yoshi

Anyone wanting to sell their Aristo V300 Mk.2? Must be black leather + touchscreen + F1 shift + 7 speaker stereo.

If you want more power without lag, then you have 3 options - anti-lag kit, anti-lag turbos (about 4-5K per turbo)...short life expectancy - fit 3.4 litre bottom end and cams + HKS turbo kit. This should give you a linear power graph, some guy did it in the USA @ 700hp and the dyno looked like a NA engine - strip weight from the vehicle. This is probably the most reliable, fastest, cheapest way to get your car to run faster. Roll cage, zero interior, plastic plexiglass. You should have the Aristo down to 1200 kilos if you do it right. That in itself will make your car go faster and stay reliable.

Your Vertex ( I presume Mk.2 2JZ-GTE Mk.iv engine) will take up to 450hp on stock turbos. Although longevity is debatable. That is a boost level of 1.2bar. If you do go for a kit, you want an HKS type which is rated to 550hp. You want the kit because otherwise the wastegate etc. is not correct. Just changing the turbo won't be as efficient. Remember at 550hp, your turbo will be a bit laggy especially with the auto-box. I would not get a turbo rated to above 550hp with the auto box. Downsides - you'll wear out your gearbox faster as it's only rated to a reliable 400hp. You'll need fuel pumps, bigger injectors, fuel controller and boost controller if you haven't got one. You'll also need a medium sized intercooler too (run the stock intercooler and you will kill your new 550hp rated turbo). Your power band will start most probably around 4500rpm and peaking at 6500rpm. That means it's all-or-nothing power delivery.

Don't fix it unless it's broken! I changed my timing belt to HKS model, at around 40,000 miles. Just the only preventitive measure I've taken. Remember, if the timing belt is changed incorrectly, the car will drive OK for a few weeks then the engine will pop. So just that operation in itself is risky. Spark plugs are type 7 or 8. I changed them about a year back. You shouldn't need any new hoses or pipes unless they're fractured/leaking. Best thing to do is change your oil regular (10W50 silkolene) and run proper RON100 gas (Optimax + octane booster). The car will last forever.

Knock sensors from HKS being sold off cheap/discontinued. Absolute 'mare to install. So I avoided one. Great if you're running big boost and have big turbo etc. etc. But for anything less than 500hp, not required. Rolling road visit should check to see if anything's knocking anyway.

I have found I can run 1.2bar on pump fuel with the standard fuel pump, the Air/Fuel looks a-OK and sits about 11.9. I guess with race fuel I could run 1.3bar and acheive 500hp. That is on stock turbo, engine, injectors and fuel pump. If you're wanting to run past 1.2bar on pump fuel, you'll need a Walbro. You'll also need a bigger turbo + a bigger intercooler to go with it.

How easy is it to fit was thinking of doing it my self Was there any modifications needed to make it fit? Yes, you will have to cut the bumper and use mesh. Or buy a proper front bumper from Veilside or Quest Power. If you are going to take your car to circuit, then the front mount IC will compromise your cooling and lead to over-heating quite possibly (problem I have). No problem running it on the road however. It'll increase lag slightly, but increase HP by about 20hp. However, the front mount IC is essential if you go for turbo upgrade and will also supply adequate air for the turbo should you wish to run high boost.

My car is running around 450hp on pump fuel @ 1.2bar boost ... http://www.lexusvertex.com If you run a MINES or TOMS ecu etc. you *must* run 100RON. If you run 98 ron, you risk detonation. Simply add some millers octane booster to RON98.

As long as it's a VVTI Mk.4 Supra ecu, it should work. That's the theory anyway, you'd have to try it. http://www.ooparts-international.co.jp will reprogram ECU for about 600 quid via MINES.

I went to halfrauds but the wiper blade book didn't have Lexus listed~?!?!?!?

Check Toyota/Lexus parts dept. for the right stuff. I use some aftermarket stuff my mechanic gets, can't remember the name. I think it takes 1-2 litres.

Just noticed this thread. Many Aristos seized of that year 'cos they were stolen. So it's probably been sitting around since 2000/2001. Engine/gearbox might work but brakes + master cylinder prob. shot.

The TOMS ecu or MINES ecu will not just remove the speed limiter properly, but it will remove boost limit, increase fueling (for when you turn boost up), advance ignition timing (more low end power). Dropping that ECU set to 1.0bar will increase the power from 280hp to 340/350hp immediately. Interestingly, I've been told that any Mk.iv Supra AUTO ecu will work in the Aristo, as it's the same car. That would need to be tried just to make sure, but it makes sense as it's the same engine/gearbox. ECU re-programming is about 600 quid and a full ECU is 1200 quid. I got my 2nd hand for much less but it was hard to come by.

I'd change to an HKS cambelt if you're doing it, for the small change it will cost you this belt is much stronger. Bear in mind, if the cambelt change is incorrectly done it will KILL your engine. Not immediately, maybe in a few weeks. So make sure you take it to someone proper - even make the trip to a Supra tuner. I like Thor-racing.co.uk in Coventry if that's close enough. Cambelt change for me was about 300 quid.

I run Tein Flex and previously ran Eibach lowering springs. You need to setup camber/caster anyway, after you fit ANY suspension. It needs it's entire geometry checked out. I never get uneven tyre wear as I get regular camber/caster setups (80 quid typically).

I bought the rubbers from Lexus, and we just couldn't get them on the blades. My mechanic couldn't either. I'll try that ebay supplier or Toyota dealer. I bought Bosch blades previously, they just didn't fit.

I've been to Halfords - no wipers for Lexus GS Mk.2 I've tried autobulbsdirect, they sent me universal type, they didn't fit. I've tried Lexus dealer but they only sell the rubbers. Which I can't for the life of me fit to my blades. Also, my current wipers seem to be 2 different sizes - 19" and 21"...weird? So any ideas where I can get some GS Mk.2 wipers?

The Blitz one didn't work. My tuner in Japan says no go for Auto box. So I've got the TOMS ecu which de-limits etc. Safest but more expensive way.

33psi is the correct inflation. At the track you can go for 45psi to stiffen the tyre wall, but grip will be less.

Possible problems : - the temp gauge is knackered and is misreading (I had this problem in my Mondeo) - the pump is knackered (easy to check)

Your comments are dog poo. Stock Aristo V300 versus Stock Supra Turbo : http://www.scottishcarclub.com/supraturboVsaristov300.avi

Watch out for the speed de-limiter. These piggy back units DO NOT WORK on the Auto box. It can jump gears which is dangerous. I use a full ECU replacement to delimit the car (TOMS). Chromes - keep them off the car outside of summer months. I have a spare set of 4 x 17" Lexus wheels if you need them.

Yup...although you might find it a bit more difficult at Crail to find your 14.1s as the surface is rubbish. I know you need around 800hp to run 12.0s or less.....

We got a Micra in our Scottish Car Club...it'll kick yer *****, runs 12 second 1/4 miles lol. Not all Micras are created equal! I checked out a new rear bumper when I had a dent in it, it was 1100+VAT (but it came painted) from Japan. So I would advise you to get it re-sprayed. Bodykits can be made of cheap junk, and you have to get skirts, front end and rear end all painted, it's a lot of dollars for minor enhancement. I run the TRD anti-roll bars and the Tein Flex suspension, the difference in handling is unbelievable and can stay thru the corners with Subarus, M3s etc. although the Evo might just get away from you if driven very hard.

On a stock Aristo, 1.1 bar is OK. This equates to 50% over-boost via a Blitz boost controller. Past that, the fuel cut will come in for safety. I now have a TOMS ecu, so fuel cut is removed. My fuel map is enhanced also by the TOMS ecu. As a result, I ran 1.2 bar recently and took the RWD 1st place at Car Club Shootout 1/4 mile event. :) The difference would appear for 1/4 mile times stock - 15.1s @ 94mph boost up to 1.1 bar - 14.1s @ 99mph boost up to 1.2 bar, with downpipe, competition cat, intercooler, ecu - 13.5s @ 104mph I would expect that time to be lower with at Santa Pod as the surface at Crail is ***** and I was running a road tyre. To give you an idea how ***** the surface is, BMW M5 400hp runs 14.1s at Crail but the manufacturer will claim 13.7s. ** Also, I run an Air/fuel ratio meter which tells me when I'm getting to the dangerous side of too much boost. 1.3 bar WILL kill your engine if you under fuel ***