Pewe

Thanks for the input Rob. I thought about the drivers door first as that is the only one that does not lock. BUT I didn't think the boot was on the locking circuit, and you mentioning that raises another thought. When I opened the boot after 2 years of laying up there was a mouse nest in there - so I wonder if they have chewed through a cable. I'll investigate further when the car comes back from the paint shop this weekend. Thanks for the thought.

Hmmm - but which one I wonder. When I lock the drivers door all locks activate - only the drivers one opens again - so maybe I have a look at that one first!!

Thanks Tigerfish. All other doors/boot/bonnet re closed. I had the car laid up for 2 years, and never thought to check the locking after putting it back on the road a couple of weeks ago, and only noticed the 'triple beeps' yesterday which resulted in my checking it.

My 94 GS300 has developed a central locking problem as follows. Using either the remote or the key, when locking the door all door locks activate and lock BUT then unlock again. They then lock/unlock twice more finishing with the drivers door unlocked, but all other doors locked. Before I go spending time stripping door panels, or a vast sum of cash with the local vehicle electrical shop, does anyone have any experience of this problem, or ideas where to start looking to identify it. Thanks.

Thanks Steve - gosh I didn't realise they were so expensive

Thanks Rob. If anyone has any info it would be appreciated - bummer bout your pics eh? As I was extracting the unit from the boot, the boot came down (strong winds here today) and almost knocked me out. I then realised that both the boot and bonnet stay pistons are not very strong - so will now have to find some replacements as I don't think they can be recharged. Oh well - now't like spending money!!! Thanks again

Hmmmm - I have hit a problem I have taken out the multi-changer unit and taken off the covers etc to find that the multi-change mechanism is fitted ABOVE the laser head (see here - http://uko.com/simplegallery - click thumbnail for larger size). So although the cd's are placed in the cartridge play side down, and laser should be visible/accessible from the top, the multi-changer is in the way. Has anyone removed this and be able to advise on how to go about it? NOTE: Recording discs at slower speed resulted in the cd playing longer (about 30 mins instead of 10) before jumping - but the problem was not eliminated.

Thanks for the video Steve - much appreciated.

I didn't. I took the unit to bits and then used pure alcohol and a shammy leather. Sorry, I should have said, what Steve says is right, cleaning disks do tend to bugger the autoloader. Taking the unit to bits is quite easy, just don't lose any of the tiny bits. When you get in there and see the head, don't touch it with your bare fingers, you don't want oil on it, alcohol on a shammy and rub gently. Thanks Rob. I'll try that and also re-record at a slower speed and see how it goes.

Rob. What did you use to clean your CD head. Looking at head cleaners (such as this one) they seem to say they are not suitable for multi change units.

Thanks Rob. 3 of the 5 CD's that exhibit the problem are brand new - unwrapped and copied just before using. So I'll have a go at cleaning the heads on the unit and see how it goes.

I know it's an old car nor, but having just put my GS300 (110K) back on the road after being parked up for a while I noticed that I have a problem playing CD's. If I play a original CD's (shop bought) they seem to play perfectly. However if I play home copied or compiled CD's there are problems. Some will play for a while then become 'jumpy', some will play the first few seconds then skip to the next CD in the tray, and some will just skip without playing. This occurs with ALL compiled/copied CD's of differing brands. Does anyone else experience problems with non original CD's, or could it be a problem with the player.

I'm not that young either. I got the cover from Saga - as a new customer with 9 Years confirmed no claim discount came to £109 pa, reduced when wife was added and with the house quote discount on top came down to £77 for the first year.

Thanks Steve. I will have a go at this over the weekend. At least its not all bad news. Last time I insured the GS it cost me over £200 fully comp, sole driver, £250 excess. This time it cost me £77 - fully comp, wife also driving, £150 excess. (This included a £30 discount for getting a House Insurance quote at the same time). So I've got £130 in my budget that I can use for the 'unexpected'. Thanks again.

Thanks Steve. I was a bit concerned about the rust. When it was being MOT'd I had 2 new tyres on the back (they had perished having been left standing) and when they had the wheels off a mechanic was looking at the brake disc and I overheard him say to the other 'he won't get away with that' - but he wouldn't comment when I asked him what he was referring to, he said I needed to look at the failure certificate. Thanks for the suggestion re the caliper pins, I will try what you suggested - the garage said they could not suggest what possibilities might be causing the unevenness unless they had the car in and stripped the brakes - at £60 per hour.

I have had my car ('94 GS300) sat up for 2 years. Attached is a photo of a disc rotor. This is after driving/braking for about 40 miles. The rust seen is 'pitted' into the rotor. I realise it would be best to replace them in an ideal world, but with money being tight, my question is - would this contribute to brake inefficiency and necessitate replacement. I had an MOT the other day and they although they failed on handbrake inefficiency, they did not mention brake inefficiency - only that on the front the brakes released 'unevenly'.

Thanks Steve. I took the car up the lane yesterday and tried stopping it on the handbrake. The travel seemed no different to me than when I last used it, and it stoped the car - obviously slowly, but no slower than my wifes Rover 416 - so I'm not sure what they mean by inefficient and when they state -no reverse travel. However, I assume that servicing the h/b drum means the rear caliper and pad assemblies have to be removed from the hubs to get at the handbrake parts on both sides? If so it may be worth overhauling the caliper seals at the same time? If so, I assume that is a relatively easy job - or are there special tools needed?

I have a MK1 1994 GS300. Due to financial problems it has been laid up for 2 years but I have decided to try and put it back on the road. Last week I took it for its MOT and it failed on 1. Parking Brake lever has no reverse travel 2. Parking Brake efficiency below requirements 3. Front Brakes - release unevenly 4. Front suspension Ball joints - excessive play (left and right) I will get the MOT centre to replace the bll joints (I can get them for about £50 a pair off eBay) and I am going to look at the front brakes problem - which may need a caliper service on one or both calipers. So any links to any info/instructions regarding servicing the calipers using a kit would be appreciated. The main issue is I have no idea how the handbrake (or probably better called the footbrake ) works on the GS300 and wondered if anyone has any links to any information about it (or a copy of the relevant pages from a service manual.) Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I could do with a copy of this too - I could even arrange for somewhere for a copy to be uploaded to - if anyone has one.

Ok -today had time to look for the problem. I took off the front and back covers to get access to the spark plugs and ht leads - and there it was - a mouse nest. During the short time I had the car parked up, the mice had built a nest under the rear cover and chewed completely through the HT lead to the rear sparlk plug. I repaired the lead using a sewing needle and some insulating tape, but obviously now need to replace the lead. Anyone know the best place to get a replacement lead from ????

Thanks for the suggestions guys, will try them over the weekend and see how it goes. If anyone has any other suggestions - please chip in.

90 views and no one any suggestions - I am surprised. Only a few days left and I'll have to take it in somewhere - ah well 'that's life'.

I have a '94 GS300 and it has been laid up for the last 11 months. After a quick battery charge it started immediately on first turnover this morning - but it is running lumpy. Forgive my mechanical ignorance, but I would describe the problem as the same sort of lumpiness when a four cylider is firing on 3 cylinders. Can anyone suggest what the issue may be (hopefully it it not overly complicated) so I can start some diagnosing. Thanks.

No - I got it from a company inn Bridgwater called Mill autosupplies (http://www.millautosupplies.co.uk/) who have numerous branches in the southwest. They are part of a large buying group covering a lot of the UK - http://www.ukpa.net/default.aspx?id=386292

This company do the kit for £13.86. http://www.car-brakes.co.uk/ On their home page use the 'online catalogue' link (box on top left of page) which opens a new window where you can select parts by model.