eddiea1

i agree - when i test drive the IS250, it's really gonna have to make me go ultra weak at the knees before i even consider parting with my IS300! :winky: ← same here - I was waiting for the 350 myself - Im not sure why they wont import it to the UK to be honest - Im sure they would have sold enough to justify it......

but if the car is fixed it wont be classed as any of these categories, however Im sure the resale value will be affected

Category D - Repairable. Probably non-structural damage. May have been economic to repair, but insurer doesn't want to. this means if it is repaired then the IS300 will be fixed. Category D is where it will be written off by the insurer because they didnt feel it was economic to repair rather than replace the car.............. heres the categories: Category A - Must be crushed. All of it. Category B - Vehicle may not be returned to road. Parts may be sold. Category C - Repairable. Possibly structural damage. Cost of damage (at dealer prices and labour rates) is more than book value of vehicle. Category D - Repairable. Probably non-structural damage. May have been economic to repair, but insurer doesn't want to. Category X - Repairable. Minor Danage.

Well here is the estimate for repairs so far (subject to stripping) for approval by the insurers........ Labour Spraying £3,900 Paint & Material £560.00 Sundries inc EPA (whatever that is) £22.00 Wax £14.00 Recovery £95.00 Rear Screen Spec Charge £70.00 Air Con Spec Charge £85.00 Plus new parts: 1 Bonnet Panel 1 set of bonnet stickers 1 front bumper (sport) 1 set of bumper grilles and badge 1 O/S Front Head Light Panel 1 N/S Front Head Light Panel 1 O/S Front head Light 1 N/S Front head Light 1 Landing Panel 1 Landing Panel Sticker 1 set of radiators 1 O/S Front Wing 1 Front air box case 1 N/S Rear light panel 1 N/S Rear light 1 O/S Rear light 1 Rear Bumper and Spoiler 1 Rear Bumper and Backing 1 Boot Panel Lid 1 Back Panel Back Panel trims and Clips 2 Rear Chassis end Caps 1 N/S Rear Q Panel 1 N/S Rear Q Panel Sticker 1 O/S Rear Q Panel sticker 1 Rear Boot Cross Chassis Member 1 Boot floor under tray 1 N/S Rear Gusset Panel 1 N/S Rear Lower Air Vent 1 N/S Rear Outer Chassis member 1 Set of N/S rear side chassis panel 1 Locking wheel nut case 1 Tool Tray Cover 1 Rear exhaust Box Other parts subject to stripping so what do you think, repair or write-off???

was a different accident. The Seat involved in our accident was at the front and just drove off I think the damage goes right back to the back of the boot. Also just saw some damage to the driver's side roof pillar where the bike rack was - there was a kink in the A-pillar. Also the rear passenger side door is not closing properly.......anyhow they reckon the car will be in the repair shop for a month if its not a write-off. Im getting a Lexus IS200 Navigator to use as a courtesy car in the meantime.

V Reg S-Type tell me about it - no sleep last night but my back wasnt too bad......

It's your fault ......... as you should have left enough space between your car and the car in front of you ........... I know ........ It's a bummer ! ← ok say u have left the right space (so u can see the back tyres of the car) a car hits you at 60mph its well going to move you into the car in front ← if you were hit with a 60mph impact from behind, i think insurance would be the least of your worries. The damage doesn't look severe enough to write off a 19k motor though. ← Yeah I doubt the car behind was actually doing 60 at point of impact he would have had his foot on the anchors and I reckon it would have hit me at about 30 to 40. If it was 60 it would have set off the airbags and the whole rear end would have been crushed in. Not good.............

It's your fault ......... as you should have left enough space between your car and the car in front of you ........... I know ........ It's a bummer ! ← ok say u have left the right space (so u can see the back tyres of the car) a car hits you at 60mph its well going to move you into the car in front ← thats the situation Im in im going to argue that the car behind me pushed me into the car in front this means that I shouldnt be at fault but who knows what the other parties will say.......

2 years but looks like thats gone now

apparently its down to how damaged the trunk area is.........

I was speaking to a friend of mine who is a lawyer in accident stuff or something, and she tells me that you are responsible for hitting the car in front, due to insufficient braking distance or something, so the guy in front can claim off you, however the guy behind is responsible for hitting you. bummer. ← well the car hitting me from behind made me go into the car in front which is what I will be arguing

well the rear is worse than it looks - the trunk floor is quiteheavily damaged, the guy who brought me down on the flat bed truck said hed seen much less damage been written off but who knows? The spare is damaged and wedged in and the exhaust is bent and broken underneath also on the rear passenger side the rear door has been bent in and the rear wheel scrapes against the bodywork where its been crashed into Lexus Hatfield are picking it up in the morning so we will see........

thanks guys - yeah Im ok - a little in shock a few bruises but I'll survive

Oh well Ive just been brought back home by a recovery truck after my IS300 was hit up the backside by a jag smashing me straight into a Seat in front. Back is quite heavily smashed in and front has sustained some quite bad damage as well Its a 2003 03 IS300 with 23000 on the clock.....so now begins the insurance claim. How much do you all reckon Im going to get for it? Or should I say, how much should I insist its worth for insurance purposes? :tsktsk: :tsktsk: :tsktsk:

I cant get my head round having dunlop tyres on my car - the name dunlop in my mind is associated with dodgy trainers and old austin maxis rather than formula 1 and cool cars :winky:

thats not a bad philosophy I can see where youre coming from. the other thing I should have asked is what is the use of having a really fast tuned car if youre not that great a driver in the first place? Maybe spending some money on track days / performance driving courses would be a good place to start?? I was thinking about this in my case - would it be better to buy a day driving at a track than spending a load of wonga on new wheels..... just a thought :winky:

I hope you dont go to the cinema at Surrey Quays leisure park cos you would be well and truly f**ked mate :duh: Well I havent done any mods to my IS300 although I am thinking about a nice new set of alloys as the original equipment ones are a bit dull..... maybe some coloured calipers as well - any suggestions welcome. I did think a couple of weeks ago while er doing some spirited driving with a Subaru Impreza that I could use some more power though as the Scooby made mincemeat of me in the corners but of course theres no way an IS300 could hope to beat a prodrive scooby sti :winky:

Ive noticed a hell of a lot of modded cars on the road that seem to handle pretty badly. I was just wondering what was most important for people on here - the way the car looks or the way it drives? I think for me its the way it drives, although lucky for me I also think the IS is one of the best looking cars on the road as well.

i bet they wont be anywhere as good as the Goodyears nor will they look as good :winky:

Thats one of the things that drove me mad about the Pirellis. It took nothing to induce wheelspin. Also, they were much noisier than the Goodyears and the wet weather stability was not the best especially with surface water. Taking into consideration that the only reason we do not run our road cars with slicks (as these would give the best grip in the dry) is the tread pattern for wet weather. The Goodyear Eagle F1 won all the tests in this category - Autocar tested them on a Vauxhall Monaro and the difference in grip over the other brands in wet conditions was significant

Goodyear Eagle F1s they beat the ***** out of both the Dunlops and the Pirellis for wet weather handling and they look the business but I think they cost more than the tyres you mentioned

30,000 miles out of 1 set of tyres??? you must be driving very gently to make em last that long :winky:

cheers!

MAKE/MODEL: GOODYEAR EAGLE F1s SIZE: 18in (225/40R 18Z) MILEAGE: 3k THREAD LEFT: 6-7(approx) DRIVING STYLE: 40% Gentleman, 60% Loony OTHER NOTES: Bought from STS in Watford. Originally running at 33psi Geometry done new. Double checked after 3,000 miles, now running the tyres at 35psi as they were wearing on the edges quicker than in the centre.

Yeh! looking forward to that, i re-checked Eddie's IS300 today, if you remember he was the one you was talking to before i measured your car? scary thing is you have both come back for the "fine-tune" just seven days appart!!! ← Hi Tony! Thanks for doing a sterling job on the IS300. I love the Goodyear Eagle F1s - they drive much better than the old Pirellis which were original equipment! I can fully recommend a trip to STS in Watford for tyres and/ or alignment! 10 out of 10!