gsportcars

Ellz it is a k-conversions manifold (ebay). I see what you mean about the difference in piping but it is all stainless steel. I think it is due to the pipes being mandrel bent and the fact that they actually stretch on the outside of the bend to give better flow etc. That has probably ruined the polished surface.

Incase anyone os wondering why I haven't heat wrapped the manifold this time it is simply so I can inspect it after a few miles and some abuse to see if it is holding up ok. I will prob then wrap it to reduce the under bonnet temps.

This is the manifold and turbo fitted and ready to drop into the car. I am quite apprehensive about making sure the turbo, manifold and wastegate all bolt up together correctly. This is why I had the manifold professionaly modified and welded. You can imagine that the slightest gap in any of the mating surfaces means a big exhaust blow out and the engine, manifold, wastegate etc etc has to come out and be completely re-done.

The engine is now in the car as of today but still needs everything connected up. All the wiring has been completed for the ECU so simpy needs "plugged in". Gearbox is fitted with a new clutch release bearing. The downpipe is completed and the exhaust mid-section needs a v-band flange welded on to finish that.

To get the car started again I need to finish the rear twin exhaust section, build up the front end of the car including the intercooler and piping which needs slight modification due to new turbo position, and fill with oil, coolant, power steering fluid etc.

I have decided to attempt my own mapping of the engine. This is due to a couple of reasons. Although Jonny (AI) is more than capable and the preferred choice for mapping anytime, He does, by policy and understandably lock the ECU after mapping to protect the map against..... lets say copyright. This is the right way to go in general but being me I want to have access to allow me to adjust parameters and fine tune functions like anti-lag, launch control etc etc. On Jonnys advice to either have someone or myself map the ECU in order to leave it unlocked I have decided to do it myself. This is not a decision made lightly. I have extensively researched and studied the subject and am confident I know what is involved. There is no way I would even consider spending such an amount of money, time and effort on this project only to foop it up at the final hurdle.

I have already installed an Innovate wideband and have got my own laptop connected to the ECU ready for mapping. The only thing I am concerned about is full throttle runs in the current weather LOL.

Once again I have returned to my thread. Christmas, work etc etc usual story.....

Anyway I will try to pick up where I left off.

I got to the Bosch ignition module with a couple of new relays wired in. One for the module and another to run the fuel pump, boost solenoid and o2 sensor heater.

Pic of that below along with newly re-wired coil packs.

I decided to take the bad look off my engine bay a little further by cleaning up the dirty inlet manifold. Didn't want to get it polished as I'm not big into the bling thing but just attacked it with a grinder and wire brash attachment to show the original aluminium colour.

Before

After

I tried to contact the guy in the states mentioned previously about the exhaust manifold but had no luck so i had to search for another manifold. I bought this in the end and it turned out to be to too big for my engine bay. The twin exit wastegate pipes fouled on the suspension turret.

Notice in the pic below that the studs for the engine mount are nearly an inch away from fitting in the chassis.

I had to remove the twin wastegate pipes as this was the easiest option instead of shortening the six runners of the manifold.

This is my mock up attempt at re-fabricating the wastegate pipes. I needed to use tighter bends and repostion the wastegate up the way so it would fit nicely beside the downpipe.

I knew that such an awkward and difficult piece of fabrication and welding was way beyond my capabilities as there were a few very tight crevaces to weld in which the mig just couldn't do. I took it to a friend who had done some work for me before and got back a top quality job with flawless welds. He also used double wall thickness bends due to the amount of heat that is present in that area of the manifold.

I then mocked up the remaining pipework needed to fit the wastegate in position. I wanted to re-route the wastegate back into the downpipe as I had the screamer pipe on before and didn't really like it that much. After this I got the remaining pipe work properly welded up again with the results below. You can also see the new downpipe that also needed modified to fit.

The other mod I deffo needed to do before dropping the engine in place was to make sure there was enough extra support for the manifold to avoid the unwanted stress and cracking that happened before. I put extra bracing on the manifold this time and welded a stronger brace at the bottom of the downpipe to better support the weight of the exhaust.

M/T and A/T have the exact same headers/manifold.

Never met you in person mate but did have the pleasure of chatting briefly on the phone when buying the car. Good luck in HK. I dare say it will be more pleasant than living here lol.

Another one bites the dustaahhhh....

LOL.

Looking good mate. I remember doing all that on my own when I started my swap and so many times I thought, "What am I doing here, I must have lost the plot!"

Glad to see you going ahead with it. I will deffo be keeping an eye on this thread.

Prolex-uk does or at least use to do the carbon ECU and fuse covers and also some other carbon covers. Speak to Dave Ellen on here and he should be able to sort you out.

They are Ultralite Wheels. Very nice wheel and top quality.

The top one is the Atec II and I think if it was made in a 19" in the correct offsets I would have to commit crime to buy a set.

Hi mate,

I know there was a meet/ rolling road day a while back down south somewhere but there hasn't been anything in a while. There are limited numbers of IS200 enthusiasts here but I am sure that would stop a meet happening. I wouldn't be up for organising one myself but I would certainly attend one if it happened. I should be getting mine back one the road soon so wouldn't mind a meet to go to lol. The weather ain't the greatest at the minute though.

The Battery can't be fused for the starter motor. It draws too much current and just uses a non fused cable as standard. The more I think about it I am going to go for a proper distribution block as there is no reason why not.

The cut off switch will be in the boot on the Battery terminal itself. I can also fit a remote pull wire to the cabin for this too.

Comments much appreciated mate.

Cheers guys, I'll be happy if it just goes lol.

You're doing what? Sticking a 2JZ-GTE in an IS?

The first thing I think about is WHY but I'm not gonna go there.

I have a Supra so I'm a little sad that another Supra has died but happy that its heart goes on in another life.

Good luck with the project

Don't worry the other supra died long before I took it's engine. I promise I didn't have it killed lol

WHY??? why not?

Latest....

Had a couple of hours today to do some small jobs so I decided to continue on with the wiring but more specifically the Battery re-location side of things.

The reason for the Battery re-location is to make some room in the engine bay. This then makes the whole bay much simpler and less cramped and messy looking. I am going to use the space where the Battery used to be to fit my power steering resovior and the Bosch ignition module for the coil packs along with the relay to power them.

I started with the huge 1/0 gauge power cable that is coming through the bulkhead from the Battery in the boot. This obviously can't be left to dangle on it's own as it is live and not fused. It can't be fused for the starter motor and alternator cables. I will be using a Battery cut off switch in the boot for safety.

Below is a pic of a quick bracket that was made up to hold the main power cable and bolt the various outputs to. This may be changed to a proper power distribution block but I will see how it goes.

The ground cable will either be extended to the boot to bolt straight onto the Battery or a suitable grounding point will be used in the engine bay.

Next was to move the power steering resovior bottle.....again. This bottle is located on the driver side of the IS engine bay as standard because the pump is on that side. As the power steering pump on the supra engine is on the passenger side I had re-located the resovior to the postion in the pic below. Although this worked fine it wasn't ideal as the rubber hoses would fowl with the inlet manifold and the ECU box. I wasn't happy about this so I will be buying new longer hoses and routing them correctly.

Below shows the new position of the resovior. It now has it's own 'space' and I can route the hoses below the inlet manifold where there is now much more room due to the old wiring loom having been removed

With the new resovior bottle in place all that is left to fit in this area is the Bosch ignition module and it's power relay. These two items were originally placed on the front of the passenger suspension turret on an aluminium plate to dissapate heat. Again this worked fine but was messy looking and meant that wires were being fed through the strut brace brackets which I didn't really like either.

I knew that I needed some sort of aluminium plate mounted in here to fit the ignition module but as the main wiring looms were already here it was making it very difficult to fabricate something that would be professional and neat. I decided to make use of the factory Battery tray as it wasn't needed anymore. This Battery tray was already the perfect shape to be fitted here around the wiring and the mounting points were already there so back in it went. I can now simply cut a rectangular piece of flat aluminium plate to fit straight into the top of the Battery tray. This will then be my mounting surface for the ignition module and relay. I will also feed the wires through drilled holes ( a la boot install false floor idea) to tidy things further.

I ran out of time at this point so will continue soon.

On another note I got the phone call from Marty at SSI to say they were ready to complete my engine rebuild and they wanted the rest of the parts ie; sump, cam covers, timing belt pulleys etc etc. I dropped the parts off on saturday and had a look at the block which was already built up and it looks pretty good. some exterior parts need cleaned up again to keep the engine bay looking smart so I will do this when I get the block back. I will also be able to complete the wiring in of the Autronic loom with the engine in place.

The gte inlet and exhaust manifolds will not fit onto the vvti head as the runners are spaced differently. You would have to get a custom manifold made which would be quite a bit of work. If you are buying turbo's then you would be better going for an aftermarket single or twins as opposed to factory toyota items.

I have been continuing on with the wiring in of the new Autronic loom but it is really just a lot of routing wires together in groups, spiral binding them and then securing them to stop movement and wear and tear. Rather than fill the thread with lots of pics of tiny differences I will wait until there is a noticable improvement and then post some more pics. For now though I just have the pic below of the power cable for the starter motor. This was originally lengthened but the extra cable length was never protected. I wanted to sort this as this cable does not get fused and runs straight to the live Battery terminal.

I also decided to have a quick look at my manifold as it was needing modified for the new wastegate position. My intentions were to cut off the wastegate feed pipe and re-route it towards the rear of the manifold as opposed to down underneath the manifold. This would then allow me to bolt the wastegate on directly beside the down pipe coming from the turbo and route the dump pipe straight into the down pipe. The reason for doing this is to shorten all the piping and so the wastegate is not fitted way down below the engine. The shorter these pipes are, the more responsive is the wastegate in it's function and it will also be more precise.

Upon inspection of the manifold I have found that it has cracked on one of the runners. This is still even after I welded on strengthening braces on the bottom of the manifold. It is now scrap. You can see the crack in the pics below

This prob isn't a bad thing as the quality of this manifold was always doubted and it would have been a nightmare to modify to the way I wanted. Marty and Colin in SSI have found another manifold made by a guy in the states which is exactly what I am after and positions the wastegate exactly as I want it too. It also clocks the turbo slightly so the induction pipe doesn't fowl on the water pipe coming from the side of the head. This will all become clear later when it is in place and I will post some pics to show what I mean.

hmmm. This takes me back to when I had the turbo kit on and i still wanted more power. I looked at sooooo many options but it really depends on what you want from the car.

I would be inclined towards using the gte bottom end with the 1g-fe head. Reason being that the bottom end is a straight swap, where as to swap the head causes lots of 'head aches'......

As you mentioned you will lose the vvti. this is no big deal as it gives minimal gains but you will then have to re-map to suit etc etc. When you change the head you also have a different inlet manifold which may have some extra or even worse, lack of sensors which can cause issues. Obviously sensors can be custom fitted etc but it all adds to the work.

Then lets say you successfully transplant the gte head and get it all set up and running.....your factory bottom end will still only handle about 260BHP so you are still limited to that power. You can acheive 260BHP with a bolt on turbo kit and new injectors so why then swap the head????

If you look at it from the other angle, ie; fitting the gte bottom end then things become much simpler. The bottom end will be a straight swap and you can just use your factory sump to make sure it fits over the sub frame. As you will still have the factory head you will not have any worries about ECU compatibility and sensors etc. The vvti head will flow enough air to run at least 400BHP as member 'Adie' will testify to so it won't be a limiting factor. When using the standard vvti head you can also use the bolt on Pro-lex turbo kit which cuts down the need for custom fabrication of manifolds, piping etc etc. Combine this with bigger straight fit injectors which are now available and the stronger gte bottom end and you an run about 1.2bar of boost with no probs at all and it will be safe. This is opposed to a limit of about 0.5bar for the 1g-fe bottom end. I would guess a BHP figure of 300-350BHP with this setup.

There will always of course be lots of other ways around it but if you want the straight six turbo without going for a fll engine transplant then that would be the best option in my book.

No

The lexus stud pattern is 5x114.3

The offset is also another factor to take into account

Oh there not chrome, just the pic looks like that. They are the aluminim ones that light up except like many others they don't light up anymore lol.

Kind of secret squirrel at the minute but I will reveal closer to the time. should be fun though.

Elliot I have being trying to get the car finished to get it over there to some shows since early last year lol. Just never got the time to get near it. I deffo still plan on getting over as I would like to get to WIM aswell.

As for it's use well it will still have a full interior but maybe some front bucket seats and harnesses. It will deffo be taken to track days as much as possible as I wouldn't waste the work I have put it. The boot will be stripped of its sound system though to save weight with hopefully a Battery relocation to the boot. I will also attend what shows I can as the car will become a promotional vehicle for my new business that will be starting next year.

Update,

So I left off with the new Autronic loom to be fitted but I also wanted to clean or wire tuck the engine bay. This would only ever be done to a certain degree as I am not prepared to go to some of the insane lengths that I have seen some show cars doing just to hide wires.

So to start with the driver side of the engine bay. This side is simpler to do as the main loom all comes from the passenger side of the car and then travels to the driver side so I didn't have lots of looms here to work around.

The first pic shows the wiring outlined in red that I wanted to move and the yellow line indicates it's new home.

Below shows the loom in it's new routing

I have outlined a patch on the metal body below which is a large lump of glue which used to hold the ballast for the HID's. This had to be scrapped off.

First a quick clean up of the engine bay with some degreaser

This is a pic of the passenger side of the engine bay. I have tidied some wiring here and gave it a quick once over with a cloth but that is all for now as I still have a lot of work to do on this side and there's no point in tucking wires away until I have all te wiring routed where I want it

Now to feed the new Autronic loom through the bulk head. It was already taped up but I want more protection for the loom so I bought some cable tidy and started to wrap the loom. This was done from inside the car.

Through the bulk head and into the engine bay under the Battery tray. The hole will also be sealed with plenty of silicon to stop water etc and also hold things tight to stop movement.

The remaining length of the loom is now spread out across the engine bay for the fun to begin.....

Seperate from the Autronic loom is the wires for the Blitz boost controller and also the wiring for the driver side HID headlight that I hade removed when tucking the wires here. I have now re-routed these to items across the back of the bulk head but they are lower down than before to keep them out of sight. You will see the cable arrowed below which is clipped to the existing loom already fitted

These then follow the main loom in it's new position around the suspension turret. Youe will see below the boost controller soleniod mounted in postion.

I have started to sort through the new loom and have taped all the connector plugs from the old loom to the corrosponding wires on the new one so that when I come to actually wiring it in, it will be much easier as everything will be there. This also helped me to position each bunch of wires in the correct general direction that they need to go to get to right sensors etc.

I have a new oil pressure and temp gauge that need wired in and then I can start taping and cable tidying each individual 'smaller' loom which will also allow me to postion them correctly. I will then have lots of open ended, labelled wires already in the right place so I can easily connect them up after the engine is back in.

Speaking of the engine itself I had some bad news about that. After stripping the head off the engine I took it to Marty and Colin at Supra Specialists Ireland. They know these engines very well and can source parts quickly and easily for them. I got them to check the engine over and after taking the bottom end apart it was found that every one of my bottom end bearings had spun. This had caused the con rods to oval and rendered them useless. My head was also scrap as the cams had badly scoured the mounting caps and the head itself so it was now useless too. Luckily enough I had a spare head in the house and this was deemed in good nick so it is being used.

For the bottom end, new rods were needed and luckily again, another customer who I know kindly donated his used standard rods and pistons which are also in good nick as he is going for a forged rebuild. (thanks again Darragh). So the spare head and pistons have pulled me out of a big hole as I had hoped to get a clean bill of health for the block and just bolt it all back in again but hey these things happen. The engine is being built back up after the head and block get a light decking and all new parts used including a full toyota gasket kit, new oil pump, Clevette bottom end bearings, ARP head bolts, full piston ring set etc etc. I am now safe in the knowledge that my engine block is fresh and healthy so at least it can be counted out if there are still some problems come mapping time. I will also not be worried about throwing a hefty amount of boost at the engine as I know it will easily take 800BHP+++++ all day long. 600bhp will be plenty for me though LOL.

For now I will be continuing with the wiring side of things and once the engine is in and wired up I have to move onto my exhaust. The manifold needs modified for the new wastegate position, a new down pipe needs made for this reason too and the rear section where the exhaust splits into twins will be re-done so the single 3" pipe will split into two 3" pipes instead of two 2.5" pipes as it is now.

Gav.

If the engine is running in standalone then only the after market ECU will be controlling the engine with zero input from the factory ECU. This has it's obvious advantages when running a different engine. The factory altezza ECU will not run the 1g-gte. You may also need to swap over you crank trigger disc if it is different from the 1g-fe disc because your aircon won't work otherwise. That is only one example of problems that you could run into.

Not trying to put you off at all just explaining that it isn't a bolt in job and far from it.

Your factory ECU will need to stay in place to run the auxillary functions like dash lights, aircon, rev counter etc etc but it would still not control any engine functions.

I know decent power can be had from the 1g-gte with supporting mods but if you went for say... the 1jz-gte or 2jz-gte then you could have a lot more power for the same amount of effort. The jz engines are much more easily tuned....well at least they are on this side of the world as we generally don't see the 1g-gte over here.

Engine will bolt in though you will need to make custom intercooler piping and exhaust. You will also need to run the 1g-gte ECU or a seperate aftermarket standalone unit. Either way I suspect you will have some issues with electrics.

I had looked at this engine swap before and as simple as it sounds the 1g-gte is a very old engine. you may be better turboing your altezza and simply fitting the 1g-gte bottom end to the standard altezza vvti head. This will allow you to run more boost and you can piggyback your ECU to run the fuelling setup.

From what I've heard, the tezza engine can take a lot more abuse than that so I would suspect there could be some other contributing factors as to why the engine blew.

Personally I would find a used engine and just drop it in. I am sure someone could source one from Japan if needed but maybe try the likes of 24/7 spares etc. Just ask a lot of questions about the engine and see if there is any paper work to verify mileage, like old MOT's service history etc. Usually wouldn't get this with parts but worth a try.

Then get everything in the car checked over when it's running again like AFR's check the map again and so on. You could find some other issues that would cause problems.

I would have thought a breakers yard would be your best bet for something like this. If your gonna import one then I would just make sure it is for s right hand drive car.

£2500....LOL good old Mr Toyota always knows how to charge PMSL.

Someone said this to me before and I nearly fell of the chair laughing. simple physics tells you that the tea is at a hotter temp than your body so will not cool you down.

If I was out for a run and came back I certainly would not put the kettle on. I would go straight to the fridge for a cold drink.