north

audio will not effect LPG if it is installed properly. It all depends of the type of lpg tank you are going to use, if you get a donut shaped one it'll be in the spairwheel well. in that case you can install your sub on one of the sides of the boot... or you get a big cylinder type than you can install the sub in the spairwheel well with or without a false floor (with leaves room for an extra amp + looks better and stealthy)

Nope not on a sprint it is for when you want to overtake fast etc that is what the mode is for or when you have the car loaded and pulling a trailor.

are you use a chisel and a hammer... keep banging away until the lock starts turning.... changes are you'll ruin your wheel a bit but it will not be to bad ( had this on numerous occasions and it always worked)

check your fuses mate and check the passenger door on the inside for water. changes are the system simply has a shortcut due to water. PS when you hear the door locks go double means that it tries to lock the door and it didn't work properly so it'll open it again.

you could easily go for a aftermarket induction kit it'll make the supercharger work better and is less difficult to find ;)

I remember the last snow period we had i couldn't get the car up a 20% hill without curbing the wheels because the back kept sliding away.... turned the car around and reversed up the hill no problem :D but no i would not take the is200 to a ski resort without proper snow-chains on all for wheels and even then i would gladly leave it home! Nah I'm quite sure the hatch is made for martial -art equipment ( swords/sticks etc) especially since that is a normal thing in the orients ;)

I had the same thing... and found the problem When you are not going to use the car the next day turn of the lights! when you leave it on auto it will be using power for the light sensor which leads to the draining of the battery. Stupid thing is it is in the owners manual... they should have realised this at the dealer.

Nope it uses the parcel shelf speakers for sub... doesn't really matter as when you add a decent aftermarket unit it will have pre-outs and gives you the option of adding a sub in the back with it's own amp.... but best thing is getting the lot first then when you have it all make your decision. I've seen many is200's without sub simply because the standard system delivers more then enough grunt.... and if that doesn't tickle your fancy you can allways upgrade the standard speakers to better aftermarket ones (unless you are a bassjunky and want to offer up boot space for some proper bass you can hear at least 2 blocks away from the car) Check out the audio (boot) setups on the site you'll see that a lot is possible

That is exactly what it does it isn't a power button it is a sport button.... Because it will stay longer in any gear so the car revs longer in that gear it is in when you select that mode(somewhere down the line the Germans changed the power to sport because it makes more sense) So if you want your car to be faster there is one option left .... chip tuning my friend thor racing should be able to help you out but also TDi or Revolution... they will have to match the engine revs vs autogearbox vs max torque when you select the power mode... and this is where you'll want to go turbo because to really make a difference the engine needs to have some mode of forced induction) A friend of mine got this done to his audi A6 S-line 2.5 TDI and let me tell you when you select that mode the car will destroy almost anything in it's path ( it revs longer and spins up the turbo better + the fact that it is 4 wheel drive makes a lot of difference he went from 140 bhp and 150 torque to 225 bhp and 300 torque) Also he had to change his exhaust + downpipe and had to add a 200 cells sports catalysts just to make this all possible so be advised that power doesn't come cheap especially not when you have a petrol engine ;)

I am waiting for response from the designers at the company... I can't draw or edit pictures that well but will let them make the drawings if they quote a price.... changes are they are going to need my car for making the prototypes and molds for the body kit so be patient please as up to this point I don't know anything yet. But looking at other body kits they do it should be around 650 to 1000 for the full kit incl the OEM Porshe DRL lights (full kit = front bumper with Porshe DRL's/ Rear bumper with diffuser look/ Sideskirts = 1000 or mper full kit = front bumper with Porshe DRL's/ Rear Bumper apron diffuser look/ Sideskirts = 650 please note estimate made by me NOT THE COMPANY!!!) So be patient please as the price range is just a guess by looking at the body kits they normally do (and the retail price of the Porshe DRL lights and I don't know if they can get them for less so I made the enquiry to create the front bumper with and without the DRL's so we can get them from the Porshe dealer or other internet source) UPDATE: Just got a confirmation e-mail the design team is going to look into the design and fabrication cost I will hear from them somewhere around monday. I must say that they actually where quite enthusiastic about the design of the complete body kit so let's see what the price will be and when they can fit it in ( something about planning was mentioned on the phone)

It is a pass through: it converts the oem connectors to ISO standard.... you have to plug the white side into your OEM amp and than route the cable to the radio (over the glovebox) and plug in the ISO to your new head unit.... this way you don't have to cut your OEM cable and a reverse is as easy as unplugging this cable and putting the oem one back in. PS you'll need a facia too : follow this link this one comes with both sizes din or double din ;) so together it'll cost you about 30 quid ( not to bad me thinks for plug and play :D )

should look for a parts seller ( mind you they still ask about 30 to 40 quid for it) or go the GFK on it ;) does require some sanding etc.... or get someone to create a metal version of the OEM part

I have asked them to create a rear apron that incorporates a rear diffuser the likes of audi ;) or a complete rear bumper looking like this : PS I'm looking for the DRL's that are OEM Porshe because of the quality ;)

It is a photoshop of the Porshe bumper but when I saw it the only thing I heard in my mind was.... I want that and I want it now!!!! Oke did my research and already know that the place that could create it needs at least 5 orders of it otherwise they will not bother.... I'll start an enquiry with the company and will see what they'll say (price is the most important one here).... i'll keep you posted! PS the bumper will be a GFK copy made right here in the UK and from scratch to finish would take them about 5 weeks... also I'll have to find a source for the DRL to deliver cheap. just to keep the price down on the bumper because Porshe parts are never cheap.... I'm on it my (just sent the e-mail out) and wil ask them if they can create matching side skirts and rear apron so there will be a full bodykit available (let's be honest most bodykits can't see the light of day because the only good option is TRD oem, which is getting hard to source, and this would make a really nice edition for al those people that want something new but not to flashy)

yes there is a cable for it you just have to look a bit better and all se versions have an amp. the problem is that not all places have the right one... do a search on the site and you'll find the right cable (or look on e-bay ;) ) or just press this link

I found this picture on line and couldn't resist asking what you all think about it.... If I could buy it, it would be the first thing I would buy for the car as it incorporates DRL lights and a nice open front... and it updates the look of the IS200 straight into the 21st century The only change I would make to it is that the OEM fog lights would stay.... just vote as I am toying around with the idea of getting it made incl. the side skirts and rear apron thing is If there are about 5 people that want it, I know just the place to get it made for a good price.

Welcome mate nice IS you have there... I would go for the Toyota supra twin turbo MK4 engine swap instead of the Altezza swap... The reason being the engines potential and less problems with the rev counter since the Altezza is a 4 cylinder engine, And I know that in the Netherlands if you do a swap to a 4-cylinder engine you'll have to take it to the RDW for new papers and a test. Apart from that, bought swaps entail the same amount of work so get the best out of the supra ( + the fact that if you tune it properly you can get ridiculous BHP on the rear wheels) some have done that already but it is an expensive swap. do a search and you'll find that there are a few projects on here with the engine swap... you'll be looking at the following parts: - 2jz-gte engine with all auxiliaries and ECU and engine harness - the manual gearbox from the Supra (this needs some work to get the gearstick in the right place) - better fuel pump ( walbro does some nice ones) - get the front and rear brakes (calipers & disc) from the supra or dish out on a big brake conversion and a few parts you can get from the dealer on special order or get them from a breakersyard (sloperij in nederlands ;) from the Lexus GS300 like the oil sump,engine mounts ( as this car runs the NA engine version of the supra engine) Also you are going to need a specialist to link the 2 ECU's together as the IS ecu is multiplex meaning that it runs all the electrics in the car ( air-conditioning, immobilizer, etc) But if you've got that sorted people will drool over your IS200- which you have upgraded to the IS300 Twin Turbo ( only made by lexus to compete in the JDM DTM races ) Like I said it won't be cheap but you'll have less headaches doing this swap then the Altezza swap which needs an equal the amount of work Also there is an option to go LS V8 engine but knowing the test in the Netherlands you will not get a pass on the test since the IS wasn't made with the V8 engine

did they change al the sensors? usually they over look the fact that there are 3 sensors instead of one.... ps you'll know it as you'll be paying for 3 new sensors at 60 a pop so you'd be looking at a min. cost of 180 pounds. It can be the connectors of the sensors (corroded so need a clean up) also it could be one of the cat's not doing it's job properly.... in that case the cheapest solution is to use catalyst re-activator it needs to be poured down the cat's and while driving it cleans out the clogged up pores of the cat. if that doesn't help the cheapest solution: get an open exhaust collector this wil take care of the one in the original exhaust collector ( you'll still be able to put in the sensors ;) the bigger cat on the down pipe usually doesn't give any problems

Thanks for the answers... I had both the battery and the alternator checked over ...luckily I had an extra battery in the house on the charger it is on the car now and have driven yesterday and today with it... The battery is still holding a nice 13.2 volt when everything is disconnected so the one that was on the car is going back to the supplier... must have been a defective battery. Thanks for the replies!

Yeah just buy yourself a blank key of ebay and transfer the internals to the new key.... get the key cut at your local key maker and your problem is solved ;) there is a how to do for this on the website just use the search engine and you'll find it

Today of all days I had problems out of the blue.... Couldn't start the car after I went to pick someone up in town. Luckily I got my neighbour to bring my starter pack over, waited in the rain for about 20 minutes ( yes it was poring down and it was at lunch time so traffic in town was hell) put the starter pack on and the car started straight away.... check the ECU with my OBDII interface and torque but there where no faults. So I thought right let's go home..... never got there because the car died on me again..... I tried to start it once more and saw that the battery power was about 10 volts.... we all know that the car won't start with that amount of power left.. took out my starter pack again just to see that it zapped away more than 10 volts... leaving the starter pack with 5 volts of power left..... Then I noticed the lights of the seat heating the buggers where on i forgot to turn them of last night!!!! never knew that it used that much voltage.... because after this happened I called a friend to come and give me a boost with his starter pack or with my start cables ( Yes I had them with me but people in Ipswich are buggers they look at what is going on but can't be a(+r)s(-k)ed about to help not even the police, cause they stopped but had to go on an emergency job, but the thing that really surprised me was a fellow IS200 sport owner... he looked and just avoided to make eye contact..... I remember you and your car hope this will never happen to you because I'll be looking and pointing and laughing!!!!) When my friend showed up he gave me his starter pack and the car started up fine! So I kept my eye on the voltage meter all the time driving home and it was charging!!!! PS the battery is fine and keeps it's power and is on the charger ( it is only 4 months old so it should be okay after charging) So if you are like me and have your seat heating on do not forget to turn it off!!! It can leave you stranded when you least expect it...

Welcome yes the SE versions have the amp and without the amp bypass you'll notice that the aftermarket unit will be hell to install. PS the amp is located next to the glovebox compartment so get that out and you'll see it. no need to place pictures or anything as there are allot of how-to-do's on this topic just use the search on the forum ;)

Mod's this one can be closed now thank you!

Hello everyone i'm quite new to the IS200 scene and have the key problem... the valet key is the only key I got with the car ( bought a master-key on the scrappy and got the remote of it working then went ahead and got a new key of ebay got it cut of the valet key (strangly it opens all the locks on the car, yes boot and glove-box 2) tried to add the chip to start the car but no can do ( checked the security light and when i put the key in it takes a second before the light goes out so it must be a valet key) So went online i found some software called Toyota K+Can 2.0, it is able to read out the immobilizer, reset all keys, add a new key or read out the current keys that are in the system so you can see if you can add a new key or need to delete all but on key... Installed it and ran in to the following problem : it doesn't work with the ELM327 Bluetooth interface ( it doesn't seem to connect with the com-port it wants an USB to OBD cable) is there any one who has one of these cables so i can test the software out? ( I seemed to misplaced my USB to OBD cable) PS it also has all Lexus cars preprogrammed this is a screendump of the program: I'm based in Ipswich so if there is someone around with a working USB to OBD cable that wants to help me out that would be nice ;) you can reach me by PM ;)

I found this schematic for a 18 pin match up with the MK2 20 pin connector (only needed if you don't want to use an aftermarket system but have the old type connector and bought the top loader system) PS go to a scrappy and cut the 20 pin connector + enough cable out ;) they will charge you about a fiver for it.... On the MK2 20 pin connector: Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Brown Radio Ground Wire: Gray Radio Illumination Wire: Green Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: White/Blue Amplifier Output Wire Colors (at Amplifier): Left Front Tweeter Wire (+): Pink Left Front Tweeter Wire (-): Violet Right Front Tweeter Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Tweeter Wire (-): Blue Left Rear Mid Speaker Wire (+): Black Left Rear Mid Speaker Wire (-): White Right Rear Mid Speaker Wire (+): Red Right Rear Mid Speaker Wire (-): White Left Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (+): Black/white Left Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (-): Yellow/Red Right Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (+): Red/White Right Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (-): White/Blue Wire Colors at Speakers: Front Speakers Size: N/A Front Speakers Location: N/A Rear Speakers Size: N/A Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White the 2 missing wires on the 18 pin connector in the before mentioned wire codes are: Green wire :for the Satnav (described as a BEEP) Yellow wire : Mute (to be used for parrot or other sources)