ontheroad1

ill definitely be interested if you find a diagnostic thing for this setup, I keep an eye on eBay because you get some good stuff there for diagnostics

cable not required on the early OBD setup

http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus/

this should help

my car did the same but I couldn't open the boot via the remote or the switch and all because of one fuse ( 10amp under the bonnet behind the Battery fuse box ) but do you have the steering wheel set to auto and does it alter when you direct the switch to the required position? if it works manually by that button then you need to press the auto button in

up date-she changed her mind ( women ) at last she understood the cost since I wasn't paying for it, I told her to wait a year or two and get it for half that price because of depreciation ( which is sad because these cars dont deserve this reputation ) but like all expensive limos that's the price you pay

car was shorter and lighter then there was the theft value not the car but the break in factor due to so many fancy things, never the less my wife wants one so ill get one but ill keep my old baby because I love it to bits

went for a test drive and very impressed but at 70k£ I think ill wait for a year till the price drops, my old ls400 feels better though, I didn't like all that dash thing with the parking or sat nav

totally useless because it couldn't produce the intake pressure required to equal a turbo

you dont mention what age your car is or what the car is?

nothing unusual about that I have 16" wheels on mine which was an upgrade in 1993 including breaks, mines a november 1991 series 1 with all the mods a 1993 has, large discs/twin piston calipers/16" wheels and standard according to the book

totally agree there Finnegans waxoil under seal you cant go wrong and it hand paints on like butter or you could spray it on

I would check the PCB first but you can get the fobs on eBay

http://search.ebay.co.uk/lexus-keys_W0QQfromZR40

interesting though not special, deadlocked and fitted a card entry with press button start very simple upgrade but expensive on parts and labour

behind the front bumper "in front of any radiators" and should be driver side

advanced mechanic - engineer, I also do a mean sweep up

its standard immobiliser with interior protection classified as cat1 but the insurance dont see it that way because it dosnt have a cat1 fitted certificate,

only way to reduce the premium is to have a cat1 fitted by a garage and a stamped certificate of proof ( a rip off if you ask me ) just insure it third party fire and theft TPFT.

I went through confused.com and put the price I wanted to pay which was £200 and got it for £231 so im pleased ( £350 comprehensive ) but you pay the first £350 excess so whats the point of comprehensive

does the remote work to lock the doors?? if not manually lock all the door ( not with the key ) then unlock either side front doors with the key this should turn the system off but will reset after you get out of the car and lock the doors,

the problem could be the remote PCB the computer board inside the key check the PCB with a magnifying glass to see if any of the tracks are broken

if system is still live and wont turn off it could be one of the door courtesy lights are blown check each one by opening the door and closing it the light should come on when open and go out when shut, any light that dosnt work will cause your symptom

thanks for the advice chris vince ill wait for a further report before going in there last thing I want to do is break it

not sure about the satnav systems but if you could disconnect the Battery and the radio worked without the code then the security on the radio has been turned off and you can do that with these systems, the hand book suggests you turn if off for the next buyer so they dont have to pay to get the code out like I did

unfortunately that wont work for the Lexus radio because from the factory it is coded so the buyer has to activate the security on the radio so its not a fixed code like other systems where you read the serial number and contact the type of site you posted,

only the person who set the code knows it not even the dealer cant help you there ( it has to be taken out and put into a place that can read the CMOS ).

sounds like a solenoid lock problem possibly a 62 code but since you just replaced it get another box and hopefully it will work ok

it could be a vacuum leak but definitely idle related so I would guess the IAC valve on top of the throttle body needs cleaning out,

I also doubt its the o2 sensors

"SEC" that's all , now its working and what a system big grins all over my face when I heard it for the first time.

code required is a 3 digit but if set by garage it might be the last 3 numbers of the VIN so nothing to loose by trying that

yes code reader required for the MK3, what type of ATF are you using because it has to be ATF T-II