is200 Newbie

Car is now on 78761 miles - 79 miles done this week (tried not to use it as much due to a sensor failure) - 1772 miles travelled since changing the oil. level and colour is still the same. Will be interesting to see what affect changing both Bank 1 and 2 sensors have on it if any.

I have replaced Bank 2, Sensor 1 now and the guide on how to do this is in the How to Guides section for IS250

The offending lip is shown in the picture below - just use a dremil drill to clean the lip up and also the insert in the disc that this locates into. You will see what I mean when you take it off as there will be a lot of rust and dirt also collects there. I actually ground a bit off the dust shield and the noise did not return. It may be something else but this was what resolved it for myself and a few others with the same issue. picture below

I think you will find that the noise is actually coming from the rear wheels. There is a dust/dirt shield on the rear discs - there is a groove in the disc that this shield locates into. After a while it rusts and the metal causes the squeeling noise. I had this on mine a few years ago and I did post the remedy for it - will have a look to see if I can find it. It just needs a clean - nothing to replace.

James - as Colin said .... The sensor I changed was the B1,S1 - Air fuel ratio sensor located in the engine bay - the sensor before the cat (drivers side) The sensor I will be doing tomorrow will be B2,S1 - Air fuel ratio sensor located in the engine bay - the sensor before the cat (passenger side) There are, as you stated above, 4 sensors in total. I have purchased two of the 234-9051 Denso sensors. The one I have replaced yesterday was fine. I have had a look at the other one and the wire length looks ok as well. Will post another how to after the second one is done. Both sensors, including postage cost me 246 usd - I didn't get hammered for duty (lucky break)

with normski on that one

I cant seem to match the pictures up with the text so have indicated the picture number within the text. I will be doing the second sensor at the weekend if the weather holds and will post the how to for that one then.

O2 sensor replacement Check VSC / traction / warning and engine lights came on recently. It started as an intermittent fault, they would light up on the way to work and go off on way home - it happened for 3 days until the lights came on permanently. I had no choice to drive it - I bought an ODBII reader and it reported back on Bank 1 Sensor 1 failure. I ordered two new sensors - Denso 234-9051 from the USA and they came this morning I am replacing both sensor 1's (Bank 1 and 2) Drivers and Passenger side as it makes sense as they have been in the car for the same length of time and while I am doing one I will do the other. Bank 1, Sensor 1 is on the drivers side / Bank 1, Sensor 1 is on the passenger side. Both are accessible from the engine bay. I replaced Bank 1, Sensor 1 tonight as this was the one reporting a failure. It took 15 mins (if that). Firstly I removed the drivers side engine cover Next, to get to the sensor easier, loosen and remove the fuse box shown in the picture below using a 10mm socket Do not remove from the car - just loosen - there is one 10mm bolt and one 10mm nut to take out - lift the fuse box out of the way as per the picture below You can now see the sensor and its also easier to remove. To remove, I used a 22mm 7/8 socket - open ended sensor socket - place this (or whatever you are using) over the sensor nut and loosen only - you may need some WD40 and a SMALL tap on the socket from a hammer to encourage it to move at first - don't take it off at this point First remove the sensor wire socket from the cars connecting plug - you will see from the new sensor you would have bought before doing this that there is a small securing lug on one side of the plug. Picture below is of the sensor plug still attached to the cars socket - a bit obscured To remove this you need to press down on a tab to the rear of the plug on the car which can be found on the side of the plug facing the bulkhead. While pressing on the tab gently pull the wire and the plug will come out of the socket. In taking the fuse box out of the way there is enough room to get both your hands into the sensor area. Once this is off I secured the wire with a bit of tape to an upper hose so I would not lose it into the depths of the car if I dropped it when the socket come off - I think it would drop through the bottom of the car but just in case it didn't I secured the wire. Next, remove the sensor itself. Doing it this way it will not twist the wire up as there are quite a few turns required to remove the sensor. With the sensor removed - (dead one shown below) Replace with the new one. Place the anti sieze compound on the threads of the new one before inserting it into its location. Put the sensor in first and then once secured fully, plug it into the cars socket. Replace the fuse box and engine cover. Job Done - re-connect the battery and you should have no more nasty lights on the dash. Reset the windows once you are happy with the job. I checked the error had gone by re-scanning the car with the ODB reader again. Noticeable differences. There are obviously a few - quieter running / revs are way down / too early to report on fuel consumption / car is now not lumpy when idling. Next job would be to do Bank 2, Sensor 1 - that's a weekend job as its getting a bit dark now. Pictures below of before and after on engine report Before After

I agree ... It is being a bit OCD but to be honest mines running fine with a dead sensor - the only indication there is something wrong is sooty exhaust tips otherwise there's no indication there's an issue at all. I have reset the ECU to see if the Bank 1 Sensor 2 was becoming an issue (luckily its not) but the lights are out on the dash and the code is still registering. Ignoring it not knowing it had gone would destroy the cat and I would hate to think what that would cost on this. I have been told it will be fine on one cat but have no evidence of anyone having experienced this. Its an issue to argue, price wise, if there is a fault found and you want the car.

From ebay I have bought a Bluetooth unit and I have kept it plugged into the car and monitored it for a week - I have got an issue with a sensor that needs to be replaced and this is a nice bit of kit - highly customiseable with the info it shows. I have it linked to a tablet and the info it shows is brilliant - error codes / coolant temp / Hp / speed / torque etc The tablets set up in the car for the time being as I get the correct info set up on it. Do a search for this on ebay .... Torque ELM 327 Bluetooth BT OBD2 car diagnostic scanner ... cost £10 and then download the Torque app(£2) to your phone / laptop or tablet (don't think it will work with Apple tho) It does actually run through a good few tests as you will see - any stored codes will be brought up. Its just piece of mind really and the kit will be useful in the future. Its not like the normal reader where it will show a code only - it will bring up the code, then link it to the web and give you a description of the fault etc... Things to look out for are seized calipers / exhaust on its way out / uneven tyre wear / coolant level / cigarette lighter working for phone charger etc / wheel locking nut key is present / check all windows work - if some don't then its an indication that the ecu has been reset. - ask the owner why it was serviced at an indie garage for the last one and get a list of the work done. The sensors I have ordered are due to be delivered tomorrow and I was planning to put a post up on how to change them this week and the ODB scan results will be described also as a before and after as this scanner reports on sensor efficiency also. As for the service - I have done all my own - its not hard to do if you have the time and the space to do it in. The only time consuming job is the spark plug change with a cost for the parts at approx £100 (I need to do mine). A dealer 60k service will cost you around £600. With a car with this mileage on it does the service history matter really that much if you partex's it in the future the garage will be wary of any car with a high mileage - I think knowing its done is more of a benefit for the current owner rather than anyone else at this mileage. Depends at how long you want to keep the car.

The grey one - is priced better than the silver one. The silver one is a forecourt price. 60k is a major service so make sure with them both that its been done - better to have had it done by a dealer I think. Spark plugs is a main change at this interval. The silver one states it has a sunroof - I don't think it does looking at the pictures. They are both the same spec. Personally I like both colours but If I had to pick it would be the grey one. If you can, put an ODB scanner on them to check for any stored errors but the garage may have reset any they would have had.

@Gary Have you still got this problem?

Car is now on 78,682 - 132 miles done since last checking the oil and 1693 miles since initially changing No change in the level - its still the same at a 3rd of a litre used. Colour seems lighter this week but may be the light shining on the oil.

Is this the bumper reflectors or actual lights

Last year I priced an exhaust up - only available at the time from Lexus at £2700 fitted for centre section and back boxes ! Had one made in the end in SS for a fraction of the cost !

Found both sensor locations - bank 1 looks very easy to replace (10 minute job if it comes off easy)- bank 2 looks easy but will need to remove some parts to get to it. Its a job for the bank holiday ! Parts will cost £200 max - why do Lexus charge over £600 to replace these? Criminal !

Had the car over a year now and not used it - didnt know it was there to be honest Don't want to use it really until I get the sensor replaced but ... yes - very good

I definitely need to do the faulty one - US web sites were reporting that its located on the passenger side but I guess that make sense now as they are left hand drive - not had a chance to look at the location of it yet or what I need to remove to get to it. Will have a look at the weekend Depending on how easy the other one is I may do that one as well when they arrive,

Tried the kickdown switch tonight - ***** ... it was like switching nitro on ! I take it that this is only to be used for overtaking in an emergency?

Judder is still there but not as bad as before - the rear discs need doing anyway so I will get them done first - if no change then its the front discs. That's after replacing the sensor that's gone !

You can replace the pins on the front - its a caliper replacement on the back. Pins I think are around £10 each but there are two different types on the fronts - one with a rubber seal insert on the pin and the other is just a straight pin itself.

Hi Colin I ordered these two from aimsautoparts I had a look at Rock Auto but they were quoting 29th of August for delivery and were a bit dearer by £20 for the two. I have had email notification today that they have been despatched with an expected date of 20th for delivery. We'll see.

James I have a problem with my O2 sensor and have been looking through a lot of web sites for info and to see where I can get replacements from. I cant remember where I saw it (saw it mentioned on two sites or forums) There was an issue, same as yours, where the driver could smell fuel when driving - turned out, in their case, that there was a faulty sensor. Might be worth your while looking down this route - can you have the car fault codes read to see if theres anything recorded?

Thanks Mark I have ordered 2 from the USA - Cost for the two Denso's was £135 including postage. Just need to see what duty I will be hit with, think it will come to a further £50 making the cost for the two at £185. I don't think that's too bad. Like you said, it makes sense doing them both. I bought the 234-9051, same for both sides. Could not find any at all in the UK - there's some on Amazon USA but they wont ship these to the UK. Would be a good idea for people with these cars that are travelling to the USA to pick up a few and bring them back with them. The expected delivery date is around the 21st of August (end of next week) If I drive it up to that point am I likely to cause any serious damage? The Check VSC is coming on and going off so I think the sensor may be on its way out but not dead yet? Thanks for the advise/info - if I can manage to fit myself I will post up some pictures

Thanks Colin I am looking for a sensor tool at the moment as I don't want to use an open head spanner in case the sensors on too tight and I destroy the nut on the sensor - I believe they are 22mm sized, is that right? Also there does not seem to be any information regarding the replacement of this sensor around on the web - if I am doing it I will put up some pictures as a "how to guide" There are a few pictures of the location of this sensor on the web but the ones I have found have contradicted each other. On a UK car (looking at the engine from the front of the car) what side would I find the Bank 1 Sensor 1 on and is it easily accessable from the engine bay - I would have a look but its raining cats and dogs at the moment. Are the left and right sensors the same - if I found a right one would that fit the left side and visa versa ?