Warthog001

That doesn't seem like the parasitic draw that most of us suffer from - could it be a DC to DC converter issue?

I also have an OHME charger but originally ordered a Pod Point unit based on reviews. Luckily, I found out in time that my electricity supplier didn't support Pod Point or my vehicle - so no cheap tarrif! I opted for untethered as I needed a 10m cable. It's a bit less convenient than tethered but I only use it twice a week, so no big deal. Also, if the cable gets damaged it's cheaper to replace. For the original poster -RK - You Tube 'wisdom' recommends matching the supplier to the charger rather than the vechicle, which I have done and it works very well. Current price £949 (OHME ePod untethered - standard installation) also my installation was easier than 'standard' so only paid £905. Very fair.

Sorry, please ignore my last post - senior moment - mine was a 2016 BMW. A 30 year old car would probably have been more reliable!!!!

I have just sold my '96 BMW 440i with only 22k miles as it was becoming increasingly unreliable and the repair bills were mounting. I have just sold my '96 BMW 440i with only 22k miles as it was becoming increasingly unreliable and the repair bills were mounting. Average £1k per visit - 3 visits last year. Probably cheaper to accept the Insurance hike!!! I am loving the NX 450h+ F-Sport - miles better than the Beemer.

I recently did quite a bit of research to find something to meet my needs and never came across side cameras. In the unlikely event that they exist, you couldn't use them for long without draining the pathetic 12v auxilliary battery on the NX 450h+. Other threads on this forum give many examples when the 12v goes flat quickly and I hate to think how long it would (or wouldn't) last in a full 'surveillance' mode. Hell, I get nervous switching my dash cam to parking mode for a hour visit to the local supermarket! There is a fail-safe voltage that is set but that, apparently, doesn't always work (not tested personally). Sadly, I suspect that your search will bear no fruit. But if you do come across something interesting, please let us all know. Good luck

I have had my F Sport for only 2 weeks and agree that it is not a Sporty car. It is firmer and with less roll than the standard Premium Plus that I tested. It feels well connected to the road and the steering is solid. I think that the seats are great and they fit me and mine very well - again on the firm side but supportive without any pressure points. I covered about 150 miles today on all road types, including single track with horrific potholes and, frankly, I am genuinely impressed. Would the Premium Plus on 18" wheels have performed as well, or better, I don't know! I have just come from a very sporty BMW and am loving the new experience. I think that the term 'Sport' is misleading and it seems to be raising a few hackles - there are no extra horses or special engine tuniing etc. it is just the regular car with a different setup for those who prefer a firmer and more 'connected' feel to their driving. The Takumi would not suit me but I am glad that others find tpleasure in driving that version of this terrific car.

I stumbled on this thread a couple of days ago after collecting my new 450h+ on Thursday and I am very glad to know that the power drain on the 12v battery is potentially a problem if not managed. I only drive short distances and have had the same issue on my last 2 cars. I, like many others, thought that the power from the wall socket would charge the aux battery - wrong! My solution is to connect an LED voltage meter that plugs into the 12v outlet in the cubby under the phone charger (about £6.50 from amazon). When the car is in 'accessory' mode it will show the voltage from the aux battery and in 'ready' mode the system voltage (not of interest here). Slide back the charger drawer and the display can easily be seen. If the reading is 12v (my comfort level) or below, it's time to use an external charger to boost the battery. It doesn't matter if the cheap voltmeter is inaccurate and reads too high or low as it can be 'calibrated' by using a multimeter reading from the battery when its first installed, the error is likely to be fairly consistant - mine reads 0.2-0.3v higher so I take that into account. After only 4 days of ownership my battery was down to 11.7v and needed a serious charge. Probably due to dealership demo and initial setup accessory mode. Thanks to all contributers as your info has saved me from being stuffed with a flat battery only a couple of weeks after taking ownership of what seems to be a great car.

From the manufacturer's website, the pro is recommended for all Lexus models except the NX350h and NX450h+ where the Pro Elite is recommended.

If you need to fill with E5/high RON fuel I suggest you use a high volume filling station as the fuel can degrade in the station tanks if it's left unused. I have had high performance cars for the last 20 years and used to use additives until a few years ago I spoke to someone who was an expert in fuels. Essentially, he told me that there are only 2 types of petrol (E5 & E10, or standard & premium) when a tanker fills at fuel depot a container of additives is added to the raw petrol to protect the engine and increase performance (recipes vary). Supermarket fuels add little or none to keep the cost low. The combination of high octane, low ethenol and protection additives should deliver the best performance. My Jaguar XFR hated standard fuel and my current BMW is more tollerant but still works better using premium. Shell V-Power seems to deliver the best results for me but I have used other brands of premium fuel and not noticed much difference. I have just ordered an NX 450h+ F Sport as I'm not ready to go full EV.