gsportcars

Mike you could maybe offer your tubular manifold up to somebody who can produce a batch of them? In the same way somebody would make a replica manifold. I assume it is a case of making up a jig for the manifold and then you can produce as many as you want?? Might be of insterest to a few people as the only turbo manifold I know of for the IS200 is the cast one. Also in saying that I know of a few supra using cast manifolds for single turbos and running over 600bhp so they can be that bad.

The factory GTE bottom end is only good for around 300bhp. I do agree though, bigger turbo but with forged bottom end.

Yeah turbo is much better than the sc IMO and I have had them both. I considered the GTE bottom end before and also dropping a full GTE block into the IS.

If you are running standalone engine management I would advise using the complete GTE block. This way you will benefit from not having to open the engine on the basis you get a good block, you will have a proper metal inlet manifold instead of the fragile plastic unit used on the 1g-fe and you should be able to find a bolt on single turbo manifold for the 1g-gte head. You could even use the original twin turbo setup if you wanted on the gte.

Yeah you will loose the vvti but it gives minimal gains so I wouldn't se it as an issue. When I originally turbo'd my 1g-fe I didn't even use the vvti. It would have given an extra few BHP if even that.

I have a very similar problem to this. My fuel gauge reads ok but the low level warning LED flashes constantly from the second the engine is running. I always thought it was something in the wiring that I had changed when doing the engine swap but I could never be sure as I knew I had not touched anything to do with the fuel gauge.

It is quite an annoying problem as the light is constantly visible. As my gauge reads ok I was just gonna remvove the LED but I really would rather have it working again.

Sorry to hear about those mounts man. I was never sure as I said on which ones were the right ones. Get the post 97 brackets and space them from the block by 6mm and it will drop straight in.

looking well mate. Wheels make a big difference. I knew when I saw them that people would start asking about doing the VIP look. Personally I would just drop it another couple of mil as you said and possibly put a mild spacer on the rears if the offsets allow. I would say that would be easy done, not to drastic but make a big difference to the look.

Get those pipes polished and we'll have a "polish off" lol. I'm gonna be doing mine very soon too. Got some Autoglym metal polish here that i used on my turbo and it did a great job.

So I got my turbo back last night after the rebuild. New seals and bearings where fitted and obviously the whole turbo was thouroughly cleaned to get rid of the dreaded sticky goo. The play in the shaft is now nearly non-existent, the way it should be.

This is the exhaust side all cleaned up.

I also decided to give the polished compressor housing a quick hand polish.

Before...

After...

I had a short roll of heat wrap that I decided to use for the down pipe. Reason being that the water pipes going into the bulk head for the heater matrix are very very close to the downpipe and I know that the exhausts on 2JZ's can get extremely hot. I have heard stories of interior carpets in foot wells melting etc. I have also covered the water pipes with heat reflective mating for further protection.

I have started the car but as expected it is still very smokey as there was quite a bit of oil left inside the exhaust that I was unable to clean. It could be quite a while before it clears.

I had the AFR readings displayed this time on the laptop using the Innovate Logworks software as I don't have a seperate gauge. After the engine got up to temp the readings where around the 16:1 mark on idle which is fine but I will need to slightly adjust this for a steadier idle.

After I check over a few other minor points and calibrate the wideband to work with the ECU I can then start the mapping.

Happy enough overall but still not out of the woods just yet lol.

Lovely mate. Quite a bit of work done there in one hit. Must be a fair difference. You should be able to play with the gains etc on the boost controller to slow the boost as it is reaching peak. That should cure the over boosting.

Personally I like the grill and the wheels will be proper nice. Should suit the car really well.

Excellent news mate. Happy to hear it has all come good in the end. I remember when you wanted to sell it!!! Look forward to some pics and vids asap. With a bit of luck I should get to see this in the flesh sometime this year.

Don't wanna go off topic here but I did notice a mention of fuel gauge problems. Mine reads ok but the reserve light flashes constantly. Dunno why though??? What is the problem that was mentioned?

Yeah Stav mapping myself. Have been swatting up on it for some time now and am confident I know what I'm doing. Just need to take it slow to start.

Elliot it was a one off I found on eBay. been looking for one for ages and it popped up. It is quite small and could prove to be too small but I will only know after a good hard drive when I check the level in it. I may need to circulate it into another expansion tank as this one can be used a kind of swirl pot for the rad too. Time will tell. I may also get something custom made up in the future.

Not a terrible lot happening as the turbo is off the car. It is now with GP turbos getting new seals and bearings and I could possibly have it by the end of the week. In the mean time I got a couple of minor yet important jobs done. First thing was to make myself a set of Det cans for when I'm mapping the car. For anyone who doesn't know these are used for listening to your engine while mapping. You do this to hear if the engine is knocking/detonating. Knocking is bad as it encourages detonation and/or pre-ignition which can kill engines in a short space of time. Electronic knock sensors can be used but they tend to be expensive and many say that det cans are better as you can distinguish knock from other engine noise easier due to the fact you are using the human ear as opposed to an electronic sensor tuned to a certain frequency.

Anyway I started with the engine side of things and got a piece of copper tube and flattened one end before drilling a hole through the flattened section. This was mounted directly onto the head and acts as the noise pick up.

I then got a pair of good quality ear defenders and modifyed them. The foam was taken out of one side so I could drill a hole in the shell. I hand a large barb fitting and fitted it into the shell of the ear defenders. I then cut a small section of the foam out and replaced the foam in the shell. I have a length of heavy duty rubber hose that gets attached from the ear defenders to the copper pipe on the head of the engine that will allow me to hear any noises directly from the engine bay without the sound being muffled by sound deadening or drowned out by exhaust noise etc. When done i can just pull the rubber tube out and leave the copper pipe in place.

I also recieved a new radiator expansion tank to replace the temporary unit I had installed. Needed some very slight playing with to fit but was relatively painless.

This one below is the old one that I had mocked up. It worked but it isn't hard to see why I wanted rid of it lol.

I also tried to clean up the oil/assembly lube in the down pipe to reduce the smoking when it heats up again but it is quite tough and sticky. Although I did get a good amount out I will most likely have to let it burn off for quite a while before it all clears.

Just have to wait on the turbo now.

Can't really see any of my tyres lasting that long once the car is finally running right lol.

I'm glad you revived this thread buddy as I am due a couple of tyres for the Lex any time for MOT. I was pondering over various brands etc but from reading though this thread again I think the Nexens would be a good choice for me for the time being.

Have to admit though, when I did read the thread a couple of years ago I had my doubts, but it is good to see the same thinking after this amount of time.

I'm getting married in Aug this year so I could maybe organise a group to go over for my stag or something. Don't wanna say for sure as I did that the last couple of years and still haven't made it lol.

I'm trying to get hold of a friend who rebuilds turbos so I can get it done quickly. Soon as it is back I'll give it another go lol.

Aido, what is happeneing with JAE? Are they not having it this year???

The way things are going mate I think they're going to be having JAE in Ireland this year so we'll be coming to see you

LOL... that would make things much easier for me. I would even hold an LOC BBQ :winky:

Got another update here.............

IT'S ALIVE....again!

Finally got it started!!!!!!!!

Had everything in place ready to go and the laptop connected up to the SM4 to keep an eye on the readings and got my Bro to turn the key as I kept a close eye on things.

Fuel pump primed but wouldn't run when cranking so nothing. Checked the voltage when cranking and the pump was getting no power. So I hard wired the pump via ignition and it was then getting power ok. Still nothing when cranking, not even a backfire or anything. Had a look at my fuel pressure gauge and it was getting perfect pressure. Had to be the injectors. So I pulled out a spark plug, had a look into the cylinder while the bro turned the engine over and it was dry as a bone. Then while I was there checked for a spark and nothing again.

OK, so I was getting no fuel or spark and then noticed the LED on the SM4 unit flashing a sequence. Took a quick trip onto the (non-official) Autronic forum and was told that it was a cam/crank sensor fault. Upon re-checking my wiring I found that I had somehow wired the cam wires to the crank and the crank wires to the cam ffs. dunno how it happened but I must have had a serious hangover that day lol. These wires are both shielded wires so easily mixed up if you ain't paying attention.

Anyway, swapped the wires about and she fired up straight away...woohoo.......! This fault explains why the fuel pump primed but didn't run on cranking as the the ECU wasn't getting any input signals so could not give any output signals which obviously include fuel pump, injectors and coils etc.

Seeing that I had just had an engine rebuild I was told to bring the rpm up to around 3k straight away with the cheapo oil in the engine to start the engine running in process. After about 10-20 secs of this, the car started to smoke quite drastically. I expected smoke but this seemed a bit excessive. See the pics below which are about 2 mins after start up.

I decided to keep an eye on the temps and oil/coolant levels and let the engine run until it was up to full operating temperature. I did get that far as the fans came on with the temps reading around 88/89 degrees. While having a quick scan around the engine bay again for leaks I came across a small fire below my turbo!!!!!!

Immediately shut down the engine and grabbed the fire extinguisher by which time the small yet extremely scary flames had dissappeared.. This turned out to be an oil leak from my turbo dripping onto the red hot manifold and the oil puddle had ignited. You can see the oil puddle below with the soot too lol.

Obviously there was something wrong within the engine to cause the smoke. I needed to remove the turbo to fix the leak anyway so this is where I started to investigate. The downpipe had to come out and I found a thick sticky black substance that had made it's own stream all the way through my downpipe. This was the engine assembly lube from the rebuild. The first thing that occured to me here was a problem with the piston rings/ valves which was allowing the lube to enter the combustion chamber. See below the flow of goo...

I then removed the turbo to see the sticky goo was deffo coming via the turbo.

It was only when I looked into the manifold exit and the the turbo inlet (T4 flange) that it was clear that the assembly lube had not got into the combustion chamber but leaked out through the turbo seals. It is also clear that the turbo seals have dried up/failed while the turbo has been sitting on a shelf in my garage for two reasons; The smoke started almost immediately after starting the engine... and if it had taken a while for the seals to go after start up then it would be oil in the down pipe and not engine assembly lube. You can see here that the oil/lube has beed dripping down from the turbo towards the manifold as opposed to coming from the manifold into the turbo.

Overall I am happy that the car is running again but dissapointed that my turbo seal have shat themselves. I drained the oil from the engine and there is no sign of water getting in etc so that is good and the coolant seems fine also. I am now trying to get my turbo rebuilt with new seals and bearings and hopefully I should be good to go then.

Is it the Falkens you're recommending for 18 inch alloys now then Tony?

And what would you recommend for 19" Tony

Indeed what would you recommend for 18/19's. I am in need of some new 19's at the minute.

The bit with the mesh in it is actually also a gasket for the throttle body.

Leave it in as it it make little to no difference removing it other than to create air leaks which can cause all sorts of idle and fuelling problems. Even if you seal the throttle body properly you will still see no improvement on performance. These pieces of mesh are usually put in place to streamline the air for the MAF sensor in order to give more accurate readings. Thats how your fuelling could be thrown out by removing it.

If the bumper is fitting ok then where is the problem. Fair enough if you clip a kerb and it cracks etc etc then obviously you would seek to fit a genuine one but I don't see why you would want to change it before then??

Yeah spend a rediculous amount of money on an over priced sensor from the dealer just to avoid the hassle of fitting a 5p resistor. Logic at its best.

other colour i quite fancy is this gun metal grey colour i have seen on a few .

Now Granite Sky is a proper colour :D

Indeed mate, the best IMO

I do like the white though...

Nice!! Does need some adjustment though as with most new zorsts. Is the whole system titanium or just the rear box?

Yeah been trying to get over for the past couple of years. This might just be the year lol.

Got a bit further on now. The engine and gearbox were bolted up and dropped into the car. The manifold and turbo were already fitted as the manifold can only be fitted with the engine out of the car. The Autronic loom is connected up to the engine with ancillaries such and alternator/starter, speedo/reverse sensor etc also fitted and connected. Power steering plumbed in, fuel line shortened to fit and connected etc.

The wastegate and downpipe were fitted which left only the rest of the exhaust to complete in order to drop the car off the stands. I was re-using the centre section but it needed each end modified to match up to both the new down pipe and the new rear section so that was done relatively easily and it was bolted in place.

Then came the rear section where the exhaust splits into two. I wasn't happy at all with the previous effort as it was messy and generally not a good job.

I had spoke to Gman earlier about helping me out with this so I could position the exhaust properly and tack it in position, but as I continued on it seemed to come together ok and it is now basically completed. It just needs welded up to finish.

I have engine oil, coolant, couple of oil filters and power steering fliud all sitting ready to go. Cheap mineral oil to run the engine in and Silkolene Pro S for after. I will get more pics of the engine bay as I forgot today.

The front end of the car will be built up hopefully next week and then I should be set to turn the key.........again.

I think it comes from Thailand or something but I have been told by SSI (supra specialists Ireland) that the manifolds are mocked up in an actual supra engine bay to ensure proper fitment etc. The quality of the manifold is superb too.

I would guess that they could and probably do make one for the 1JZ and depending on what car it is designed to fit it may fit directly into the IS engine bay.