gsportcars

City link will deliver items that other places won't due to weight or size restrictions. I work in an airport handling company and we handle all the city link freight that comes through. They are always sending us overweight items and stupidly long items that won't fit in the aircraft ULD's. Also when they have to empty ULD's they have about 10 guys standing around the one box trying to decide who is going to take it.

As far as my experience with them goes they are utterly useless but I have never had anything delivered by them so I can't comment on that side of things.

It really depends on what setup you want to run and what parts are used. For a straight swap to a standard 2jz-gte engine with standard turbos and ECU then it would be cheaper than to do a big single turbo conversion too. This because there are are many more custom fabricated parts needed for the single conversion. There is also a lot more wiring to be covered when going for a single turbo. Putting a price on this work is very difficult as there are so many variables and there are always suprises along the way that you wouldn't have anticipated. Then there are things like the aircon. With the supra engine in place the aircon will not work on the IS. There are ways around this but have the workshop in question taken this into account?

After I was happy enough with that for the time being I decided to move onto the old Autronic

wiring loom. This was originally spliced into the factory loom from when the turbo conversion was

done on the standard engine. The same loom was then cut into again for some changes when the supra

engine was first fitted. This caused more problems than it was worth as the wiring was messy and

had to be traced back to both ECU's. Even more cutting and fiddling needed done when I thought I

had some bad wiring issues. To get around this I have decided to replace the complete Autronic

loom and start from scratch. So the Autronic wiring had to be removed too. You will see in the

pic below I have outlined some of the Autronic wiring. It is generally the wiring that is covered

in insulating tape LOL. I had to also strip this down bit by bit to ensure I didn't just cut

things without knowing what they were. This will make my life easier when re-installing the new

loom. This wiring is from under the Battery tray where it comes through the bulkhead.

This is the loom removed from the car and below that is the new loom, taped up and ready to feed

through the bulk head

I obviously can't install the new loom until I get the engine back in place so it will stay as is

for a while. Next I want to tidy away some of the wiring aroun both sides of the engine bay and

give it a good cleaning through out. I would like to remove all of the wiring but unfortunately

the main part of the factory loom that travels up the passenger wing and through the bulkhead will

have to stay put. There is not enough length on the loom to re-position it out of sight and it is

simply not practical to comletely re-do this loom just to lengthen it. I am not that worried

though as it is just one big pipe of wires running along one side and looks neat enough for me.

There are other bits though that will be hidden and tidied which should make a noticable

difference.

More updates. This post contains lots of wiring pics that prob won't interest many people but

I'll post them anyway.

Today I stripped down the factory engine loom right back to the ECU. Nearly all of it was removed.

The only factory engine wiring that was left in place was the alternator, starter motor, reverse

sensor and speedo sensor wires. Everything else runs from the Autronic now. The pics below show the

loom in various stages of stripping until finally I have only what I need to use. The remaining

cut wires are taped up in blue tape inside the ECU box.

These two pics show the difference in thickness of the loom after I was finsished with it LOL

To be honest mate I haven't done much in the way of the dash yet. I have got my rev counter running from the tacho output on the Autronic though as the supra engine gives a different signal to the standard IS engine. My temp sensor stopped working but I think that is due to a different sensor being fitted in the rad pipe so I will have to look into that. My speedo also reads about 20% fast but this is due to the different gearbox mated to the standard IS diff. I should really get a supra or IS300 diff which have different ratios and would bring the speedo back into line although there are other possibilities.

Other than that I think everything else will be run from the Autronic but I'll have to wait and see what is best.

Yeah still got the zorsts mate. The wheel well was all re-welded back up again but I am removing the sound system so I can put the Battery in the boot, add some strengthening in the way of strut braces etc and ultimately save weight. I already have the front and rear japsai under chassis braces fitted which make a big difference.

Will be attacking more of the wiring loom tomorrow hopefully so will have some more pics to show the extent of the wiring.

I have decided to revive my old thread with this fresh new one.

The reason being that I have not had the time to get anywhere near the car at all to get the boosting issue sorted

out. I am now starting to make time as it is dragging out too long.

You can see the original thread here....

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...upra+conversion

So first is to remove the engine. This had to be done as I need to modify my exhaust manifold and down pipe

because I think this is what is causing the wastegate problem. I also want to tidy up the engine bay and get rid

of any unnecessary wiring etc.

This is the messy wiring from the original installation and also the standard wiring loom that was taped up and

strapped to the chassis leg to keep it out of sight. I have already started to strip the complete standard loom

down to get rid of anything that is not needed. As it turns out, pretty much all of it is not needed. I would like

to be able to remove the factory ECU aswell but it is needed to run some of the auxillaries for the dash etc.

I have pulled the head off the engine also as I want to get the head rebuilt with new valve seals, gaskets etc etc.

A new pair of cams may also be required as there is some bad scouring on the ones that came out of the head. I

would prefer not to touch the bottom end but it will be checked over to make sure it is in good enough condition.

I have also bought a new Autronic SM4 wiring loom so I can scrap the old one which is currently spliced into the

factory loom from the previous turbo conversion. This way I can be sure that any wiring problems that I may have

previously had will be gone. I also hope to do a wire tuck or "clean" the engine bay. In other words to re-route

as much wiring as possible in the engine bay to keep it out of sight. This will give the engine bay a clean and

simple look.

I hope to keep this thread updated regularly but forgive me if I don't get to do it too often.

As ever all comments and constructive criticism are welcome.

Think you need to expand to Ireland Tony. I know many people over here who would like to see someone dedicated to proper geometry etc set up locally. There really is no one here who has the knowledge or enthusiasm to set a car up for a particular use.

Off topic.... I still have not got near my own car as it is getting stripped again to sort some other issues but I will get back to you when I do. Gav.

Hi mate,

Go to McGowans tyre centre in Mallusk. They will set the car up for you. I will be using them when I finally get mine sorted. Just make sure you get them to set it up to Tony's spec and not the spec on their system.

Gav.

Might be a stupid answer but worth a try...

Have you correctly adjusted the throttle cable? Only reason I ask is that I had a similar problem when I did away with the electronic throttle on my car. The throttle cable was very loose.

That was my first Idea as well, but I was wondering if the welds wouldn't snap under the pressure of the torque.

How much torque does your engine produce?

Your standard prop-shaft is welded anyway. I got mine done by Hoy Engineering in N.Ireland. They cut it, welded it and balanced it. I have never heard of any of their props failing and I have never felt any vibration at all from mine. I told the guy I was going to be running around 600bhp and he said it would have no problem at all handling that power.

If it is done professionally it will be fine. It is not something you wanna take a chance on either because if it snaps it could cut right through the fuel line and brake lines which are directly beside it

I'm planning to have it done professionally. My plan is to get these things done before I start with the transplant that way I don't have to wait for parts. I will PM you for some more details if you don't mind.

I wouldn't advise to get the prop shaft done before the engine and gearbox have found their final position in the car. Depending on what gearbox and engine mounts you use there will be small differences in the length of prop-shaft needed. The sliding spline section will give some compensation for length but only very little as it is designed only to slide in and out to a certain degree. If you get this wrong you could end up with the spline sliding apart or rounding itself under high torque or even the spline being pushed together too much.

I had to mount my engine and gearbox in place and get the rear section of the IS prop-shaft (bit connected to the diff) held in position and then measured it accuretely. A professional shop will tell you what amount of movement you need to have either way.

It is nice to hear some positive reports about lexus models. It is all too easy to start giving off about this, that or the other these days.

Just hope mine passes as easy lol.

That was my first Idea as well, but I was wondering if the welds wouldn't snap under the pressure of the torque.

How much torque does your engine produce?

Your standard prop-shaft is welded anyway. I got mine done by Hoy Engineering in N.Ireland. They cut it, welded it and balanced it. I have never heard of any of their props failing and I have never felt any vibration at all from mine. I told the guy I was going to be running around 600bhp and he said it would have no problem at all handling that power.

If it is done professionally it will be fine. It is not something you wanna take a chance on either because if it snaps it could cut right through the fuel line and brake lines which are directly beside it

For my conversion I had to get the front section with sliding spline from the supra prop-shaft cut and re-welded to the rear section of the standard IS200 prop-shaft. This obviously has to be done by a professional machine shop as it has to be balanced like a new tyre would.

Hi mate sorry for the ridiculously late reply lol. I have been far too busy in the last number of months to get a chance to update anything on here.

The car is getting the engine pulled out to get a few issues sorted but you are more than welcome to come have a look and a chat anytime. Just PM me and I'll send you my number.

I should be updating this thread with progress very soon.

You could reset your ECU and take another drive. The light might stay off but just take note of what the car is doing if and when it comes on again.

It might not tell you anything more but it is easier and quicker than the pin out thing.

You seen some sense then jack? LOL

Would you not be better off with a tezza mate. If you can get a decent insurance quote for one I would definately advise it.

You looking for full leather or half leather? Full leather is harder to find and usually only found in later spec cars.

You got many plans for the potential car?

Yup deffo sounds like new clutch time....

If there was a prob with the gearbox itself you would be hearing all manor of strange noises LOL.

Don't Is300's have the flappy paddle gear change??? I don't know if this is an issue but I do find it hard to believe that an item like that would be listed for the IS300 and not the IS200 without good reason.

I am also interested in this as I have been driving my IS now for at least 2 years or so and have not once ever had to use my airbag. I can only see sharper steering as being an advantage. Bring on the boss man.

where was that Dan??

I had no idea there were that many tezza's in the one place down south LOL. I would have deffo took a trip down if possible as the car is running although I am still having some probs with it.

Some real nice motors there. Very tidy.....

One thing I did notice that I haven't seen before is the chrome surrounds on the headlights of the blue tezza. They are different but I have to say I am not feeling them at all.

Anyway, I hope to meet up wth more of you guys throughout the year so keep me posted and I'll let you know of anything happening in the north you may be interested in.

Speaking of which, I think my car is being shown at the 'Passion 08' show in the Kings Hall, Belfast, 16th march. If you are there be sure to give me a shout.

Yeah very interested here too depending on size.

To be honest i would guess that most people would want a reasonably large size print if they wanted it as a feature picture. I know I would.

If I had a collection of other pics then I could fit in a smaller size frame along with them but unfortunately I don't LOL.

Mine is a Highly modified 2000 model with just over 70k

The missus has a standard 99 model with over 130k.

The biggest problem I have had between the two cars is a wheel bearing that I replaced on mine 3 times before having to replace the whole hub assembly. Problem is now solved.

You can usually pic up those 16" rims on eBay quite cheap but if you ever do have to buy tyres for them I think 16" tyres are dearer than most. Prob because they aren't as popular as other sizes.

Dunno about the 15's though but if they clear the brakes then you should be fine.

I have never done this on an IS before but I think the ball joints come complete with the suspension arms. In which case you will need a ball joint breaker to remove the joints and arms and the new ones should just bolt back in again. If the ball joints come seperate all together then I think they will need to be pressed in and out using a hydraulic press.

Someone who has done it will tell you for sure though.

Bout yee Bilal.

I have seen Bilals car several times and also did some work on it for him and it is a very nice IS. Lovely styling and very well kept.

Welcome to the club anyway mate.