Riccccccardo

Erm I have a gen 4 gs 450h when I bought the car was surprised the boot didn’t fully open with remote or internal boot button just opens a little and does not fully pop open my cars seen a private mecanic and been with in and out of a Lexus main dealer last two years and no one’s mentioned it to me as an issue so I assumed it was normal. Even though my previous five years older gen 7 2007 Audi a4 boot did fully pop open 😅

I have the hancook s1 evo3 now and they are very quite and less bumpy vs the budget davanti tires that previous owner had on. Giving me a lot more confidence to push the far harder now especially in the rain.

Could you repost that picture of part here possibly?

Hi thanks for reply. Yes my ladie receptionist was similar to yours she said no need to worry as my car ten years old lol she also said there was a two month waiting list for the part and the job would take 24 hours so I’ll book it in when I get time but not anytime soon.

Oh wow just got this in post today a #recall for #fuel tube replacement. Anyone else get this?

Anyone know why one is more expensive then the other and why the expensive. One says k127 to 98w XL other says k127 S AB 98w XL I can’t find any information online?

After three weeks hard deliberations live finally settled on a staggered sizes I’ve found for front and back and is under £200 each and is classed as a good tire. Hankook Ventus S1 Evo 3 Hankook is a premium tyre brand based in South Korea. It is the seventh largest tyre manufacturer in the world. The group is extremely popular for its great value for money tyres. Its original equipment tyres are supplied to car manufacturers such as: Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Porsche to name a few. Asda https://www.asdatyres.co.uk £189 front. £169 rear £716 £20 discount for four £696

I found this tyre recommended by EVO magazine its performance is close to top brands such as mitchlin and continental alot cheaper and made by uk company and does loads of sizes. I mite go for this. https://www.maxxis.com/uk/tyre/victra-sport-5-vs5/ https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Maxxis/Victra-Sport-5.htm

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Hi I thanks checked black circles maybe 1 or 2 years ago and they were more expensive then everyone else so I hope they’ve improved but I’ll have a look. Just annoying trying to get a decent tire that’s not trash for all the same brand for staggered sizes that don’t cost a million pounds. I’ll check if there is a tyre section here but I’m curious to know what tires everyone else using on their GS vehicles.

Letter to my local tire shop I was wondering if I could pick your brain. I’ve visited your shop a few times for two random punctures on both back wheels and got you to replace them with budget tires at a cost of £100. On my previous car Audi a4 with 18 inch wheels I always had mitchlin ps4 tires all round at a cost of £600 new for four. On my current vehicle though from the majority of websites I’ve seen for either mitchlin ps4 or ps5 for the same tire on my car Lexus gs staggered wheels Front 235/40 rear 265/35 both 19 inch are around £800 which costs far to much. My long term goal ideally is to find the sizes Front 235/40 rear 265/35 both 19 inch to have all the same brand four tires new at a max cost of £600 budget for four with a mid range or higher tire with good or above in rain performance and good wear rate and should I get a bad puncture and have to replace cost no more then £150 individually. if that is even possible could you let me know your top two or three tyres I could buy from you would recommend that fits the criteria above please. (FYI my two front tires are currently at 2mill depth so not to long left).

FullSizeRender.MOV My friend recorded for me. Now understand more doing better at not using hydrologic brakes.

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Yes that’s very helpful easier to understand because to me it’s not completely obvious so now I can visually monitor the situation knowing I’m not using the brakes and plan and prepare better 🫡 On a side note (my first car with paddles) I’ve been using the steering wheel paddles a lot more recently to police my speed doing around 20-30mph ranges example a fixed speed camera or going slightly down hill connecting to a roundabout I drop one simulated gear down -1 the car instantly reduces speed and for a second does a sharp dive sharply half way into regen blue bar then pops back up at top of even bar but the main reason I do it is to reduce and bleed off speed without pressing the brake pedal and keep below example 30mph on an incline with a speed camera or roundabout. Which I’m guessing is ok to do like dropping a Manuel car into a lower gear to gear box break like I did in my previous manual car. I find this method attractive rather then as before mashing the brake pedal down to keep speed below 39mph to avoid getting a speeding camera ticket.

That’s helpful I’ll make a note of this thanks one of the other guys also mentioned here if you keep in the charging blue section on taco it should only use regen and not hydraulic breaks?

Hi I need help to understand my car is it better for the brakes and disc re wear and heat build up if when coming to a planned quick stop like a red light or parked cars to gently hold the brake pedal and cruise to a stop or gently pulse the brake peddle to a stop? I’m really confused which is the right way re the regen brakes lads any input? As I want the brake pads and disc to last as long as possible. I’m still none the wiser when the regen and when the brakes actually kick in to be used. Any pictures or diagrams or videos out there?

Reached #70k marker today 🥳 I do about 30 miles a day.

Yep which why I have now altered my driving style slightly especially taking it super easy when I’m last 5-10 minutes to my destination so I don’t cook heat up hot the discs before parking up.

My very good mate suggested to me re the #air leak that I need to refurb the wheels when I bought the car all the wheels were nicely re painted but a bit worse for west on the edges. I did have future plans to refurb them one day so this maybe the issue. I remember re my previous car shabby poorly refurbished wheels by previous owner I also had a constant air leak for what seemed like no reason. When I got them all personal refurbed the leaking air issue went away instantly overnight. which means I’m goona have to speed up when I refurb them in the future 😅 pictures re my Audi wheels.

I have another small issue that I’ve been sitting on maybe last ten months which beginning to grate me that’s reared it’s ugly head again. re constant tire light on one particular wheel. The drivers rear wheel specifically the tire keeps setting off the tire light I’ve tired to problem solve myself alone but running out of ideas. when I bought the car the tire valve sensors were cheap China knock off so I had to get all four changed. Tire pressure sensors changed ****** 19/02/21 (rear right) Westfield motors 12/03/21 (Front right) Westfield motors 14/08/21 (front left) Westfield motors 03/02/22 (rear left) Lexus Sidcup. On the drivers rear wheel I’m losing maybe 3-5 psi every 1-2 weeks setting off tire light. so I finally took it to a tire shop £15 25/8/22 they said they could find no leaks of places where the air could be coming out off no puncture no gaps no bubbles etc at all so I bit bullet and paid Luke’s tyres to put sealant rear drivers side tire as losing 3-5psi a week. Tire Light came back on 12/9/21 losing 5 psi. considering I only changed rear drivers valve 19/02/21 does this mean the valve is leaking air since no one can explain why this is an issue if you all know a new one is not cheap! at all I think Lexus charge £150 maybe independent around £90ish for a new one.

I’ve always driven hard with all my cars I wouldn’t say I slam the breaks just sprinted driving style when in the mood every other day. 😅 I do also now have to factor this is the heaviest car I’ve ever owned it’s almost two tons. My last car was around 1.5 tons and was a Audi A4 special edition 2.0tfsi mk7 with ome drilled breaks and all wheel drive and handled everything I threw at it easily including even when I changed all the discs on it at some point after years of ownership.

I’ve had to completely change my driving style with the newly replaced discs especially when nearing work place so as to not leave brakes super hot cos of hard braking. not dragging/holding the breaks and do light pulsing press’s in my general driving style. Is this why race cars do cool down laps re brakes?

On my research found stuff like this.

Hi it was all a bit of a whirlwind week so after investigations I was told I need new front discs due to warping but would be changed as goodwill under warranty. but I’ve been racking my head hard last seven days how this happened I don’t drive mad or brake fast and hard only when I have to I.e approaching a roundabout or coming off a motorway I drove the new warped discs exactly the same way I drove the old discs fitted with the car when I bought it. I have studied several YouTube and websites on bedding in new discs/brakes which Lexus did not tell me to do or anything about that. it’s all a mystery my biggest fear is how to avoid this happening again. I’m aware for first few hundred miles you baby gently the brakes when new which I’m trying to do yesterday I even employed a new tactic of put the car in neutral in heavy traffic or red light just so the pads are not clamped to the hot brake disc. I’ve never been in this situation before and most of my car history I’ve had the sport versions of cars. So truly surprised to be in this predicament.