E910

Have the same issue with mine. It's not there all the time though. Had a mechanic take a quick look at it & it wouldn't make a noise...couldn't see anything obvious either. Will have to get it on the hoist & investigate further. Hopefully one of us can find a cure

If you want to keep the car looking stock then I'd just invest in some decent pads like EBC Green or Red Stuff. If you don't mind having slotted rotors poking out from under your front wheels then they would be a good match with the pads otherwise just get the OE ones skimmed if they're still within the size limit.

I don't know how many times I've recommended Red Line MT-90 for the 6MT but it is the best oil for this gear box by far. Everyone should be running it.

I only used two bottles when I did mine as well. You wont regret putting it in.

If you'd had a look in the Altezza section you probably would have found the answer already. Clean the MAF sensor & throttle body...

5w30 in the gearbox I'm confused. What oil did you get? Can you post a link maybe.

I just had a look on the Opie site & it lists 75w90 for the gearbox & 5w30 for the engine. You didn't put engine oil in the gearbox did you

The genuine part is only available as a complete arm. TRD & aftermarket brands do the bush separate though.

You could chuck a K&N filter at it, some iridium spark plugs & maybe a high flow back box. You might net 5-10hp but it should make it rev a bit more freely & use a little less gas. I wouldn't bother with much more than that with the 1GFE. If you can't make it go like a sports car you can at least make it handle like one. Lower it, strut braces & stiffer rear sway bars should keep you happy on the B roads for a while.

Bad luck mate. They're an interference motor so I'd say you'll have a couple of bent valves at least. If you need parts that you can't get in the UK contact nick@nst.co.nz

Out of interest what brand of belt was on it. You're not the first person to have a belt break on them but they're always aftermarket ones that do. Stick to genuine belts with these engines

Clean the throttle body & MAF sensor. That should sort it

Lower ball joints would be the first place I'd look

Yes I have an LSD so I run 80w140 rather than 75w90. I don't know that I'd run MT-90 in the diff, it's primarily designed for manual trans being a GL4. Redline do make a GL5 75w90 for diffs.

You can run a GL4/5 75w90 like Motul Molygear or Fuchs Titan Gear Syn in the trans & diff. It may save you a few quid but it doesn't offer the same level of protection as a fully synthetic product like Redline or Amsoil (still it's going to be better than what most garages would use I'd say).

If your car has the factory amp you'll need to get the by-pass cable as well. Not that hard to do.

Maybe ask on TezzaWorld for installation recommendations in your area.

This thread may be of some help to you as well http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=72762

Had a similar problem with a slow leak in both rears. Turned out when I had the tyres fitted a bit of dirt had got in the bead & pitted it. Put a whole lot of bead sealer on & it's been grand ever since. We initially changed the valves which fixed one of the tyres. Can take a couple goes to find a slow leak.

Definitely worth doing. I did mine at 80K km (50K m). I did use better oil than what your garage would use so I noticed quiet a big difference. Made it much smoother.

If you can be bothered get your hands on some Redline MT-90 75w90 for the gearbox & 80w140 for the diff from Opie oils

You need approx. 2L of GL4 75w90. RedLine MT-90 is one of the best oils for the job as mentioned already in this post.

Welcome to the joys of owning a modern car & not having a hoist to put it on. I only did one service at home & nearly put my neck out. I take it into work on a Saturday morning now & use the hoist.

Why on earth did you put additive in?! The whole point of using RedLine MT90 is it's brilliant oil on it's own. You've basically wasted your money.

Looking at the Lucas data sheet it's for auto trans or manual trans running atf or 10w30. MT90 is 75w90 GL4. The additive could potentially cause premature synchro wear. You've also mixed mineral oil with fully synthetic. You couldn't have made a bigger mistake if you'd tried. I'd drain it out & start again mate.

Probably have to have the secondary section of the manifold custom made. You won't find anything off the shelf unfortunately.

Just make sure you change your IK20's at the recommended service intervals. They're only good for 20K compared to the SK20R11 which are good for 100K (that's km's not miles too)

Very common problem, seems it could release bearing, spigot bearing or dual mass flywheel causing the noise. Doesn't seem to cause any harm just annoying on a nice car like this.

There's a good thread here with peoples different findings http://z4.invisionfr...showtopic=11129

Time to change the oil I'd say. Mine was like that when I first got it. Put Redline MT-90 in & it's been grand ever since. You can't beat fully synthetic gear oil IMO. Opie Oils is probably the best place to get it from.

What's the chassis number? Is it SXE10? It could be an IS200 with an engine transplant

Bad luck for buying a base model. You need 275mm rotors. The genuine part number is 43512-22220 according to ToyoDIY.com You could try your local Toyota/Lexus dealer.

I know they use the same pads as the Lexus ES300, which also have 275mm rotors so that would be a good place to start looking.

You could always just put some twin pot calipers off a IS/RS200 on with the 296mm rotors. It's a simple bolt on upgrade.

What year is your car? Seems they range from 2.3 - 2.8L http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/IS_98-05/sds/sds476e/is300200_gasoline.pdf http://bahamutcars.f...00_gasoline.pdf Check in N when hot