yoshi

Yeah Supra Mk iv gearbox in the Aristo V300 Mk.2

Hybrid turbos are stronger than stock, of course. But they fail. This is the consensus of Jap and US tuners who run big hp on the 2JZ-GTE block. No one recommends them. Proper turbo kit is the better route. As for the gearbox, my buddy up here has an Aristo V300 Mk.II running 600hp and his gearbox is starting to move around under power already. So yeah, I agree with Gaz you can run it with a stock gearbox for so long and then it'll blow, just replace it. Or go for a rebuilt stronger one in the first place. The stock block can take 800hp. That's a fact. No conrods or pistons or bottom end. 1.8bar is the peak boost on stock internals. THOR Racing verified. Even Project Supe-dog 1000hp ran a stock head gasket.

I assume your car is a JZS161 Mk.2 Aristo... Hybrid turbos are OK, but they're not reliable like a proper built turbo. Fine if you're prepared to have them blow on you at some point and from my investigations, you can only get hybrids to around 400hp anyway. In which case, just stick to stock turbos which are good for 400hp or 450hp if you talk to Pete at THOR racing. There are *no* twin turbo kits for the 2JZ-GTE engine anymore, all discontinued. So you have to go with a single blower, T61 is OK as it's not too laggy or T04R if you're into drag racing/don't mind the lag. The intercooler will have to be changed to accomodate an uprated turbo. Combine this with ECU, injectors, fuel pump, fuel controller and boost controller. Oil cooler, ATF cooler etc. is required also. I disagree you need a 3.1/3.4 kit for over 600hp. You can easily run 800hp with the stock engine + turbo kit. The stroker kit is useful of course, for more torque etc. so if you want to hit 200mph then the 3.1 stroker kit from Jun will do this for you. But it's expensive to rebuild. The whole point in the 2JZ-GTE engine is IT DOESN'T NEED REBUILT! I'm just boosting my JZS161 just now with intercooler/ecu. It's cheap and it'll give me 400hp on the stock turbos, that'll be useable and controllable. The intercooler is OK to 650hp so if I decide to buy a turbo kit, my car is ready for it. True - the gearbox will need rebuilt above 400/450hp. Again, I favour the 400hp tuning option as engine/turbo/gearbox all remains stock. Some people don't change the auto-box and just wear it out, replacing more often...that is another option. So to summarise 400hp - stock turbo/stock engine/stock gearbox 400-800hp - turbo kit/stock engine/uprated gearbox 800hp-1000hp - turbo kit/engine rebuild/uprated gearbox

Got some BIG stone chips after my spins on Saturday...hope they re-touch OK.

The latest flicks, including Aristo V300 versus Porsche 996 : http://www.lexusvertex.com/movies.htm

I run the Tein Flex with TRD anti-rolls and that's pretty good. Tein CS for nicer ride but sharp handling. Would say anti-roll bars THE most important upgrade on an aristo.

The TOMS ecu can be easily modified via the software, unlike the Blitz or MINES ecus. Fuel controller is fine, but to avoid using unreliable piggy back units, the TOMS ecu is a good option. The ecu will do some important tasks : - remove boost cut - remove speed limiter correctly (piggyback units do not work) - increase boost + fueling as desired using TOMS PC software. It's the ecu of choice for most Jap Aristo V300 owners. It is a good unit to use to 1.0 bar or so. After that I would use fuel + boost controller.

Steel lines are pretty cheap, I think 90 quid for a pack of 4. You can get Goodridge lines although I did break one of them on my Ford Mondeo. You could also try Project-U http://www.project-mu.co.jp Expensive, but nice lines also. Get the MOTUL 5.1 fluid or Castrol SRF if you can afford it (although SRF can eat seals I'm told).

Just to quickly knock this thread on it's head : - forget a 3.4L bottom - are you mad? Unless you're going for 800-1400 rwhp, that kind of mod is not neccessary. Jun do a 3.1 litre conversion which gives enough torque to hit 200mph in an Aristo, as one Jap guy has. - MON rating is important, best MON rating for higher boost apps is Optimax or BP Ultimate. DON'T PUT RON 95 FUEL IN YOUR ARISTO. - with a TOMS ecu or MINES, octane will need to be raised to 100 using silko octane booster. Links for the tuning places for Aristo are here : http://www.lexusvertex.com/aristov300_links.htm

With the TOMS ecu it will work 100% on a stock Aristo 2JZ-GTE. It runs 1.0bar sustained mostly, popping up to 1.2 bar over-boost occasionally. When running this ecu, correct MON rating (BP Ultimate) and octane booster will be required, as will the correct spark plugs. But that's all! I know the guy at THOR Racing is running an Aristo, stock everything except for spark plugs and a back box - his bhp is 450hp. The de-cat pipe I bought didn't make much difference, but I will be fitting it again to preserve my catalytic convertor - true the Aristo exhaust isn't that restrictive. The TOMS ecu gives stock Aristo - 350hp Aristo + air filter - 377ps Aristo + air filter + intercooler + downpipe - 392ps Figures from LOC.

The Lotus is pushing 260bhp per tonne. I'd need 450hp to stay with it in a straight line. I use Project-Mu pads, Goodridge steel lines, Motul 5.1 fluid and Black Diamond discs BUT with stock calipers (my 2nd set!). The brakes work A-1 if you do it right. You don't need any fancy brake kits or anything, just the right fluid/pad/disc/lines.

Keep your stock ECU. That's what I'm doing so I can swop it back for the winter season. Also, your stock ecu is worth something as you can send that to MINES to re-programmed for boost cut, speed-delimit, new fuel map etc. for around 700 quid.

I've just ordered a TOMS TEC ECU. It'll shove your car to 350hp just like that. Removes boost cut and speed limit. I've verified this with my Jap tuner and TOMS themselves. Your top speed will now be 260km/h or 173mph. One important thing is you'll need to change your sparkies to the correct Iridium plugs otherwise you'll blow your engine at the higher boost level. It runs 1.0bar typically, but overboosts to 1.2 sometimes. Can be reprogrammed with the TOMS TEC s/ware (in Jap). If you wanted to 50/50 for the software, I'm game. The software is 300 quid.

Here's the Subaru clip : http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristovssubaruwrx.mp4 It was ****** with rain and we were both on road tyres.

The mods are quite good so far - Tein Flex and the TRD anti-roll bars make a big difference. I'd advise anti-roll bars for everyone, they really make it corner flat. The 2 way LSD is good too, when you get the power down it's crazy. Works very well with a slick tyre. Of course there's vibration on wet/greasy roads at low speed as the LSD tries to 'limit slip'. On dry tarmac it wheel spins like Starsky & Hutch then grabs the surface. VSC off switch works well too, but was expensive. We cleaned 2 seconds off previous lap time on the greasy track...so I think maybe 3 seconds on a dry track. Next mods - oil cooler, ATF cooler, HKS Type S intercooler, MINES ECU.

It's not the battery. Check the sensors.

Any vids of your car on track?

Some of the above links don't work, here are the correct ones : http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsporsche944.mp4 (8Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vslotusvtec.mp4 (69Mb)

Some of the above links don't work, here are the correct ones : http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsporsche944.mp4 (8Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vslotusvtec.mp4 (69Mb)

Thanks dude, it's http://www.quicktime.com for the video player BTW. Got another to post up of racing a Subaru WRX Sti in the ****** rain....still couldn't get away from the Lex!

At Knockhill racing circuit on 30th October 05. http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aris...vslotusvtec.mp4 (69Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsmazda323.mp4 (23Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsmx6.mp4 (58Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aris...sporsche944.mp4 (8Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsevo6.mp4 (10Mb) --------------------------- Full-feature-thumping-techno-cut video of the entire day http://www.scottishcarclub.com/admc_30thoct05.mp4 (40Mb) ---------------------------- Close call - http://www.scottishcarclub.com/closeones_admcnov05.mp4 ---------------------- Aristo/GS vs Ultima from August if you missed it... http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristovsultima.mp4

That's the ABS sensor that's broken probably...good luck re-setting your ECU. Even after you fix the ABS sensor, it could still be screwed (the ecu). Let me know if it resets OK!

At Knockhill racing circuit on 30th October 05. http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aris...vslotusvtec.mp4 (69Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsmazda323.mp4 (23Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsmx6.mp4 (58Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aris...sporsche944.mp4 (8Mb) http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristov300vsevo6.mp4 (10Mb) --------------------------- Full-feature-thumping-techno-cut video of the entire day http://www.scottishcarclub.com/admc_30thoct05.mp4 (40Mb) ---------------------------- Close call - http://www.scottishcarclub.com/closeones_admcnov05.mp4 ---------------------- Aristo/GS vs Ultima from August if you missed it... http://www.scottishcarclub.com/aristovsultima.mp4

The rear steering rack can break if you need a spare PM me.

Apparently only way to de-limit a Mk.II is full ECU replacement at present.