jtanoyo1

Hmmmm...it will be the same as supra. I believe you can get the wiring diagram straight from the apexi's website. It's the same for all cars and all turbo timers. Good luck.

When I installed my Apex'i turbotimer, I also bought the HKS harness kit that will plug into your stock ignition and also your turbotimer. It really eliminates cutting and splicing into your harness and you really don't want to do that, especially since it's got a lot to do with ignition, you know. A mere 10 minutes install. :)

Dang, boy, you are everywhere!!!!!! :D

20" Dronell 3-pc forged wheels straight from Japan. :P

Hehehe, with the mods I have on the car right now, I believe they are quite a weebit less than 5 seconds now. My current spec is right around the 450rwhp mark. Anymore and I would be blowing my transmission.... Thanks for the comments guys. :D

They are not supposed to be the "cooler, less rice" version of neon. They are supposed to only turn on when you unlock your car through your remote or when you open your door to illuminate the entrance area around your car, especially nifty and safer when the surrounding area around you is very dark and unlit. You don't want to be steppin' into the dog poop now, do you? hehehehe.

Maybe my car might be able to convince you to go down the VIP route and still have a TT engine underneath the hood? *grins* http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=17828

The dronells are the wheels on the first 2 pics. I am not sure what else kind of pics are you looking for. The autocouture are cast 2-pc wheels. :)

Heeeeeeey, that place looks familiar. Have you taken me there when I visited you in HK alex?

LOL, you don't want my toyota badges man. I live 10,000 km away from you, the shipping alone would cost more than the badges. You'd be better off going to a Toyota dealership and get them. They should be pretty similar or identical for most other cars. I know Toyota doesn't make them in all different sizes for the grills. It would be economically unsound.

Thanks, skeet. I replied your PM, hope I've helped somewhat.

DSR monoblock aluminium big brake kit (courtesy of Alex):

Custom S-class LED sidemarkers grafted into stock Aristo housing...

Sorry guys, the new wheels are the 20" Dronell BR 3-pc forged wheels that are on the first 2 pictures. I sold the 19" Autocoutures and traded up to the Dronells which are of MUCH BETTER build and quality. When I switched the wheels, the steering becomes lighter, the car feels less like a steamroller and becomes so much more agile. Probably because the dronells are so much lighter and better constructed than the Autocouture. (not to mention more expensive...grrr....) You can find the rest of the pictures and my mod list at my cardomain site: http://www.cardomain.com/id/v300ve Thanks guys!

Car: 2000 Toyota Aristo V300VE Mod level: BPU +++ Before my new wheels: Enjoy and comments are welcomed. :)

It's is a direct replacement. I have swapped them before (when I wanted an all around Lexus badge), but now I've gone with an AB Flug cf grill so I am completely debadged. :)

Here's my HKS SS-BOV with the HKS RS polished intake and HKS type-S intercooler with matching HKS polished pipe...phew, that's a mouthful.

I've got the Apexi pen-thin turbo timer installed using a HKS harness that directly plugs into ignition. The problem is the car's alarm won't arm itself coz it was fooled into thinking that the engine is still running. You will have to lock your car with the key and not with the remote. But that's not the right proper way to do it....

Here's my Apex'i turbo timer on my aristo TT. You should invest in a turbo timer because your car needs to cool down for a minute or two before u shut down the engine after a spirited drive. So, unless u wanna chill in your parking lot while the hot oil moves off your engine, you should invest in a turbo timer..... :D Turbo timer

Never mind guys, it was a faulty fuel level meter that happened at the same moment when my battery died. I opened the whole fuel tank and my tank was completely bone dry of fuel!!! The meter registered 1/4 tank left. Must be something to do with dying battery and having the needle stuck at 1/4 when it was in fact empty! Oh well, a full tank of gas later, problem solved!

Spend a couple of hundred bucks and buy the TOM's ARS canceller and you will never have problem with your ARS ever again. Not only does it removes the strange buoyant driving feel with the ARS, but I bet you that you will be able to align your car quite easily after that.

Yeh, I got them wonderful folding mirrors on my Aristo V300VE too. Sure does pennies to surprise the parking attendants hehehehe.

The reason why the GS or any other car tested by the car mags posts such low 0-60 numbers is because they are tested at the tracks (not real life driving condition) or the drivers are very seasoned professionals (again, very much unlike the rest of us). You'd be hard-pressed to replicate those numbers by yourself, or worse, with a nervous dealer next to you holding a stopwatch! :duh:

Hey guys, I tried the search button but could not find what I was looking for. I drive a Toyota Aristo V300VE. It comes with some minor mods: piggyback ecu (fuel computer, Australian made), HKS SSBOV, Apex'i AVC-R, HKS super megaflow intake and TRD exhaust and Clifford Matrix 3 alarm. Anyway, I was installing a turbo timer the other day and it was at night so I left the dome light on for quite a few hours and sure enough, the next day the battery was drained and went dead. I had to go out of town the same day so I figured, screw it, I will fix that when I came back in 2 days. So, I was back and tried to jump-start the car in the morning and the car starts up just fine. I thought i'd let it idle for a few minutes while the battery recharges itself. However, after maybe about 3-5 minutes, the battery dead error light turns on on my dash and the car chugs and dies. So I thought, oh this battery is bust. I called up a service where a guy would come over and take your old battery away and installed a new one for you. I had to go to work immediately so I had someone wait and watch over while the guy came over to do the battery swap. Anyway, I was at work and my friend called me and told me the battery was swapped and the car was running fine for a while before it mysteriously stalled by itself. I rushed over home as quick as possible and sure enough, he was right. The car would start, idled at 600 rpm for 5 seconds, then stalls immediately. Sometimes, it would start, then idled at 600, 500, 400, chug chug chug, 200, stalls. The worst time would be when I started it up and it died just as quickly (turns on, 600 rpm, dies). Also, if it managed to idle for that 5 seconds, I would press on the gas pedal hoping to get the rpm up but the car won't respond at all and dies almost immediately. I eliminated the alarm ignition kill system because the Clifford tech came over and checked it out and bypassed the alarm system completely and the car still won't idle. It just keeps stalling. I also resetted the ECU several times (even leaving the battery off overnight). I checked the EFI fuse and it was fine. Radio, a/c, lights, all work fine in the "on" position. Car has 17,000km (13,000 miles or thereabout), recently switched to full-synthetic mobil 1 15w-50 right before turbo timer install. Any help would be very very appreciated.

I had my tires at 34psi all around before on my stock 17" wheels and the ride was horrible. It was teeth-jarring. Ever since then, I had them at 32psi and the car rides like dream. So I am not sure about you folks who are putting in 37psi or (*** Forbid!) 42 psi on your stockers......I can't imagine how you drive on them. :o