james250

What exact problem do you have? Is everything working fine except just the touch responses? I had same issue about 6 years ago and this problem is related to the contacts within the ribbon cable of the digitizer which after many years of temperature variations end up cracking and hence the connection is broken. Lexus don't offer a repair but only want to replace things. I ended up getting a replacement digitizer from China or Hong Kong can't remember exactly where for $16 and replaced it and it is still working 6 years on

My battery on my is250 needs replacing. There are quite a few options at ECP. Can anyone please tell me the correct orientation and layout one I need from ECP? Thanks

Ive recently change my D4S bulb with new genuine Philips bulbs. All seems good but when I was installing it the projector itself ends up literally moving left and right as I was mounting the bulb. It still seems to have good resistance so feels like it's connected to something. but I did end up moving it a little left and right so I tried to recenter it as far as I can remember how much it moved. The question is, part of the auto self levelling does it realign horizontal position?

Does anyone know if it's possible to change the lower steering linkage ball joint dust covers on a 2012 RX450h? mine are worn. I'm assuming even if it's possible the linkage has to be disconnected in order to get the new covers inserted right? which will also mean wheel alignment needed too.

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My headlights haven't yellowed yet but i do have some hazy patches here and there. I might give this a try. How often do you need to re-seal the headlights? I like the idea of the headlight clear coat by E-TECH seems like a more long term protection.

ECP brake disc specs for front say new 28mm and minimum thickness is 26mm. But the Lexus tech doc says minimum is 25mm

It seems the the thickness of brake discs from new to to minimum value has only a tollerance of 2mm. So whatever the thickness of the brake disc is brand new, the minimum thickness before it needs changing is 2mm minus that. So in case of the IS250 the front discs are 28mm new and minimum thickness is 26mm. Other cars also seem to have the same 2mm wear threshold. Is this correct? Is 2mm the maximum a brake disc can wear out? Also, how can you visually tell when brake pads are nearing the end? I've attached a photo below of a brand new brake pad and illustrated on one with a red mark, when that groove slot runs out is that the end of the brake pad life?

My foot parking brake seems to need a further travel distance to properly engage. I see there is a way to adjust the brake from near the peddle itself using a socket. But there is also a way to adjust the brakes by removing the rear wheels and adjusting the parking brake cog. But my question is which adjustment actually effects the brake peddle travel distance?

Can you explain what exactly isn't working about it?

So it seems inevitable that at some point all headlight lenses seem to start turning yellow. I've seen some really nasty ones on some IS250's and 220's. mine are still in good shape but considering replacing them isn't cheap, is there not a preventative solution to prevent them from yellowing? Like a protection film or something that doesn't effect it's light output. Or perhaps some sealants like you get for bodywork?

Is there anything you need to do to the new rubber on the blades?

Perfect thanks. that looks clean and fits nicely like OEM. my current Michelin ones are ugly lol. Are these the Denso Hybrid Blades that are advertised on ECP?

Any chance you can show me a close up pic of it where the arm connects to the blade? I think in the OEM ones the fitting is hidden

Thanks. Which brand did you go with? Previously I put some Michelin ones on but I just don't like how from inside the car you can see the metal frame. It doesn't look as nice and hidden as the OEM ones do.

Does anyone know the correct wiper blade sizes for a 2007 is250? I'm looking on eurocarparts and different brands have different size options which is confusing. But I'm looking at the denso ones and for the left it gives me 20" option only and for the right it gives me option of 22 or 24". Which is the correct one?

A worn wheel bearing will it be the case that you cannot hear the noise from outside the car?

That's such a lovely offer. I actually moved a while back and forgotten to update my profile. Need to do that now. Other than the wobble test, is there any other tests I can check to see if it's the bearings? My local dealership is quite far out. I have some good local garages but wondering is there anything special about hybrid system wheel bearings? Can a normal garage be able to check this?

I was suspecting wheel bearing too, but I jacked up each side and tried to wobble the wheels and there was no movement that I can feel. What's involved in replacing wheel bearings and how can I check if it's wheel bearings for sure?

I have a 2013 CT200h Advanced on Yokohama 17" tyres. I've had the car for about 18 months. Recently after a long trip I started noticing a rumbling sound couple of weeks ago. The noise is getting progressively louder as the weeks have gone. It's a noise impossible to record. If I open the windows I can't hear it but with windows closed I hear it. The best description I can give is it sounds almost like a train noise but a rubber version of it. It gets louder with speed and doesn't matter if im accelerating or not. Even just rolling at speeding I can hear it. I also tried having someone drive it past me at a speed that they can hear it from inside and I tried to listen from outside and couldn't hear it from outside. Any ideas what this can be? I'm thinking it really sounds like a flat tyre kind of noise but tyre pressures are all fine. I have Yokohama 17" and there is probably just under 4mm tread left on them. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

So the error after a while now is showing as pending. Two things I've noticed, firstly when starting the car the exhuast does have a ever so slight louder growling sound. It sounds as if it's coming from under the front seating area. So probably a hole in the exhaust somewhere there? Also after running the car when I stand near that area it smells like fuel, does an exhaust leak create petrol smells?

I do not trust Kwik fit either to be honest but seeing as they offer free inspection, I was hoping if there is any holes they can identify it for me. Otherwise I guess I can go under the car and have a good loook. In terms of the rusty exhaust is there no way to clean it up and maybe paint it with high temperature black paint? The EML hasnt come back yet, I will keep an eye on it. One thing I've noticed recently is that when starting up in the cold after car has been sitting overnight. It starts at a certain rev and then the rev drops and then surges back up. So almost creating a slight shiver. This happens and then the rev becomes stable this all happens for the first under 1min and then it becomes normal. Will a leak in the exhaust cause this?

So I just had the MOT and it passed. They didn't flag any issues. The light has been off since i first reset it in Saturday. I've been checking to see if it's pending but nothing is pending on the system still. I checked it just before giving car in for mot and there was nothing pending still. Will keep an eye on it and see if it comes back as pending. I'm thinking to get the entire exhaust checked at Kwik fit they seem to offer a free exhaust inspection and report. The exhaust just looks really rusty but other than that I don't see any spot or any marks. I don't know if it's just me but I felt like I needed to rev harder to get the rev up as apposed to a gentle tap on the throttle

Been out for a drive. As it was raining and dark I didnt want to risk getting water and dirt into the fuel tank. so i just cleaned the area and checked to make sure cap is tightened. I had a quick look at the exhaust from underneath at the back and couldnt see any soot or marks but need to check the entire exhaust in the daytime. Before I started the car, I scanned it to read the pending codes since I cleared it before driving home yesterday. There was 0 pending codes, so I started up the car warmed it for few minutes and then drove for about half an hour until engine reached its temperature. Came back home turned the car off and plugged in the scanner and it still reads 0 pending codes. Not sure how long it will stay like this I hope it doesn't throw up the error at the MOT test.