Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


DanMystro

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    35

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Everything posted by DanMystro

  1. DanMystro
    Thanks for that info. Yeah in total it was just shy of £800, but I guess cost is subjective.
  2. DanMystro
    Awesome stuff to hear! Know if ignition timing gets tampered with?
  3. DanMystro
    I know right haha, the centre bit is metal as well.
  4. DanMystro
    One other option to control fuelling is to install a wideband to check AFRs and an Apexi Neo SAFC which intercepts the MAF signal and alters it allowing you to adjust the AFR, I've done with my car and it works great, with timing I have not seen any way to do that apart from a standalone ECU.
  5. DanMystro
    I use 'buyee', essentially a middle man that let's you browse various Japanese auction sites and shops, once you buy an item it gets shipped to their warehouse where you pay P&P to get it back here. Yes it was Yahoo auction. Cost a lot though 😬
  6. DanMystro
    Managed to pick up this TOMs ECU for our facelift LS400s, also came with this sweet Celsior 10th anniversary edition key. Plugged it in and switched key immobiliser chips and starts fine. Just been out for a test drive. It's a lot more responsive now, awesome stuff, I think the fuel map has been changed as well as my wideband is showing slightly richer than before. The rev limit is now 7000 which is awesome! 😃. I read somewhere that on other Toms ECUs for other cars the ignition timing is advanced but I don't know if it's the case on this one, all-in-all great stuff!
  7. DanMystro
    Update: Everything back together. Works a dream, even a little better than before! Had a small lumpiness at idle with tiny backfire pre-problem which has now gone away and is smooth as can be, fantastic. When I first started it up after repairs it was smoking quite a bit but I guess that was just condensation buildup and what not from sitting for weeks at an angle, coolant was bubbling out the reservoir which scared me as I thought the head gasket had blown but later realised it was just air burping out the system 😂, silly me. No more smoke and no coolant bubbling, awesome. At this point I'm going to call it a successful job, not much to do now apart from driving it and making sure it all runs right, miss driving the ol' boat so will be a joy to get back behind the wheel. Thanks a lot to everyone for their suggestions and comments! It's been a pain and a pleasure.
  8. DanMystro
    Yes, the APEXI only allows fuel adjustment but it's such a nifty little device to have.
  9. DanMystro
    Update: Installed the new tensioner, the belt now sits in more (not as close to the edge). The car wouldn't stay running on it's own without my help pressing the throttle down and it would fluctuate the revs up & down, BUT after some fiddling around I finally got it to stay running on it's own, I had to adjust the TPS and play with the throttle motor. I do believe my throttle motor/actuator is dying, normally you hear that slight buzz from the motor but it had no noise coming from it with IGN ON, I had to turn the IGN to OFF and ON a few times for it come on. I have an APEXI NEO installed which measures my throttle position among other things and noticed when the pedal was fully depressed the motor had no power and the butterfly valve only opened a tiny bit due to the wire, after I got the throttle motor to finally turn on and I pressed the pedal I noticed the throttle position had full movement, turned on the car and Boom! It's alive! I won't say it's fixed for now until I reassemble everything and do a little more testing but for now it's looking good.
  10. DanMystro
    Sorry for the late reply and thank you. I've got a new tensioner but just waiting for a free day to install it (Friday), when I put the old one back in for testing purposes the rod that pushes up against the tensioner pulley didn't even push the pulley up at all as if it lost all strength, once I fit the new one I should be able to see if there's any difference, I did notice the belt was a bit oily as well which is a cause for slip, so will be checking seals and cam cover rubber seals. I will be re-torquing all bolts to spec again. Nothing looks out of alignment that I could noticeably see.
  11. DanMystro
    I did notice after re-timing the cambelt then starting the car the cambelt edged forwards a bit, on the right hand cam gear the belt is literally sitting on the edge of the gear, when I fitted it I pushed it back a bit, I also noticed the belt has moved so much it has edged slighlty off the tensioner idler (If that's what you call it? The bit the tensioner pushes up on). I'm guessing the tensioner is on its way out. Would a weak tensioner be a prime suspect? Thanks for the input, any advice appreciated.
  12. DanMystro
    Update: Put the old hydro tensioner on for testing purposes after re-timing the belt, car fires right up (Great! We're getting somewhere) but dies after a second or so, there's next to no fuel in the tank due to draining it to replace the fuel filter so will pour some in tomorrow and give it another go. So far so good but not 100% yet.
  13. DanMystro
    To be honest it was me 😂. Although I did it two years ago following a guide to the T, pictures and all, no issues for the last two years until recently when I made this post some weeks ago. I didn't install a new hydro tensioner when I did the work so I'm guessing it just got weaker and weaker over those two years causing it to finally jump. Lesson learnt... Almost done with the work but I'm going to buy a new tensioner and resume once that arrives.
  14. DanMystro
    Update: Think I might have found the problem to both the no start and whining noise, took off the right hand cam cover only to find the belt was jumped up over the lip, turned the crank pulley over a few times only to find the belt timing mark(s) are out of alignment with the marks on the cam gear by about six teeth, hopes up! Will be stripping down the front of the engine (Uhh 😪) to re-adjust the belt and pray that was it.
  15. DanMystro
    Kind of. Think there's a short in the harness somewhere, managed to get spark and fuel but seems to be starved, FP fine (currently bypassing relay to make sure fuel is constant for testing) , crank and cam sensors fine, changing the fuel filter tomorrow but still need to do a pressure test, codes still there even after switching MAF sensor (24 & 31), could be injectors but not entirely sure, still troubleshooting. My guess is the Ecu isn't getting signals from various sensors.
  16. DanMystro
    Hi Supafly, thanks for the advice, that faint clicking noise has always been there, think it's just more pronounced on video since the phone was semi-in the bay, I removed the crank pulley and inspected it not only AFTER the car decided to just shut off completely after about 10 seconds of idling... Oh boy it, it doesn't get any easier, does it. Pulling four error codes related to MAF & o2 sensors but that's for another thread I'd assume. (Codes 24 27 29 31 if you're wondering which I would think shouldn't affect the engine firing) I was going to test the car with the pulley off to see if the noise persisted or not but now I can't even start the darn thing, cranks but no start, no spark, all fuses fine, haven't checked the fuel pump yet... Ugh. Still love it though.
  17. DanMystro
    Thanks Colin, I'll have another look when the weather is nice, whenever that is.
  18. DanMystro
    This whining noise has only started since I installed a new tensioner a few days ago, but after taking off the belt which puts the auxiliaries out of action the sound still persists. Listening closely to the noise it appears to come from the crank pulley? / surrounding area so hard to tell really. I had installed a new water pump, cambelt and idlers last year so it shouldn't be that although I did not replace the hydro tensioner (could it have lost a bit of tension causing the noise?), checked the valve body and filter but that was clean as can be with no crud or gunk, although the fluid was brownish/red. All fluids, PS, Coolant, engine oil, ATF etc are all topped up. Not really sure what it could be, any advice/help greatly appreciated. VID_20221106_152327.mp4
  19. DanMystro
    Is the ECT sensor under the manifold for VVTi models? I already changed my starter, god forbid removing all that again. 😂 Edit: Don't worry just searched, doesn't look that hard to change.
  20. DanMystro
    I've yet to find anyone, video or forum that's had the success of adjusting the stock ECU for timing, most people either piggy-back or go full standalone, for the time being I'll stick with AFR tuning etc. I'm still learning and modifying on the go. Yeah, I'll most likely lean in back closer to 12.2.
  21. DanMystro
    Oh, your panel looks entirely different to mine, what car is this from? Thanks.
  22. DanMystro
    Yeah, I went to do that but found out it was already turned all the way down, I even took the radar box out to have a gander and the siren went off whilst I was inside.
  23. DanMystro
    No, because the horns still blare and lights still flash in-case of a legitimate cause, I tested this by following the manual on how to 'activate the alarm', the only thing that was going off by itself was the siren. For the time being I'll leave it as is, I can live with the alarm just being the horn and lights, the siren was the main problem, it would just go off by itself with no accompanying horn or flashing lights. I don't suppose you have a picture of said button near the interior mirror? I've had a look and could only find buttons for the moonroof and dome lights.
  24. DanMystro
    Hi Malc, thank you for the comment. I remedied the problem by just disconnecting the siren. All is good!
  25. DanMystro
    I wish you the best of luck on sorting your alarm problems!
×
×
  • Create New...