bluenose1940

Useful information, thank you c, very much appreciated. I'm buying a 32inch TV for the bedroom but blimey, what a pain that is, there are so many options it's untrue. It was much easier in 1950, 9 inch screen, black and white, magnifier up to 12 inches was an optional extra (which we had) and the fuzzy image was free😂 Thanks again.

That's interesting. I actually paid RS £29.95 for my 6 year warranty in October 2016. I still think that that was good value (at about 14p per week!) but, I'm just about to buy a TV for the bedroom and so will investigate the cost this time round to see if I can get it as a freebie!

Hello Ed, I had a real good bit of luck with this. Initially I couldn't find the paperwork from when I purchased the soundbase, I usually scan it all on to my computer but there was nothing there and so I checked my filing cabinet and guess what, I had purchased a 6 year warranty with it and so it is now in their hands for repair. They even lent me a soundbar whilst mine is being fixed. The warranty still has 2 1/2 years to run. I think the saying goes 'Happy Days' Thanks again for your help.

No not yet, I'll give it a whirl tomorrow.

Thanks for your input chaps. The 'expiry date' on the packaging is shown as 12 - 2024

When into town today and when I arrived at my destination I had an error message appear telling me that the key battery was low. Back at home I checked the battery with a multimeter and got a reading of 3.32. i took a new battery out of its wrapper and tested that and got a reading of 3.02. I have the multimeter set on 20v. On the basis that the battery is a 3v CR2032, both of these readings appear OK to me. Strange though that the one giving an error has a higher reading than the new one out of the packaging. Thoughts anyone?

No not really, I'm still 'trialling' 'erroring' at the moment. I can get it all ok on my pc and on Hik-Connect when I am using the Wi-Fi at home.

Hello Ed, thank you for coming in on this. The problem that I have is, that when I try to turn the unit on by using the remote or the button on the front, it will not stay on. I disconnected my unit from the mains and left it off overnight before reconnecting but that didn't work. However, I didn't do what you did i.e. depressing the power button whilst reconnecting. I will give this a go. Do you have a link to what you found on the internet? Thanks again.

Not getting any joy to my query from an AV Forum and so am wondering if anyone on here can help please. I have a Pioneer SBX-B70 Soundbase and, whilst watching TV last night I lost all sound completely. When I took a look at it this morning, I checked all of the connections to make sure that they were secure and, there are no problems there. However, I noticed that when I press the 'On' button on the remote or on the unit itself, the blue light on the front illuminates but it only stays on for less than 5 seconds, this happens everytime that I try it. Does anyone know if this is a known problem with this unit and, if it is, is it fixable by DIY methods please. I have previously replaced items in a Panasonic Recorder before now, and so if there is a fix I will be extremely grateful for any info. Many thanks.

Hi Steve, thanks for your help. I have snipped off what I think is the capacitor, i.e. the cylindrical thingy across the connectors in my post above. This is what is written on it...... HUNTS Cap 0-1uF 250v A.C Wkg M.P WA71 ITH The approximate size of the unit is 26mm long by 10mm dia. Is there any way that I can test this now that it is disconnected from the pedal?

I have been looking on the internet and have found a number of 'solutions' one of them being to simply remove the capacitor. A number of people have done this and it has been successful and everything is working fine. Any thoughts on this? What does the capacitor actually do? if it is safe to remove it, is it a simple case of snipping through the connections? Thank you for the links folks but neither of them seem to be remotely similar to what I have. EDIT: I have attached an image of the pedal, hopefully you can see it OK.

I am wondering if any of you clever chaps might know the answer to this one please. My wife has an old Singer sewing machine which kicks in immediately it is switched on at the wall socket. There is a foot pedal which controls the power and speed of the machine but this appears to not be working properly and is completely by-passed by the mains power. Does anyone know if the footpedal parts might be replaceable? Many thanks

I want one then! Time to start doing the lottery again🤑

No definitely not an LFA, it was a very large saloon.

Just been watching a programme about Monaco on BBC2, spotted an absolutely gorgeous Lexus, anyone else spot it and if so what model would it be? How the other half live eh! Bottle of plonk 13K euros, one night in the penthouse suite 35k euros!!!!

I have managed to get hold of a couple of power units which hopefully will solve my problem. The first one is showing as 12v 0.3A L.P.S. and the second reads 12v 1.0A Which should I use do you think? Many thanks. EDIT - 10.44am 10/06/20 All working fine again now chaps. I used the 12v 0.3A power unit. Thanks for all the help given. Very much appreciated as always.

Always the same isn't it, I only threw an old router out about 2 weeks ago! Ah well, I'll have a scout around to see what I can pick up. Many thanks indeed to all who have offered help/advice.

Hiya Steve, Thank you for your link. My speakers are the Bose Companion 2 series III (as opposed to the Series II shown in your link). The only difference between my original power plug and the one for sale in your link is that mine shows as 12v - 1800mA and the one in the link shows as 12v - 2000mA. Does that small difference matter?

Hopefully this image will be clear enough to see what it is. If not I will re-take the shot. Thank you.

Thank you John for your guidance on this. I have done the test and there is no reading at all. As I say, I have checked the fuse and that is all OK and so it must be the 'plug/transformer' I have a similar 'transformer' on another device and have noticed that these type of units get warm in operation and, the one I have tested is stone cold. I imagine that it is not a repairable item and so I will either have to source a replacement or it's bye bye speakers. Do you know if you can buy replacement units or even get some sort of alternative? Thanks again. Geoff

Hi folks, I have a set of Bose speakers attached to my computer and they appear to have stopped working. I have had them connected to my laptop and my Samsung Tablet and there is still no output. I have checked the fuse at the mains socket end and that is OK (it's a 1amp jobby) and I am now wondering if there is any way that I can check to see if the power is actually getting to the speakers. At the mains socket end there is the usual 'transformer' type box and the end that goes into the speaker is a jack plug that is about 3mm diameter. it's the same sort of plug that's on the end of Apple headphones. Can I check for electrical output by using a multimeter and if so can anyone tell me what bits to 'touch' with the black and red pins and what setting the meter should be on? Many thanks in advance of any help/guidance offered.

I wonder if any of you will know the answer to this please. I do a lot of walking and I am thinking of treating myself to a Garmin Fenix 5 Plus or a 5S Plus smart watch. I know that those models come with maps included but I am wondering how good the maps are. For instance, are they as detailed as the Garmin SatNav maps, i.e. that they give the road and street names. What I am thinking is, when I am in a city that I've not been to before, say for instance York or Harrowgate, can I navigate myself around the city and then use it to find my way back to the car. In the past when I have been away, I generally make a note of the location of the car park and then when it is time to leave, I end up asking people if I am going in the right direction for the car park where I left my car. I know that I could use Google Maps but I quite fancy a decent watch that gives me additional info, such as distance covered etc etc. Many thanks.

DanD said "It may be worth contacting your internet provider first: some will provide WiFi boosters for free. Virgin Media certainly do. I recently got some from them - at their suggestion - and they came by courier within two days" Thank you for your suggestion DanD, phoned Sky this morning, free booster should be with me by Wednesday. Brilliant! Thanks to all for your input.

Thanks chaps for your valued input. Herbs, when you mentioned TP-Link in your post, that immediately rang a bell with me. I shot up into the loft and found my box of bits (stuff that 'I might just need in the future') and I found two TL-PA4010 TP-Link units. These are donkeys years old and there is no manual or software with them and no cables either but, the slots just seem like phone connectors which I have a couple of in the garage. However, I'm a little confused in that I can recall plugging one unit into the mains socket next to the router, then connecting it to the router with the phone cable. I seem to remember that I then plugged the other unit into the mains socket next to my pc and then connected it to the pc with a phone cable and bobs your uncle. However, my problem now is, whilst I can make the correct connection at the router end, when I plug the other TP-Link unit in in the summerhouse, it too has a phone socket which I can't, don't want to be, plugging anything into it, I am just wanting to increase the wi-fi signal so that phones and tablets can be used whilst out there. This being the case, it would seem that your first link and that suggested by doog442 would be my best bet. Am I right in thinking that? Thanks again for your help.

I wonder if anyone can help me with this one please. Is there any way that I can improve the wi-fi at home so that when we are out in the garden in the summerhouse we can get a good signal. Many thanks.