ontheroad1

simplest way is the best like fitting a key to the Battery positive like the rally cars have also a touch pad under the carpet linked to the ignition, simple things confuse the thief especially when they cant see them and its totally not what they expect on an expensive car ( standard system left in of course ) they expect that

plenty out there but if the thief wants it they will get it regardless of what you put on it,

I watched a show on the TV where a chap had a Porsche 911 in London and had a 20k alarm system in it ( the car cost mega I suppose and it was a collectible ) the thieves simply came along with a side lift on a truck they type loggers use and its never been seen since

Tracker is the best and it dosnt surprise me at all about the thefts when some Lexus cars cost more than 100k

yes they are a little slow of the mark compared to the v8 but she likes them ( I was thinking a mini would be better for her lol ), im considering putting it into storage because of the condition and hopefully it will gain in value over the years.

ps: the car into storage lol but the other I wish

very simple job even easier than a vectra

it cant be modified unfortunately unless your going to great expense on new

im after a BMW 520 in exchange for my LS 400 so not a sale, it must be in extremely good condition with no modifications and preferably nightfire red or at least red and timing chain drive not belt driven like the early 520s, just got a 430 lex and its awesome so I want the other for my other half

she cant drive the lex because its auto and thinks its too long, typical women

full service history with all receipts 144k on the clock T/belt done at 120k etc etc

MOT January 2008,

TAX disabled so cant leave that on,

mint condition blue/gray metallic and full leather interior,

only one issue is a crack on the windscreen so its cheap to get it done on the insurance

mine is a November 1991 and has the fog lights built in/16"wheels with twin pot calipers and im told its a series 1

1. the radio has to be taken out and put into a place to have it reset because the code is set by the last owner "try the last 3 digits of the VIN". I paid £25 to get my code out

2. put the spare wheel on and see if it stops or do a rotation.

3. eBay

way over the top for me and its white, like the wheels though

its got the rear ac but no one ever gets in the rear lol but I understand what your saying so im going to get it re-gassed, £50 isn't bad im retired now so have to watch the pennies

thanks for the info, there is a little gas in the system but not enough to allow it to turn the ac clutch on so ill guess ill not bother with it since I never use it any way

clearly not my area of expertise but mine was working when I got the car and I was considering the cans from Halfords to test it out "even though I probably wont use it" car cost enough to run as it is being a the ls400 so whats the best way to use these cans and that they have leakseal in then including the required oil

Ive been told to connect it to the low pressure side and run the engine with aircon on?

if it doesnt work im considering removing the complete system because the weather here being crap most of the tine it dosnt seem to have any point it being there

the difference between a house fridge and a car aircon is the fact the house fridge is on all the time and even they loose pressure over the years, a cars system is used very little so when the pressure drops the seals loose their ability to stop any leaks and over a time they weep and crack,

aircon should be used periodically winter or summer to keep it in good condition and parts working

I went into our local halford to check the price of the aircon can and it was £19.99 Colby Newham branch

check the power steering cooler pipe just below the horns in front of the radiator,

its very exposed to the weather so tends to rust badly mine had pin holes in it so I cut a small section out and solved the leak but next time im going to change it to copper micro-bore pipe same stuff the use on household central heating,

easy way to get to it is remove the under shield on the front below the bumper

basically what I was referring to is that Lexus was over £100 cheaper than aftermarket so worth keeping it in mind when you shop around

some people get all the luck lol but im glad for you

just did mine for the same reason and after doing all the usual tests it turned out to be the alternator ( £239 from Lexus exchange ) that was a good price considering aftermarket places were asking £333+,

if you can get it running check the voltage output at the Battery it should be 14v so if it isn't and around 11v its the alternator

try a boost start with another Battery first to eliminate the starter motor

the Lexus wins hands down on looks and value for money

cats can be removed on this year model ( legally ) so that's a saving and wont effect the MOT so I recon fitting spark arrestor on the last 2 O2 sensors should eliminate this problem with cats removed,

o2 sensor just screws in the top which takes the second sensor out of reach of the first one so they cant match readings which is what sends the fault code saying its your cat.

https://webspace.utexas.edu/krk342/Pictures/Nonfouler2.JPG

Ive decided to go for the new alternator simply because its new and guaranteed so no false economy in the long run,

I was just going to renew the diode pack but knowing my luck the brushes would go soon after lol the alternator is the original one from new so 16 years old and that's not bad for ware and tare by any standard so a big plus for Toyota there,

Ive seen those parts on eBay and its ok if your looking for a major item but thanks for pointing it out to me,

it took me an hour to get the alternator out because I had to remove the power steering pump and a few other things but im quite pleased with that and its given me my confidence back because the v8 can be quite daunting to work on but now ill have a go at anything like the old days

just been taking to the guy who owns CS motors in Stockton and what a nice bloke he is,

he told me exactly what the problem was ( alternator diode ) as was suggested here so im going to bite the bullet and fit a new alternator,

he even told me the easiest way to remove it and its from the top of the engine not from the bottom which I thought but still a fiddly job but worth it because I love that car to bits,

thanks for all your help guys it was much appreciated

oh and just to let you know this guy only does Lexus so an expert on them he is also doing LPG conversions from £850 so worth a look at later

his phone number is 01642 666777 if you need him at any time and his garage is on the TOTAL garage at the rear in oxbridge Stockton on tees

dash lights dont flicker so I bought a new Battery to eliminate that and the main engine relay and it read 14.5 volts at the Battery but as soon as the revs drop to idle the voltage drops and the warning lights come on and a slight rev and they go off, im thinking its the diode pack but looks a pig to get that alternator out, any tips or is it just get in there and scrape the knuckles.

alternator cost from Toyota is £240 inc vat,

Battery cost £59.99 from Halfords,

main relay cost £18 from Toyota

anyone got a cheap/second hand/rebuilt alternator laying around