E910

These engines go quiet well when put into a lighter body. My RS200 moves along quickly enough, although theres a lot of weight for 210hp to move off the line quickly. You'll probably find the MAF sensor & throttle body need cleaning & the previous owner is was running 10w40 in it. The run so much better with a decent 5w30 like Motul 8100 or Mobil1 & a decent set of iridium plugs like Denso VK20 or NGK BKR6EIX11. Your average 40 weight oil in these engines puts to much drag on the VVTi system & 10w40 semi syn turns to sludge clogging up the solenoids. If you're going to be rallying it then you probably want to look at Motul 300V 5w40 as its a thin 40 weight but proper ester synthetic for race protection.

I'd have a chat to this guy, Celica RA45 >> http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=11266 >> http://www.tezzaworld.com/viewtopic.php?t=5040 He makes ITB manifolds for the 3SGE & has made some decent power

Does the IS220 have separate a DPF? Looking in the parts catalogue I would say it's in the cat housing http://www.toyodiy.c...1.html?hl=25051
Make sure you're running the correct low ash engine oil (C3 5w30) to keep them clean. Does the IS220 have an auto burn off/cleaning mode like the Hiace vans do for the DPF?
Also running some genuine Toyota D4-D injector cleaner through can help keep things running smoothly. Part number is 08813-00860 for diesel engines.

It's a JDM genuine accessory front cover for the Altzza Gita wagon. Pretty common in these neck of the woods.

Japanese number plates are much smaller than european plates, even our little NZ plates with only 6 digits on them are about an inch wider. Don't know where the story about motor bike plates comes from but it couldn't be any further from reality.

The IS300 came in manual form in the US as well. They don't all drive autos. Most cars designed for the LHD market had the park brake closest to the driver. Just look in any Peugeot for example.

Cheapest option would be to put a 2nd hand motor in it rather than mucking around with the head. Plenty in Ireland if you cant find any in blighty

Best to stick with Japanese plugs in a Japanese engine they say

Could track down the factory boby kit, known as "Elegant Sports" or "Neo Customize Sports / Legana" depending on the front. (Some misinformed people call it trd )

Will helpp bring the body closer to the ground

Dry filters like Apexi & TRD are generally only good for the same lenth as an OE filter where as K&N last for ever. You only need to clean them every 50K miles under normal conditions.

NGK - BKR6EIX11 or Denso - VK20 are what you want. I've run both & they're very good. What plugs did you put in?

If in doubt about it's age change it. Then you'll have the piece of mind knowing it's not going to break on you.

I agree with sprinter2012, getting a clear coat on top makes all the difference.

I took to mine with a wire brush attached to a drill then put a coat of clear over the black. Been on there nearly 2 years now.

Went with black myself. Can't go wrong. Doesn't fade of show up brake dust like light colours do

Could go with a metalic black & decals if you want to bling it up a bit

Usally cleaning the MAF sensor sorts out that flat spot. Did you use a proper MAF sensor cleaner or something else?

Doesn't sound like a very good mechanic. If you're coils are going it due to the plugs being worn out. Did he not tell you to change them as well?

Is there any coolant in the system? If so how old is it or has it been raplaced with with water when you've topped up? It's anti freeze as well as anti boil so if it's old or too watered down it will boil on a hot day.

Radiator stop leak is only a very temporary fix. It blocks up the sytem after a while & causes more problems than it fixes. You'll want to flush the entire system & put a new thermostat in it. If you want to fix a leak properly then use Irontite.

Front lower ball joints is the first place I'd look. Very common. Replace them with genuine if you can

I can get new ones for £33 + postage. I work at a Toyota/Lexus dealer over here in NZ now.

The old didn't plug everything back in properly haha good to hear you got it sorted.

The oil in the inlet isn't a leak. It's from the PCV. I clean mine out once a year

If she stalled the engine then there would be no vacuum to make the brake booster work, hence no brakes. Have a read of this http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/power-brake.htm.

Tell he to pull up the e-brake next time

My EBC Green Stuff made a mess of the wheels for the first few 100 miles. That layer takes longer to wear off than you think. Did you put any copper coat or the likes behind the shims etc to stop noise? Pads normally make a high pitched squealing noise, I'd be checking other things if it's groaning?

What engine is in it? If it's the 3SGE clean the MAF sensor & throttle body and see if that helps

Get some Denso VK20 or SK20R11 &/or NGK BKR6EIX11 iridium plugs into it. It'll love you for it.

What oil you using? With the colder mornings it wont be flowing as well as it did back in summer I'd say. Put some 0w30 in for the winter months.

Every one on here will tell you to take it to WIM

Time for a new Battery? Put a multi meter on it in the morning to see what voltage it's holding. Best to replace it before winter.

I think 90% of Qualitat's came in that colour. It's a nice colour. Where about you based?