JPG

     

    Looks impeccable Ahmed, all your tasteful mods have probably given you the best 2IS in the country! 

    • Like 2
  6. 47 minutes ago, H3XME said:

    Coming along nicely, just needs some good pics of the outside 😉

    Cheers mate, honestly the weather has been so bad and I've had so little time to clean the car so it does look horrendous! I'm planning on doing some paint correction and applying a ceramic coating in the future so when that happens it'll definitely be photoshoot time. 😏

  7. Onto the final major mod I've done recently, you'll notice in the above photo I managed to fit some VLAND headlights and this was done quite some months ago in October. Unfortunately I ordered some VLAND tail lights to go alongside these and to this day I have still yet to receive them! I'm currently needing to chase those up but in the meantime I spotted a new set of tail lights on the market in America and China, namely the HC Motion Tail Lights. What was special about these was not only did it have an animation when the headlights come on, but they were also sequential indicators unlike the VLAND tail lights. There is a cool little comparison video of all the tail lights lights available for the second gen IS  I'll link below. 

    After I spotted this I managed to order them from Ali Express and I received them a few days ago. Took around 2 months for shipping from China and I opted for the Smoked versions as I figured with a black car these would look great. I won't bore you with the details of how to fit them, but I will include videos from Tuner with Kids for the tail lights and Marty Motoring for the VLANDS in terms of how the fitting was done. 

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003445550208.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802awR4Qt

    I did attempt to add some T shaped weather seal for the HC motion tail lights as they don't come with that, however the ones I purchased were a catastrophic fail. The original adhesive on this T shaped seal was too weak, so I used my own 3M foam backed adhesive and it ended up way too thick for the tail lights outer potion so I ended up peeling it back off. Most people tend to remove the seals from the OEM tail lights but I didnt want to as this may affect their resale value and incase I had to revert back to them. All this means is that grime and water can accumulate in that area making it more difficult to clean, as far as I'm aware this shouldn't cause any long standing issues or damage to the tail lights. In any case I will have to revisit this when I get time.

     IMG_6763.thumb.jpeg.c3fcafc74c258695f0e9a0001d6d7e1f.jpegIMG_6762.thumb.jpeg.a73cba1737761bb5509883732c300df8.jpegIMG_6761.thumb.jpeg.05925f2aa8a6878e5cf65cde57400aa5.jpegIMG_6760.thumb.jpeg.8419a994e6b925beac3010ecf262865f.jpegIMG_6759.thumb.jpeg.dc302bbe913a9631207a88d9fca065c5.jpeg

    After wasting a few hours I managed to fit the HC motion tail lights with relative ease, it is rather fiddly and far less stressful than fitting the original VLAND headlights but the results are fantastic. I'll include the footage of my fitment of the VLAND headlights also. 

       

    Overall both the combo of these headlights and tail lights really helps to modernise the look of the 2IS, the only other thing you could do is a bumper conversion but not only is it quite expensive it does require alot of prep in terms of painting and what not. 

    The HC Motions depending on your year of vehicle may require the usage of resistors, the reason being that in an older vehicle without LED tail lights you can have all sorts of error codes thrown up such as VSC check engine light etc, HC motion thankfully throw these in for you but as my car is a facelift vehicle with the newer LED tail lights this wasn't a requirement for me. The only other prep as I mentioned earlier are the weather seal gaskets which you will need to add on yourself. The boot lid portion still has the gaskets I left on however this is quite noticeable so I will come back to this and redo all the seals then possible. 

    Out of the box the VLANDs do require adjustment of their beams as this doesnt have auto levelling in them compared to the OEM headlights, not to mention AFS will not work so a fuse will need to be pulled to remove that error. The adjustment can be made without dismantling the entire bumper if required, the bolt that is responsible for the height adjustment can be accessed from above with a fairly long flathead and rotating the gear like grooves will increase or decrease the height. Mine could do with further adjusting but that'll be done when I have a bit more free time. Overall the light output seems to be better than the HIDs my car came with but the high beam is a little weak, thankfully I dont need it all that often so its a tradeoff for better aesthetics. 

    • Like 3
  8. Since my accident, I noticed my front and rear plates were a little mismatched and my OCD naturally kicking in I felt the need to replace these. On top of this I always found the oversized plate provided by Lexus for the back never looked quite right. I took the opportunity to order some fresh Aluminium pressed plates from https://www.number1plates.com/ . They were reasonably priced and I managed to get a few pounds off and they arrived a few days after. 

    I also wanted to get a number plate surround as I hated the look of the number plate screws and wanted to have something cleaner. I have noticed that people have many different branded Number Plate surrounds and there was one available for Lexus's too, however I never really took to that as it had the additional L logos which I didn't think were necessary or symmetrical. I'll link that below incase anyone Is interested in it. 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174213889416?hash=item288ff4fd88:g:UiIAAOSwr9BfHAz8

    This one I did spot on eBay and it really caught my eye for obvious reasons.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323883042039

    It had the F sport motif, it wasn't too in your face and I liked the simplicity to it. Once ordered it arrived a few days later and it was onto fitting it alongside my new pressed plates. 

    Unfortunately I didnt quite read the instructions and I managed to break the tabs a little on the new surround, Doh! Aside from that getting the rear plates on was extremely difficult as the original plastic screws broke off and I ended up drilling new holes. There was alot of adhesive stuck behind the old plates so it required alot of persuasion to eventually get it off and the new surround on. With the front I had to break the old plate just to get it off as one of the screw heads managed to break off also. This was easier to secure however as it just took a 10mm screw / nut. 

    IMG_6816.thumb.jpeg.882551dc9f94b20ba12b004e16725ed0.jpeg979570786_IMG_68151.thumb.jpg.8b9cf8f039dc182baa01d873a902bc2c.jpg

    Once on they looked absolutely great, you can just about notice where I broke the number plate surrounds but its not worth me ordering a replacement! I'll perhaps get some plastic weld or super glue and sort that out when I get a few moments spare... At the very least if I need to swap the plates it is a heck of alot easier in the future, plus I think they look far smarter and cleaner. 

    • Like 1
  9. Few other things I got done for the car, one long overdue thing was a dashcam. I had a cheapo cheap and cheerful Chinese dash cam but I had a few issues with it. 

    The first being that it was quite distracting due it having a screen, the second being that it was wired to the cigarette lighter which is normally fine but I was wanting to have it hard wired to the car and something fairly cheap without an official hardwire kit I wasn't very comfortable using.

    Enter the Road Angel 3 Halo Pro, this was a Dash Cam I spotted on amazon and it fulfilled the following criteria for me.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HXKXLLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07LB66WCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    1) It didnt have a screen and was fairly slim so not only was it discrete, it wouldnt be distracting me mid drive.

    2) The quality was pretty decent and it provided a rear camera also which also had acceptable quality.

    3) It has available an official hardwire kit as an option which was very important to me. 

    Other features include a winter mode as well as Wi-Fi, but truth be told from what I've read and my general usage the App is pretty unintuitive and not great to use and the speeds were pretty bad. However for my needs I'm quite happy to pop the SD card out and take it to my computer to obtain footage. I will apologise that I don't have many photos of hard wiring the camera up as I only managed to do this months after purchasing this. I'll include a video of an IS F Member who wired his dash cam in a similar manner to mine.  I will include the fuses below I used to wire into via Fuse taps that the hardwire kit came with for good measure. 

    image.png.b48ce991bf33e738d07b52bba64752e1.png

    1 FR P/SEAT LH 30 A Power seat
    12 ECU-IG LH 10 A Cruise control, air conditioning system, power steering, rain sensor, antiglare inside rear view mirror, shift lock system, moon roof, tire inflation pressure warning system, (& VSC (2011-2013

    Once installed and configured for hard wire mod in the pretty awful Halo Pro app, the dash cam seemed to work great. I've got audio notifications of when the dashcam is operational, GPS is connected and when it shuts down to protect the car Battery from draining. The footage seems to be quite good also both at night time and day time, and you do have the option to record audio as well as not use it. Not to mention it is fairly discreet and you wouldnt notice it aside from the blinking LED which could always be disabled in the settings.  I'll include some of the footage below for your viewing pleasure.

    IMG_6814.thumb.jpg.33b7e09accf560921bb0cb8e6e54788a.jpg

         

     

    • Like 3
  10. Following on from the project lights, was another visual and somewhat practical mod. When I originally got the car, the original drivers mat had worn all the way through to even the original carpet underneath and I suspected this was due to the single owner and largely motorway driving. At first I got a basic cheap plate cover to conceal the damage and give your foot a place to rest as well as look a bit smarter. 

    IMG_4291.thumb.jpeg.d7f0319132bf9db7cafef379b2255b9b.jpegIMG_4290.thumb.jpeg.4a2ac09b169ee2e2c83b7c432a4c507d.jpegIMG_4292.thumb.jpeg.eaa0d5aa96bc11388e13d2eab732abb4.jpeg

    This was absolutely fine, but a few months down the line my mum was moaning she didnt have mats in her IS250C and I saw an opportunity to donate my mats (which pretty much fit the same with the exception of the rear passengers) and get myself something a little snazzier seeing as I didnt want to get any generic eBay ones or go direct to Lexus either. 

    I happened to come across someone on Facebook selling custom car mats, its the style of those Manicci or Diamond mats you can get but with customised logos. I suspected these were simply cheap Chinese made ones I could have gotten for fairly cheap but I was intrigued to see if I could get a Custom F Logo similar to both my steering wheel and my new projector lights. 

    IMG_6123.thumb.JPG.2d1378b43e412941d54c0d1f6c32d2e7.JPGIMG_6127.PNG.1a87dee7fe5a0636a1ebae07f1637199.PNG

    Using the above sample photos as a reference and providing a high quality F Logo which matched my IS250 exactly, I placed the order and after around 2 weeks or so the European chap popped around to my house and fitted the mats for me. He charged me around £140 and knowing what I know now, I could have probably done this myself and gotten them at possibly half the cost off of Aliexpress but all in all it looks very smart and I'm quite pleased with the overall look. The drivers side does come with the plate to protect the mats from wear while driving so that covers me in that regard. 

    IMG_6730.thumb.jpeg.764351388e74416d4722cd76e08c29ae.jpegIMG_6731.thumb.jpeg.dbe6103c1cf2a39b73e765b8cc191e43.jpegIMG_6732.thumb.jpeg.40f61bc2bd60d585b4d0d7a83cb5c7e1.jpegIMG_6733.thumb.jpeg.3acf844467d3c98738059ba1f35e202e.jpegIMG_6734.thumb.jpeg.bfee325ce6a575715d1ad501e9bc0f36.jpegIMG_6735.thumb.jpeg.2d9ae1feed12bcd9bb9f2b83565bb4c7.jpegIMG_6736.thumb.jpeg.e80c705a4f30a918676de3ca3eb45504.jpeg

    These mats should be far easier to clean compared to the OEM ones, plus at some point when I've got some spare cash I may go for an option in the boot to have that lined in a similar style mat but I'm in no particular rush at this point. 

    • Like 2
  11. The next thing I did was something a little more aesthetic focussed, I noticed Ahmed was selling some of his Lexus F Door Project lights and placed an order for them and I thought this would be a good opportunity to also upgrade my standard F Sport Sills to the Illuminated Lexus Sills.  These are how my standard F Sport sills look.

    IMG_5804.thumb.jpeg.10b4809a93aab0e0abc4fbf708059a2f.jpegIMG_5806.thumb.jpeg.85407dbed89d8400f33d4a350ed58516.jpeg

    It is worth noting that with my car being a Facelift vehicle, the standard sills for this are white and not blue. However the only two ways to get these illuminated sills is either second hand from breakers or to go direct to Lexus and pay an absurd amount of money, on top of this there are very few SE-L facelift vehicles being broken so finding sills is difficult so I opted to get Blue as this would match my overall aesthetic with the projector lights. 

    I first started off with the projector lights, its fairly simple to swap these in with a trim removal tool, just be careful not to snag the connectors. Once in itll work straight away however its not exactly noticeable until dark. 

    377921369_IMG_61252.thumb.JPG.06480a01db04022e7c3860680838cc83.JPGIMG_5746.thumb.jpeg.121c554abd29846b2f63a7c3c2ba45ad.jpeg

    Next were the sills, now thanks to the contribution of a fellow member on LOC UK, I know that the F sport vehicles happen to have the wiring looms for the illuminated still in place as a standard. All I needed to do was just pop the connectors in and we're good to go. I did however run into a bit of a snag, those connectors were there but the placement of them rendered the connectors on my illuminated sills to damn short! I am fairly handy with electrics so I did a jerry rigged DIY solution using some block connectors and automative electrical cable I had lying around. I simply spliced the ends of the wire and joined them into a block and gave it more length then I needed and simply coiled them up. 

    IMG_5805.thumb.jpeg.fcc304ff4df7aa5048cc7c81517896d6.jpegIMG_5807.thumb.jpeg.903354c7e528e4450ff0b181a7206911.jpegIMG_5809.thumb.jpeg.4082187b4db854befde904d45b3026fb.jpegIMG_5812.thumb.jpeg.0d189524ab5046d4a4c1366c4defc20e.jpegIMG_5814.thumb.jpeg.4496360d4a7102d667de922116f6b616.jpegIMG_5815.thumb.jpeg.6ce95f92a12dcf1c736a9bbd0a9bcd0f.jpeg

    After testing it worked, I managed to transfer some of the trim clips onto my sills as some of the F Sport ones broke while trying to yank it off. I did unfortunately managed to dent them but when I get time I'll try and get them out with a suction cup!  Overall I was very happy with the overall look of the sills and projector lights together, the sills fade in which is a very nice touch instead of an instant on /off and by a happy coincidence they seem to match up with the older F logo on my steering wheel perfectly! 

    IMG_5734.thumb.jpeg.083eea64320690a2f566273470d0cea1.jpegIMG_6740.thumb.jpeg.eb23916a449cf9dc49639853f2f2f200.jpeg

    I would like to revisit this project again but to instead get projector lights in the rear passenger doors as well as illuminate those door sills as I managed to acquire two more illuminated sills for next to nothing. This will require some wiring and creativity so I'll attempt that perhaps in the summer. 

    • Like 2
  12. Hey everyone, been a while since I've had some updates for the car. Quite a few little things have been done and a few big things. 

    One of the main things done was changing out the boot struts, the OEM ones had seemed to worn out so I had to use quite alot of force to open them up every time. I wanted to have these open up on their own and I opted with a replacement favoured by many of us on LOC, the following provided by SGS Engineering.

    https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gsc2655-lexus-is300-boot-strut

    I have seen some people on the inter webs replace these with a BMW strut on just one side or sometimes both in order to either save some money as the SGS ones arent the cheapest, or to open up their boots automatically. However I've found through research this presents a few issues. The force for the BMW struts is excessive so while it does open the boot with ease, it takes alot of effort to close the boot also. Secondly especially if only one side is changed, there is unbalanced forces on both sides and this can cause excessive wear of the struts but the boot also doesnt close completely which does not correctly seal the boot from the elements. The benefit of the SGS engineering ones are that its just about enough force to open it and this makes it easy to close, the boot doesn't automatically open but with the addition of springs this is possible. 

    Following on with some advice from Ahmed, I ordered some heavy compression springs as well as some M8 Penny washers. The sizes that fit the SGS struts perfectly were the following.

    Outside Diameter: 22mm
    Inside Diameter: 11mm
    Length: 60mm
    Blue: (This was for light loads I believe)

    Penny Washers: M8 x 20mm

    I got mine from the following eBay links and if you wish to do so you can grab them for there also! 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223830215262

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163939882420

    After I got these I simply unscrewed the ends of the SGS struts and slotted in some the springs with washers on both ends. 

    IMG_5862.thumb.jpg.bcbc969bb386be7d593770106386dc33.jpgIMG_5862.thumb.jpg.bcbc969bb386be7d593770106386dc33.jpgIMG_5864.thumb.jpg.6db7169c6ff305b687eb34656a64d10b.jpgIMG_5861.thumb.jpg.9e0eef02ae8da3a9cee320900976c168.jpgIMG_5863.jpg

    Replacing these was fairly simple if not a bit fiddly, the interior ceiling of the boot liner has to come apart slightly via 4 clips. I was able to use my car trim removal kits clip pry tool to unfasten the boot struts with ease and my new ones seemed fit on with some persuasion. Its worth noting that the SGS engineering ones are slightly longer than the OEM so the way to get these to fit is to push the suspended boot a little more further to accommodate the length. 

    Once in, the results speak for themselves. It does open a little slow on my vehicle but I put that down to the spoiler giving the additional weight, I may try adding some new more powerful strings but if it isnt broken I suppose theres no need to fix it 😂

    • Like 2
  13. 34 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

    Not sure about that, as far as I know engine remains the same throughout the year for MK2 and even MK3, what makes you think there were improvements to reduce carbon build-up?

    As far as infotainment goes, yes I believe around 2010 came USB and Bluetooth integration (I think it was the particular system with HDD which enabled that, so trim dependant), but overall the system was still very very poor and even cheapest Chinese android systems are better then Lexus integrated one of final year. And as far as Chinese systems goes they cover all years and all options, with ML, without ML, with sat-nav screen and without one, so this is not distinctively facelift advantage - you can replace entire unit in any Lexus between 2005 and 2012 (and obviously there are different system for MK3 then).

    From what I researched before I bought the car it was said by a few reviewers both UK and American that the pre de lift IS suffered from carbon build up and that this was addressed by Lexus in the facelift models. Truth be told from what I gather I think this only affected American drivers as they have poor quality fuel and I don’t think many people in the UK including the LOC community have an issue with that pre facelift.

    You are right, the main Achilles heel of the IS is it’s dated infotainment however I have found that with the facelift the Bluetooth music streaming is just about acceptable as far as bare minimum requirements for Infotainment. Whenever I drive my mums IS250C or if my grom is being a pain it’s works nicely enough and the Audi quality is still superb.

    Android units do however provide more better infotainment but they will ofcourse cost no small amount of money and there is far compatibility with the newer facelift cars. I know this ti be the case as I’ve recently managed to break my OEM stereo for my 2010 F sport and I considered getting an XTRON Android unit as I don’t believe the Teyes CC3 is fully compatible with my car unfortunately! I did manage to get a new one via a beaker so let’s hope I don’t have to haha 

  14. 1 hour ago, Mister Rockets said:

    Yes, the one I'm looking at is a face-lift model. I am fully aware that the same car in 2019 would probably be around £2K cheaper (85K miles, auto SE-L in very good order even if the original purchaser was a bit shy with ticking the options list - less to go wrong I guess @ £6K from a dealer)...but I'm prepared to swallow the shortage 'tax' if it can still hold its own today.

    You only need to check out spares 'n repairs on eBay to these are littered with 'modern' VAG and BMWs.

    Facelift is a good shout, aside from adding from new styling choices, it benefits from engine improvements to prevent carbon build up older IS’s in the US suffered from (not an issue here in the UK) and the infotainment is slightly modernised with Iphone / iPod usb connectivity and Bluetooth music. Newer infotainment can be provided via an android replacement or a grom VLINE for wireless apple carplay / android auto, I myself use the GROM and thanks to working with them it does work rather nicely but both of these are expensive options! (£500)
     

    that sounds reasonably priced based on todays market for card and the low mileage, id certainly consider it but maybe see if you can negotiate on the price a little 😉

    • Like 1
  15. I've had my 2010 IS250 F Sport Since December 2020 and for the price you pay (Mine was £4500) you get a whole bunch of car for the money. The fact that yours is an SE-L top spec model it has even more bells and whistles in which most of our German rivals tend to lack even in 2022. The only concern I have with an IS nowadays is how ridiculous fuel prices are and the car is far from the most economical, that is made up for by its supreme reliability though. 

    If the price is right and the age of a car doesn't concern you then by all means its worth it! WIth it being 2009 is it the facelift model with wing mirror indicators? 

    • Like 1
  16. On 3/5/2022 at 10:02 PM, Herbie said:

    As far as I know there are no fuses for the USB.

    I suppose it's possible that there may be an internal one on a circuit board within the multimedia head unit, but nothing in the 'normal' car fuse boxes.

    I’m hoping that’s the case also, but from what I read on other forum posts some 3IS owners have had similar issues so I suspect it will be an expensive fix to change out an individual part on the head unit. I’ll give Lexus a call but my alternatives are getting a replacement head unit from a breaker or potentially going down the android head unit path. 

  17. Hi Guys

    After some tinkering with my stereo I have it looks like my factory USB connection is broken, this wouldn't be so much of an issue but my GROM VLINE2 works by hijacking the USB connection to access it. 

    From my understanding the USB connection in the facelift IS receives power from the 12 pin connection at the back of the stereo and this goes to a Multimedia interface unit, which then goes to the factory USB port. I'm hoping theres some kind of fuse used for the USB connection that may have gone off but I inspected the fuses listed Radio 1 2 and 3 and they were fine. I'm hoping its not an individual part I need changing, does anyone know what fuse it could be for the USB port? I have referred to the manual and online guides but no such luck.

  18. 3 hours ago, LIJO151 said:

    I'm getting similar style mats with a custom F sport Logo put in by a local guy for £140, how do yours look and is the quality decent? 

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