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Hi Adam, it is possible to create clutch judder on newly fitted clutch if the cover wasn't installed correctly and the cover fingers are now distorted causing the release bearing to rise and fall under rotation which you would feel through the pedal and the drive take up would not be progressive causing judder.did you fit the clutch yourself?

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May be check for good fuel flow? You may have corrosion inside the fuel tank and the fuel supply pipe is getting blocked inside the tank

Hi guys, This one is up for sale near me , I pass it on my way to work, it's up for 29k - 61plate with 27k mls 1 lovely looking car sitting amongst her German and Italian rivals looking all calm with her hidden gem under the bonnet! It can be viewed on the web - Quirks car company - wickford Hope it helps with your s/h evaluations

Hello, When you say damaged do You mean the sensor cable is rubbed through or that that cable has been caught and pulled if so the sensor gap may be incorrect? I'm not sure off hand how the cable is secured ( Someone else may be able to confirm) if I get a chance in the morning I'll see if I can see on mine - is it front or rear ? Most abs sensors don't repair to well , also most people check with a digital multi meter this is ok for open circuit and ohm readings but to check operation this has to be done with old school analogue meter.

nice one Adil, welcome to the f sport club !

Ok so mine this morning kicked in at 1600 rpm this morning a little lower than normal but found the same margins as the above 2 - I just find it little excessive, I would expect a fast idle of 1200 even on the coldest day. I sort of cringe when I cold start as I know that most engine damage (even though very minor) is done from cold start due to oil drain over night or longer from splash Fed components. I know there are oil gallery return valves usually fitted in the oil filter housing to prevent total oil drain but you can't protect everything. My Car is in for fuel pipe recall tomorrow I might try and Grab a lexus technician and ask if the fast idle parameter in the engine ecu can be modified locally at dealer level, although I fear it might be a vehicle file 're write which would require it being carried out at manufacture level which would be the same as the vehicle manufacturer as I work for - this is a pain as you have to extract the vehicle file for that specific chassis 're write and up load to central systems ready for the dealer to upload . Manufactures want chapter and verse why the vehicle would need this , and usually things like this are done for a very specific reason- oh well.I can try

Hi all, Could some of you please advise what your cars fast idle speed is on first start up when left over night and is it instant or delayed as I would like to reference against mine I would guess that diesels may be different? Thanks

it sounds as though you will need to check the electrics from the door lock using a test light and check the courtesy output , at least this should be fairly easy as the fault happens when the door is open and you will just have to wait and see when the signal is sent Obviously if the signal is sent straight away and the courtesy light doesn't work then the fault looks like it's further down line and not localised at the lock.

By the way you are describing the material of your dust caps I would say that you have had low pressure loss caps fitted at some stage? These are a a big upgrade to the cheap and nasty plastic ones fitted by car manufacturers which allow leakage from the Schrader valve ,unfortunately for them to work correctly they have to fitted over finger tight - but they do work in preventing air loss. Paul

Hello Karl and welcome to the forum I'm not familiar with your car but most door courtesy switches are just a switched earth, and are controlled via a separate switch separate from the lock mechanism, is yours integrated of do you mean you stripped the courtesy switch? The transmitter may well be not working as the door control system is not picking up where the drivers door is (open or closed) Paul

So for battery jump pack connections its Earth cable on first - disconnect LAST to the flat battery

it won't do the ecu any harm - the only risk of course is from an electrical spike ! So best keep the disconnects to a minimum Forgot to mention - use the battery disconnection method if you ever connect a jump start pack or from another vehicle you tend to get more damage from these scenarios than anything else !

Hi guys, Thanks for the warm welcome

Ecu's send and receive data mainly via what's known as a canbus line this is different to normal vehicle wiring, it is identified by two wires twisted together (100 twists per meter) one of the twists is refered to as can high the other is can low - the twists are to prevent interference from other electrical sources which can effect the data communication between the vehicles various ecu's All ecu's are programmed with a priority number in accordance with there respective importance - say a braking ecumenical will be a 1 where as climate control will be high a higher number. They are given numbers to enable the driver to be able to control what he wants when he wants ie if you are driving and a passenger changes the temperature in the car and the driver presses the brake then the temperature request will be shunted down the data (canbus) line. Of course you will never know due to the incredible speed of all the data flowing around the car, I won't go into the the transfere rates in case I'm over complicating things !- which I might already have ! So what does all of the above flanel mean - by disconnecting the ecu you are resetting the data logs much the same as if you switch off your phone and remove and replace the battery or run a defrag on your home computer All the ecu's will communicate easier and quicker thus being more responsive to the inputs from the driver Hope this sort of helps? And explains a little the basics of ecu communications paul

Hi Noo bie The first part to always get right is the battery connection/ disconnecting phase, Always always disconnect the negative(earth)lead first and then the positive and when reconnecting ensure the negative goes on last so earth of first earth on last. This will ensure the best possible protection for the delicate circuitry inside the ecu's. Also if any members ever have to have the unfortunate issue of a car needing any welding ,then once the battery has been disconnected (as above) then the positive and negative leads need to be bolted together and the welder should always connect his equipment as close to the repair area as possible. Connecting the leads together effectively makes the complete car wiring system many miles long and will help the dispers the large electrical current generated thus again protecting the very expensive ecu's

Hi Everyone, Purchased my 1st lexus a couple of months ago and have been following the forum since then Picked up some really good hints and tips from you all - ie car booked in for fuel sensor/pipe recall which I found about from posts - fantastic! Any how I have a few questions which I'll raise a few topics ! In the mean time a glance at the beauty Paul