matt-c

I know this is an old thread, but since I'm a windscreen fitter by trade, I thought I'd chime in Rain sensors (also called moisture sensors) don't actually detect moisture - they work on a combination of light and vibration. The light is diminished (refracted) when glass gets wet, and it uses that in conjunction with vibration (the irregular pattern of rain/water hitting a screen) to activate the wipers. As a windscreen fitter, we have to test rain sensors before and after changing a screen, and on some cars it's as simple as covering the sensor area (outside) with your hand (Rover/MG most susceptible to this), drumming your fingers on the sensor area (outside) (can get some Vauxhalls and VW's to activate this way), or most commonly, spraying the screen with a spray bottle (which we call carry full of glass cleaner anyway) - 99% will activate this way, although some cars only activate the wipers when the vehicle is moving (mainly Mercs) I don't ever remember seeing an IS200 (or 300) with a rain sensor, but Lexus do, as you guys already know, have rain sensors on many of their vehicles. I'll consult my screen book when I next have it to hand. I did a screen on an RX400H a couple days ago - they have a sensor box that attaches to a metal bracket on the screen, and between the plastic sensor box and the glass is a simple "gum strip" - just a clear rectangle of tacky gum like substance that sticks via friction. It's trapped between the sensor and the screen, and like all the other different types, shapes and consistencies of the other gels, it's purpose is to transmit the vibration from the glass to the sensor itself. In regard to the gel - some use a "wet" gel (later BMW's, many Renaults, Nissan's and some Mercs - all typically round sensors) where the gel is set, but tacky. Removing these sensors used to mean fitting a new one (you'd get a blank sensor, with no internal PCB, and replace only the outer case, the front part, which has the fresh gel on it, keeping the internals of the old sensor). Other types can be like the pic Ormi posted - which is a set gel, not tacky. The whole sensor, including the gel, comes away from the screen intact, and can be refitted to the new screen without replacing the sensor or the gel - a simple light dusting of glass cleaner (which evaporates) is enough to adhere the gel to the screen for contact. On Jags and pre 2004/5ish VW's, they had small round sensors, which have a gel pad between the sensor and the glass - the sensor pulls off the screen, the gel pad isn't saveable, but we get new pads to stick to the sensor and then to the new screen. Same with most Audi's, which have a similar design, but tear drop shaped. Other BMW's, like the E46 and E39's, Merc ML's, and a host of other cars have the sensor "window" stuck to the new screen - it's a plastic (most often blue, but some cars, like the ML, come with red, and some BMW's and mercs have chrome and blue) bracket fully glued to the glass with a rigid gel. The sensor simply clips on to it. A point worth noting for anyone messing around with their sensor - mainly applies to Mercs and Beemers, but worth applying to all sensors - if you remove it from the screen, do it with the ignition off and do not turn the ignition on until it has been refitted to the screen. Reason for this is some vehicles (again, mostly Mercs and Beemers) include the rain sensor in it's start up checks. If it's not attached to the glass, the ECU reads that as it's malfunctioning, so it disables it. A trip to the dealer is then needed to re-activate it. Likewise, never unplug the actual sensor if at all avoidable - this can result in "memory loss" where they ECU forgets what the sensor does, so again a trip to the dealer is required (the only one I ever unplug is the VW Beetle, because a) I know it will still work, provided the ignition is not turned on during replacement, and 2) the glass comes with a brand new sensor already fitted, so it's better to swap the plug over to the new sensor, than pull it off and use a new pad)

To be honest, even having worked on cars for over 8 years (windscreens) I didn't even know there was an IS300 - I only found it out while on the internet looking at 200's to buy. So it wouldn't be surprising if 90% of the people on the road that even know what an IS200 is, hadn't heard of, or know what, an IS300 is That said, debadged looks better in most cases anyway ;) I was thinking about it today, and I think I'll keep my 200 for the next couple years, maybe three, build up some more NCB, and hopefully the insurance will cost less, then I'll think about changing it for a 300 - if I can find a nice low mileage one with the front and rear TTE bumpers, and 18" Aero alloys - mmm....

From what I've read, it just reduces power (and calms the throttle response as sjr said). I've never had RWD before, and it's been a long long time since I had anything with 215 section tyres on, so I'm expecting it to be completely useless in the snow (next door neighbour has a Merc with 245 rear tyres, and he doesn't even bother getting in the car when it snows) Maybe I should have bought that Imprezza....

I also called mine Larry! I never used to name cars, but a friend of mine started me doing it; she used to name all her cars, and strangely they were all male names as well; she had a BMW 1 series she called Barry, a Fiesta called Freddie, an Escort Cosworth called Clive, an IS250 called Lawrence, another friend of ours had two Porsche's (911 and Boxster) which were called Percy and Patrick, she named my Escort Edgar, and my Rover Rupert. So I called the Lexus Larry (was going to called it Issy/Izzy, but was told I couldn't cos it was too much a girls name)

The tail pipe on the Sport is removable? How do you get it off? Mine is not looking good (almost like mild steel), but I didn't know you could get it off to clean/buff it!

Looks was one of the first things that drew me to thinking about getting an IS. I always liked the look of them when I was younger (I'm 30 now), and randomly began thinking about getting one a couple years back. I only just got round to getting one at the weekend, and I still think, even by todays standards, they look good - even "relevant". Granted, the current trend is slab sided with minimal lines (ie, no rubbing strips and minimal swage lines), like the Audi's and Beemer's, but the IS still doesn't, at least to me, look out of date. Kinda like a Pink Floyd record :D But if you wanna talk about cars looking ahead of their time back in the day, I still stand by the Ford Sierra and (mk2) Vauxhall Astra; This in 1982; And this in 1984; Both were MILES away from nearly everything else out at that time - which were all still square, angular cars. The curvy "bubble-esque" shapes of the Sierra and Astra was a massive departure, IMO

I'll put that on my list of things NOT to do!!!!

Ah, ok! Thanks! So if I just got two blanks (like these : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Lexus-LS-200-400-GS-300-400-430-RX-300-IS200-300-remote-key-fob-case-3-butts-/260961193484?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item3cc27fce0c#ht_946wt_1144 - obviously checking for the correct blade length) and swapped the insides and buttons over from the two broken keys (one of which is the master), then got the blades cut, I wouldn't need to do any coding or anything, right? It'd still be the same internals They even do the VW/Audi style flick keys, which might be nice (less space taken up in the pocket, and less chance of "bending" the key blade, which probably leads to cracking/breaking the cases... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/flip-key-fob-for-lexus-Is-200-300-gs-300-400-430-ls-200-400-rx-lx-upgrade-case-/260980355629?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item3cc3a4322d#ht_1108wt_1144

Thanks for the welcome I'd done a bit of googling regarding the keys (including some threads on here) and saw they are pretty expensive! Seems the general consensus is to get a blank key and casing off ebay, transfer the electrical gubbins inside my broken keys, and then get a (decent) locksmith/key cutter to cut the blank - which is certainly cheaper than £400 for two keys!!! Strangely, the grey valet key works fine in the ignition, but doesn't fit the boot and door locks. None of the locks (boot, doors, ignition) have been changed, and the other two (black) keys fit all fine - just the grey one won't slide into the door or boot lock! Odd?

Hi, just entered the realm of IS ownership, having bought my first Lexus today - a 52 plate IS200 Sport A (possibly) interesting thing came with it - a ridiculously heavy key-fob, that turns out to be a railroad-style pocket watch Just wondered if these were common, rare, worth anything to a collector, etc? Not saying I'm going to sell it, cos it seems like a cool little item, just curious is all Anyway, the IS I came home with today; Just need to sort out some new keys for it. It came with three (2x black three-button, and a single grey two-button; the master key?) and the two black ones have cracked and broken casings. One has completely separated (is just a "fob" and a key blade now) and the other is beginning to crack, and probably won't be long before it splits apart. But other than that, it all seems good to me!