OldTrout

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About OldTrout

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    John
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    GS450h SE-L
  • Year of Lexus
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Oxfordshire

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  1. DIY bulb replacement is straightforward and much easier if you have small hands. I don't but I did my first replacement with no problem using £8 bulbs. Three years on I replaced one of these with a £55 Osram Nightbreaker Xenarc to see if it was better. (The £8 bulb was OK.) I cannot tell the difference. John
  2. Nothing, but somebody else scraped the rear bumper. Presumably all four corner having been scraped we now have to have the flatter bits damaged. Always happens when parked and we take trouble not to park where we might get scraped. John
  3. There was a research paper published some years ago which people who are interested in this subject might find illuminating. It is called "Dust to dust. The energy cost of new vehicles from concept to disposal." The research on which it is based began in 2001. The paper was published about 2006. I have put it here https://www.dropbox.com/s/lydlvbh1bh661yz/DUST.pdf?dl=0 for those who would like to see it. I should warn you it runs to 458 sides. As as taster here are a couple of paragraphs from page 10: "For example, the Honda Accord Hybrid has an Energy Cost per Mile of $3.29 while the conventional Honda Accord is $2.18. Put simply, over the "Dust to Dust" lifetime of the Hybrid, it will require about 50 percent more energy than the non-hybrid version. "One of the reasons hybrids cost more than non-hybrids is the manufacture, replacement and disposal of such items as batteries, electric motors (in addition to the conventional engine), lighter weight materials and complexity of the power package." Figures may have changed since 2006 John
  4. Jeff If you fit this warning buzzer please post a report. There are quite a few us with the same problem. John
  5. Guys, Thank you for the generous and helpful offers and suggestions. I am very touched. On Friday I went to my MOT garage to ask if they would fit bits if I supplied them. (The Britprius list!) They put the car on the ramp to have a look and said it would be OK for at least another year. They also noticed some other small repairs that were made before I bought it. The garage don't want to get involved in exhaust repairs. They also did not know of anybody who might do an exhaust so Tony Banks is still favourite. I think the Banks website has changed as I'm sure I had seen prices for a Mk3 GS450h like £350 or for bigger system £450. I can't find any prices now. I will investigate 304 Stainless Exhaust Parts in Worcester as they not only supply bit but also fit them. In the meantime as my problems are most likely between the resonator box and its flange I'm tempted add a couple of little braces from pipe to box and then cover it with Fibrefix heat wrap (https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=fiberfix). Perhaps if there is some wrap some left over, I will also reinforce the Y piece. Got to be worth £10 and my time? John
  6. Robert, Thanks. Basingstoke is not far. Did you mean you had yours done at Cardiff? (Long way from Norfolk. When I am staying in Wales Cardiff Longlife is not far and it get much better review than Basingstoke or even Swansea. John
  7. I need to replace some of my exhaust before it fails. I think the problem is just upstream of the Y piece but at 12 years and 130+k miles the Y piece and back boxes should be replaced too. I know Tony Banks in Leeds is highly thought of on these forums but it would mean an overnight trip from Oxford. Is there anyone in my part of the country who would be able to do the job? John
  8. Andy, Waiting facilities not great. I take dog for walk as it is on the edge of the countryside on north side of Kidlington. Look up Summertown Garage, oxford on google. I now follow the Britprius plan: MOT and minor service every year. This is because main differences between main and minor services are visual checks which is done for MOT. This year just under £200, last year just over! There are some infrequent items which Britprius will tell you about. E.g. plugs at 60,000 if the car is running OK are unnecessary. Good plugs can easily do 100,000. I check the brakes are not sticking before MOT and have done disks and pads once. My advisories this year were slight exhaust leak which I shall have to do as the system is original and 132k miles, small cut on tyre which I can’t find and a deteriorating number plate fitted by Lexus at last Lexus service two years ago! The garage is fully qualified for hybrids. They are a lovely bunch. My only connection is as happy customer - 52 consecutive MOTs. John
  9. Andy, A bit far perhaps but Summertown Garage on the north side of Kidlington do an excellent job on mine. Few miles off M40 J9. Pm me for more details. John
  10. Neil, At year ago at service, my garage flagged B1421 (passenger side) and B1424 (driver side) solar sensor error codes with A/C. Britprius kindly advised: "The AC faults that have appeared are not really faults. These show up if the windscreen is in the shade or indoors with little light shining on the sensors. If they did a check outside with the sun on the screen the codes will disappear. "The light sensors are there to show how much UV light "heat" is falling on the screen one for each independent circuit inside the car. This information is then used to control the AC compressor drive motor for maximum efficiency." Hope this helps you too. John
  11. I thought I had read on here that warped discs were unusual. Is the disc sitting true on the hub? And/or as Robert said look at other possible causes especially as you are not a heavy breaker. Are pads moving freely in the calipers? John
  12. Paul, Your post reads as if there is no banging in normal mode. Is this the case? As Lee says, in sport mode a motor twists a shaft which runs down the middle of the main damper shaft. This shaft alters the damping. In sport mode the damping is heavier. John
  13. Vlad, Before getting into big money, I would suggest getting some Proslip greases for £10.95 and then clean out the old grease and reassemble with pin pad and clip. It might be worth checking the disks have very little or no run-out (rotating without wobble). If they have, take them off clean the mating faces thoroughly and put back. If still some run-out remove and move round one stud and try again. Why do you think it is the rear brakes and not the fronts? John